Leaking issues with eGo-T tanks?

[Mindfield]

Okay, trying something a little bit wacky here while I wait for my brain to remember to see if I can get silica rope anywhere near me. (I also have an idea involving desoldering braid, and maybe a combination of the two -- or three if I get some PTBs involved, since I still have some lying around from older mod attempts.) I'm not quite yet ready to give up on the O-ring-type idea, so I've taken a new cartridge and am slathering the plastic cap with contact cement so that it comes up to and slightly over the lip of the center hole. Contact cement dries with slightly rubbery consistency so it may form an effective gasket around the needle and against the plate.

This may not be a good idea as the heat inside the atomizer might create rather unhealthy vapours (though probably not bad for the short duration I'll be testing this for), but this is just an experiment with what I have laying around; if it does work (being thinner than the silicone cap material and bonded to the plastic cap) then I can probably find a better sealant to try this with.

It's very slow drying stuff though so I won't know if it's effective 'til tomorrow.

 

[DaveP]

You might want to find some crimp type cylindrical ferrules that are small enough to fit into the needle plate "punch" tube. That would simulate what is in the stock wicking design. They are using some kind of thin metal wrapped around the end and compressed to hold it together. It has a tendency to lose fibers if handled to much during wick cleaning.

I'd be wary about using glue, especially in the present of hot juice that might slowly cause it to disintegrate and end up in your lungs as part of the vapor!

 

[unkstur]

ego tanks need some sort of a one way valve to let air into the tank to replace the fluid.
Someone figures that out they would be a hero.

 

[Mindfield]

Okay, I think I've figured out what the problem is. It doesn't seem to be a seal problem. It seems to be a wick problem.

I dissected both Type-A and Type-B atomizers and noticed something. Both of my Type-B (XL) atomizers had either very short wicks and/or the wicks had been burned down to stubs by the coil. When I opened them up I noticed the wick barely reached above the lip of the shelves on either side of the channel where the hole is, and the ends were quite burnt. I was also pulling numerous strands and clumps of wick material out from around the coil. On the other hand, all of my Type-As were long and fluffy with only light scorching.

This tells me that either the wick material between As and Bs is different, or the attys operate at different temperatures/resistances. I'm pretty certain it's the latter, because the coil and needle plate in the Type-As is identical to the Type-Bs, which tells me the TYpe-As are higher resistance. That explains why they don't produce as much vapor and run cooler than the Bs.

After transplanting a nice long, bushy wick and plate from an A to a B I started getting much more satisfying vapor production, only to see it dwindle again after a while. I also started tasting burnt wick. I haven't removed the plates from my Bs since the transplant yet because I want to see how long the transplant lasts. I should also mention that I generally re-seat the needle plate by first placing the needle into the opening of a tank and putting it in with the tank; it seems to work easiest. I mention this because with all of my tanks the fit around the needle is still very snug to the point where if I'm not careful I'll pull the plate back out of the atomizer after it's been seated when I remove the tank, so I just can't see the issue here being the seal. It's sealing just fine. (If nothing else the glue gasket should have worked if that was the issue.)

The problem definitely seems to be wicking, and liquids being allowed to run down the foreshortened wick and pool around the coil. I don't know if it's that the wicks are too long and getting burned by the atomizers, too fluffed out (more surface area for the coil to burn), not fluffed enough (not enough liquid making it to the atomizer), or what, but in the end it doesn't really matter: The wick material sucks and wears/burns out in mere days.

I still have to find a place that sells silica rope around me, or just order it online, but I have some ideas for wick material and/or designs that may or may not work. Just have to do some experimentation. I'm determined to get these atomizers working like champs again -- hopefully for more than just a few days.

 

[Mindfield]

You might want to find some crimp type cylindrical ferrules that are small enough to fit into the needle plate "punch" tube. That would simulate what is in the stock wicking design. They are using some kind of thin metal wrapped around the end and compressed to hold it together. It has a tendency to lose fibers if handled to much during wick cleaning.

I'd be wary about using glue, especially in the present of hot juice that might slowly cause it to disintegrate and end up in your lungs as part of the vapor!

Like I said, the glue experiment was only intended to work briefly to find out if the problem was really a seal issue -- the type of glue being used hardening to a firm rubber consistency would have made an ideal gasket to make absolutely sure there's a seal going on. It didn't work though as I explained in my above post; this is a wick issue.

The ring around the wick at the needle end I believe is nickel mesh. I have an idea how I might improve upon the wick design using something similar (desoldering braid) that may work, but I'll have to play with designs to see which if any work best.

