I think all gennie users got their own little twist on the whole process. As they say, all roads lead to Rome. There is a certain way the end result has to be. How you get there is less important. It does help if you fail a lot tho. Gives you a good chance to take a closer look at how it's not supposed to be. Tilt the atty sideways and fire it up. Wick down. Always wick down with gennies. If one part starts glowing before the others - repeatedly - you got a hotspot issue. If the entire coil starts glowing after just a few seconds, you got wicking issues. If a coil leg starts glowing, like between wick and center post, you got hot leg issues (and you may actually be using an Aga T2).
Obviously the wick has to be wicking. I find that 400 and 500 mesh wicks all my liquids just fine for anything above 0.7 ohms with a 28 awg wire. Seems the 500 wicks better. Not entirely sure, but for some reason I prefer it. It's just a little more of a PITA to work with as it's so soft. Then you have to let air back into the tank when you take liquids out. Else you get a vacuum. Can't imagine this being your problem with the Kraken, tho. Unless the fill hole is plugged. If so, try plugging it with something with a tiny hole. Or unplugging it entirely.
Then the coil has to be... coiling? While you don't want to choke your wick, you certainly don't want your coil to
not be in contact at all points. At least with 28 awg wire, it won't really bite into your wick a lot. Thinner wire will. So you can err more on the snug side than the loose. Too snug, tho, and you'll get hotspots you can't sort out. Or a hot leg. Your topmost wrap is your most important one. Not too snug, not too tight. If it's too loose, you can "kink" the excess wire - or reattach to center post. One very easy to make "mistake" is to coil ones coils at a steep incline, then flatten them out when you work out the hotspots. Picture it. It will loosen up the coils. I try to move the coils as little as possible when sorting hotspots. Rather just poke and prod a little. Gently does it.
Then double and triple-check your build by dripping liquids on it and firing it up. Soak the wick if you will. If it's not good now, it won't be good until you dry out the wick again and sort out the issues. Which should be smaller and smaller every time. Shouldn't take more than a couple tries. Else you need to take a closer look again.
I'm far from an expert on gennies, but what I've found important (so far) is:
- Find the right tightness/looseness when rolling the mesh (apparently you have already been through that).
- Don't be ashamed of tilting. Yes a good wick may not need it, at least not when it's fresh, but I don't get why that is such a big deal in so many forum discussions. When I put my vaporizer to my lips, I usually tilt it anyway, so ...
- Oxidizing. When I'm done oxidizing the wick, I oxidize it again. And again. It pays off. Then there's the pulsing and massaging to get rid of hot spots. I've found that using five minutes extra on this step saves me fifty minutes of fiddling and swearing over the next few days.
As for the tilting. I'm a bit confused about that. I don't think anyone has ever defined what this tilting really is. I think of the "gennie tilt" as a tilt past the 45 degree mark with a full tank. As in, when you
need gravity to help your wicking. Other than that... as you say... we tilt anyway. Vaping it vertically would be very awkward. I do avoid the gangsta rapper style, tho.
