Let's Talk Hardware

Status
Not open for further replies.

Voltron

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 25, 2011
1,487
2,569
San Juan, PR
I'd stick with the MVP2 until you're ready to get a mod with replaceable batteries , the MVP2 is kinda in a class all by itself .

I was hoping to find something a bit less bulky, but I guess I'll buy a couple of more MVP's then. Do you know where I can find the best deal?

Edit- Just saw it on 101vape for $39.99. I don't think I'll find a better price than that.
 
Last edited:

rdsok

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
16,213
72,567
Norman, Ok
I was hoping to find something a bit less bulky, but I guess I'll buy a couple of more MVP's then. Do you know where I can find the best deal?

Edit- Just saw it on 101vape for $39.99. I don't think I'll find a better price than that.

Just to point something out... For the price of a couple of the MVP's you mentioned.... You could get one of the DNA 20/30 clone Mods. Of course it would also require that you purchase some batteries ( like the Sony VTC4 or VTC5 series batteries ) and a good charger like the Xtar's or Efest's

The higher wattage output mods also have their own limitations... sort of in reverse of the MVP class and similar... They don't go down lower than 7 watts because they can only boost the output, not "buck" it ( reduce ).

They also have amperage limitations ( as do all of them including the MVP class )... but they are seldom mentioned in documentation. This limitation will not allow you to use both the lower ohm coils ( like sub-ohm ) and higher wattage outputs because it would then exceed the amperage limits the device is capable of. With the popularity of mech mods and sub-ohms and the mindset that has brought... it seems bad but it really isn't. Mech mods require the sub-ohms to reach the wattage they desire... a high powered AVP simply turns the wattage up on higher ohm coils which also have a larger surface area ( a good thing ) to get to the same wattage output the sub-ohmers are using.
 

Bronze

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 19, 2012
40,240
188,045
You know, one of the features I kind of poo pood on the Provari P3 has kind of piqued my interest lately. I hope I did not misunderstand what Todd was saying. I think he called it a "boost" function? Not sure. But what I could gather is it was a feature you turn on and adjust so that when you first hit the fire button it will give you a shot of momentary extra power so your coil gets up to temperature quicker. I can see where I would like this feature. While I like 28 gauge wire because it puts me in that 1.5 ohm range I like, I actually use 30 gauge because the 28 takes too long to heat up. I'm thinking if this "boost" feature is what I think it is, that might allow me (and others) who complain about slow heat ups with thicker wire to solve that problem. Does anyone know if this feature is available on the DNA's (or any other regulated device)?
 

Bunnykiller

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 17, 2013
17,431
77,275
New Orleans La.
You know, one of the features I kind of poo pood on the Provari P3 has kind of piqued my interest lately. I hope I did not misunderstand what Todd was saying. I think he called it a "boost" function? Not sure. But what I could gather is it was a feature you turn on and adjust so that when you first hit the fire button it will give you a shot of momentary extra power so your coil gets up to temperature quicker. I can see where I would like this feature. While I like 28 gauge wire because it puts me in that 1.5 ohm range I like, I actually use 30 gauge because the 28 takes too long to heat up. I'm thinking if this "boost" feature is what I think it is, that might allow me (and others) who complain about slow heat ups with thicker wire to solve that problem. Does anyone know if this feature is available on the DNA's (or any other regulated device)?

I think the Segilie chip has it.... I do remember hearing something about some chipped mod having that goodie in it...
 

rdsok

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
16,213
72,567
Norman, Ok
The Kangside ( KSD ) 30... aka Vamo 30w

As a move up from the older Vamo v5... this is definitely an improvement but as a DNA 30 clone it still leaves much to be desired. I'm still uncertain if I'd say the extra $10 that it costs over the v5 is worth it in the long run. The 20w version at only $5 more would certainly be though. Perhaps for some, since it costs $20-$25 than the other lower cost DNA 30 clones... it still may be worth it.

It's biggest flaw is at some point between 1.9Ω and 2.3Ω ( the two coils I tested with ) and lower... it is no longer able to boost past 20w. At 2.3Ω and up to it's max at 3.0Ω it can go all the way up to 30w. However, I didn't have my newer higher amp batteries either so there may be some additional gained once those come in.

Everything else about the mod is on the plus side for me. The build quality and threading is very good. Threads very smooth and they used a much heavier grade of stainless steel. Empty this one weighs in at a whopping 178g... the v5 was only 122g. I suspect you can almost drive over this one with your car and not damage it much. Of course while I like that... I'm sure some may not care for the added weight.

The display is also improved in most areas... you can now see battery level ( 4 segment display instead of voltage readout ), voltage and resistance readouts as well as the wattage shown all on the screen at one time. Adjusting the wattage is a simple two button ( one up one down ) that round robins so you don't have to go through the whole 7-30w to get from top to bottom.

I'm unable to verify this... but the output seems like a DC output instead of the typical PWM flutter you got on the earlier models. I was able to go up to 12.5w on a factory Kanger ProTank single coil head where on the Vamo v5 8.5w was the most I could go to before I started getting a burnt taste on the e-liquid I was testing with.

I'm not a high power vapor... so this isn't a loss for me, it will fit more than what I need now or in the near future, but I think for those wanting to get into the higher power mods... I'd recommend to look elsewhere unless you just need something to get you by for the moment or if you were already looking at the older Vamo's.... get the 20w version.
 

Bronze

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 19, 2012
40,240
188,045
The Kangside ( KSD ) 30... aka Vamo 30w

As a move up from the older Vamo v5... this is definitely an improvement but as a DNA 30 clone it still leaves much to be desired. I'm still uncertain if I'd say the extra $10 that it costs over the v5 is worth it in the long run. The 20w version at only $5 more would certainly be though. Perhaps for some, since it costs $20-$25 than the other lower cost DNA 30 clones... it still may be worth it.

