Let's start Looking for Alternatives to SS Mesh

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gdeal

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I didn't get it that hot. I experimented with it by torching a short piece to cherry red. It did stiffen up quite a bit.

Did it start to crumble or start shedding material?

I may have over torched mine, but it really was surprising to me how much material was coming off twisting it lightly between two fingers. I used a small pen-type butane torch so I didnt think mine got that hot either. Is there another technique to prep with this stuff?
 

gdeal

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Mine did not crumble or start shedding. I used a full fledge torch on mine and got it "red" hot.

I must be doing something wrong. :confused: I torched it hot (what ever a butane torch can reach in degrees), but it went to pure white. After, I noticed some fibers coming off, so I started rolling it between my fingers and this is what came off. The picture is magnified significantly, so it looks more than what it is. If I kept rolling the whole thing would have broken apart. Maybe I need to get it hotter?

 

Boden

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I must be doing something wrong. :confused: I torched it hot (what ever a butane torch can reach in degrees), but it went to pure white. After, I noticed some fibers coming off, so I started rolling it between my fingers and this is what came off. The picture is magnified significantly, so it looks more than what it is. If I kept rolling the whole thing would have broken apart. Maybe I need to get it hotter?


I see in the image name you are using nextel XC 1/16" I suspect that Paulette is using XS
 

Boden

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The XC is Nextel 312; the heat treating to 1652F in a kiln that SNGvapor must have done is described on page 2 here: http://www.3m.com/market/industrial/ceramics/pdfs/heat_clean_treat_instructions.pdf

from SNGvapor: "This wick is pre-treated by SnG Vapor with heat. We recommend a small dry-burn after wrapping to remove any latent skin oils present from processing, but we have heated this wick to 1600 deg to remove contaminants."

Unless you have a kiln It would be impossible to do this at home.
 
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Paulette

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Here is all I can say to help about this ---

When using the stuff, it should be handled as little as possible. Wetting the wick with PG or VG reduces fraying some extent.

The higher silica or Nextel is heated, the more brittle it gets. Nextel does have a high melting point, higher than a propane torch flame, but it still gets more brittle when treated with one.


I hope it helps!
 

For.The.Win.Bob

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This is the first I've heard about any danger to using ss mesh. I gave up silica when I kept reading about the alleged dangers and went to cotton. I'm right in the middle of the learning curve with gennys and don't want to have to give them up!

I also use the drunker rba with cotton, wicks much better than mesh and has the same intense flavor. It's only $15 so many will turn up their noses at it but it's a sturdy little guy and works great. And no, cotton doesn't work too well with gennys.. I tried it.

I just "Rewicked" my drunker... 32ga kanthan and cotton wick (peaches and cream from Walmart)
For me the cotton is off tasting. I have smoked about a tank of juice through it and still tastes odd.

I'm running with a 2.4ohm coil on it wicks boiled 2x at 30min each. Any suggestions?
 

donnah

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I just "Rewicked" my drunker... 32ga kanthan and cotton wick (peaches and cream from Walmart)
For me the cotton is off tasting. I have smoked about a tank of juice through it and still tastes odd.

I'm running with a 2.4ohm coil on it wicks boiled 2x at 30min each. Any suggestions?

I haven't used my drunker in months.. too much hassle getting those wicks down the wick holes. But instead of the yarn, try cotton from plain ole cotton balls. I've recently gotten into micro coils with cotton and really like them. I'm using them in all my devices, even genesis rbas. So disregard my above statement... yes, cotton DOES work in genesis rbas! at least when using a micro coil.

A cotton ball will roll out flat and it's easy to tear off strips to twist into wicks. wrap your coil around something like a drill bit or a straightened paper clip, install it and then twist the cotton strip tight enough to thread through the coil.. then after it's in the coil, untwist it. Soak it good before heating the coil. When you're ready for another wick, just pull the wick out, do a few dry burns to clean the coil, thread a new strip of cotton through the wick and you're good to go till the next rewicking.

With the drunker... you don't really even have to thread the wicks down into the tank. Just kinda wrap them around on the deck, over the holes and the tilting action of normal vaping should be enough to feed the wicks from juice coming up through the holes. If you feel they're getting dry, just tilt the device to get juice up to the wick tails.

If you're getting an "off" taste, it may just be the yarn you're using. Try cotton balls, you can boil them and let them dry if you want.
 
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Koman

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Here is all I can say to help about this ---

When using the stuff, it should be handled as little as possible. Wetting the wick with PG or VG reduces fraying some extent.

The higher silica or Nextel is heated, the more brittle it gets. Nextel does have a high melting point, higher than a propane torch flame, but it still gets more brittle when treated with one.


I hope it helps!
Thank you for noting that. It helps!
 

