What he had was a dripper on the nemesis clone. He explained how to redo the coils and the wick. Didn't seem like a lot to do. Also thought about putting my carto on the clone and seeing how that worked. Would that require all the learning?
Looking at my first mechanical mod.
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The best way to learn is to keep experimenting. Get a couple rebuildables and a couple different gauges of kanthal, watch some tutorials and have some fun. Learn some basic safety and get an ohm meter. The nice thing about RBA's that you're not stuck with anything. You can keep fine tuning.
YouTube. There are dozens of great tutorials about battery safety and rebuilding.
All of this is getting very confusing. I thought I new what I was doing now it seems as if I know nothing lol
You were on the right track.
Grab an H-Cigar Nemesis, an I-GO W and drip tip, two 30amp Sony 18650s with a charger, an ohm checker, cotton from CVS and 100ft of 28gauge kanthal from Temco/EBay.
Wrap coils in the 1.0+ ohm range starting off, ALWAYS test coil on ohm checker before firing on mechanical.
Other than the good batteries which you need, you would be hard pressed to find a less expensive path.
Don't go below 1 ohm starting off, read about battery safety and ohms law.
All the products listed above are just examples, get what you want but I think what I posted would be a great starter setup.
Grab an H-Cigar Nemesis, an I-GO W and drip tip, two 30amp Sony 18650s with a charger, an ohm checker, cotton from CVS and 100ft of 28gauge kanthal from Temco/EBay.
Wrap coils in the 1.0+ ohm range starting off, ALWAYS test coil on ohm checker before firing on mechanical.
Other than the good batteries which you need, you would be hard pressed to find a less expensive path.
Don't go below 1 ohm starting off, read about battery safety and ohms law.
All the products listed above are just examples, get what you want but I think what I posted would be a great starter setup.
The main thing is that there is no electronics in a mech, so there is also no safety features. You need to make sure you have good quality batterys that are rated for the current you are trying to draw from them, this is verry important as these batteys can catch fire if you push them to far past their limits. You also need to have a way to check the voltage of the battery to make sure you don't run it to low which can lead to problems. It is not really that hard to understand, just a lot of little stuff you need to keep in mind.
1.5-2.0 ohm cartos would work well on a mech. Don't let all this scare you off just make sure you know what you are doing first. Safety first.....
lets not forget warning about shorts...
look we may or may not seem like we are trying to scare you, but its not because we dont want you to do it, we want you to do it carefully...
the huge red flag that came up for me was when i heard you mention that you were interested was you didnt honestly seem to know much of anything about what you were looking at...
that honestly scared me... i am not telling you dont do anything... but be safe... go get a protank 2, get a regulated apv... rebuild kanger heads, get used to that... then venture elsewhere...
thats not a must, thats not necessary, but it means you get some experience and are less likely to have an uh oh moment...
idk just be safe... be knowledgeable... dont rush yourself either...
had i gotten my reo day one i wouldn't appreciate it as much as i do now...
look we may or may not seem like we are trying to scare you, but its not because we dont want you to do it, we want you to do it carefully...
the huge red flag that came up for me was when i heard you mention that you were interested was you didnt honestly seem to know much of anything about what you were looking at...
that honestly scared me... i am not telling you dont do anything... but be safe... go get a protank 2, get a regulated apv... rebuild kanger heads, get used to that... then venture elsewhere...
thats not a must, thats not necessary, but it means you get some experience and are less likely to have an uh oh moment...
idk just be safe... be knowledgeable... dont rush yourself either...
had i gotten my reo day one i wouldn't appreciate it as much as i do now...
I too was semi-clueless when I first got into mechs (just a few weeks ago). However, BEFORE I ever even attempted to wrap a coil, I watched 9570356767305248 Youtube videos on how to make Microcoils and did a LOT of research on what batteries I should be using. I ended up going with the Sony VTC4 as it seems to be the most "beefy" 18650 battery; perfect for mechs...
As mentioned above, I aimed for 1.0+ Ohms at first, just to play it safe. My first coil was a 1.2 Ohm Micro-coil with 28ga. Kanthal on an Omega clone. I then wrapped a dual coil setup which came out to 0.8 Ohms....It actually wasn't too hard, but I could see how it might be a bit confusing if you don't do enough research....I really think you should watch some videos about wrapping coils and use your "Google-fu" to find out about battery safety and mech mods in general....Don't worry, you'll get it!!
As mentioned above, I aimed for 1.0+ Ohms at first, just to play it safe. My first coil was a 1.2 Ohm Micro-coil with 28ga. Kanthal on an Omega clone. I then wrapped a dual coil setup which came out to 0.8 Ohms....It actually wasn't too hard, but I could see how it might be a bit confusing if you don't do enough research....I really think you should watch some videos about wrapping coils and use your "Google-fu" to find out about battery safety and mech mods in general....Don't worry, you'll get it!!
Looks like I have lots of reading ahead of me. Besides the link above are there any must reads? Good thing I sit in the passenger seat of a truck for at least 3 hours a day. Get paid to learn a hobby
Get the nemmy hciga clone from 101vape. Actually I might have gotten the last stainless steel nemmy from them when I ordered last might but they still have the one with gold rings
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There is no point spending money on APVs and clearomizers when interest is in mechanicals...jeez.
Tried looking at the links but none of those on battery info are working? Any suggestions?
