King V2 Mech mod
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I still love the king v2, but I feel e.g. my copper smpl with 1:1 switch(big one-piece neg-contact) hits slightly better on 0.1 builds... . The lower copper-positive contact for battery-rattle, when screwed a good deal out, has not very good tolerances and is wobbly... This can both make it out of position when changing cells and I don't think it's very good for VD either(well it is, which is the issue, lol 
)...
Everything else is just so nicely put together, so it's a little shame, but what can you do... Btw, there where a slight diff on 0.12, but higher on 0.1... Not enough to ditch it though
(I even have some extra VD on the smpl, because stock spring is worse than the king and gets a little hot and I haven't found proper replacements yet...)
(I haven't tested my other smpls, SS with and without copper pin and with/without magnets yet, on this new low build, and usually use it on parallel mech boxes)
I really wanna soon get an inline-meter so I know for sure about these things with actual numbers instead of just going by "feeling"... I'm a big fan of factual-based information/comparissons and not subjectiveness, or how to put it, lol
Edit: Damn, my SS smpl with magnets and copper-pin are blowing away both the copper smpl and king v2... (with a 0.1 build) Maybe/probably(?) because of the stock spring in the copper smpl...
)...Everything else is just so nicely put together, so it's a little shame, but what can you do... Btw, there where a slight diff on 0.12, but higher on 0.1... Not enough to ditch it though
(I even have some extra VD on the smpl, because stock spring is worse than the king and gets a little hot and I haven't found proper replacements yet...)
(I haven't tested my other smpls, SS with and without copper pin and with/without magnets yet, on this new low build, and usually use it on parallel mech boxes)
I really wanna soon get an inline-meter so I know for sure about these things with actual numbers instead of just going by "feeling"... I'm a big fan of factual-based information/comparissons and not subjectiveness, or how to put it, lol
Edit: Damn, my SS smpl with magnets and copper-pin are blowing away both the copper smpl and king v2... (with a 0.1 build) Maybe/probably(?) because of the stock spring in the copper smpl...
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I still love the king v2, but I feel e.g. my copper smpl with 1:1 switch(big one-piece neg-contact) hits slightly better on 0.1 builds... . The lower copper-positive contact for battery-rattle, when screwed a good deal out, has not very good tolerances and is wobbly... This can both make it out of position when changing cells and I don't think it's very good for VD either(well it is, which is the issue, lol
I find the opposite.
My brass king hits more consistently that any of my SMPLs and seems to hot harder.
It should, it has much thicker walls and a more solid build.
The switch is rock solid and the contacts are solid copper.
Everything else is just so nicely put together, so it's a little shame, but what can you do... Btw, there where a slight diff on 0.12, but higher on 0.1... Not enough to ditch it though
(I even have some extra VD on the smpl, because stock spring is worse than the king and gets a little hot and I haven't found proper replacements yet...)
Maybe it's your spring. I replaced most of mine. Clones don't always come with the best springs.
The switch on the SMPL is another turn off. Press the wrong way and it doesn't fire.
This never happens with the king. Ever.
The C clip is another turn off.
(I haven't tested my other smpls, SS with and without copper pin and with/without magnets yet, on this new low build, and usually use it on parallel mech boxes)
I really wanna soon get an inline-meter so I know for sure about these things with actual numbers instead of just going by "feeling"... I'm a big fan of factual-based information/comparissons and not subjectiveness, or how to put it, lol
Edit: Damn, my SS smpl with magnets and copper-pin are blowing away both the copper smpl and king v2... (with a 0.1 build) Maybe/probably(?) because of the stock spring in the copper smpl...
Good idea.
I used to test all my mods.
That's what lead me to the king.
I'll dig mine out when I get home and show ya.
Thanks for your feed-back ninja, as always appreciated!
Oh, I believe you... What I meant was that i'm theorizing it's my "battery-rattle" pin's fault... When it's adjusted out appropriately to my 25Rs and said rda, then from the side it can be wiggled up and down... I always think its right at the border and about to fall off, but when checking, there's a good bit left... I saw one other in the FT sku reviews have the same issue... I've atleast been led to believe that there's most current-jump over threaded conections and especially with bad tolerances... The threads btw on the king are the nicest ever, but if you screw them in e.g. halfway and wiggle a little, then the tolerances could be better i'm thinking... I dunno... Maybe all good threads are supposed to do that... I personally also have an idea about vd diffs usually only really being felt in the super-sub ohm area(which i'm at just before that line), but again, maybe i'm wrong... However, with the numbers on your side, then I trust your mod of course! Btw, when I test without meter subjectivelly, then I quickly change rda and cell between mods...