Rapture

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What we need is a metallurgist to weigh in on this.

i called one. he said that even at normal melting point stainless steel would not give off chromium 6. he said there needs to something else in play like a strong corrosive agent. example is flux in welding. or chromic acid in chrome plating.

so why am i reading that forging, grinding, or oxy cutting could be risky. I think because the are making the hot stainless unstable by hammering or grinding or using excessive force when its hot. Im new to the subject so thats just some thought.

I would ultimately think that in order to have a risk of chromium vi there would be some sort of proof in the wick after vaping. breakage, bonding, melting, corrosion. not just a black film that can be created with a lighter. all my wicks look fine after using and unrolling. there black but they look stable.
 

Rapture

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Good Afternoon Amanda,

This is the first time that I have heard of this issue, so this in my initial response.

All of our mesh wicking materials are made from 316L stainless steel, which is the highest grade available. I have copied a link to an impartial data sheet on this metal below:

Stainless Steel - Grade 316 - Properties, Fabrication and Applications

We are also members of the British Stainless Steel Association (BSSA) British Stainless Steel Association

Stainless steel SS316L is stabilised with molybdenum (as you can see in the data sheet) which inhibits inter granular corrosion. This means that there is no contamination whatsoever in the wire from which the mesh is woven. The only possible contamination could be on the surface resulting from the manufacturing process, i.e drawing and weaving of the wire. This would have minimal effect and should burn off immediately. However if there was an issue, an additional process of ultra sonic cleaning would completely clean the surface.

Our 316L grade mesh is used for off-shore protection, with the express purpose of withstanding high temperatures, and extremely hazardous operating conditions. We also supply 316L stainless steel for medical use and have never had any issues.

As an ISO:9001 accredited company, all of our materials are traceable back to cast and if necessary we can supply certification to confirm the actual analysis of the material purchased.

I have had a quick look at the posts on the forum, and can only suggest that SS316L, as it is used in the medical and food industries expressly for its sanitary qualities, has to be the best possible option.

I would suggest that all potential users of stainless steel mesh for wicking ensure that they purchase 316 or 316L grade from a reputable source.

I hope this helps you to resolve your concern.

We’re always very happy to have an open dialogue with our customers, so please let me know if I can be of any further assistance with this matter.

Kind Regards

Chris Platt
General Manager
The Mesh Company Ltd

Well this is cool and all but what about chromium 6. what temps and environments are risky. besides obviously welding. do the coils get hot enought to produce chromium 6 in contact with the mesh or rope on a dry burn. does a butane torch get hot enough.
 

Rapture

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yes i agree with the first paragraph. Mesh just sucks as a wick period. its AMAZING as a capillary actioin wicking system but it has a huge draw back of being conductive. I know its possible to get it working and it works well but you have to fiddle with it forever, burn it with the hot coils, smoke or fumes come off the mesh. then you get a perfect setup and sit down to play a video game with your nice working genesis with a smile on your face and it gets a short or a hotspot. im just not into the constant babying of the mesh. If i knew it was 100% safe I would probably tray and master the material. but I dont so its not worth it to me.

On another note. I was about to sell my aga t2 and right before I tried one last thing. I took my 3/32 ss rope and wrappped a fat section of cotton at the top coil area. I was using individual cheese cloth string. There was no rope visible. Wrapped a 3/4 of 28 gauge and it read .8 ohm. I had my doubts but this thing is rockin man. The rope wicks so well it keeps that cotton wet far better than mesh. I am on my 3rd tank and let me say the cotton still looks white. I am using a clear juice though. but the point is that it doesnt burn. thats why i tried it with a clear juice first. I do tip a little and only take like three hits at a time. I havent actually tried purposely running it dry YET. Its working too good. The best part about it is that it tastes amazing. And I am sure the rope will be in perfect condition afterwards which means I can boil and re-use. It took about a half a tank to really get it going. Im doing lung inhales and blowing huge thick milky clouds. I actually love my aga t2 now and im so glad i tried this. the rope does the wicking and the cotton does the soaking. i keep my fill hole open. I feel almost 100 percent safe in vaping with this system. I will never get a metalic taste or ever get the cotton to transfer enough heat to the rope to be of any concern of chromium 6. Basically i feel as if i have a cotton wicked dripper with a tank. Cotton is cheap. rope is cheap. wire is cheap. I finally feel better after 2 weeks of research, worry, and frustration.

as far as the ecowool and ss mesh on the aga t2. I tried it. 2mm is what i used. it frays like crazy. it works. its hard to get over the mesh. but i wasnt to keen on it so it didnt continue. I just dont like silica type material. dont get me wrong for silica lovers i think ecowool is great. it seemed to not taste as good or work as well as the cotton on top. maybe it was user error on my part, i dont know. I can tell you one this though anything on top of the mesh is better than mesh lol.

Now im actually thinking of getting a magoo (ithaka clone) and trying a cotton yarn build. those look really nice.
 
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