Some possibilities I'm thinking of:

1) Create a thin wire mesh that fits in the well above the coil to prevent the wick from actually touching the coil. The mesh should help leech liquid from the wick itself and pass it down to the coil while keeping the wick from burning. As long as the mesh doesn't leech too much heat from the coil (requiring longer fire times to build up enough heat) and as long as it leeches enough liquid from the wick, this may provide a decent, fairly simple solution that may also allow you to use almost any type of string/rope material for your wick.

2) Cut the wick to a specific length and then wrap a few strands of braid wire around the wick to keep it together except at the very end, where it will be allowed to bush out. This could keep the wick from bushing out too far, getting caught in the coil and under the plate, and deliver liquid in a slightly more targeted fashion.

3) Screw the fiber wick altogether and see if I can compress some desoldering braid down enough to work as a straight up wick. This is a little far-fetched -- the capillary attraction of desoldering braid works quite well -- for solder. Not sure how it would work for a thinner material, hence the need to maybe crunch it down a bit. Still, I'm afraid the filaments might be too thick. Still, worth a shot. If I can get this to work I'd never need to change another wick, though.

 

[Embryodad]

Okay, I think I've figured out what the problem is. It doesn't seem to be a seal problem. It seems to be a wick problem.

I dissected both Type-A and Type-B atomizers and noticed something. Both of my Type-B (XL) atomizers had either very short wicks and/or the wicks had been burned down to stubs by the coil. When I opened them up I noticed the wick barely reached above the lip of the shelves on either side of the channel where the hole is, and the ends were quite burnt. I was also pulling numerous strands and clumps of wick material out from around the coil. On the other hand, all of my Type-As were long and fluffy with only light scorching.

This tells me that either the wick material between As and Bs is different, or the attys operate at different temperatures/resistances. I'm pretty certain it's the latter, because the coil and needle plate in the Type-As is identical to the Type-Bs, which tells me the TYpe-As are higher resistance. That explains why they don't produce as much vapor and run cooler than the Bs.

After transplanting a nice long, bushy wick and plate from an A to a B I started getting much more satisfying vapor production, only to see it dwindle again after a while. I also started tasting burnt wick. I haven't removed the plates from my Bs since the transplant yet because I want to see how long the transplant lasts. I should also mention that I generally re-seat the needle plate by first placing the needle into the opening of a tank and putting it in with the tank; it seems to work easiest. I mention this because with all of my tanks the fit around the needle is still very snug to the point where if I'm not careful I'll pull the plate back out of the atomizer after it's been seated when I remove the tank, so I just can't see the issue here being the seal. It's sealing just fine. (If nothing else the glue gasket should have worked if that was the issue.)

The problem definitely seems to be wicking, and liquids being allowed to run down the foreshortened wick and pool around the coil. I don't know if it's that the wicks are too long and getting burned by the atomizers, too fluffed out (more surface area for the coil to burn), not fluffed enough (not enough liquid making it to the atomizer), or what, but in the end it doesn't really matter: The wick material sucks and wears/burns out in mere days.

I still have to find a place that sells silica rope around me, or just order it online, but I have some ideas for wick material and/or designs that may or may not work. Just have to do some experimentation. I'm determined to get these atomizers working like champs again -- hopefully for more than just a few days.

That was the same issues I had found, and in a previous post...I had stated that the leak issues are were definetely the wicks falling on top the element coil..or even a new atty...had found only 1/8th of a wick from the manufacturer...even before I used it.
Another had only a piece of the metal cap intact...
There is a Lax in quality control in the assembly of the atty.

 

[Mindfield]

That was the same issues I had found, and in a previous post...I had stated that the leak issues are were definetely the wicks falling on top the element coil..or even a new atty...had found only 1/8th of a wick from the manufacturer...even before I used it.
Another had only a piece of the metal cap intact...
There is a Lax in quality control in the assembly of the atty.

Very much so, which is very disappointing. There must be something better we can use here in place of the crap they put in there. I just tried with some desoldering braid replacing the entire wick. Not surprisingly, it didn't work well at all. I really didn't think it would but I thought it was worth a shot. Going to scavenge another A-type wick and try a mesh coil cover next.

 

[Mindfield]

*sigh* So, nothing has worked out so far. Liquid doesn't wick enough down the wick to make it past a mesh grille if it's sitting on the shelf above the coil, and I couldn't find anything with a mesh small enough to cut down to the size needed to fit inside the coil well -- but I suspect that even if I could I'd get a metallic taste to everything anyway. Desoldering braid is useless in just about any capacity (and tastes nasty anyway). So I'm back to having to track down a place to get silica rope in Canada, preferably somewhere local in Toronto/GTA and making new wicks. Even then I couldn't say if they'll perform any better and wouldn't have to be replaced every few days.

