The cherry bomber's have a reputation.
If
- the outer case is metal and always-on negative,
- and if it's switched-negative with centerpin always-on positive
then the mod can be accidentally fired by laying down on a metal table or chair.
I own three cherry bombers. The autofire fear is blown out of proportion. If your cherry bomber is anodized aluminum (which I'd believe is fair to say is most of them) you basically have nothing to worry about other than the protruding firing switch (and maybe the body switch barrel also being anodized causing your mod to hotswitch via the switch spring, but that is another subject). The only cherry bombers this is even remotely close to a problem with is non-anodized aluminum, or brass or copper CB's that have had the clear coat removed. Even then, the only side that can cause it to auto fire would be the switch side. The cb isn't a 22 mm mod, if it falls over on said metal table your atty won't contact the table.
To the OP:
Learn ohms law.
Go to the battery forum and read up on tests (I'll TL

R sum is up for you: the only 18650s on the market worth buying for a mech right now are the Sony vtc4, the Samsung 25r, and the LG hg2. Out of these I will personally vouch for the vtc4. It stays cool even at CDR in my experience).
CDR is the max amp load a battery is rated for to discharge continuously until it has nominal voltage left. If you build at CDR and your button gets stuck your coils will likely overheat and melt before your battery reaches nominal voltage. Even if they don't, at CDR the battery is rated by the manufacturer (ever worried of litigation, mind you) to discharge without heating up enough to go into thermal runaway and vent.
You are safe building at CDR, whether you like the vape or not is up to you.
If you have batteries of differing amp handling capacities, make sure you don't pair them with an atomizer that exceeds the cells CDR.