Kayfun Lite w/ Air Flow Control by Tobeco

[steel bender]

Well, I gave myself a scare today. Took a little risk, bringing a new tank to work with me, without a back up, because it was running fairly well. Then this morning, I filled up the tank and turned the "grub" screw (<---I like that ) 1/4 turn more open, and as soon as I got to work, instant dry hits, oh crap, cause I left the mini allen wrench at home...

But I figured out, it doesn't wick very well with an almost completely full tank. Also, if left alone for a couple hours, it needs a little priming to get it started. I didn't have very good luck with taking a dry pull with air hole covered, pulled too hard I guess and made a mess. What did work great though was taking some dry pulls with the air hole uncovered and watching for bubbles.

This tank's working REALLY well for me now, just need to wait for an empty tank so I can take it apart again and see what I can do about the whistle.

 

[steel bender]

The struggle continues, tonight I took out the 510 pin and sanded the outside and inside edge of the hole. It didn't feel very sharp before, but now, it's definitely nice and smooth. Well it didn't help, still have this annoying whistle. So I tried turning the pin so the hole was in different positions everywhere from perfectly lined up to straight across, still whistling every time. So I took out the grub screw and there's no whistle, because the air's coming in from where the screw was and not the air hole. I put a small piece of tape over the air hole which tightened up the draw just a tad, still no whistle, but without the tighter draw, I'm still getting constant dry hits.

Tomorrow, I'll probably try putting a little counter sink around the air hole and see what happens, though it would've been nice to hear if someone else has had any success with this. I think has a chance of helping, after I drilled out my aga t2 top cap to 1/16 I had a slight whistle, until I took an 1/8 inch bit to the outside of the hole. Now, it's almost totally silent. Only thing is, this air hole is quite long compared to a genny top cap. I'm having crazy ideas about drilling it out to 1/16 half way and tapering it out to maybe 1/8 or 3/16th, but there's probably no way I could make that pretty...

 

[JD1]

...................... I'm having crazy ideas about drilling it out to 1/16 half way and tapering it out to maybe 1/8 or 3/16th, but there's probably no way I could make that pretty...

Just to eliminate the end of the grub screw, I'd suggest taking it out and taping over the grub screw hole. I don't really think that'll work, but it's easy done and then you'll know for sure, and the next thing to tackle would be a camber at the air hole. I'd think that if it's going to work at all, then the least little camber there should work. Hopefully, just enough to get rid of the sharp edge just might do the trick.

Keep us posted and oh, by the way, it looks like you've got plenty of time to solve this before mine gets here. It's still stuck in singpost somewhere so I don't want you to feel rushed or anything.

 

[JD1]

...... I didn't have very good luck with taking a dry pull with air hole covered, pulled too hard I guess and made a mess. .............

I actually leave my wick tails a little long to provide more cotton above the channels to prevent flooding. This doesn't wick as smooth, which means I have to cover the air hole and do the dry pull thing every 3 or 4 vapes to keep the wick saturated. Never a dry hit that way though.

I understand that most would rather solve the issue though and have smooth wicking throughout.

 

[AR15Keith]

I got mine yesterday. I like airy draws anyway so I just took out the air adjustment screw and it doesn't whistle at all.

 

[AR15Keith]

Well, I gave myself a scare today. Took a little risk, bringing a new tank to work with me, without a back up, because it was running fairly well. Then this morning, I filled up the tank and turned the "grub" screw (<---I like that ) 1/4 turn more open, and as soon as I got to work, instant dry hits, oh crap, cause I left the mini allen wrench at home...

But I figured out, it doesn't wick very well with an almost completely full tank. Also, if left alone for a couple hours, it needs a little priming to get it started. I didn't have very good luck with taking a dry pull with air hole covered, pulled too hard I guess and made a mess. What did work great though was taking some dry pulls with the air hole uncovered and watching for bubbles.

This tank's working REALLY well for me now, just need to wait for an empty tank so I can take it apart again and see what I can do about the whistle.

I learned not to fill up all the way real quick. Made my coil yesterday and filled it up halfway, just to make sure it worked. Boy did it work. So after using it all day I filled it all the way up last night. NOT a good idea. Tasted like booty.

 

[steel bender]

Just to eliminate the end of the grub screw, I'd suggest taking it out and taping over the grub screw hole. I don't really think that'll work, but it's easy done and then you'll know for sure, and the next thing to tackle would be a camber at the air hole. I'd think that if it's going to work at all, then the least little camber there should work. Hopefully, just enough to get rid of the sharp edge just might do the trick.
Hey, it's a good idea though, for sure, one more variable to eliminate.

Keep us posted and oh, by the way, it looks like you've got plenty of time to solve this before mine gets here. It's still stuck in singpost somewhere so I don't want you to feel rushed or anything. [/QUOTE]
Well, I don't have any confidence I'll get it solved, but I'm gonna keep trying anyways...

I actually leave my wick tails a little long to provide more cotton above the channels to prevent flooding. This doesn't wick as smooth, which means I have to cover the air hole and do the dry pull thing every 3 or 4 vapes to keep the wick saturated. Never a dry hit that way though.
I understand that most would rather solve the issue though and have smooth wicking throughout.

