Looking to go into mechanicals

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Credo

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So also I should grab a Kick-2 if i want to go sub-ohm and use a kick? instead of a original kick clone?

Yes, the Evolv Kick 2 can take atties from 0.5 - 3.0 Ohms up to 15 watts. It can fire even higher resistance atties (I.E. 4 Ohm), but might not carry them all the way up to 15 watts. It is currently the only regulator of this class/type that can handle atties with resistance that low.

Most of the other Kicks/Stomps/Crowns can't/shouldn't be used with atties below 1.2 Ohms or so. I'd say 1.5 Ohms to give some head room.

Generally, with any Kick...single coil atties from 2 to 2.5 Ohms are ideal to start with, as they will give the fullest 'range' of temperatures.

Sub Ohm stuff is mainly useful for cloud chasing multiple coil builds...otherwise, with a Kick, for single coil builds you don't really need to go that low in resistance. That's pretty much the point of the kick...screw any thing you want on there and then have the ability to fine tune it to taste, and not have to worry about voltage drops and battery sag.

Really, you can do really nice dual coils builds (1 to 1.5ish Ohms [so two 2.5 to 3 Ohm parallel coils]) without going sub-ohm as well...and with 7.5 watts per coil available through the Kick 2...it's just a matter of getting the wicks and air right. If you need 'more than 15 watts' then make sure you've got the right battery, be careful, research and make the proper sub-ohm build, and remove the Kick all together.

Just remember, with an unregulated mod, it's better to take out and recharge your batteries too soon, than it is to vape them below 3 volts or so. If you sub-ohm, best to change at 3.5v. (Under load, the battery should not drop below 2 volts...ever).
 
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cvedrick

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So also I should grab a Kick-2 if i want to go sub-ohm and use a kick? instead of a original kick clone?

To me, the kick and clones have 2 big advantages over straight mech.

1. It allows you to utilize the full battery charge without the voltage falling off and resulting in battery changes to get your tasty vape back. With a kick module, I can use an 18350 in 18500 mode for longer than an un-kicked 18650 lasts.

2. Allows the same wattage output using Ω+ resistances my increasing the voltage to compensate.

Basically a kick gives you the option to sub-ohm your build (without kick) or go ohm+ with variable voltage and regulated output (with kick)
 

Credo

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So on your battery images with the kick, do you use the kick plus a vape safe mod fuse? Credo

The Kick and Stomp regulators do not need the VapeSafe at all. These are a bit taller than an Artisan Crown.

The Image with the red batteries and the white crown sitting on top (version 2.0 is actually blue) is for the Artisan Crown regulators...not the Evolv, Sigelei, or Smoktech ones.

The Artisan Crown regulators are magnetized so they stick to the battery, and they do come with a VapeSafe. In the case of the Crown kit, the VapeSafe also has an extra little magnet spacer soldered on and it mainly acts as a 'proper spacer' for mods that need it. I.E. The Crown with the included vape safe fuse and an 18490/18500 battery is pretty close to the exact same length as an 18650 battery. Without the Vape Safe spacer...the Artisan Crown would come up short. I.E. For telescoping mods, and some mods with big fat springs in them...the VapeSafe might be 'optional'.

An Artisan Crown looks like this (but version 2.0 would be blue instead of white):
Crown-Manual-Fig-2.jpg

Note, these others aren't 'magnetized' like the Crown.

Evolv Kick 2 looks like this:
download.jpg

And here's an Evolv Kick 1 sitting on a battery
652711459_758.jpg

Here's the SmokTech Kick Clone:
download (1).jpg

And here's a Sigelei Stomp:
181200_375381405901795_275957467_n.jpg

So in summary...with the Artisan Crown, yes, I usually use the Vape Safe spacer that comes with it. While it's not really needed in my K100...I still use it because that K100 button is prone to dent in the bottom of my batteries if I'm not careful...the vapesafe isn't going to 'dent' like a battery negative post will if I get careless, screw it together a bit too tight, and then and mash the button too hard.

With my Evolv (or other) Kicks...no...I usually don't use a 2 cent fuse...it won't hurt if it 'fits' in your mod...but is totally unnecessary.
 
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Cap'nTripps

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Hi, ive been vaping for over a month now, starting with kanger esmarts, now using evods with mini t3s tanks. Nothing wrong with evods now, but ive got a birthday coming up, and want ti go for something more advanced with VV. (I know next to nothing about mechs or mods), and was hoping somebody could recommend an "upgrade"-something with good quality, and not too advanced. Any help appreciated. (Btw ive got my eye on the smoketech SID, so im after something along those lines.
 

edyle

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Hi, ive been vaping for over a month now, starting with kanger esmarts, now using evods with mini t3s tanks. Nothing wrong with evods now, but ive got a birthday coming up, and want ti go for something more advanced with VV. (I know next to nothing about mechs or mods), and was hoping somebody could recommend an "upgrade"-something with good quality, and not too advanced. Any help appreciated. (Btw ive got my eye on the smoketech SID, so im after something along those lines.

