Leaking kanger T3S

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darkreaper

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Jun 20, 2013
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Josephine, Texas
I've looked it up a dozen times and I've done everything people say to do to fix it. I've cleaned the coil, I've made sure all the gaskets are on good, evening is tight. I've got two different coil heads I've put on it and with both a couple of light puffs in and it starts to gargle then leak on to my battery. If any one could help it would be awesome, because I love the the vape on the t3s when it works

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Zooker

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Two things I can think of that *might* help, one is that I've found you need to keep it full, at least halfway full, and it really gets rid of any gurgling. The second thing would be to try giving it a blow through, once assembled, from the connector end, to maintain the vacuum in the tube and minimize any leaking. (this helps with Protanks, evods, MT3S too) I don't use any really thin e liquids, but I did read somewhere that if it's a really thin liquid, it might just leak no matter what you do. I love all of mine, I hope you can get it working to your liking.
 
I haven't used T3S, but as I understand its a bottom coil much like the protank of which I tried 3 of them. I had nothing but problems with them flodding/gurgling dripping fluid all over the battery and my pockets and popping droplets in my mouth. I tried rebuilding the coil with a bit thicker wick and this helped reduce gurgling but ended up getting dry hits and scorching the wick leaving with terrible flavor after a day.

Using a thicker juice(more VG) might also help.

It seems to me that this flooding is a problem that is almost unavoidable with bottom coils. It did seem to be worse for me in hot weather. One aspect that someone pointed out to me could be that heat is causing air to expand in the tank. If you fill the tank in an air conditioned place and then go out into the hot summer weather, any rise in temperature will cause the air in the tank to expand, pushing the liquid out the bottom, since there is no other place for the pressure to go. This might explain why having a more full tank is less problematic (less air available to be able to expand).

Another possibility is that the heat is maybe thinning the liquid a bit and making it flow out the bottom more easily.
It also seems like once it starts to flood, it just keeps going until you have taken it apart and cleaned everything out, probably due to a sort of siphoning effect.

Avoiding temperature changes like this is impossible for me living in hot texas weather.

Recently switched to a smoktech pyrex vivi nova and so far it has been wonderful. Its only been a day but no flooding issues at all so far.
 
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Bill's Magic Vapor

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A rule of thumb that I follow and know to be true is that if a clearomizer has the potential to leak, it will leak. Since I love all of my bottom coils, especially the evod, I know the moment it starts to flood and I simply remove it from my batt and blow from the drip tip while holding the evod upside down into a Kleenex. No more flooding. Second thing I do is I bought some pipe cleaners, 1,000 of them for next to nothing. I may have a lifetime supply. When I start to hear that first gurgle, I hit the tip and center tube with a pipe cleaners.

The reason I can sometimes get serious leaking from the bottom is that I use a lot of heat with my thick cinnamon Danish juice and I burn the coil and wick pretty good. Once the wick is blackened, it does not absorb the juice, so the juice has a chance to run down to my battery. I've rebuilt my coils after only two or three days and see this burning first hand. A quick fix is to put another coil/head in there and clear the flooding, keeping the tank as full as you can. Pressure, burnt coils/wicks, thin juice all contribute to leaking. Don't let anyone tell you differently, all clearos leak, unless the air flow is from the top, so 99% of clearos leak. They are very easy to fix, and fixing them has become so second nature, that I don't give it a moment's thought, and I certainly don't get frustrated anymore. It's the nature of the beast. Like getting upset when the dog barks. Dogs bark....Anyway, watch the videos, learn the fixes, understand the potential user "errors" that contribute to leaking....you'll be fine. For clearomizers, I just don't think you can beat bottom coils, imho, for the flavor and the vapor. It's all subjective, but I'll keep fixin' them and loving them, even when they leak. My two cents. Good luck, Power Up and Vape ON!
 

djezewski

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I have found that the stem on the t3s can come loose from the connector ring..not sure how. Another thing I have found is sometimes I have to keep loosening and tightening the ring from the tube as it will not always draw. I had problems with T3's leaking and some some minor flooding with the T3s'. I guess there is still room for improvement on them.
 

