looking for some homemade bottom switch info

[Big Mac]

Howdy folks,

Well, I'm getting ready for my second copper mod and I want to put a bottom switch on it. I've been thru the forum and found some info on homemade switchs. But its not what I'm looking for. I want to build on that I can lock out so it is a pocketable mod. Did I miss it here in the forums? If you have some info, or a link to a post I missed, I would appreciate the help.

If a lockable switch is not real doable, then I was looking at Scubadans touch switch. The mod I will be building will be using this batt...
4.8 Volt NiMH Battery Cell
would a touch switch work on this?

Would really like a lockable bottom switch, but am open to suggestions.

Big Mac

 

[Justin66]

Giving a bump, because someone must know something here and can help.

 

[gravewolf]

Side firing bottom or just bottom firing? There are ways you can make lockable buttons but you'd need proper tools and materials or else it would be very difficult to make one.

 

[Big Mac]

Wow, I thought this thread done died and went to modders heaven.

Some things have changed, except, I'm still looking for info on how others do a bottom switch. At this point, I'm not concerned about making it lockable, just one that will be a nice rock steady switch...purely mech. I tried to recreate the wheel and have a few that work, but I am not happy with them....not yet anyways.

I'm just starting on a side by side that will mimic the sidewinder. I've always liked the look of that PV. I'll lock out the switch in a similar fashion.

So if anyone wants to talk about their mech switches, I would appreciate it and I know others would also.

Mac

 

[asdaq]

Hi Mac, I would recommend against any lockout that you have to look at to line up as it will drive you crazy over time. Also if you are doing a dual tube, I'm a bit surprised that you still want a bottom switch as there are many other good places for a switch. Here are my favorites and they screw to lock and have a light action, but the one with the chrome ball is stiff enough that it would work fine as a bottom switch and would not misfire:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/211313-simple-switch-opposing-magnets-safety.html

I tried a bottom switch but with the mod over 5" it felt like holding a microphone and I did not care for it. That one still needs some work....

 

[gravewolf]

I agree with asdaq, having a bottom firing button takes up a lot of space and adds extra length to a mod. Though if you don't mind having a longer mod and if you're comfortable using a bottom fire then it your call. I do have picture of my own bottom fire button and I a round plastic to isolate the negative from the bottom. There's a cap with a hole that holds it all in place.

 

[Big Mac]

Howdy folks,

I guess I need to rephrase "bottom switch". Originally, the mod I was building, at the time of the first post, needed an actual bottom switch. I ended up using a purchased switch that had a large plastic nut that I shaved down some and then pressed into the bottom of the mod. Worked well enough, but it's not what I wanted. That was after a couple of failed attempts using a home built, fully mech switch.

The switch on the mod that is now on the drawing board will be in the same location as your switch on the Brass Beast. So maybe I should say...an end switch, since it could be used on the top or bottom, but will be used on the top of a tube.

I have been experimenting using a cheap little alum flashlight with the rubber dome on the end. After gutting everything in the cap, I built a switch and pressed it into the cap under the dome...everything was out of sight and looked good but, for the mod im now building I would much rather see the nuts and bolts of the switches. Gives the mod character.

One last comment/question. How are you making sure you have a good contact between the shaft of the switch and the body of the mod? I was counting on the spring for that contact to be constant and firm. If I was to use magnets, then the contact would have to come from the shaft and the hole the shaft moves thru....correct? Is that sufficient, is there a loss because of that connection? Forgive my poorly asked question.....I'm new to the electrics part of building stuff and still learning, so not sure of the proper terminology to use.

Asdaq, I have followed a number of your posts, your mods are works of art. Thank you for taking an interest in the switch question and for sharing.

Mac

 

[asdaq]

Why thanks! I did not answer earlier as I don't really like the bottom switch placement. The shaft has a nut on the bottom and the top (presta valve and two presta nuts) that are securely bolted to the body one on each side. I think that is what you are getting at. The point of resistance is the inside of this stem and the tube on the screw that moves, and this occasionally needs cleaning.

 

[Big Mac]

Yeap, that's what I was getting at, lol. Guess I'll swing by the local bike shop and see what they might have laying around in the way of presta stuff. Hope they remember me, been awhile since I was there...used to build recumbent bikes for fun.

 

[asdaq]

If it is bike service shop, and they change tires, they probably have a stack of dead inner tubes that they would be happy if you took them away for them.