SID, SVD, Vamo, Zmax, Evic, VTR, Provari.

All except the Provari have VW.

For an upgrade, I would recommend the MVP high capacity passthrough battery, or the next level upgrade from that would be one of the above - I would recommend the VTR.

I'm not familiar with the SID, myself, but I have not seen complaints about it;
I've seen complaints about problems on the SVD.
I've got a Vamo and Sigelei zmax myself. I like the vamo more in principle, but I happen to use the zmax more; probably because I got it first, and it is also steel, whereas the version of vamo I got is chromed brass. But if I get a couple extra tubes for the vamo, I'll end up using that because the tubes can go on the top and protect my tank.


Since you mentioned 'too advanced', that reminds me of the Evic; you can plug your evic into your computer and configure it; and upgrade the software on it: :)

The Provari is high quality, expensive, plus so far they are the only example I have seen that offer an option for a module that you can stick in instead of a battery and vape off the wall outlet directly without having a battery at all.
 
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Cap'nTripps

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Great info there thanks a lot. I admit to being pretty confused by the sheer amount of options out there. The provari may prove too expensive (im going for around thw £60 mark, tops, but wow! You can just plug it directly into the plug socket? Thats an incredile feature, and i may even look into that. The smoketech is apparantly high quality with oled display, getting good reviews, but i have to say i looove the sound of a chromed brass pv; ill make sure to look into all the models you mentioned. Thanks again for the advice.
 

cvedrick

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look into upgrading your tank as well, I have replaced ALL of my BCC atomizers with the Youde, UD AGR+, no leaks, flooding or gurgles, all the flavor you could want and if you are VV/VW you can grank that thing till steam comes out your ears, been using boge punched low resistance, just got the same except drilled and plan to test them when this one goes belly up.

FYI I have several Sigelei ZMAX mods, go t1 and liked it so much I got another, neighbor saw it bought my spare and I had to order another one...... I can get the version 3 in the states for $40 Nitecore chargers are really good value and safe as such things go, an 18350 with a kick of VV/VW unit lasts as long or longer than an 18650 without and you can get move volts cranking too.

Look at the specifications onthe clones versus the evolv version, some of them are rated higher in voltage and wattage.
 

Cap'nTripps

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Yeah for sure, im thinking about getting the kanger air, but open to any decent tank (just have a liking for kanger kit). Ive heard a lot of positive feedback on the sigeli ZMAX, so thats something im looking into; its prob at the top of my list along with the SID, Vamo, or even the provari, if i can afford it. I would like to get a mech/mod with a polymer casing, if there is such a thing.

Edit: wow, ive checked out the provari, and was seriously impressed. At £160 its way out of my budget, mores the pity.
 
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^Top-Shelf^

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I'm not aware of a telescoping mod that is long enough to Kick an 18650. You'd have to drop to the 18500 battery or shorter for all of the telescoping models that I'm currently aware of (or find a way to extend something...or pay to have something custom done).


The K100 is definitely a good buy for $20, but you can NOT Kick an 18650 with it. I found that mine needed some tweaking to work smoothly (grind the button's contact smooth, down to the copper, so it doesn't scratch up and dent my batteries and fuses). I also discovered that the silver half of the mod can get marred up with thread marks when using shorter batteries unless you put a wrap of tape or something around it when going into 18500 or 18350 mode. Other than that, its been a good little mod for me.

Credo, look at the beginning of this thread post #10 at the extended K100 with kick that I suggested which seems to have stirred up a whole .... storm about mechanical mods and kicks lmao. Also a vamo extension tube or chi-you tube can be used between the body and button to use a kick on standard K100. Just an FYI for future

I don't think very many ppl know about this version so that's why I always suggest it to ppl.
And I agree with the wrap in 18350-500 mode, what I did on mine was wrap Teflon tape around threads to tighten them up but still got a slight side to side movement so made a thick paper sleeve to go around the telescope "high gloss magazine sub slip" get absolutely no play in it now, SOLID. I'm also getting zero voltage drop from batt to 510! Haven't touched the button or anything. I'm thinking this is a result of the sleeve causing voltage to only pass threw threads of telescope to 510 and nothing else.
 
