Looking for first regulated mod...also battery talk

[Higanbana]

1) Checking out eBay for the cheap $30-ish Vamo V5s. Should I not go this route to avoid the bad thread issues on certain clones?

2) I'm leaning towards RTD Vapor for picking up a couple AW IRM 18650 1600mAh button tops. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think you need flat tops for Vamos...?

3) Also open to picking up a sigelei Zmax mini V3. Will this require button top or flat top 18630s?

4) Any recommendations for an entry-level rda? I'm thinking a sufficient, cheap 2- or 3-post. I have silica and 30-gauge Kanthal on the way. Japanese cotton and a Nitecore once I figure out the battery situation.

In just a few days I've learned a lot on this forum about mods, batteries, and RBAs. The really confusing part for me is button top vs. flat top. Is it just one of those things where you should buy both if you're willing to see how deep the rabbit hole goes? The floor is also open for any cheap VV/VW mod recommendations (< $50). I'm not ready for unregulated mods yet.

Thanks in advance.

 

[mikek1]

The zmax mini uses 18350's which have a fairly short battery life since they are around 700-800mah. The vamo is a bit more flexible, you can use an 18650, 1 18350 or 2 18350's. From what I remember you should get slightly better performance across available wattages using 2 18350's. I don't think it makes much of a difference though so I would pick up 2 18650's if you decide to go with the vamo. AW IMR batteries are good but I would go with Sony vtc5's. They have a higher capacity and higher continuous discharge which will be important if you ever upgrade to a mech mod and want to build a sub-ohm coil. Here is a battery chart I keep bookmarked that shows a bunch of different batteries and their specs https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...V2c0dSc01mUkl6RXNnM2o2R1E&usp=drive_web#gid=0

Since you're looking at 15 watt mods, I would just go with a mvp 2 for $35-$40. You pretty much get everything you need to get going in one package and the 4 watt difference in power won't be too noticeable. Also, I wouldn't go with a rda on these lower powered mods, you will probably get better performance with a Nautilus or Aerotank. Save the rda for when you upgrade to a mech mod or a higher power reg. mod.

 

[K_Tech]

1) Checking out eBay for the cheap $30-ish Vamo V5s. Should I not go this route to avoid the bad thread issues on certain clones?

I'm not trying to steer you away from a Vamo, some folks have had theirs for quite some time without issue, but there are a lot of vapers that have had trouble with stripped threads on their 510 connections, myself included. I could have sent mine back and exchanged it for another one, but I bought a replacement top cap that was machined from stainless steel and it's been going strong since then.

It's a more expensive option, but the Sigelei Zmax seems to be somewhat better when it comes to durability.

2) I'm leaning towards RTD Vapor for picking up a couple AW IRM 18650 1600mAh button tops. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think you need flat tops for Vamos...?

I've used both button and flat-top batteries in mine without issue.

3) Also open to picking up a Sigelei Zmax mini V3. Will this require button top or flat top 18630s?

Either or.

4) Any recommendations for an entry-level RDA? I'm thinking a sufficient, cheap 2- or 3-post. I have silica and 30-gauge Kanthal on the way. Japanese cotton and a Nitecore once I figure out the battery situation.

Cheap? Take a look at the Igo line of RDA's, or perhaps a clone.

Right now Vaporbeast has a deal on the Igo-W for $9.99. It's not the best or the fanciest, but it provides a good starting point.

In just a few days I've learned a lot on this forum about mods, batteries, and RBAs. The really confusing part for me is button top vs. flat top. Is it just one of those things where you should buy both if you're willing to see how deep the rabbit hole goes? The floor is also open for any cheap VV/VW mod recommendations (< $50). I'm not ready for unregulated mods yet.

Thanks in advance.

Some mods are picky about which battery you need, but I don't know of any comprehensive list of which goes where. I have a Smok Zmax, a Vamo, an SVD, and a Provari. All but the Provari take either button or flat tops.

For a cheap VV/VW mod, I think it's hard to beat the MVP2. About $40, and it's a solid performer.

You can pick up other regulated mods on line (I think the Vamo is still under $40) but you still need at least one battery and a charger, and that will tack on about another $30 - $40 to the price.

 

[Higanbana]

The zmax mini uses 18350's which have a fairly short battery life since they are around 700-800mah. The vamo is a bit more flexible, you can use an 18650, 1 18350 or 2 18350's. From what I remember you should get slightly better performance across available wattages using 2 18350's. I don't think it makes much of a difference though so I would pick up 2 18650's if you decide to go with the vamo. AW IMR batteries are good but I would go with Sony vtc5's. They have a higher capacity and higher continuous discharge which will be important if you ever upgrade to a mech mod and want to build a sub-ohm coil. Here is a battery chart I keep bookmarked that shows a bunch of different batteries and their specs https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...V2c0dSc01mUkl6RXNnM2o2R1E&usp=drive_web#gid=0

Since you're looking at 15 watt mods, I would just go with a mvp 2 for $35-$40. You pretty much get everything you need to get going in one package and the 4 watt difference in power won't be too noticeable. Also, I wouldn't go with a rda on these lower powered mods, you will probably get better performance with a Nautilus or Aerotank. Save the rda for when you upgrade to a mech mod or a higher power reg. mod.

