Kayfun Lite w/ Air Flow Control by Tobeco

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donnah

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The cotton (or whatever you use) has to be right down there at the juice inlets to soak up the juice as it's drawn up into the chamber..if there's nothing there to sop it up, it'll just go back down into the tank and the coil won't get fed.

For the first month I had my kfl, I thought that the wicks had to be kept away from the inlets to keep from blocking them, but my coil kept getting dry.. the only way I could fed it was to take dry pulls. Once I realized that this was the exact opposite of what needed to be done.. all was good. I don't worry about blocking the inlets.. I don't pack the cotton down in the well.. but I make sure it's placed down there.
 
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Huntsmanlance

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Ok i am throwing in the towel on these...raising the white flag...and running away! I just cant get them to work for me! I got the Hercules from the classifieds in yesterday and have three builds on it just messing around with different wraps and wicks and every one of these worked fine from the get go! I guess some things just arent meant to be...LOL
 

JD1

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Ok i am throwing in the towel on these...raising the white flag...and running away! I just cant get them to work for me! I got the Hercules from the classifieds in yesterday and have three builds on it just messing around with different wraps and wicks and every one of these worked fine from the get go! I guess some things just arent meant to be...LOL

Congrats on the hercules. I don't have one but I've seen several good comments on them.

If you enjoy occasional dripping, set your funalike up with wick tails coiling up in the chimney. Don't use too much wick, you want it to hold about 20 drops starting and 6 to 8 drops in use. Keeps your juice fresh that way.

I'm probably a little weird, but I actually set my 804's up to prevent flooding rather than good wicking. I have to flip my forefinger up to cover the airhole and give it a dry pull every three or four vapes, but I'm always vaping from a fully saturated wick, just like the drippers and squonkers lol. :vapor:
 

ghostridr

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FYI: For people with this version. I was comparing the tobeco draw to the rocket and noticed it was a tighter, but the deck air holes were the same diameter, so I dismantled the tobeco center pin to verify my theory of it having a secondary air hole was correct. It had a horizontal hole that went thru the hollow stem which does in fact line up with the deck base air hole if the threads are lined up properly.

So after inserting a very tiny allen key thru the deck base air hole and screwing back the center pin, I was able to align the two, thus resulting in a much improved draw which should help with any potential dry hits/wicking to airflow ratio issues along with less labored draws.

I hope this helps anyone with any tight draw or less vapor issues they might be having.
 
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nelsonm64

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FYI: For people with this version. I was comparing the tobeco draw to the rocket and noticed it was a tighter, but the deck air holes were the same diameter, so I dismantled the tobeco center pin to verify my theory of it having a secondary air hole was correct. It had a horizontal hole that went thru the hollow stem which does in fact line up with the deck base air hole if the threads are lined up properly.

So after inserting a very tiny allen key thru the deck base air hole and screwing back the center pin, I was able to align the two, thus resulting in a much improved draw which should help with any potential dry hits/wicking to airflow ratio issues along with less labored draws.

I hope this helps anyone with any tight draw or less vapor issues they might be having.
that's good to know, thanks! I have 2 of the tobeco' coming.
 

JD1

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I was wondering if this was the Tobeco units as well.

I ordered several with thought of giving them out as presents..... Maybe...:D

Looks like they're from ehpro. I've seen some posts that said they were, and I went back and looked at the enlarged photo. The ehpro has a sharp edge at the top of the tank section, and the tobeco has a cambered edge like the original. It looks like the vb ones have the edge (ehpro) and the ft ones have the cambered edge (tobeco).

Judging from the reviews I've seen they'll make excellent presents. My address is ...... :vapor:
 
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mocha_jo1

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Well, mine came in the mail today. The finish on it looks nothing like the bead blasted version on vaporbreak. I didn't like the look it had from the media they used, so I took some green scotchbrite to it. I did drill the air hole out on it as well, due to the draw being tighter than my Russian 91%. Much better now. The rest of the atomizer is pretty decent. The threads are a little rough, but overall, the atomizer isn't bad for $22 dollars. Definitely doesn't have the quality of a Russian or KFL though.
 