I will add a meter after the cny to check mine... I would love a 23 to 25 mm copper or brass 18650 one-tube pinless-510 mod with smpl style batt-rattle/switch, but that's for now only a dream I believe... I'm interested in your able though and have to look it up some more I have 3 smpl's btw, and only 2 feels better than the king on 0.1 ohms(4-5 wrap 20g dual macros). Yeah that c-clip is a ..... but it is one-piece though, but I like my 2 screwed-in better for sure for maintenance, lol...
Oh, I believe you... What I meant was that i'm theorizing it's my "battery-rattle" pin's fault... When it's adjusted out appropriately to my 25Rs and said rda, then from the side it can be wiggled up and down... I always think its right at the border and about to fall off, but when checking, there's a good bit left... I saw one other in the FT sku reviews have the same issue... I've atleast been led to believe that there's most current-jump over threaded conections and especially with bad tolerances... The threads btw on the king are the nicest ever, but if you screw them in e.g. halfway and wiggle a little, then the tolerances could be better i'm thinking... I dunno... Maybe all good threads are supposed to do that...
I personally also have an idea about vd diffs usually only really being felt in the super-sub ohm area(which i'm at just before that line), but again, maybe i'm wrong... However, with the numbers on your side, then I trust your mod of course! Btw, when I test without meter subjectivelly, then I quickly change rda and cell between mods...I will add a meter after the cny to check mine... I would love a 23 to 25 mm copper or brass 18650 one-tube pinless-510 mod with smpl style batt-rattle/switch, but that's for now only a dream I believe... I'm interested in your able though and have to look it up some more
I have 3 smpl's btw, and only 2 feels better than the king on 0.1 ohms(4-5 wrap 20g dual macros). Yeah that c-clip is a ..... but it is one-piece though, but I like my 2 screwed-in better for sure for maintenance, lol...
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Been vaping my SS magnets/copper-pin smpl(my best smpl) for some hours now and man, I miss my king, lol! The button is much nicer and the smpl can fire damn hard vs sub-par provided wherever you get to hit the button... It needs to be a stable mid-press to be consistent... Also it feels like a toy compared, lol... Still, it hits a little better for me on my low build... (e.g. with same atty/cell one cooks slightly hotter/louder when firering without vaping)
1. Ninja, your knurled brass FT king(s) which you've tested to hit atleast as good as your smpl(s), could you please tell me if your battery-rattle pin is very stable or also a little loose like mine when adjusted out?
2. Now that I have you, could you please answer me if your raptor also has a plated(silver or nickel?) brass positive bridge/plate? I am waiting for my shenray t6 1:1 and everything looks like the original, except I cannot for the damn of me understand why everything internally is copper(except brass-button and spring), but not the pos-plate??? Of course I understand plating, but not why only doing it in one place and there... If to save money, then why not with the other places(the same with oxidation-prevention)... Of course it should still be good, and gets lightning reviews consistently, but i'm just baffled by the thinking behind... Yours is from 88 correct? (I seem to remember you once posted a 88 link to someone asking about getting one...)
3. Sorry, could you please also tell me what you think about a mod that gets hot-button without any spring/magnet and been cleaned too? Do you think one can then assume that the spring is not the issue and no matter which spring replaced will will not help? or it can not be seen that way? One of my smpl's is like that... Btw, all three gets hot button at times on very low builds, even the magnets one...
I bought several springs that don't fit and some 20g ss316l wire which is way to thick to make springs unless 1 or 2 wraps only, so now i'm on the hunt for copper wire to make springs off myself, but just wanted to hear if it was even worth the trouble for e.g. the one smpl I tested without spring/magnet and still hot... That little brass-pin(it's not a c-clip switch but two piece contact) can maybe not take 0.1 ohms i'm guessing? It's a lot of amps running through a small part... Else thread-tolerances(current-jump) as button is pretty wiggly when screwing in...
Edit: Added numbers for the 3 questions
The button is much nicer and the smpl can fire damn hard vs sub-par provided wherever you get to hit the button... It needs to be a stable mid-press to be consistent... Also it feels like a toy compared, lol... Still, it hits a little better for me on my low build... (e.g. with same atty/cell one cooks slightly hotter/louder when firering without vaping)1. Ninja, your knurled brass FT king(s) which you've tested to hit atleast as good as your smpl(s), could you please tell me if your battery-rattle pin is very stable or also a little loose like mine when adjusted out?