First off that's my bad, I meant 18350. Second, I'm not interested in stacking at all. I'm perfectly fine with buying different lengths before stacking. Third, sub-ohm is not even on my radar. I need to build my own Kanger coils and become comfortable with regulated mods before I even think about that. Someday, maybe. But I'm ok with going with AW IMRs and getting "Sony" or something more appropriate down the road.

In regard to the MVP2, should I worry about clones? Because there are Innokin MVP2s going for $50-$60 plus. Speaking of Aerotanks, I have a bone to pick. I'm puffing on one now and have two. Both of them have disconnected from their press-on fittings below the airflow regulator thingy portion. It's actually a topic I haven't yet come across on this forum and I'm not sure how to deal with it yet. Thanks for your insight on RDAs.

 

[The Ocelot]

I use AW IMR button top batteries from RTD in my Vamo and Sigelei. Clones of some things are fine, but you really don't want to skimp when it comes to batteries and chargers.

Personally, I can't recommend the Vamo. I have babied mine from the beginning and it's performance is still iffy. The only thing I use it for is to check the battery levels of 18650s; sometimes it turns on and sometimes I have to shake it a few times. It has never left the house or been dropped, so even for $40 I find it unacceptable.

I agree with K_Tech that the Sigelei Zmax is more durable for a mod in the same class, but the MVP gets higher marks.

I prefer tank-style RBAs, since I find them more convenient. The Kayfun/Russian 91% are easy to build for your first try and produces nice vapor for a simple device. One of mine is a Kayfun "Black Edition" clone from Custom Mod Creations and I've been quite happy with it.

 

[The Ocelot]

First off that's my bad, I meant 18350. Second, I'm not interested in stacking at all. I'm perfectly fine with buying different lengths before stacking. Third, sub-ohm is not even on my radar. I need to build my own Kanger coils and become comfortable with regulated mods before I even think about that. Someday, maybe. But I'm ok with going with AW IMRs and getting "Sony" or something more appropriate down the road.

In regard to the MVP2, should I worry about clones? Because there are Innokin MVP2s going for $50-$60 plus. Speaking of Aerotanks, I have a bone to pick. I'm puffing on one now and have two. Both of them have disconnected from their press-on fittings below the airflow regulator thingy portion. It's actually a topic I haven't yet come across on this forum and I'm not sure how to deal with it yet. Thanks for your insight on RDAs.

These are authentic. Innokin iTaste MVP V2.0 - 101 Vape

ETA: Honestly, I find rebuilding Kanger coils a PITA. I have a jar of used ones in case I get snowed in this winter and need something to do, but when you can buy the single coil heads for under $1.00 each, rebuilding them isn't worth my time. I think Kayfun coils are much more fun to build.

 

[mikek1]

If you do decide to go with a rda on the mvp, try to keep the coil at 1.6-1.8 ohms.

 

[Higanbana]

I'm not trying to steer you away from a Vamo, some folks have had theirs for quite some time without issue, but there are a lot of vapers that have had trouble with stripped threads on their 510 connections, myself included. I could have sent mine back and exchanged it for another one, but I bought a replacement top cap that was machined from stainless steel and it's been going strong since then.

I'm all for DIY stuff but I'm not about to tap new threads on a cheap mod. I'd rather buy a decent Vamo, but for all the talk about stripped threads and great Vamos here, I have yet to find someone linking a source for up-to-date well reviewed Vamo V5s. Maybe I haven't looked hard enough yet.

It's a more expensive option, but the Sigelei Zmax seems to be somewhat better when it comes to durability.
I've used both button and flat-top batteries in mine without issue.
Either or.

Seems like button/flat-top isn't a big a deal as I thought?

Cheap? Take a look at the Igo line of RDA's, or perhaps a clone.
Right now Vaporbeast has a deal on the Igo-W for $9.99. It's not the best or the fanciest, but it provides a good starting point.

Lol, man it seems like there are so many of those out there. Are the differences more aesthetic than anything else? If so I'll just pick one and run with it.

For a cheap VV/VW mod, I think it's hard to beat the MVP2. About $40, and it's a solid performer.

You can pick up other regulated mods on line (I think the Vamo is still under $40) but you still need at least one battery and a charger, and that will tack on about another $30 - $40 to the price.

I'm pretty set on a 2014 Nitecore but I'll look into the MVP2, thanks.

 

[Higanbana]

I use AW IMR button top batteries from RTD in my Vamo and Sigelei. Clones of some things are fine, but you really don't want to skimp when it comes to batteries and chargers.

Personally, I can't recommend the Vamo. I have babied mine from the beginning and it's performance is still iffy. The only thing I use it for is to check the battery levels of 18650s; sometimes it turns on and sometimes I have to shake it a few times. It has never left the house or been dropped, so even for $40 I find it unacceptable.

I agree with K_Tech that the Sigelei Zmax is more durable for a mod in the same class, but the MVP gets higher marks.

