Ob, you could try your luck with the drill bit wound coil combined with the rolling paper trick, or wrap SS with cotton and keep wet. 
lets talk oxidization.
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Ob, you could try your luck with the drill bit wound coil combined with the rolling paper trick, or wrap SS with cotton and keep wet.
ive heard that the drillbit method is actually a cheat. That it does not heat the juice properly.
We did some experiments with just using the SS wick as a dual function, wick and coil, but it takes very high voltage.
I was wondering about a regular mesh and coil. I remember this experiment.
Isn't that the idea by The Vaper by Peter K/isn't he the source of people doing the drill bit coil? I thought I remembered somebody setting up The Vaper by Peter K and talking about how it claimed there was no need to oxidize the wick with that device, because of that process of setting up and running current through the coil before inserting the wick.
I guess what is confusing about that method is that the coil is not really making great contact with the mesh. I would imagine that has to effect the whole system. Why do we even wrap the coil on the mesh if it is unnecessary? That always confused me about that method.
Yeah, I've never really understood it/"bought into" it myself, because it just doesn't quite seem to make sense. I also haven't had much luck with it either. I was just throwing it out there to see what people thought of that device and method; maybe somebody can explain why it works or explain why it, in reality, doesn't make sense. *clears throat loudly* BJ?
EDIT: also entirely possible I've completely misunderstood how The Vaper, for example, is supposed to work
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Yeah, I've never really understood it/"bought into" it myself, because it just doesn't quite seem to make sense. I also haven't had much luck with it either. I was just throwing it out there to see what people thought of that device and method; maybe somebody can explain why it works or explain why it, in reality, doesn't make sense. *clears throat loudly* BJ?
EDIT: also entirely possible I've completely misunderstood how The Vaper, for example, is supposed to work
I think you are correct. It just never made sense to me. Why even have the coils touching at all. It would seem that you would never get hotspots if they did not, but then again, it does not seem like it would heat the juice properly.
In that case it seems like this system would be inherently flawed and someone should come up with a entirely new system.
So it does make sense...
Case in point: I was running 32awg Kanthal on my Orion with #500 mesh. 2/2 coils, 3/3 coils, 3/4 coils... You name it... Hell, I even thought that the *Jackfrost Method* was failing me.......
Until I nudge the kanthal abit, twist the SS wick abit, done. Still no cigarette paper needed. But wasted about 5 minutes of my time (Irrelevant, as I stop smoking 1 year ago!).
With the 29awg Kanthal, all I did was:
1) Wind up a 5/5 coil.
2) Fire for even glow.
3) Get my nick fix.
No nudge, no cigarette paper, no tearing out of hair, and no wondering of "why is this happening?".
Which leads me to believe that "The lower the gauge, the lower the possibility of it creating hotspots."
But that is what I just believed. I didn't understand the theory of why using lower gauge would be better.....
Until the explanation above by Boden and BJ43.
Edit: I always use the "Jackfrost" method. No dripping of juice to burn, no quenching in water.
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Yeah, I've never really understood it/"bought into" it myself, because it just doesn't quite seem to make sense. I also haven't had much luck with it either. I was just throwing it out there to see what people thought of that device and method; maybe somebody can explain why it works or explain why it, in reality, doesn't make sense. *clears throat loudly* BJ?
EDIT: also entirely possible I've completely misunderstood how The Vaper, for example, is supposed to work
The device "The Vaper" Meh. It's just a battery mod.
I'm not sure what it is about the drill bit method that is confusing ya'll. Please expound. I understand why it works and just want to be concise in my explanation.
I just don't understand how it's supposed to do any good as far as avoiding shorts to the wick, and I especially don't understand how doing that could remove the need for oxidizing the wick; which, as I understand it, is what the instructions for setting up The Vaper indicated.
That's a long sentence...
I went looking for the official instructions for "the vaper". I can't find it or them.
I could make a setup with an un-oxidized SS wick but the tolerances would be incredibly small and pointlessly complex for the small return you'd get. I think it's a terrible idea to do this in an unprotected mod.
I use the drillbit technique because it lets me oxidize the coil without the wick in place and then again with the wick. Plus you can get many more wraps evenly spaced by wrapping around the drillbit.
What I do:
First I wrap the coil around the bit (before sliding the bit into the wick hole).
Then I slide the bit into the hole and connect to the negative and positive posts.
Pull the bit out and dry burn the coil three times, two seconds each.
Make a wick that is just smaller than the coil. (It should drag just a little)
Oxidize the end that will touch the coil.
Slide the wick in.
Dry burn it again, adjust for any unevenness with a toothpick.
and off I go.
The DUD is fine. Its what I am using and my first RBA. I don't understand your comment about the wire touching the top cap? I have been leaving extra wire after the connection and just folding it out of the way both on pos and neg. Having no problems, other than the top leg does often require troubleshooting.
That's a long sentence...
I went looking for the official instructions for "the vaper". I can't find it or them.
I could make a setup with an un-oxidized SS wick but the tolerances would be incredibly small and pointlessly complex for the small return you'd get. I think it's a terrible idea to do this in an unprotected mod.
I use the drillbit technique because it lets me oxidize the coil without the wick in place and then again with the wick. Plus you can get many more wraps evenly spaced by wrapping around the drillbit.
What I do:
First I wrap the coil around the bit (before sliding the bit into the wick hole).
Then I slide the bit into the hole and connect to the negative and positive posts.
Pull the bit out and dry burn the coil three times, two seconds each.
Make a wick that is just smaller than the coil. (It should drag just a little)
Oxidize the end that will touch the coil.
Slide the wick in.
Dry burn it again, adjust for any unevenness with a toothpick.
and off I go.
Here's a link to the post on ECF about The Vaper and the Petar K Method for setting up wick/coil.
As far as I can follow, some ppl like to use 36awg, 38awg etc... and most ppl used 32awg wires... The problem starts when they start coiling... It has to be firmly wound up, without cutting into the mesh. Not too loose that it meets air.
So I supposed the "Petar K" method is for eliminate that particular factor? So maybe it makes sense not to over - oxidize the mesh since you are not cutting in your mesh...
*Overthinking mode*
Yeah, I could see that part of it, but the claim is you don't need to oxidize your wick at all. You simply need to take a Bic to it for a few seconds to burn off oils, impurities, etc. Now, I suppose that could work if the idea is the coil is hovering just a hair away from the actual wick since the current isn't likely to jump through the air from the coil to the wick but...
The "Petar K" method did say that to use .25mm nichrome/ Kanthal/ Cekas wire. According to what I see in Tomcatt's explanation in Kanthal differences, .25mm translates to 30awg. So maybe the logic of "lower resistance wires to lower possibility of shorts" comes into play here?
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