I went with the Sony VTC4 for mech mod vaping...it's an 18650 2000 mAh battery with a 30 Amp max.....should be able to pretty much take anything you throw at it for the most part (including sub-ohming, should you choose to go down that path)....seems like a great option for mech mods I think (I could be wrong, but I did a lot of research and it seems like a good option)....
If your pulling more than 30 amps your asking for trouble.
Who is vaping a coil that is 0.14- ohms?
Who is vaping a coil that is 0.14- ohms?
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Jus saying. Having that option of 35amp is nice considering its the same price
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I trust Sony quite a bit more than Efest, the extra headroom would be nice though.
Hmmm...
I certainly can't stop a new user from doing something, so just lead them down the right path right?
In summary:
You want an unprotected IMR Battery.
Why? Because IMR is a safer chemistry that will not likely vent and allows for higher maximum discharge. Most thermal runaway events with an IMR I've seen videos of, or read about, had to be intentionally brought into that state, and even then the batteries just get dangerously hot.
I would strongly suggest, nah I flat out implore you, to buy one of these two batteries:
Sony US18650VTC4
AW IMR 18650 3.7v 1600mAh - Batteries
In a Nemesis the flattop Sony's will work fine. However, it may be wiser to own the AW button tops. Don't be fooled by the lower mAh (how long a battery lasts) rating of the AW 1600mAh. In a mech, we only care about maximum discharge rate and how long a battery can sustain an output voltage above 3.6-3.7 volts, not it's lifespan until completely drained. The AW 1600mAh's last longer above 3.6V than any other IMR I've seen charted, despite being rated for a lesser overall lifespan. I haven't seen the Sony's charted, but I would imagine they follow the trend of higher mAh draining quicker at first, but lasting longer down until completely drained. (great for a regulated PV, not so great for usable straight battery voltage on a mech)
People always tend to pick up the AW 2000mAh over the 1600mAh for their mech's thinking that they are getting longer run times from the battery, when if fact they are not.
In a mech, do not fall into the "better price, longer lasting" mentality concerning batteries. That kind of battery shopping is completely out the door, and best saved for regulated devices. You want safe chemistry, capable maximum discharge rate, and lowest internal resistance, price be dammed. Avoid Ebay and discount China vendors for batteries at all costs. Batteries are a one time purchase that will last you over a year, so don't skimp on it and chance it. In fact, those links I provided are from a VERY trustworthy and well regarded vendor. Just order those and you can't go wrong, ya dig?
You'll need a 510 Ohm meter AND (or just) a multi-meter.
The little black box ones with built in 510 connections are great and easy to use for e-cig users. You can find them around a lot now. Here's one that is usually well in stock:
510 Ohm Meter Model 2 - Kidney Puncher
You have to know the resistance of the coils you wrap for a multitude of reasons.
Firstly, the resistance you wrap will affect the type and quality of vape your going to get. A whole book can be written on this... Experimenting with different builds, of varying resistances, is what makes RDA's so damn great.
Secondly, and most importantly, you need to know if your RDA build contains a short, and you need to know if the current you are drawing from a battery is within that batteries limits.
Knowing Ohm's law in a out is all fine and dandy, but in reality if you can understand plugging numbers into a simple online calculator you'll be fine. Here is a link to a simple to use one: vapecalc.com
After you build a coil, and measure out it's resistance, simply plug in the numbers.
A freshly charged battery will output 4.2V.
In the screenshot above: If I built a 1.2Ω coil, and plug in 1.2 for the resistance and 4.2 for the volts, then hit "calculate watts & amps," I get a current draw of 3.5 amps; WELL within the limits of the batteries I suggested you pick up.
You'll need a multi-meter to check the voltage on your batteries. You can essentially skip the "black box 510 Ohm meter" because you can measure the resistance of your RDA's with the multi-meter in the first place; but it is a bit of a pain. (like holding chop-sticks) I have one of the black boxes because it is convenient, and they also happen to make great platforms (surface to hold your RDA in place) for building on. You absolutely need the ability to measure and check the voltage of your batteries. The 510 black box is great and convenient, the multi-meter is a must.
Here's a really affordable multi-meter:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html
You'll need Kanthal or NiChrome resistance wire for the coils.
28g or 30g is recommended for general purposes on RDA's. If your rebuilding smaller RBA heads like those found in the ProTank, you might want a thinner wire like 32g. The higher the gauge # the thinner the wire is... Again, a whole book could be written. Experimenting is part of the charm.
Kanthal Wire 30 Gauge RW0107 - 100 FT 0.39oz Series A-1 Resistance AWG
Kanthal Wire 28 Gauge RW0118 - 100 Ft 0.61oz Series A-1 Resistance AWG
You'll need some wick.
There's silica, cotton, hemp, ceramic, steel mesh... Benefits of wicking verses variance of taste among all of 'em. I use plain ol' sterile CVS cotton. $2.99 for a lifetime supply...
You'll need some of those "pincher tool things"
Tweezers, dude. You'll need some tweezers.
Youtube is your friend.
There are tons of videos on youtube. I like to link Super_X_Drifter's stuff because I think he does a pretty good job with his micro coil video:
If you just make sure you are following sound advice and are being careful, you'll be fine. I think it's great that your after RDA's at an early stage, they really do offer the best and most customizable vape possible if your willing to follow the basic principles.
Just promise me you'll keep asking questions like you are right now. Don't run off and buy stuff without knowing and asking here at ECF first.
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