2. Now that I have you, could you please answer me if your raptor also has a plated(silver or nickel?) brass positive bridge/plate? I am waiting for my shenray t6 1:1 and everything looks like the original, except I cannot for the damn of me understand why everything internally is copper(except brass-button and spring), but not the pos-plate??? Of course I understand plating, but not why only doing it in one place and there... If to save money, then why not with the other places(the same with oxidation-prevention)... Of course it should still be good, and gets lightning reviews consistently, but i'm just baffled by the thinking behind... Yours is from 88 correct? (I seem to remember you once posted a 88 link to someone asking about getting one...)
3. Sorry, could you please also tell me what you think about a mod that gets hot-button without any spring/magnet and been cleaned too? Do you think one can then assume that the spring is not the issue and no matter which spring replaced will will not help? or it can not be seen that way? One of my smpl's is like that... Btw, all three gets hot button at times on very low builds, even the magnets one...
I bought several springs that don't fit and some 20g ss316l wire which is way to thick to make springs unless 1 or 2 wraps only, so now i'm on the hunt for copper wire to make springs off myself, but just wanted to hear if it was even worth the trouble for e.g. the one smpl I tested without spring/magnet and still hot... That little brass-pin(it's not a c-clip switch but two piece contact) can maybe not take 0.1 ohms i'm guessing? It's a lot of amps running through a small part... Else thread-tolerances(current-jump) as button is pretty wiggly when screwing in...
Edit: Added numbers for the 3 questions
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It's weird the issues you are describing with your SMPL buttons. I have two, both cheap clones, both from different suppliers, one with a c-clip one with a nut. They are both smooth as silk and can be pressed at any position. Strange.
Thanks for your feedback! Ok, that's odd then... All mine are also smooth after they've been cleaned thoroughly, and the c-clip I don't think is as much of an issue with this, due to the larger surface-area of the button, but the one with the screwed-in little pins are subject to this imho, atleast mine... The button lets you press in slightly off center, which means the pin only touches at a side mostly, or so i'm guessing the cullprit is...
I never have a misfire, never... However, I can judge that some hits are a little "harder-hitting" than others due to the press made...
Ok, that's odd then... All mine are also smooth after they've been cleaned thoroughly, and the c-clip I don't think is as much of an issue with this, due to the larger surface-area of the button, but the one with the screwed-in little pins are subject to this imho, atleast mine... The button lets you press in slightly off center, which means the pin only touches at a side mostly, or so i'm guessing the cullprit is...I never have a misfire, never... However, I can judge that some hits are a little "harder-hitting" than others due to the press made...
Been vaping my SS magnets/copper-pin smpl(my best smpl) for some hours now and man, I miss my king, lol!
1. Ninja, your knurled brass FT king(s) which you've tested to hit atleast as good as your smpl(s), could you please tell me if your battery-rattle pin is very stable or also a little loose like mine when adjusted out?
2. Now that I have you, could you please answer me if your raptor also has a plated(silver or nickel?) brass positive bridge/plate? I am waiting for my shenray t6 1:1 and everything looks like the original, except I cannot for the damn of me understand why everything internally is copper(except brass-button and spring), but not the pos-plate??? Of course I understand plating, but not why only doing it in one place and there... If to save money, then why not with the other places(the same with oxidation-prevention)... Of course it should still be good, and gets lightning reviews consistently, but i'm just baffled by the thinking behind... Yours is from 88 correct? (I seem to remember you once posted a 88 link to someone asking about getting one...)
3. Sorry, could you please also tell me what you think about a mod that gets hot-button without any spring/magnet and been cleaned too? Do you think one can then assume that the spring is not the issue and no matter which spring replaced will will not help? or it can not be seen that way? One of my smpl's is like that... Btw, all three gets hot button at times on very low builds, even the magnets one...
I bought several springs that don't fit and some 20g ss316l wire which is way to thick to make springs unless 1 or 2 wraps only, so now i'm on the hunt for copper wire to make springs off myself, but just wanted to hear if it was even worth the trouble for e.g. the one smpl I tested without spring/magnet and still hot... That little brass-pin(it's not a c-clip switch but two piece contact) can maybe not take 0.1 ohms i'm guessing? It's a lot of amps running through a small part... Else thread-tolerances(current-jump) as button is pretty wiggly when screwing in...