darkreaper

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Jun 20, 2013
36
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Josephine, Texas
I watched the video and tried some things that guy said and none of it worked so I think I'll just give up on the t3s. But I discovered something interesting. I also have a vivi nova and ce6 but I thought all the coils were burned out.I have been cleaning them repeatedly and still have a horrible burnt taste, so I figured what do I have to loose I pulled apart the ce6 atomizer removed the wick and scrapped all the gunk out from in between the coils and put it back together now the taste as good as the day I bought it. Basically I'm saying I as a newb I've been intimidated by the prospect of rebuilding an atomizer but I'm pretty sure I can do it. So I think that will be the way I go, instead of buying tanks that constantly let me down

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darkreaper

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Jun 20, 2013
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Josephine, Texas
Another new T3s coil failure..it won't draw. Not sure where the problem..used it in my Mini T3. Soaking it in vodka to see if that fixesthen I think I will pull off that metal piece to see if it is a coil issue. Frustrating.

That sucks. It's safe to I've fixed mine, most of the day vaping and haven't had a single problem, it works like it should have when I bought it. But I never had a problem with it not drawing
 

djezewski

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Pulling up the gasket didn't work. Luckily I have a 3 new coil stems left in case I can't fix it. I am saving all my parts in case someday I get up my nerve to rebuild. Now that I have new eyeglasses it may not be so bad. I just need to figure out what size wire and silica wick I would need.
 

darkreaper

Full Member
Jun 20, 2013
36
11
Josephine, Texas
Pulling up the gasket didn't work. Luckily I have a 3 new coil stems left in case I can't fix it. I am saving all my parts in case someday I get up my nerve to rebuild. Now that I have new eyeglasses it may not be so bad. I just need to figure out what size wire and silica wick I would need.

That's how I fixed the leaking problem. I took some silica from another coil and added it to the small piece that's already there. No more gurgling or leaking and vapes great.

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evan le'garde

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A simple solution is to add a couple of extra 1mm flavour wicks to stem the flow of liquid. It works perfectly after that, no gurgling or leaking. On a couple of my T3's i've even added as many as 4 extra wicks on top of the flavour wicks that are already there. Each one of my T3's is slightly different and all of them have varying amounts of extra wicks in. Just keep piling in more silica until the gurgling and leaking stops. So i use my T3's everyday as well as a Protank, which is awsome by the way. And as soon as that starts leaking, been ok for a couple of months now, I'll add more silica. Takes 2 minutes to insert some silica and trim off the excess. I'll be using these T3's for ever, easy to recoil so can't complain. Great for the price the T3's. No real maintenance at all, no fuss, no problem ! :vapor:..:2cool:..:).......................
 

IMFire3605

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May 3, 2013
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Pulling up the gasket didn't work. Luckily I have a 3 new coil stems left in case I can't fix it. I am saving all my parts in case someday I get up my nerve to rebuild. Now that I have new eyeglasses it may not be so bad. I just need to figure out what size wire and silica wick I would need.

I use 30 or 32 gauge kanthal wire, and 2mm silica wick to rebuild my T3 heads in a 3 fold silica to 5 twist micro-coil kanthal wrap on my heads. No gurgle unless really warm or really low on the tank or ambient temperature, I live in Phoenix, so I have noticed ambient temperature is affecting things lately and stepped up to the 3 fold 5 wrap setup, no issues just yet other than have to do an couple primer puffs before firing if I am chain vaping. To get started rebuilding you'll need the wire and wick of course, pretty cheap no matter where you buy them, pair of needle nose pliers, pair of flush cutters, a multi-meter, a 4/40 machine screw, paper clip, 1/8 - 3/32 drill bit, or toothpick, and pair of scissors, you'll be in business ;)

Machine screw coil wrap for Vivi Nova / Kanger T3 - YouTube
How To: Fix your leaking Kanger T3! - YouTube
 
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