JD1

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Well, my order from Vapor Break finally started moving. Placed the order on 12/03/2013, went to Order Shipment recorded status on 12/12/2013 and is now showing Order departed from sorting hub on 12/24/2013. Sent via Sweden Post.

Yea, some movement lol!!! Hopefully it won't be too long now that it finally on it's way. Mine is still in shipment recorded status on 12/12, so maybe it'll move in the next few days as well.
 

steel bender

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Eurgh, I'm having some issues and not sure what to do. I believe I have a "perfect" micro coil set up with cotton. 10 wraps 28g kanthal around 1/16 drill bit 1.1 ohms, test fired, pinched coil together, cotton pulled through smooth, no bunching, just enough wick to set down on the deck base with a little juice, primed the cotton, test fired, real nice vapor. Here's where the issues come up.

I haven't yet begun my fight against the whistle yet, that'll probably be a slow process for me, in between tanks. With the air flow screw removed, the draw was nice and airy, the way I like with no whistle, but I kept getting dry hits. I played around with the AF screw and found if I tighten up the draw, it seems like more pressure is being created and it wicks much better, no dry hits that way yet, but now its whistling.

I still prefer my aga t2, but after a couple days fiddling, I'm starting to see what all the fuss is about. This clone will definitely be my out and about tank, I just wish I could get it to wick well, with an airy draw and no whistling all at the same time. Any ideas on what I need to do, or where to start?
 

steel bender

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Steel, do a search for "whistle" on this thread. Lots of feed back here. Haven't started building mine yet but watching this intently.

Merry Christmas! Good luck.

:)

Well, I read through the whole thread already, but will have to go back again, figure out what to try first, though earlier, I had my 510 pin out for a thorough cleaning (my whole tank was filthy, little black o ring bits and metal shavings throughout) and I tried drawing air through turning the pin a little more each time, until it was screwed all the way in and I didn't hear any differences at all.

One thing I was wondering about is if anyone has tried putting a chamfer or counter sink around the air hole yet?
 

MacTechVpr

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One thing I was wondering about is if anyone has tried putting a chamfer or counter sink around the air hole yet?

I'm pretty adept with a Dremel as a gunsmith on finishes and tolerances but I've been reticent to start machining these devices. Hopefully someone will kick in on your question. Concerned about the airflow as one of the main reasons I got this. Fingers crossed.

Merry Christmas. Good luck.

:)
 

JD1

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.......... With the air flow screw removed, the draw was nice and airy, the way I like with no whistle, but I kept getting dry hits. I played around with the AF screw and found if I tighten up the draw, it seems like more pressure is being created and it wicks much better, no dry hits that way yet, but now its whistling. .............

More pressure does increase wicking as you've verified, but I think you should be able to remove the screw and still get good wicking. The reason I say that is because of posts where some have drilled the air hole out to 1/16th and also reports from the kf 3.1 which reportedly has a larger air hole than these clones. I'd suggest playing around with some different arrangements, leaving the grub screw out, and if the experiment isn't wicking that well, cover the airhole and give a dry pull to get through the tank and try a different arrangement.

A lot of the videos I see pull the wick up, screw on the first chimney section, trim the wick at the top of that section, then tuck it back down against the shelf above the channels. I've also seen some that trim the wick shorter and paste it down on the shelf with a little liquid, which seems to be the way you're doing it now. Another thing to try with that arrangement might be a helper wick beside the main and stopping at the edge of the coil.

One tip that I see popping up every once in a while is to not fill completely full, but leave space at the top when refilling. I'm not sure how big that space needs to be but I'd start big and go from there.

There's a couple of different builds on this page that may give you some ideas. Also don't forget to experiment with the vertical coil build as well. Good luck and keep us posted. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...working-wick-coil-setup-275.html#post11645298
 
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