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Credo

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Credo, look at the beginning of this thread post #10 at the extended K100 with kick that I suggested which seems to have stirred up a whole .... storm about mechanical mods and kicks lmao. Also a vamo extension tube or chi-you tube can be used between the body and button to use a kick on standard K100. Just an FYI for future

I don't think very many ppl know about this version so that's why I always suggest it to ppl.
And I agree with the wrap in 18350-500 mode, what I did on mine was wrap Teflon tape around threads to tighten them up but still got a slight side to side movement so made a thick paper sleeve to go around the telescope "high gloss magazine sub slip" get absolutely no play in it now, SOLID. I'm also getting zero voltage drop from batt to 510! Haven't touched the button or anything. I'm thinking this is a result of the sleeve causing voltage to only pass threw threads of telescope to 510 and nothing else.

Thanks for the head's up.

I had looked at that site and K100 that you posted and I thought it was a regular K100 kit that 'comes with a kick'. It does not say it is 'extended' or that it will work with an 18650 and a kick. I'm also confused by the "Why VV?" opening since Kicks are instead, "VW". The way that it is worded isn't very clear...at the time I was thinking "I would contact the seller and CONFIRM that it can Kick an 18650 before ordering one."

After looking at ALL the pictures on the site, it does appear to have a Kick extension sleeve at the positive end of the Mod. Cool.
new1__60423.1389747323.1280.1280.jpg
(The last ring on the right does seem to be a kick extension)

Quote: "Why VV? This mod has been upgraded by the manufacturer and includes a kick in the inner tube to adjust your voltage to your liking (3V-5V)! This amazing mechanical mod features all of the benefits of the original K100 and now you can use it with your favorite mechanical mod accessories! Alternatively, you can simply use this mod with your choice of an 18650, 18500 or 18350 battery. The ribbed body of this mod makes it not only a pleasure to hold, but aesthetically pleasing as well! The bottom button allows you to simply fire the mod at your leisure, and lock it just as easily with its reverse threaded lock!"

I'd still want a confirmation that this K100 can indeed "Kick" (I.E. use my Evolv Kick) an 18650 before I ordered it. I.E. Is it instead a VV regulator (3-5v), or is it a Kick (VW from 5-10, 12, or 15 watts...with all the safety features of the Kick regulators)? Can it be swapped for an Evolv Kick 2, or an Artisan Crown?

At that price I would not mind having one myself :) I like to carry 'spare or alternate mods' all loaded and ready to go instead of 'spare batteries' :)

A Chi You extension on a K100? Really? The threading matches? Please put up some pictures or videos, I'd like to see it. I'd like to have a Chi You...to use as a Chi You :)
 
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vaquino41981

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My 1st mech mod was a K101, the K100's sibling. For the price I think it's a great entry level mech mod. My only slight gripe with it is, fully extended even tightened with a battery inside, the top tube can wobble against the bottom tube.

My second was a magneto, I love the simple/sleek look of it, the way the magnetic button feels, and the way it felt solid.

While I haven't metered them, I always felt that the K101, along with my sentinel clone always hit harder than the magneto.

But for what you pay for them I feel that they are pretty solid mech mods.
 

1wildman

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I love the looks of the Chi You. There is definately one in my future. Thinking my next major purchase will be a Russian 91 so i can looking for the perfect mech to go with that. I need some thing for when i am driving as dripping is probably worse than texting. :) You can never have too many mechs. The only non-mech i am looking at right now are DNA30 mods.
 

Jonathan Rizo

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If i add an two extra wheels to a (BI)cycle does it doesnt meet the definition of a bicycle anymore. By your logic my MVP is a mech with an integrated kick. :laugh: If you really want protection and voltage regulation there are easier and cheaper ways than the Kick. Adjusting a kick is a pain in the ... compared to pushing a button on a regulated device.

If the OP is looking into a mech than let him learn the basics and run with it - no need for training wheels. Why make a simple system more complicated?

+1 well put. I remember when I first got into vaping and I just ended jumping right into the mech world. Honestly I think that's the best way, someone at a shop can help you learn how to build or there's millions of videos on youtube and you have this huge forum for endless info. Don't get discouraged, honestly I find the VW/VV mods much more complicated haha. Mech mods win! :p
 

Lexx

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I love the looks of the Chi You. There is definately one in my future. Thinking my next major purchase will be a Russian 91 so i can looking for the perfect mech to go with that. I need some thing for when i am driving as dripping is probably worse than texting. :) You can never have too many mechs. The only non-mech i am looking at right now are DNA30 mods.

My Nemesis/Russian is my go to device at present, love it. Ordered a brass Caravela & hybrid kit to up the voltage a few %. Will likely buy yet another Russian so the Nemmy & the Vela don't have to share.

Got a Chi You in the mail along with a Taifun GT. Very nice looking, industrial and chunky combo. Can't wait to vape it. A hybrid kit will be purchased if I like this as much as I think I will.

Mech + chimney style atty is where it's at for me at the moment.
 
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