Very true, regulated device use the power curve below 3.7 but for all non regulated Reos the 1600 will be better.
Latest thoughts on batteries
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I wasn't clear. I should have chosen my words more carefully.
I chose the AW 2000 over the AW 1600 on purpose for my SL Grand. - And, actually, I chose the AW 2000 over the 1600 a long time ago for my rough stacks and other tube mods when I used to use such things. I like the longer amount of time the 2000 stays between 3.9v and 3.3v over the amount of time the 1600 stays between 4.2 and 3.8v. 4.2 to 3.8 is of far less importance to me compared to making it through a day without having to carry spare batts.
As far as if the 18650 VTC4 or 5's being a clone. I have had my 4 18650's VTC4's since I started vaping almost 6 months ago and they have been chugging along very fine. I'm down to two now (pretty sure the other two were stolen by gremlins) but I generally only have to change them out once in the morning and once at night. And I run them at around .7 - 1.0 on my LP
Ok, I can't stand the vape below 3.6 and typically change batteries around 3.8
Me too. 3.8v or just below. I can tell a difference around there even with my Vtc5s
moi aussi - I seem to be able to tell a 3.7v bat better than I can hear the phone ring (so my wife tells me... on the message she leaves me when she phones).
I just have one of my minions scurry behind me carrying spare batteries all day. I typically take one vape and have a man change the battery for a fresh one.
am I the only one who does this ?
am I the only one who does this ?
I just got in 2 Sony Vtc5 batteries from RTDVapors, a reliable source. however, in looking online at how to spot fakes I am concerned. About half of their eye tests are registering on the fake side, and half on the real side. What do you guys think...? I'm concerned 
To be more clear - they may be real in that the negative part of the battery is *not* raised like on fakes. I feel nothing sticky on the positive end. But the logo and the little barcode-ish lookign thing are *not* aligned...
To be more clear - they may be real in that the negative part of the battery is *not* raised like on fakes. I feel nothing sticky on the positive end. But the logo and the little barcode-ish lookign thing are *not* aligned...
RTD is a very reputable so I have no fear that what I get from them is not legit.
RTD is reputable. - Though, an hour and five minutes in to this vid, we get a picture of the possibility that VTC5 fakes can make their way really far up the distribution food chain, so anything is possible, I suppose. The other interesting tidbit in there is that the fakes the guy in the vid was dealing with were actually very high quality cells in their own right. It seems a little nuts that a counterfeiter would use an expensive cell and a labor intense process of remarking each cell to pass as a VTC, but that's what happened...
If it's any consolation, when I decided to get some VTC5s and did my best due diligence looking over the rumors, conjecture, test data, etc from the RC guys, flashlight guys, and threads here on ECF and elsewhere: Out of the ~20 sources I found for them, I chose RTD because RTD earned my trust a long time ago. RTD has never done me wrong.
RTD does seem reputable as any, so even though in a couple of ways it appears they are fake, it so too appears in a couple of ways they are legit.
Does fake mean they'd be dangerous, or maybe just not as good at holding their charge?
Mine are charging, I'm gonna go ahead and use them and test their voltage drop etc. but having only used AW IMRs, that won't help me spot it being a fake, will just show me if they hold charge longer than the AW
Does fake mean they'd be dangerous, or maybe just not as good at holding their charge?
Mine are charging, I'm gonna go ahead and use them and test their voltage drop etc. but having only used AW IMRs, that won't help me spot it being a fake, will just show me if they hold charge longer than the AW
RTD is a straight shooter he stocks genuine batteries straight from the manufacturers as far as I know. Have bought from him several times and got the real deal.
I don't notice much difference in the VTC5s versus the AW IMR 1600mahs...they don't drain as fast but don't seem to last as long as expected either. maybe getting 4ml down before hitting the 3.8 mark
I was reading a few days ago that Illuminationsupply had received a shipment of VTC5s that they suspected were fake. After inspection, they were determined to be rewrapped Samsungs. After testing, which Illuminationsupply routinely does with shipments of batteries, the batteries tested very close to Sony spec. I'm thinking possibly Sony sub contracted with Samsung in order to meet demand. Just a theory. I have no idea.
At any rate, I don't have any new AW 1600s to compare my VTC5s with. I have some around that I've had and used for a while; so any comparison wouldn't be very good. I have about 10 VTC5s that I use in rotation. I assume they are authentic, at least according to the picture comparisons that have been floating around. I usually vape dual coils at .5 ohms +/-, and I get about 4ml of juice per battery, before dropping below 3.7V. I've noticed with the VTC5s that they last a long time from 4.2V to about 3.8V. After that they drop off very fast. to below 3.7V.
At any rate, I don't have any new AW 1600s to compare my VTC5s with. I have some around that I've had and used for a while; so any comparison wouldn't be very good. I have about 10 VTC5s that I use in rotation. I assume they are authentic, at least according to the picture comparisons that have been floating around. I usually vape dual coils at .5 ohms +/-, and I get about 4ml of juice per battery, before dropping below 3.7V. I've noticed with the VTC5s that they last a long time from 4.2V to about 3.8V. After that they drop off very fast. to below 3.7V.
Yes, but...
Don't batteries them in that charger overnight or when you're away. That charger will trickle charge even after the battery has hit 4.2V.
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