It seems like the only real way to keep these working and not burning the wick too badly is to keep the wick and coil thoroughly soaked, almost to the point of flooding. I think part of the problem too is the resistance of these attys being lower than the As; when I dry burn a B with the needle plate removed it burns red hot. The As don't. I know a higher resistance would mean less vapour and less TH, but it seems to me the resistance on these is too low. I'm almost tempted to call them LR, except I haven't tried a LR B atty so I have nothing to compare it with.

So, not really sure what a lasting solution might be. I've got two more new Bs on the way potentially by the end of the week (presuming Canada Post's strike action doesn't hit my neck of the woods) so I'll have to figure out something by then. Otherwise I might have to look for a different system and/or brand that works better more reliably. My wife wants to try some modded 510s with Bauway atomizers, so maybe I'll try one myself.

 

[Mindfield]

Okay, I think I may be on to something here. Not an ideal solution, but getting closer to one.

I mentioned earlier that I tried making a mesh grille to cover the coil, but couldn't find a fine enough mesh to make one small enough to fit right inside the well without the strands falling apart. Well, as I sat here at work today it occurred to me that I work for a company that has access to small engine carburetor parts right in our own warehouse, which I can walk right out to from my office and grab. Specifically, a line of carbs that use very small, extremely thin, extremely fine-mesh steel fuel strainers. These things are designed to keep fine dust particulate matter out of the fuel system, so I thought this might work. I can cut it small enough to fit inside the well, and it's thin and malleable enough to form around the coil so it stays put and as close to the coil as possible.

My results?

Pros:
- Liquid transfers from the wick to the mesh well, thus gets vaporized by the coil well. I don't have to constantly prime to suck in more liquid.
- No burning! The wick is kept away from direct contact with the coil, with the mesh acting as an intermediate transfer layer for the liquid.
- No foul taste. It did take a few puffs for a slight metallic taste to go away, but once it did everything was fine and the juice had its full flavour.
- The filters are dirt cheap, even at retail prices (well under a buck each).
- No flooding. Once primed, the liquid stays put as long as you don't over-prime.

Cons:
- Harder draw. However, this is likely because I cut the filter to a round shape which occupies most of the coil well and partially blocks the air vents, especially when the mesh is filled with liquid. I can probably refine the design to cut a bit off each side to allow more air to flow while wrapping the mesh around the coil better.
- Somewhat reduced vapor production. Again, this can probably be solved by refining the design to wrap around the coil to provide more surface area for the liquid to vaporize. Right now it's only partially tucked into the well, not formed around the coil (it's hard to work with this stuff without the proper tools that I have at home.)
- It isn't permanently attached so it can fall out if I clean by forced water pressure or if I remove the needle plate. This isn't a huge problem though as once installed (and properly cut to solve the above problems) it should easily survive cleaning by running under tap water or soaking in alcohol.

I'm going to try it the way it is for another day or two to see how it holds up before doing any refinements though just to be sure it holds up.

EDIT: Wrapped the mesh around the coil a little better using a pair of round toothpicks as makeshift tweezers (I'm a freakin' McGuyver) and it's working a little better, but there's a small flap covering one of the air vents still, so I'll have to address that. Still, i helps to confirm my theories on getting this to work properly.

 

[shade82000]

I'm not at all happy with the Ego-T now

I took delivery of two type B LR attys, five type B tanks and some type B silicone replacement caps on Saturday and assembled the parts straight away. I thought the silicone caps would help alleviate problems if the juice was leaking down the outside of the wick tube, but the empty tanks came with plastic caps so I used one of those first.

Today it started leaking. Yes today, 3 days from new. I was at work and I took it out of my pocket after being sat down for two hours. It was leaking badly in my pocket, then leaked on my desk.

I grabbed some towels and cleaned up. Time to give the silicone caps a try. I refilled and it worked for the rest of the day, then when I got to the train station I went outside for a puff and got a mouthful of liquid. Nasty.

Then it leaked in my pocket on the train.

It's costing me as much to operate this T as I used to spend on real tobacco

I just want something that works without too much maintenance.

What do I need to convert my T into a regular Ego? Or if I need to I will buy another make if anyone can tell me which one just works consistently with no problems. I just need something reliable.

Anything but smoking analogs again! I nearly bought some tobacco today I was so unhappy with this £55 pack of rubbish (not counting the 6 attys I have used over the last 2 months).

