need help with SS mesh oxidation problems

[Zasilom]

I have been using my zenesis standard for a while now (it came with alot of pre-oxidized wicks) and i cant put it down, but wanted a backup system in case .... happens lol. I decided to get penelope, turns out i dont really like penelope i prefer the genesis style, so i got a D.I.D, that came with mesh but it was now oxidized, so i read alot and watch some vids but still cant get it to work....getting tons of shorts. I have tried butane torch (Bernzomatic) red hot/quench 3X then saturate with juice and lighter burn 3X, have tried jackfrost method, tried quenching in VG, i have 2 wicks that have been fired and quenched to the point that they are falling apart....still conductive, i tried insulating the wick from the body to eliminate that as a possible area to short, have had minimal success, when i do get it short free...the slightest bump and it shorts again, also tried wrapping the wick with rolling paper before wrapping a coil to build carbon under the coil, again that worked till it got bumped or moved to much then it would short again. ANY help would be great . My only thought was to use propane torch instead of butane.

Also tried adding baking soda to my quench water to help the oxidation occur faster...didn't seem to help.

 

[vsummer1]

Take a cotton ball or qtip, barely draw the mesh across it to grab a few fibers and wrap only where the wick goes on. A thin layer is all you need. Worked for me on a finicky wick.

 

[Zasilom]

I had thought about that but would like to be 100% mesh, i dry burn every flavor change and that would burn the cotton up.

 

[vsummer1]

I had thought about that but would like to be 100% mesh, i dry burn every flavor change and that would burn the cotton up.

Yep it would burn it up. But then dry burning it might burn off the layer you are trying to lay down? Am I missing something here, I don't dry burn mine, ever. Not even between flavor changes, it is so little in that mesh I just suck it up (pun intended). There isn't that much cotton at all really, just enough to keep it from shorting.

 

[Zasilom]

will give it a shot tonight, I dry burn every flavor change 2-3 days to keep wick/coil nice and clean, my wick/coil will last for months before needing to be changed.

 

[Rule62]

It's possible that you have burned and quenched your wicks to the point that they have become brittle. The oxidation layer may be too fragile to use. I stopped quenching a while back. If you torch the wick and let it cool naturally, instead of quenching, it doesn't become as brittle.

 

[britchris]

I oxide with 2 water dips and 4 juice burns never had any conductivity problems on the nova

 

[iamtumus]

i don't quench. i just let it glow red for 20 seconds and and check the wick where i wrap is all even colored.

 

[Zasilom]

just made another wick...no quenching this time, wrapped wick in cigg paper to insulate wick from body and create a layer of carbon under the coil, best wick i have made yet , will see how it does after break in, but so far this one seems to work great . Thanks for the help all...will post back here after it breaks in.

 

[Rlafontaine1971]

It's possible that you have burned and quenched your wicks to the point that they have become brittle. The oxidation layer may be too fragile to use. I stopped quenching a while back. If you torch the wick and let it cool naturally, instead of quenching, it doesn't become as brittle.

Try what Rule62 suggested. I used to have some serious issues with both hot spots and shorts and didnt stop having problems until I stopped quenching and started rolling my wicks solid. I torch the mesh on both sides, roll it solid, torch the top half of the wick again and im good to go. Sometimes I use a drill bit to wrap my coils and sometimes I wrap the wick before I put it in (that's what she said...). I've been using 400 mesh and it's been great, I ordered 500 mesh but havent recieved it yet. All of my liquids are DIY 90% VG 10% PGA and no wicking problems. I over size all of my wick holes to accept larger wicks which not only wick better but makes it easier to get a good solid smooth wick with a better coil because your not deforming the wick if your wire is wrapped too tight. Attach the wire firmly to the negative post and just try to catch the wire with the positve post. Hope this helps, gl.

PS. The Penny rocks!!! Don't give up on it. I have several geneis types (Did, did clones, cobra, cobra clones,) but still love my Penny...

 

[Zasilom]

Didnt give up on penny, just dont like the nr-r-nr wire...seems cumbersome unless ya get the pre-made ones that are heat fused together... and even with moderate use the whole unit heated up alot....D.I.D seems to as well though....but zen stays nice and cool even chain vapeing.

 

[Rule62]

I've been very gently chucking my wicks in my variable speed drill, and rotating it slowly, as I go back and forth across the wick with my little BernzOmatic torch. It gets the wick heated red evenly, with no burn spots. Then 3 or 4 juice burns, and good to go.

 

[Zasilom]

great idea, never thought to use a drill to rotate. will do that on my next one. Got a few hrs and about 1.5 ml of juice on this wick and i is working well so far , still a lil harsh but that will fade when i gets broke in.