Leaking kanger T3S

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djezewski

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I am wondering if because I misplaced it for a week if it got clogged. I have only been using T3's for a couple months and T3s for just a couple weeks...so these are still pretty new to me. I do clean them all every few days but this one I hadn't since it wasn't around. I am trying the extra flavor wick off of a vivi nova coil that died on the T3 that had been leaking. (it is drying now since I wanted to clean it first) On my first try at adding wick was with cotton which a couple months ago that was a big failure..I probably used a cotton yarn that was unsuitable.
 

IMFire3605

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All white pure cotton yarn works, I've done this in a couple rebuilds. Downside takes a bit to get the flavor to kick in, biggest downside, can't handle high temps, so when I had to dry burn my coils to clean them, had to replace the yarn each time, silica doesn't scorch as much, but cotton yarn, oh, when the wick gets good, it is gooooooooooood, as far as flavor. I just prefer silica, I've also seen a couple modifications of one using Stainless mesh wick and another a ceramic wick build, but the guy who did these builds is just insane, 0.2 ohms 26 ga kanthal micro-coil on a K100 mechanical mod with the protank I seen these on.
 

crxess

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I would not listen to hard to the experts that couldn't fix them and say they are junk.
I've been using T3's, MT3's T3-mini's for months and now have Evods and Protanks.

As to what juice, well I vape anything from 80/20 to 50/50. No real issues with any of them.

Some notes. Always check sicks if leaking. Some get out of the factory missing a flavor wick or 2.
Light Vapes will increase chances of leaking.
Low power will increase chances of leaking - 2.8ohm BBC on standard Ego type battery = not so good.
Juice in mouth - usually actually condensation
Fluffing wick ends actually helps
Never remove flavor wicks unless getting Dry hits.

I seem to be able to vape mine dry, rarely ever getting a gurgle or any appreciable leaking. could simply be difference in Vape technique. :blink:
 

IMFire3605

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I would not listen to hard to the experts that couldn't fix them and say they are junk.
I've been using T3's, MT3's T3-mini's for months and now have Evods and Protanks.

As to what juice, well I vape anything from 80/20 to 50/50. No real issues with any of them.

Some notes. Always check sicks if leaking. Some get out of the factory missing a flavor wick or 2.
Light Vapes will increase chances of leaking.
Low power will increase chances of leaking - 2.8ohm BBC on standard Ego type battery = not so good.
Juice in mouth - usually actually condensation
Fluffing wick ends actually helps
Never remove flavor wicks unless getting Dry hits.

I seem to be able to vape mine dry, rarely ever getting a gurgle or any appreciable leaking. could simply be difference in Vape technique. :blink:

Factory heads will always gurgle on me, but I've tinkered around with the heads enough I know where to tweek here and there to get constistent performance, but sounds like you have a similar vaping technique to me. I've got various clearos, DCTs, couple RBAs and an RDA, and I always fall onto my T3's as the ones I like the best due to performance, consistency, reliability, ease to maintain, and capacity. I've only recently started swapping out my first gen T3 heads/bases with T3S heads and bases just due to they are easier to rebuild and they perform just as I expect my first gen heads/bases to.
 

sailense

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that could be it..I tried dry burning the cotton yarn

You can't dry burn cotton. The wick burns almost instantly. Silica wick burns at 1600 degrees, so that's why can dry burn with silica wick. But with cotton, you always have to make sure the wick is moist or you'll burn it every time.
 

xpackaday

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I've looked it up a dozen times and I've done everything people say to do to fix it. I've cleaned the coil, I've made sure all the gaskets are on good, evening is tight. I've got two different coil heads I've put on it and with both a couple of light puffs in and it starts to gargle then leak on to my battery. If any one could help it would be awesome, because I love the the vape on the t3s when it works

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

I have 2 t3 and 2 mt3 sitting that I could never get to stop leaking. moved to evod 3+ months ago and never had a leak since. They can sit days and they still don't leak.
 

Coastal Cowboy

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The T3S solves most of the problems that plagued the T3 and MT3.

The reason is that the new base accepts the same coils that go into evods and Protanks. Those coils have a much tighter design than the original T3 base/coil. You can look straight through the slot where the coil and wick go in the T3. Even with no coil and wick, once you put the stem back on the newer coil design, there's maybe a pinhole (if that) of clearance and the silicone grommet covers that.

Get the MT3S replacement base, screw in a new Kanger evod or Protank coil, fill'er up and vape.

I have never had a leaking or gurgling problem with any of my genuine Kanger tanks that weren't of my own dang fault or that I couldn't solve with a little flavor wick.
 
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... I don't use any really thin e liquids, but I did read somewhere that if it's a really thin liquid, it might just leak no matter what you do. I love all of mine, I hope you can get it working to your liking.

Greetings darkreaper,

Started Vaping : July 1st, 2013
Stopped Smoking : Not Applicable

I too use the Kangertech T3S. I've not had any problems. I've even took it apart to clean it. I think Zooker is probably right in mentioning the thickness of your e-Juice. FYI.... I use a 50/50 blend. Although I'm not an experienced vaper.... if I were to use thin (watery) e-liquids... I would try to use it on a 'top' wicking system. (if that makes any sense) Again.... I'm new so I'm not knowledgeable in tank systems. All I'm saying is that I use the Kangertech T3S and have no problems with leaking. You might want to CLOSELY examine your rubber seals for tears or damage.
 

ingerri

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The T3S solves most of the problems that plagued the T3 and MT3.

The reason is that the new base accepts the same coils that go into evods and Protanks. Those coils have a much tighter design than the original T3 base/coil. You can look straight through the slot where the coil and wick go in the T3. Even with no coil and wick, once you put the stem back on the newer coil design, there's maybe a pinhole (if that) of clearance and the silicone grommet covers that.

Get the MT3S replacement base, screw in a new Kanger evod or Protank coil, fill'er up and vape.

I have never had a leaking or gurgling problem with any of my genuine Kanger tanks that weren't of my own dang fault or that I couldn't solve with a little flavor wick.

so u recommend NOT using the t3s coils? I had read that protank, evod ones don't fit properly into a t3/mt3 tube.
 

IMFire3605

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so u recommend NOT using the t3s coils? I had read that protank, evod ones don't fit properly into a t3/mt3 tube.

Correct, the T3S head, the flange under the wicks is narrower on the T3S than on an Evod/Protank head, just couple millimeters narrower in diameter. However the T3S heads can fit in the Evod/Protank bases, just not the other way around. Side by side Stock Evod and Stock T3S, the T3S performs just as good as the Evod does, just has more liquid capacity on the tank than the Evod, T3/T3S up to 3 mils, Evod 1.6ish mils. Not expensive to switch older T3/MT3's to the new base, which you can buy sepperately, only problem I've found, is 1.8ohm T3S heads get sold out fast, or are out of stock very quickly for those of you that use base Ego styles that aren't variable volt or wattage, 2.5ohm heads are plentiful for those that run on VV/VW devices ;)
 
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