I prefer tank-style RBAs, since I find them more convenient. The Kayfun/Russian 91% are easy to build for your first try and produce nice vapor for a simple device. One of mine is a Kayfun "Black Edition" clone from Custom Mod Creations and I been quite happy with it.

Don't worry, batteries and chargers are the last thing I'm going to skimp on. They're not that expensive anyway. I was never quite sold on the Vamo V5 but this thread is steering me away from them, lol.

These are authentic. Innokin iTaste MVP V2.0 - 101 Vape

ETA: Honestly, I find rebuilding Kanger coils a PITA. I have a jar of used ones in case I get snowed in this winter and need something to do, but when you can buy the single coil heads for under $1.00 each, rebuilding them isn't worth my time. I think Kayfun coils are much more fun to build.

The way I see it, rebuilding Kanger coils is necessary for experience. And I already have two of them. I'd rather do it myself than spend a dollar on stock Kanger coils I never liked.

Thanks for the link.

 

[mikek1]

First off that's my bad, I meant 18350. Second, I'm not interested in stacking at all. I'm perfectly fine with buying different lengths before stacking. Third, sub-ohm is not even on my radar. I need to build my own Kanger coils and become comfortable with regulated mods before I even think about that. Someday, maybe. But I'm ok with going with AW IMRs and getting "Sony" or something more appropriate down the road.

In regard to the MVP2, should I worry about clones? Because there are Innokin MVP2s going for $50-$60 plus. Speaking of Aerotanks, I have a bone to pick. I'm puffing on one now and have two. Both of them have disconnected from their press-on fittings below the airflow regulator thingy portion. It's actually a topic I haven't yet come across on this forum and I'm not sure how to deal with it yet. Thanks for your insight on RDAs.

I don't think the Sony vtc5 is much more than the AW 18350. You can get vtc5's for $10 each. I would just forget all of that and go with the mvp. I don't think there are clones but I could be wrong. There are a few reputable online vendors who sell them for $35-$40 shipped.

Never heard of that one on a Aerotank, I use a protank2 with afc and haven;t had any kind of loose connections anywhere.

If you can return what you bought, I would do that and get the mvp. Practice building coils on the Aerotank and read up on ohms, volts etc and upgrade to a mech mod or 30-50 watt reg mod later on. Who knows you might be satisfied with the mvp and not even want to upgrade from there.

 

[Higanbana]

Never heard of that one on a Aerotank, I use a protank2 with afc and haven;t had any kind of loose connections anywhere.

I bought my Aerotanks on eBay. Maybe that's the problem, maybe not. But once they came apart the connection on both of them is like a hot dog in a hallway.

Right now I'm set on AW batteries. I'm ok with buying more things later and gifting what I no longer need 'cuz I need to school some family members on this stuff and get them off analogs.

 

[The Ocelot]

I'm pretty set on a 2014 Nitecore but I'll look into the MVP2, thanks.

The Nitecore is an okay charger, so is the Xtar - each have their fans. The MVP2 is a mod.

 

[Higanbana]

I've heard nothing bad about Nitecore chargers but if there's better I'll look into it. Nitecore is pretty cheap too.

 

[The Ocelot]

I've heard nothing bad about Nitecore chargers but if there's better I'll look into it. Nitecore is pretty cheap too.

I have two Nitecores and like them just fine. I also have an Xtar, but it's a small one that only charges 18350s. It comes down to personal preference between these two. Pila is another charger people like, but it's $$.

 

[K_Tech]

I'm all for DIY stuff but I'm not about to tap new threads on a cheap mod. I'd rather buy a decent Vamo, but for all the talk about stripped threads and great Vamos here, I have yet to find someone linking a source for up-to-date well reviewed Vamo V5s. Maybe I haven't looked hard enough yet.

I get you. I fix stuff for a living and I'm used to swinging a soldering iron, so repairing my Vamo was a non-event, but it's not everyone's cup of tea. Honestly, I haven't really looked into the new Vamos that much, but I'm hoping they get better. Other than the thread issue, it's been a solid performer, and it was the first or second mod I bought last year.

Seems like button/flat-top isn't a big a deal as I thought?

I'd say 90% of the time it's not.

Lol, man it seems like there are so many of those out there. Are the differences more aesthetic than anything else? If so I'll just pick one and run with it.

Some manufacturers are better than others. Some of the cheaper clones will have posts that spin, threads that strip out, cheaper o-rings that shred the first time you take the cap off, sharp/rough edges, etc.

Most of the clones from EHPro, HCigar, and lately Infinite seem to be well thought of, with some people going as far as claiming they are as good as the original.

 

[mikek1]

I've heard people mention the efest Luc chargers but yea I think they're about $30-$40

If you're deciding between the i2 and i4, go with the i4. If you're only charging 1-2 batteries it will charge at 750 mah instead of 500 mah on the i2. If you charge 4 at the same time it drops to 350mah. I ordered a i4 off amazon for $15 shipped and at first I thought it might be fake since it was pretty cheap but I contacted Nitecore and sent them pics and they confirmed its the real deal.

If you want to spend a little more I believe the nitecore d2 and d4 has digital readouts which will tell you the voltage of the batteries.

edit-the i4 I got was the 2014 version