locking the hcigar nemisis clone

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realsis

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Hi friends, I'm having issues locking my nemisis clone. I've fixed the wonky firing pin with a silicone washer now it works beautifully but in 18650 mode with a kick I can't lock the darn thing. When I move the lock ring to lock position it continously fires I know this must be some error on my part, can you help me? Also fire pin will stick on sometimes and I have to unscrwe it. Not sure what I'm doing wrong?? Thanks in advance
 

crxess

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Using a Nemesis:
Set Main tube combination for preferred battery use. 18350/18500/18650 or any combination +Kick
Remove Top Cap
Back out top pin
Thread top device until flush
Tighten top pin to contact Top device(tank/etc)
Install Nemesis Top on tube section
Install Chosen battery
Verify Nemesis Lock ring is on lower section and threaded full up
Install Nemesis switch and tighten to snug against battery - Do not over tighten
To Vape - press switch
To lock - Thread Lock Ring Down to contact switch - Do not over tighten.

A Nemesis switch cannot be pressed or fire if the lock ring is down against the button section.

If the switch is sticking - remove, disassemble and clean all parts. Assemble and check for free movement.
When on mod, with no top device attached, check switch to confirm it is not catching the outer tube.
 

CloudZ

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If you put washer in underneath the firing pin in the switch, it could have raised the top of the pin very close to the top of the insulator. I assume it now has a hair trigger with a miniscule throw. The firing pin should be screwed down tight at all times, and if you want to shorten the throw with a washer it needs to be very thin. The button assembly is going to be a little wobbly when unlocked, but that is just the nature of the design and manufacturing tolerances.

Other than that, follow the procedure crxess posted above.
 

bsoplinger

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I'd guess that it's the silicone washer you used to fix the switch. It's too thick and that's why you're getting auto fire issues.

I know on my clones I saw a posting about using part of a silicone carto cover to reduce the throw. I tried that with a number of covers and they were all too thick. I ended up using a very thin piece of chipboard (called cardboard by most people) from a matchbook to get thin enough shims.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
 

crxess

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:facepalm: Zipped right by the Wonky pin.
Never add anything that would Raise the firing Pin. It is engineered to the correct height.
If loosening is an issue, that is what needle nose pliers are for. Press outer switch assembly down. grip and tighten pin.

Yes they all have some degree of movement. Even supposedly perfect originals will have some degree of movement when unlocked.
 

joecil

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Actually FatDaddyVapes make a silver coated screws to replace the bottom and top adjustment and button screws. Now I don't use the fat top on as I do use a kick2 with mine but love the short throw bottom pin as long as you also use his magnets which don't fire when sitting and not locked.

Now to use the Kick2 with 18350 add the 18500 tube and beauty/kick ring to the bottom then connect on top of your battery followed by the top with atty of your choice adjusted. Now for 18500 just use the 18650 tub arrangement with the kick in the top tube. Now you can put the small kick ring between the 2 tubes or on top really doesn't make much difference. Follow this with the top cap and atty. Last is the 18650 kicked which uses all the tubes. I like the kick2 in the 18500 tube with the kick ring under than on top of the base and 18650 tube connected. You can move the small kick ring between the base and 18650 tube also. Now if any of these setups don't fire properly simply remove the small beauty/kick ring and back out your button. In some cases with flat top batteries you will need a small magnetic battery spacer.
 
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