Edit: Added numbers for the 3 questions
1. I have several knurled kings and yes one has the somewhat loose centerpin, which I think is just fine copper threads getting mashed up when I tighten it down too hard.
It hasn't made a difference in performance as I really can't remember which one it is, and I use them all. It tightens when it's assembled.
2. I don't have a raptor
. It's been on my wish list for a while now and just haven't pulled the trigger yet.@DaveSignal started a thread here with a ton of info on both the authentic and clones.
MCV Raptor T6 - the new mech box from the guys who did the Cherry Bomber!
3. If it's a SMPL, check the switch assembly threads without a battery and see if they are loose.
Any play in those threads will cause the button to heat up.
Thanks again, mate! Ahh, great advice on the smpl! Doh! Thanks for the king feedback! Yeah I know when assembled everything is stable, but I suspect that it's just not a very good current leader without drop, but i'm glad to hear that you don't notice anything between all yours... Anyway, when I get my meter i'll update here for my king(and smpls)... Thanks for the raptor link! Sorry, I should have found/searched myself! Thanks!
Ahh, great advice on the smpl! Doh! Thanks for the king feedback! Yeah I know when assembled everything is stable, but I suspect that it's just not a very good current leader without drop, but i'm glad to hear that you don't notice anything between all yours... Anyway, when I get my meter i'll update here for my king(and smpls)... Thanks for the raptor link! Sorry, I should have found/searched myself! Thanks!
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Ninja, I apologies, mate! I usually always use same cell and atty when subjectively checking for difference during vaping(before getting my meter), but I'm pretty sure I have forgot at the time I posted about lesser hit from the king, since I now see that one of my cells have only 4.11 fresh from charger! So that would of course make a diff between that cell in the king against a good cell in the smpl...
Anyway, I just got my tobeco inline volt-meter, and of course it varies by push-type etc. but in average, on a 0.49 ohm load with an old abused 25r, I get 0.32v drop on the king and 0.3v on the smpl. I tested with another 25r abused cell and there both mods had a 0.3v drop. I only for now tested against one smpl, and that's the SS with magnets/copper-pin. On a 1.01 ohm load it was the same VD for both mods; 0.18v.
I've cleaned both mods before checking, but I had only ethanol 93% left to use and that has some thing added to it, so it cannot be drunken, and that adds something when drying, to the mod parts. I used a tooth-brush and q-tips to brush everything down with plenty of alchohol and then afterwards rinse it out with hot water and dry it, but I see when assembling everything together that there's some little left over things from the ethanol solution, but I didn't bother getting the last stuff perfect, because I had allready used two hours for just cleaning 4 of my mods with alchohol, and was numb in my fingers/hands... What i'm getting at is that maybe I can get better values for the VD tests, but don't know, as it's not that much "left-overs"...
On the tests showing 0.02v difference. It's not enough to feel it imho...
The pinless-510 and few threads of the smpl are matched by the king with thick brass, great threads and beefier cooper contacts...
Anyway, the king was a great recommendation and thank you again! It's more stable I can now also see evidence for on the meter, and I'm guessing it's because the sliding up/down part in the switch, where the spring sits around, is more narrow(lesser diameter), so the press is more centered, in comparison to the smpl, but just guessing here... I enjoy using the king more than the smpl, except the battery rattle thing though, but no biggie...
I can see from the back of the 510 pin, that there's a round ring from the battery-rattle-pin, where the copper comes off and gets grey(not oxidation/corrosien-colored). I was thinking, huh, is it copper plated SS, but then I remember reading a guy stating he believed his FT king v2 knurled brass contacts was SS with copper plating, but then another guy stated that it was brass, and that he should just keep sanding and eventually the brass would come through... He stated his king v2's from FT and 88 where all like that and wanted to try FC to see if it was different as they had told him that it was full copper when he inquired, but it's also much more expensive... I can also very slightly see the gold-colored nuance of the brass underneath the grey at a small place..
I don't mind as long as it performs like mine though And the loose battery-rattle pin doesn't influence performance like you stated...
Oh, just saw your post and review of the 'able' on FT... I'm jealous...
Edit: VD tests done with 5 presses and most consistent selected for value, both for cell voltage and voltage under load...
