I thought I'd go ahead and share these:
This is my copper pipe unit with Lowes parts. It "turns on" by pushing on the mouth piece.
Video:
YouTube - Copper E-Cig mod.
I also made one with a flashlight (Magnum?):
Here's the directions and parts list for the brass unit.
(The parts for the black one are similar)
Parts from Lowes:
(1) Brass pipe nipple # A-838
(2) Pipe caps # A-819
From DealExtreme:
(2) CR2 batteries (2 x 3 volts = 6 volt total)
Actually, 6 Volt seems a little high, although I have not "burnt" any attys yet. I plan to try the Ultrafire LC 17670 which is about 4 volts.
From Autozone:
(1) Valve stem extension (I actually used 2 valve stem caps with the ends (caps) shaved off and 1 used valve stem with the rubber part shaved off.
I'm using an RN4081 atty.
(2) springs: not sure exactly what they are from...old flashlight parts I think.
(1) 3/4" (OD) washer with a smallest possible inside hole.
(1) brass coathanger (only need a 1" piece)
Tools:
Dremmel tool
Drill.
Butane flame "thrower".
1- Solder 1 spring to the inside of the bottom cap. I used the butane flame thrower here because a soldering gun won't get the brass hot enough.
2 - Drill a hole in the other cap barely big enough for the valve stem extension. Make sure it is real tight, then "shave" it by hand so the valve stem extension will slide in and out of the hole but will not be loose. (Quite time consuming)
3 - Adjust (shave) 3/4" washer to fit tightly (pressed in) into 1 end of the pipe. Push (press) it in about 1/4".
4 - Solder (flame thrower) other spring onto the top of the washer that you pushed in (in step 3)
5 - Slide a piece of coathanger into the atty connector (valve stem extension)
Screw on the top (atty) assembly with the batteries installed. Do NOT have the end (bottom) cap screwed on. This way there will be no power through the system. However, you do want to keep the batts pushed upwards to. Alternatively you can put a piece of plastic at the bottom of the battery and screw the end cap on. (again, to avoid have power or juice through the system)
Now adjust (cut/shave) the coathanger to the correct length:
Tough to explain...
I push down on the atty/coathanger adaptor until it is all the way down and the coathanger piece touches the positive post of the battery. I then release it. The top of the coathanger must be adjusted (cut/shaved) so it barely (1/2 mm) protrudes outside the atty adaptor (valve stem extension).
Once you have this setup, put a "protector" on the coathanger piece (on the inside) so it can't touch the internal spring or washer. ONLY the end of the coathanger can touch the positive post of the battery (when it is pushed down).
I just used an old piece of 8 guage wire. Cut it to desired/correct length, remove the wiring, and slide in on the coathanger.
That should be all, now test it. Unscew the end cap (batt side), remove the plastic, re-install the end cap.
Now, without an atty installed test it with a voltmeter. The body of "The Copper" is ground, the coathanger piece is positive. You should get 6 volts at the coathanger piece ONLY when you push down on it.
Much of this was trial and error. The toughest part was to get the atty adaptor (valve stem) to slide properly through the top cap. I also had to find a weaker spring. Initially I had to use The Copper with 2 hands. Now, with the weaker spring, I use my mouth to push down on the "switch".
This is my copper pipe unit with Lowes parts. It "turns on" by pushing on the mouth piece.
Video:
YouTube - Copper E-Cig mod.
I also made one with a flashlight (Magnum?):
Here's the directions and parts list for the brass unit.
(The parts for the black one are similar)
Parts from Lowes:
(1) Brass pipe nipple # A-838
(2) Pipe caps # A-819
From DealExtreme:
(2) CR2 batteries (2 x 3 volts = 6 volt total)
Actually, 6 Volt seems a little high, although I have not "burnt" any attys yet. I plan to try the Ultrafire LC 17670 which is about 4 volts.
From Autozone:
(1) Valve stem extension (I actually used 2 valve stem caps with the ends (caps) shaved off and 1 used valve stem with the rubber part shaved off.
I'm using an RN4081 atty.
(2) springs: not sure exactly what they are from...old flashlight parts I think.
(1) 3/4" (OD) washer with a smallest possible inside hole.
(1) brass coathanger (only need a 1" piece)
Tools:
Dremmel tool
Drill.
Butane flame "thrower".
1- Solder 1 spring to the inside of the bottom cap. I used the butane flame thrower here because a soldering gun won't get the brass hot enough.
2 - Drill a hole in the other cap barely big enough for the valve stem extension. Make sure it is real tight, then "shave" it by hand so the valve stem extension will slide in and out of the hole but will not be loose. (Quite time consuming)
3 - Adjust (shave) 3/4" washer to fit tightly (pressed in) into 1 end of the pipe. Push (press) it in about 1/4".
4 - Solder (flame thrower) other spring onto the top of the washer that you pushed in (in step 3)
5 - Slide a piece of coathanger into the atty connector (valve stem extension)
Screw on the top (atty) assembly with the batteries installed. Do NOT have the end (bottom) cap screwed on. This way there will be no power through the system. However, you do want to keep the batts pushed upwards to. Alternatively you can put a piece of plastic at the bottom of the battery and screw the end cap on. (again, to avoid have power or juice through the system)
Now adjust (cut/shave) the coathanger to the correct length:
Tough to explain...
I push down on the atty/coathanger adaptor until it is all the way down and the coathanger piece touches the positive post of the battery. I then release it. The top of the coathanger must be adjusted (cut/shaved) so it barely (1/2 mm) protrudes outside the atty adaptor (valve stem extension).
Once you have this setup, put a "protector" on the coathanger piece (on the inside) so it can't touch the internal spring or washer. ONLY the end of the coathanger can touch the positive post of the battery (when it is pushed down).
I just used an old piece of 8 guage wire. Cut it to desired/correct length, remove the wiring, and slide in on the coathanger.
That should be all, now test it. Unscew the end cap (batt side), remove the plastic, re-install the end cap.
Now, without an atty installed test it with a voltmeter. The body of "The Copper" is ground, the coathanger piece is positive. You should get 6 volts at the coathanger piece ONLY when you push down on it.
Much of this was trial and error. The toughest part was to get the atty adaptor (valve stem) to slide properly through the top cap. I also had to find a weaker spring. Initially I had to use The Copper with 2 hands. Now, with the weaker spring, I use my mouth to push down on the "switch".