 

[Embryodad]

I'm not at all happy with the Ego-T now

I took delivery of two type B LR attys, five type B tanks and some type B silicone replacement caps on Saturday and assembled the parts straight away. I thought the silicone caps would help alleviate problems if the juice was leaking down the outside of the wick tube, but the empty tanks came with plastic caps so I used one of those first.

Today it started leaking. Yes today, 3 days from new. I was at work and I took it out of my pocket after being sat down for two hours. It was leaking badly in my pocket, then leaked on my desk.

I grabbed some towels and cleaned up. Time to give the silicone caps a try. I refilled and it worked for the rest of the day, then when I got to the train station I went outside for a puff and got a mouthful of liquid. Nasty.

Then it leaked in my pocket on the train.

It's costing me as much to operate this T as I used to spend on real tobacco

I just want something that works without too much maintenance.

What do I need to convert my T into a regular Ego? Or if I need to I will buy another make if anyone can tell me which one just works consistently with no problems. I just need something reliable.

Anything but smoking analogs again! I nearly bought some tobacco today I was so unhappy with this £55 pack of rubbish (not counting the 6 attys I have used over the last 2 months).

I started the eGo starter kit using the 510 atty's and the cartridges 7 months ago and have not had a cigarette (analog) yet.

I was so happy with JOY when the T-tanks came out, and I thought it to be the final answer to my vaping and pleasure.....
Unfortunately..with the leaking and dribbling, and with all the trials and errors of trying to find a cause for the drippage...I gave up .

I now have found (thanks to DD and BF presenting me with a early Fthers Day Gift)...the ultimate foolproof way to vape with absolutely no drippage / leakage / doubt / failure...and a easy way to enjoy this substitute for analog smoke...and I've been a over 50 year heavy hooked on the habit kind of a person with no desire to quit until my death.
The unit is a Reo-Mini. Absolute masterful piece of workmanship and as simple as filling an infants bottle, and installing a battery in a searchlight.

Vaping changed my life, and I have MORE enjoyment than I did while smoking.

 

[shade82000]

I've had a look at those Mini Reo's and they seem like a good smoke, but I'm after something much more conventional. The Ego style is about as far away from a normal looking cig as I am prepared to go.

Since I already have 2 good 1000mAh batteries, I think I just want to try converting my T to a regular Ego if anyone knows what I need?

Also, before I give Janty any more money, does anyone know if the regular Ego suffers problems with leaking?

Ell.

 

[Embryodad]

I've had a look at those Mini Reo's and they seem like a good smoke, but I'm after something much more conventional. The Ego style is about as far away from a normal looking cig as I am prepared to go.

Since I already have 2 good 1000mAh batteries, I think I just want to try converting my T to a regular Ego if anyone knows what I need?

Also, before I give Janty any more money, does anyone know if the regular Ego suffers problems with leaking?

Ell.

I was the same way. No way did I want to stand out like a person holding a Hand Grenade in public. I for sure would wind up in the Brigg on a slow boat to China with it.

I wanted to be more stealth about it.

Well, I changed my tune entirely, and did a 180º on my outlook.

The Reo-Mini lies in my hand unobtrusively. It actually is very stealthy, and I used it just today at a medical surgical building.
I had to take DW there fro a proceedure, and I was outside the facility with my new Reo-Mini. It was a conversation piece with two other (cigarette smoking) people. They were eyeing me as I vaped; mini in my palm, and they were trying to figure out what the black tip was that I was sucking on, and vaping a visible cloud. I later showed them, and they said,"We Heard about them, and is like smoking?"....I answered,"Better than" Like $96.00 a week better; and with more enjoyment, and better flavor!"

I am so glad I overcame moving to the mini from the standard eGo. The eGo was what I was using, and with the standard 510 atomizers and the fillable little cartridges. It was like 20 draws of vaper, and ready for a refill...over and over ....and over.

Now I jus squeeze me bah ul an awye I go....LOL..

 

[DaveP]

Converting an Ego-T back to an Ego is just a matter of ordering a new atomizer. The mega type B is my favorite. It has a 2.5ml cart with polyfill fiber that last quite a while. You still will experience leakage from time to time, but not as bad as the tanks. I'm still using both my type A and type B tanks because I like the convenience of a large fill. IMO, the 2.5ml capacity of the standard polyfill carts is without the filler in place. The filler reduces the amount of liquid that you can put in. Nevertheless, I can put 60+ drops onto the standard Ego mega type B cart.

 

[Mindfield]

I was the same way. No way did I want to stand out like a person holding a Hand Grenade in public. I for sure would wind up in the Brigg on a slow boat to China with it.