It's biggest flaw is at some point between 1.9Ω and 2.3Ω ( the two coils I tested with ) and lower... it is no longer able to boost past 20w. At 2.3Ω and up to it's max at 3.0Ω it can go all the way up to 30w. However, I didn't have my newer higher amp batteries either so there may be some additional gained once those come in.

Everything else about the mod is on the plus side for me. The build quality and threading is very good. Threads very smooth and they used a much heavier grade of stainless steel. Empty this one weighs in at a whopping 178g... the v5 was only 122g. I suspect you can almost drive over this one with your car and not damage it much. Of course while I like that... I'm sure some may not care for the added weight.

The display is also improved in most areas... you can now see battery level ( 4 segment display instead of voltage readout ), voltage and resistance readouts as well as the wattage shown all on the screen at one time. Adjusting the wattage is a simple two button ( one up one down ) that round robins so you don't have to go through the whole 7-30w to get from top to bottom.

I'm unable to verify this... but the output seems like a DC output instead of the typical PWM flutter you got on the earlier models. I was able to go up to 12.5w on a factory Kanger ProTank single coil head where on the Vamo v5 8.5w was the most I could go to before I started getting a burnt taste on the e-liquid I was testing with.

I'm not a high power vapor... so this isn't a loss for me, it will fit more than what I need now or in the near future, but I think for those wanting to get into the higher power mods... I'd recommend to look elsewhere unless you just need something to get you by for the moment or if you were already looking at the older Vamo's.... get the 20w version.

I think they ditched that PWM a long time ago. Thank God! That was awful. The only way PWM is worthy is if it is run at high hertz levels like Provari does.
 

rdsok

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
16,213
72,567
Norman, Ok
I was recently asked a question I didn't have an answer for. Is there any type of vaping device that utilizes some sort of ceramic bowl, etc., in which no wick is needed and the juice doesn't make contact with coils? You know, like a mini frying pan? Thanks in advance.

Not that I'm aware of or can conceive of either... Ceramic doesn't conduct heat well at all, it's considered an insulator. The Space Shuttle used ceramic tiles for it's heat shield because of that fact. There are atomizers that use ceramic to hold the coils in, but that is all I know of in that direction. Now there is a product ( APV ) in alpha or beta testing ( the last I heard ) that is using induction to heat the coils which I understood is/are basically a stainless steel mesh.
 

Voltron

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 25, 2011
1,487
2,569
San Juan, PR
Not that I'm aware of or can conceive of either... Ceramic doesn't conduct heat well at all, it's considered an insulator. The Space Shuttle used ceramic tiles for it's heat shield because of that fact. There are atomizers that use ceramic to hold the coils in, but that is all I know of in that direction. Now there is a product ( APV ) in alpha or beta testing ( the last I heard ) that is using induction to heat the coils which I understood is/are basically a stainless steel mesh.

Forget I said ceramic. :) So there is something in development that works that way then? The person who asked me is looking for some sort of skillet, so that the juice doesn't make direct contact with the heating element, and can be easily cleaned after. It's just how she thinks vaping equipment should work.
 

retic1959

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
  • Jul 28, 2013
    6,735
    28,858
    New Orleans , Louisiana

    Bunnykiller

    ECF Guru
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Nov 17, 2013
    17,431
    77,275
    New Orleans La.
    Forget I said ceramic. :) So there is something in development that works that way then? The person who asked me is looking for some sort of skillet, so that the juice doesn't make direct contact with the heating element, and can be easily cleaned after. It's just how she thinks vaping equipment should work.

    Im seeing all sorts of issues with a design like that...
    long "heating up" time frame
    long cool down time frame
    lost energy transfer ( secondary transfer) requires a hotter element to heat the "pan" and heat loss to the surrounding air in chamber
    still needs a wick to "hold" the juice, just dont see a "pan" as being spill/tilt proof
    potential issues with airflow
    juice supply consistency
    probably more things to come up too....
     

    rdsok

    ECF Guru
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Mar 17, 2012
    16,213
    72,567
    Norman, Ok
    Forget I said ceramic. :) So there is something in development that works that way then? The person who asked me is looking for some sort of skillet, so that the juice doesn't make direct contact with the heating element, and can be easily cleaned after. It's just how she thinks vaping equipment should work.

    I guess then that you should encourage your friend to get innovative and develop something that works the way they are envisioning it. Cover some of the roadblocks like the ones Bunny mentioned... also mention they can't heat it too much or risk burning the e-liquid.. the goal is to vaporize it, not burn it. Perhaps show them your own coils when you are dry burning so they can see how long the heat up cool down process takes.
     

    rdsok

    ECF Guru
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Mar 17, 2012
    16,213
    72,567
    Norman, Ok
    Bronze Cloupor is using the SX350 chips . Cloupor T5 50 watt "Round 2" - Vapor Tek USA

    I wouldn't be so certain about that... read the info on Vapor Tek site... it claims that the chip is made by Clouper... the SX350 is made by Yihi. I had read the same info on Cloupor's website but I'm unable to find it now.

    In addition... the SX350 in it's 30w mode ( it's upgradeable to 60w now but has gone to 35w, 40w and 50w ) is rated from 5w-30w originally. It has both buck and boost circuits.

    I believe that Tobeca is about to release a ZNA clone using this chipset... Zgripper 36 by Tobeco - Vapor Tek USA

    On that last statement... I'm basing it on the specs that it will use the YiHi SX350 chipset since they match so closely.
     
    Status
    Not open for further replies.

    Users who are viewing this thread