What am I doing wrong now? (T3s with ego battery)

[Spazmelda]

I went back and as, and OP actually said he was using an off brand of e-liquid, where I though he/she was saying an off brand of heads. Still, if they are not kanger coils, that could cause an issue with the draw. And like Chili said, if you are sucking very hard, it's going to cause flooding. No doubt about it. I can flood my Kayfun by covering the air hole and sucking like it's a triple thick milkshake. Since air can't come it, it just sucks the liquid right up.

OP, is there any possibility you could take your tanks and batteries to the B&M and have them try to troubleshoot?

 

[Unsilenced]

The one thing that Spazmelda brings up that no one else has is the origin of your replacement coils and are they genuine KangerTech? It sounds to me like you're getting poor contact with the battery post, then you suck like mad to try to get some kind of hit, thus causing flooding and leaking. Based on your original post it sounds like your big troubles began when you started using these replacement coils. Have you tried a different coil from your five-pack? Tried a genuine KangerTech coil? In my opinion, those coils are suspect.

I have these coils here that are labled as being T3, no label on the box to tell me if they're made by Kanger tech. Then I have these other ones I ordered by mistake that are labeled as being for Protank/EVOD/Unitank, which I assumed was wrong, but when I arrived I found they all look identical as best I can tell without a set of calipers. Tried one from each box, plus have gone through a box of 1.8's from the white-box off brand ones, which worked well enough besides burning out ridiculously fast.

Where would I go to make sure I'm getting the genuine article?

I went back and as, and OP actually said he was using an off brand of e-liquid, where I though he/she was saying an off brand of heads. Still, if they are not kanger coils, that could cause an issue with the draw. And like Chili said, if you are sucking very hard, it's going to cause flooding. No doubt about it. I can flood my Kayfun by covering the air hole and sucking like it's a triple thick milkshake. Since air can't come it, it just sucks the liquid right up.

OP, is there any possibility you could take your tanks and batteries to the B&M and have them try to troubleshoot?

Not sure what you mean by B&M, but the local head shop is completely useless for anything but overpriced CE4s and the aforementioned off-brand liquid. They sell the basic stuff, but when I come in with anything I got online and ask if they can get replacement parts, they look at it like it's alien technology.

 

[rowdyplace]

I have these coils here that are labled as being T3... <<snip>>

Where would I go to make sure I'm getting the genuine article?

Not sure what you mean by B&M, but the local head shop... <<snip>>

I get mine here http://www.usavapeshop.com/Kanger-MT3-T3S-replacement-coils-5-pack-k009.htm

There must be a place closer to you. Kanger is a leading brand.

B&M is "brick and morter" store.

 

[Chili Three Way]

I buy my coils from MyFreedomSmokes.com and have had very little problems with my coils. I have ran into a coil or two that just did not seem to be properly machined and did not make proper contact. However, this has been the exception, not the rule. The vast majority of the coils I get from MFS are spot on and work as designed.

From what I have seen/read the knocks will not have the resistance stamped on them. If you look at the shaft, just below the lower threads you should see the resistance stamped on the coil. If the information I have is correct only genuine KangerTech will have this. I read it on the internet, so it must be true (JK).

I guess my point is that if you have thoroughly cleaned all parts of the T3S, allowed them to sit at least overnight, if not for twenty four hours to dry, and are still not getting any vapor then there is definitely a problem with the coil heating up. So why would the coil not heat up? I can only think of a few things that would cause this. 1) weak battery. 2) bad coil, or 3) bad connection between the coil and the battery. Going on the assumption that the battery is fully charged can can eliminate number one, leaving us with options two and three. Also assuming that we have the correct coil cartridge and the coil is brand new, we should be able to eliminate option two as well. Leaving us at option three, bad connection. We simply are not getting enough power to the coil to heat up up sufficiently to produce vapor.

I have ran into a similar situation where I had bad contact. It was caused, I believe, by the post of the coil cartridge not protruding quite far enough to make proper contact with the battery post. The Ohm meter on my MVP 2 did not read the resistance, so I'm sure there was insufficient contact. I swapped it out for a new coil and BAM! It worked fine again. These things are far from perfect.