I usually always use same cell and atty when subjectively checking for difference during vaping(before getting my meter), but I'm pretty sure I have forgot at the time I posted about lesser hit from the king, since I now see that one of my cells have only 4.11 fresh from charger! So that would of course make a diff between that cell in the king against a good cell in the smpl...Anyway, I just got my tobeco inline volt-meter, and of course it varies by push-type etc. but in average, on a 0.49 ohm load with an old abused 25r, I get 0.32v drop on the king and 0.3v on the smpl. I tested with another 25r abused cell and there both mods had a 0.3v drop. I only for now tested against one smpl, and that's the SS with magnets/copper-pin. On a 1.01 ohm load it was the same VD for both mods; 0.18v.
I've cleaned both mods before checking, but I had only ethanol 93% left to use and that has some thing added to it, so it cannot be drunken, and that adds something when drying, to the mod parts. I used a tooth-brush and q-tips to brush everything down with plenty of alchohol and then afterwards rinse it out with hot water and dry it, but I see when assembling everything together that there's some little left over things from the ethanol solution, but I didn't bother getting the last stuff perfect, because I had allready used two hours for just cleaning 4 of my mods with alchohol, and was numb in my fingers/hands... What i'm getting at is that maybe I can get better values for the VD tests, but don't know, as it's not that much "left-overs"...
On the tests showing 0.02v difference. It's not enough to feel it imho...
The pinless-510 and few threads of the smpl are matched by the king with thick brass, great threads and beefier cooper contacts...
Anyway, the king was a great recommendation and thank you again! It's more stable I can now also see evidence for on the meter, and I'm guessing it's because the sliding up/down part in the switch, where the spring sits around, is more narrow(lesser diameter), so the press is more centered, in comparison to the smpl, but just guessing here... I enjoy using the king more than the smpl, except the battery rattle thing though, but no biggie...
I can see from the back of the 510 pin, that there's a round ring from the battery-rattle-pin, where the copper comes off and gets grey(not oxidation/corrosien-colored). I was thinking, huh, is it copper plated SS, but then I remember reading a guy stating he believed his FT king v2 knurled brass contacts was SS with copper plating, but then another guy stated that it was brass, and that he should just keep sanding and eventually the brass would come through... He stated his king v2's from FT and 88 where all like that and wanted to try FC to see if it was different as they had told him that it was full copper when he inquired, but it's also much more expensive... I can also very slightly see the gold-colored nuance of the brass underneath the grey at a small place..
I don't mind as long as it performs like mine though
And the loose battery-rattle pin doesn't influence performance like you stated...Oh, just saw your post and review of the 'able' on FT... I'm jealous...
Edit: VD tests done with 5 presses and most consistent selected for value, both for cell voltage and voltage under load...
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How well does the copper version of the king v2 hold up. I have a slight addiction to copper. I like em shiney and new and with a little aged maturity to them.
I'll let you know later. My copper just arrived & I haven't even put an addy on it yet. I've only admired the perfect threads & switch.
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I don't have it, but this copper king v2 from FT for 15 bucks, is from the reviews the exact same as the knurled king v2 me and ninja has and which now is discontinued on FT. It gets amazing reviews there, btw... Code RMBBUST takes about 10% off also...
$15.22 King II Style Mechanical Mod - copper / 18350/18500/18650 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$15.22 King II Style Mechanical Mod - copper / 18350/18500/18650 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Thanks Mhertz...I was just on FT looking at that one, and the knurled copper one with the magnetic switch. Bad Ninja, you commented on that one its an Improof...what's wrong with them?
The one listed above isn't the knurled version and it's a little different ( still a good one).
The Improof logo just looks wonky to me, but I do have the Improof copper knurled version, and it's nice. I have to found a copper one without the Improof
I tried to avoid extra logos on mine, but seemed force to order the Fasttech $20 + 2¢ version w/Improof for the knurled style.
Sorry for my bad wording.. I meant it was identical, except knurling, and copper obviously... From the pics and some of the owners, they state it's "identical" except without brass/knurling and same manufacturer... Personally, I couldn't care less if knurled or not, just getting a good mod...
It's a very good mod.
The switch is a little different size-wise but overall it's the same design.
I bought the SS version without logos for a friend a while back and he loves it.
So I'm in San Diego for right now for work and I did a small tour of some nearby vape shops. The first one I went in had brass knurled King clones in the case and I got all excited. Then he told me they had it on sale...for $45. Hahahahahhahahahahahahah
After that he tried to sell me some other mech for $90 because the REO clone I was carrying just didn't feel "solid enough to last."
And by the way, I had to explain what squonking is.
After that he tried to sell me some other mech for $90 because the REO clone I was carrying just didn't feel "solid enough to last."
And by the way, I had to explain what squonking is.
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