Actually, I'm thinking I may need to nudge the cotton out toward the channels more after the bottom chimney's on, wondering if they're actually soaking up juice, or if juice is going back down after pulling sometimes and causing some of my dry hits

 

[steel bender]

I got mine yesterday. I like airy draws anyway so I just took out the air adjustment screw and it doesn't whistle at all.

---jealous---

 

[AR15Keith]

Just to eliminate the end of the grub screw, I'd suggest taking it out and taping over the grub screw hole. I don't really think that'll work, but it's easy done and then you'll know for sure, and the next thing to tackle would be a camber at the air hole. I'd think that if it's going to work at all, then the least little camber there should work. Hopefully, just enough to get rid of the sharp edge just might do the trick.
Hey, it's a good idea though, for sure, one more variable to eliminate.

Keep us posted and oh, by the way, it looks like you've got plenty of time to solve this before mine gets here. It's still stuck in singpost somewhere so I don't want you to feel rushed or anything.

Well, I don't have any confidence I'll get it solved, but I'm gonna keep trying anyways...

I actually leave my wick tails a little long to provide more cotton above the channels to prevent flooding. This doesn't wick as smooth, which means I have to cover the air hole and do the dry pull thing every 3 or 4 vapes to keep the wick saturated. Never a dry hit that way though.
I understand that most would rather solve the issue though and have smooth wicking throughout.

Actually, I'm thinking I may need to nudge the cotton out toward the channels more after the bottom chimney's on, wondering if they're actually soaking up juice, or if juice is going back down after pulling sometimes and causing some of my dry hits

I just filled up again. I'll try to post pics when the juice gets down. It was very similar to one of Riptrippers builds…not the chimney. I have had NO wicking problems with my cotton except when overfilling as stated above.

 

[steel bender]

SUCCESS!!! Well, mostly. The grub screw wasn't affecting anything, took it out, held my thumb over the hole and if anything, there was even more of a whistle. I took a 1/16th bit, thinking I would open up the air hole a tad, hopefully remove any possible burs, well the bit almost went right in, only slightly caught on something a couple times. So, apparently the air hole already was 1/16th and there must've been a bur or two. Next I took a 3/16th bit and put a small counter sink around the air hole. I made a new coil, added a couple wraps, now its 1.3 ohms. I made a slightly longer cotton wick, "glued" it to the side of the base, screwed on the bottom chimney and nudged the wick to the outside edge, over the channel and finally filled up the tank at a 45, stopping when I could only see a little air left through the clear tank.

Well it's still whistling with the grub screw wide open, but if I tighten up the draw, it almost totally goes away, enough that it's not bothering me (it's mostly just a loud air intake whooshing sound now) and so far it's wicking great!

 

[steel bender]

I forgot a couple things.

Thank you all for your help with the suggestions and support kept me working at this, almost with a fever!

Personally, it still doesn't hold a candle to my aga t2 set up with ss rope/mesh 1.2 ohms, but it definitely has its advantages. Like being able to carry it around in my pocket, or drop it in my lunch box to work, it's a crazy dirty environment, no way I can carry it around there...

 

[st0nedpenguin]

Are the only stateside options for picking up one of these things Ebay or paying ~$60 from a couple of US vendors?

 

[AR15Keith]

Heres my build. It's on my HCigar Kayfun 3.1 but it is IDENTICAL to the Tobeco.

 

[steel bender]

Are the only stateside options for picking up one of these things Ebay or paying ~$60 from a couple of US vendors?

I'm not really sure where else you can get them, but mine came from ebay for 40 bucks. Lol, it cost more than my svd did, but I was in no mood to wait around again on fasttech, still waiting for an order from them - placed on Nov. 19th.....

 

[JD1]

........... placed on Nov. 19th.....

I'd be getting in touch with them. My order, placed on December 14th, shows departed for usa. Of course, if it's waiting for reorder, then it might be worth waiting on.

I still like FT because they will take care of you, albeit slower than snot dripping off a door knob. Errr, I mean slower than a terrapin in a rabbit race. Sorry, I blame it all on the very old barton.

 

[DigitalVI]

Are the only stateside options for picking up one of these things Ebay or paying ~$60 from a couple of US vendors?

Paid 32.50 at a local B&M

 

[JD1]

Paid 32.50 at a local B&M

Not bad at all for 'walk out the door with it'. Which unit is it? My understanding (possibly wrong),

Tobeco: cambered top (like original), one piece center pin (like kayfun, but not like russian).
Ehpro: non cambered top, two piece center pin (screw into screw, like russian but not like kayfun).

Does it whistle?

 

[steel bender]

I'd be getting in touch with them. My order, placed on December 14th, shows departed for usa. Of course, if it's waiting for reorder, then it might be worth waiting on.

I still like FT because they will take care of you, albeit slower than snot dripping off a door knob. Errr, I mean slower than a terrapin in a rabbit race. Sorry, I blame it all on the very old barton.

Part of it was from waiting around for 11 days while it went through restocking, I opened up a ticket with them after a while and they just told me to stay away for a few days, like I could resist checking the tracking at least once a night. Anyways, a week ago now, on the 21st it changed to despatched to overseas, so I guess it must be on the slow boat over.....

 

[Strangebrew]

HCigar. No Whistle.

 

[JD1]

.............. so I guess it must be on the slow boat over.....

Check usps tracking for it now. It should show up once it catches a plane/boat/canoe to the usa.