I have heard, though I have never experienced it, of the battery post getting pushed down a little bit from over tightening. My friend said he used a stiff paper clip to somehow lift the post up a tiny bit and his problem was resolved. In his case he had two different head units, one worked, one didn't. After lifting the post a tiny bit they both worked.

I'm sure there is a resolution to the issue you're having. I hope you can find it.

 

[rowdyplace]

I did some work in this area recently. I got tired of the battery pin issue and also built a test jig to measure atty resistance and battery voltage under load:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/tips-tricks/521052-homemade-test-jig-ego-batteries-attys.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...0-battery-center-pin-pemanent-almost-fix.html

I also use the T3s and eGo battery - with no problem.

 

[HughDaHand]

I so new I hesitate to chime in; but I just started with the T3S. The fellows told me that after using it for a "while" (an undefined length of time) depending on the e-liquid and the amount of normal seepage - the small air-holes in the knurled base (three tiny holes) can sometimes become partially or even completely blocked; one or more of them and it may become very hard to "draw". If it happens they said to soak in "hot water" and/or clear the holes with a piece of wire, drill bit or other suitable 'tool'. I immediately stopped at the auto parts house and bought an inexpensive "feeler gauge" and put in in a safe place. Better to have it on hand.

I don't know if this could be the issue, but since it sounds like the T3S has been in use for a while, maybe it is the holes contributing to the problem?? Or ...... maybe not. Just a new guys thoughts.

Tom

As I was reading through this thread I almost couldn't believe no one mentioned cleaning these air holes. Its pretty obvious that this is a air flow issue with all the post so far. This was a common thing I had to do when using this style of kanger tank, never had a T3s but had the old t3 and evods which have the same setup. These holes were constantly getting clogged on me leading to flooding like the OP described. I just used a sewing needle to poke the gunk out of them every time I would change the coil and that kept them working great for the most part.

Also sometimes the air holes in the base are drilled lower on some bases than others. This can sometime lead to airflow problems on different brands of ego battery's. Sometimes the holes get covered by the threads on the battery depending on the threading of the battery. Some battery's need you to screw the head down farther than others. I gave one of my evods to a friend that worked great on my battery's but had restricted airflow on his iTaste VV v3.

 

[Bikenstein]

The T3S is very sensitive to the way you tighten the coil.If there is any buildup or contaminant on the coil base it will prevent the coil from contacting the battery before the base bottoms out on the battery. Ideally the base doesn't bottom out before contact is made. You turn until you feel a somewhat spongy feel. If it just just feels like a hard sudden mechanical stop, then the coil is never contacting the battery. One of my 5 were just doin this, so I took the coil out, cleaned the base and tightened it makin sure the gasket went fully into the recess of the base and it works just fine. The hard stop is not there now as I can feel the sponginess of the coil comin into contact with the battery before the base bottoms out. I hadn't bothered with it before since it would work on my clone batteries but it wouldn't work on the Kanger. I know you've already tried several coils but check and make sure the gasket seat in your base is good and clean. Thanks for your post or I would never have bothered to fix this one. Also make sure you don't have an extra gasket in there

 

[Bikenstein]

Just an update on my one T3S not firing. It quit again. I thought about pulling the battery contact up on the ego c but decided against it because the tank wouldn't fire on any of my batteries and all the rest of my T3S's would. The problem was the bottom pin in the coil base had been pushed in too hard crushing the gasket. I pulled it out a bit and it fires now on all my batteries. I've heard several people say they have pulled their battery pin up but I think the problem is just the coil base bottom pin pushed in too far and the o-ring flattens out. Hope this helps somebody.

Edit: Also before I found the problem, I discovered that there was an extra gasket left from another coil on the top of the base. I thought this was the problem but I still had to pull the bottom pin out a bit to make it fire. The extra gasket on top was probably why I overtightened the tank to start with