I wanted to be more stealth about it.

Well, I changed my tune entirely, and did a 180º on my outlook.

The Reo-Mini lies in my hand unobtrusively. It actually is very stealthy, and I used it just today at a medical surgical building.
I had to take DW there fro a proceedure, and I was outside the facility with my new Reo-Mini. It was a conversation piece with two other (cigarette smoking) people. They were eyeing me as I vaped; mini in my palm, and they were trying to figure out what the black tip was that I was sucking on, and vaping a visible cloud. I later showed them, and they said,"We Heard about them, and is like smoking?"....I answered,"Better than" Like $96.00 a week better; and with more enjoyment, and better flavor!"

I am so glad I overcame moving to the mini from the standard eGo. The eGo was what I was using, and with the standard 510 atomizers and the fillable little cartridges. It was like 20 draws of vaper, and ready for a refill...over and over ....and over.

Now I jus squeeze me bah ul an awye I go....LOL..

How is it on vapour production and throat hit though? I started with an eGo so I know how the 510 atomizer performs (though I have yet to try the Bauway, which is supposedly better) and I found it a bit underwhelming. Since the Reo uses a 510 atty does it perform more or less the same?

 

[Mindfield]

So, I've been using the carburetor strainer for a couple of days now. It seems to perform okay as far as vapor production goes, and there's still no burning which is awesome. I can't quite solve the blockage issue though -- it's damn fiddly to work with a 3mm square piece of fine steel mesh and it seems it's going to require a bit of precision placement and forming in order wrap it around the top and sides of the coil and still leave a gap for the vent underneath. That seems to be the key: Full contact (or as full as possible) with the coil by the mesh so the liquid can be leeched into it and surround the coil for maximum liquid saturation and vaporization. The problem really is I have no good tools for working with things that small in such a tight space. But it does work. I just have to fiddle with it s'more -- but I only have one strainer left to chop up. Going to have to order more.

 

[shade82000]

Ok then I'm defo no risking a regular Ego atty if they have any chance of leaking.

Of the 2 attys I got on Saturday, one leaked in my pocket twice yesterday, after 3 days use; the other one went on yesterday (new tank & cap too) and leaked in my bag today.

Ended up buying some analogs to last the rest of the day.

I won't buy any Janty gear again and for anyone reading this and considering an Ego, I would defo not recommend one, its very unreliable and unpredictable at best.

I guess its time to read some more reviews and start shopping again...

 

[Mindfield]

Ok then I'm defo no risking a regular Ego atty if they have any chance of leaking.

If you don't overfill and store them battery up in your pocket they won't leak. Stand them battery down and yeah, there's enough liquid in those XL carts that gravity will do its thing and flood the atty if not leak outright.

I won't buy any Janty gear again and for anyone reading this and considering an Ego, I would defo not recommend one, its very unreliable and unpredictable at best.

I guess its time to read some more reviews and start shopping again...

Oddly, I've had the opposite experience with Janty. I bought some (supposedly) genuine Joye eGo atomizers that each died within a month. On the other hand, the Jantys I bought to replace them last fall are still working, though not as well as they did at first. Still, they've had a good run. Plus, after the bloody tank fiasco I'm not really putting much stock in Joye products these days. My wife wants to get a 510 kit, so we're eyeballing some modded 510 kits from a vendor here in Canada that contain Bauway atomizers that supposedly work a lot better.

 

[Nancyusa]

Ok then I'm defo no risking a regular Ego atty if they have any chance of leaking.

Of the 2 attys I got on Saturday, one leaked in my pocket twice yesterday, after 3 days use; the other one went on yesterday (new tank & cap too) and leaked in my bag today.


..

It sounds like you are talking about the tank leaking with a cap. If you want to carry pre-filled tanks...I've found that they don't leak when inserted into an atomizer.

I've been using the ego tank for over 4 months with good success with 8 atty's in rotation. I've only lost 1 atty and 2 wicks so far. I pull the plates, dry burn, burn the wick, and check the wick position. They work as new after cleaning.

I had a couple of leaky atty's when I started, but haven't had the problem since I started cleaning my atty's...don't know what fixed the problem...probably repositioning the wick.

Here is a link to atty cleaning with video...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...9915-new-ego-tank-system-233.html#post3210797

Here is link to atty adjustment
YouTube - ‪eGo-t wick adjustment‬‏

 

[Nancyusa]

You may want to consider the ECHO E cartomizers...they work with the ego batteries...cost about $ 5 ...getting good reviews...no leaking