M16 Clone / Private V2 Clone with Kanger Mini Protank/Protank possible?

Status
Not open for further replies.

tstar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 21, 2013
209
79
Philadelphia, PA, USA
Hey ECF,

I am looking to add my 2nd mechanical mod and I have narrowed down to two that I really like.

My first choice is to go with the M16 clone in all brass from fasttech

$16.22 Sentinel M16 Mod Telescoping E-Cigarette Battery Compartment - gold at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

My second choice is the Private V2 clone in SS + Copper + Brass

$20.96 Private V2 Telescoping Mech Mod E-Cigarette Battery Compartment - brass + copper + stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

I am wondering if it was possible to run a Kanger Protank mini on one of these? I only ask because I currently have a Kanger Mini Protank on my K101 mod. I see that the 510 thread connection isn't deep so my guess is that the Mini Protank won't fit on [it probably wouldn't look at nice]. But, would a Kanger Protank or Protank 2 fit on either of these mech mods?

I was looking into to a rba set up too, but I don't think I can rebuild atomizers as well as just purchasing the replacements for cheap

Please chime in, sorry for noob questions
 
Last edited:

90quattrocoupe

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 20, 2013
333
154
Long Beach, CA
Personally, I would stay away from both those mods. I don't own them, but from looking at the pictures the battery vent holes are in the center section. If you used these in the short mode, the hole would covered, and neither would be able to vent a battery.

The Protank II would probably look good on these modes. One thing I have found with the PTII, is that if the slots for the 510 connection are narrow, then the draw has a tendency to be tight.

Greg W.
 

yaypudding

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 17, 2013
809
2,422
North of NYC
They do not run the length of the tube on the inside, so your vent holes aren't covered, they are just slightly shorter so that the middle section is uncovered.

I ordered both of these last week and can't wait to get these guys in hand. My sigelei 19 looks similar to the top cap and the protanks work on that, but that's just a guess.

edit: protank mini will not work on these without an adapter.
 

tstar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 21, 2013
209
79
Philadelphia, PA, USA
Personally, I would stay away from both those mods. I don't own them, but from looking at the pictures the battery vent holes are in the center section. If you used these in the short mode, the hole would covered, and neither would be able to vent a battery.

The Protank II would probably look good on these modes. One thing I have found with the PTII, is that if the slots for the 510 connection are narrow, then the draw has a tendency to be tight.

Greg W.
Which mod do you recommend? I am really looking for something sleek. I don't like that my K101 is sky blue haha but its an awesome mod

Would you recommend the Protank 1? I have the Protank mini now and I don't mind the airy draw
They do not run the length of the tube on the inside, so your vent holes aren't covered, they are just slightly shorter so that the middle section is uncovered.

I ordered both of these last week and can't wait to get these guys in hand. My sigelei 19 looks similar to the top cap and the protanks work on that, but that's just a guess.

edit: protank mini will not work on these without an adapter.
I figured the protank mini wouldn't work, but that's fine since my girlfriend is going to be getting that to go on her ego spinner

Do you like your Sigelei 19? I was looking at it on VaporTek but I read a long thread on ECF with people requiring to do things to make it function. I want something I can rely on and use out of the box like my K101 did.
Most mods now are 510 threaded, not ego threaded. My m16 does not have ego threads.

To answer your question, you can use the mini protank on those mods if you have a 510-ego adapter. Without it, you cant
Thanks for the input
i just ordered the M16 clone for my to use with my kangerpro tank i will let you know if it works.
Please let me know! I am really trying to make sure I plan out my purchases. Feel free to PM me when you get it together
 

Shaketuga

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 22, 2013
786
935
Casper, Wyoming
I have the M16 clone and I love it! But I do agree with the safety issue on 18350 but i run 650s so it's not a concern of mine. Good call on the brass though I have the aluminum ends and have to be verry careful with the threads. But it looks nice! Another mod I own that is a value is the Sigelei #8 its my favorite "clone"
Hey ECF,

I am looking to add my 2nd mechanical mod and I have narrowed down to two that I really like.

My first choice is to go with the M16 clone in all brass from FastTech

$16.22 Sentinel M16 Mod Telescoping E-Cigarette Battery Compartment - gold at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

My second choice is the Private V2 clone in SS + Copper + Brass

$20.96 Private V2 Telescoping Mech Mod E-Cigarette Battery Compartment - brass + copper + stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

I am wondering if it was possible to run a Kanger Protank mini on one of these? I only ask because I currently have a Kanger Mini Protank on my K101 mod. I see that the 510 thread connection isn't deep so my guess is that the Mini Protank won't fit on [it probably wouldn't look at nice]. But, would a Kanger Protank or Protank 2 fit on either of these mech mods?

I was looking into to a RBA set up too, but I don't think I can rebuild atomizers as well as just purchasing the replacements for cheap

Please chime in, sorry for noob questions
 

Smokke

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2013
162
77
Atlanta, GA, USA
I have both. Stay away from Alluminum because the threads will not last. Go with Brass or Stainless. Also, I would only use an 18650 battery with these due to the vent hole placement like others are saying. I got mine super cheap from Vapor Break but I wont be back because they took longer than Fasttech to ship and their quality is not as good as Fasttech. Live and learn! LOL
 

yaypudding

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 17, 2013
809
2,422
North of NYC
firstly, i was wrong about the vent holes, or rather unsure. I have these on order and will let you know when I get them. The placement of the vent holes is very unclear in the fasttech description. So please disregard what I previously stated. Worse comes to worse you can always drill one out.

I have the stainless sigelei 19 and the 19b brass. The 19b works great out of the box, one of my favorite mechs to use in 350 mode. The ss 19 i have, had firing issues from day 1. i ordered a replacement button from this guy on ebay, fatdaddyvapes.com and it uses a brass contact which replaced the magnet on the switch. now it fires without fault and I get pretty good power from it.

He is sending me another switch where he put magnets to replace the spring, I'll see how that works, i'm hoping the action is really smooth.

I did try modding the original button on the SS 19 but i tried everything and couldn't get that magnet out, (boiling, sitting in 100% alcohol overnight, dremmel groove) but now I have a spare button for just in case.

also the nzonic cap for the 19 doesn't have ego cone threading as the standard cap does.

So for around $40 a piece including the additional button caps, I consider it a steal.
 

tstar

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 21, 2013
209
79
Philadelphia, PA, USA
firstly, i was wrong about the vent holes, or rather unsure. I have these on order and will let you know when I get them. The placement of the vent holes is very unclear in the fasttech description. So please disregard what I previously stated. Worse comes to worse you can always drill one out.

I have the stainless sigelei 19 and the 19b brass. The 19b works great out of the box, one of my favorite mechs to use in 350 mode. The ss 19 i have, had firing issues from day 1. i ordered a replacement button from this guy on ebay, fatdaddyvapes.com and it uses a brass contact which replaced the magnet on the switch. now it fires without fault and I get pretty good power from it.

He is sending me another switch where he put magnets to replace the spring, I'll see how that works, i'm hoping the action is really smooth.

I did try modding the original button on the SS 19 but i tried everything and couldn't get that magnet out, (boiling, sitting in 100% alcohol overnight, dremmel groove) but now I have a spare button for just in case.

also the nzonic cap for the 19 doesn't have ego cone threading as the standard cap does.

So for around $40 a piece including the additional button caps, I consider it a steal.

Yeah I have no problem with drilling the holes to vent the battery... I would just need to know where would be the most ideal spot to drill it I guess.

I am going to PM you about the 19B yaypudding
 
I have the brass (gold) version of the M16 from FT, been enjoying it this week - solid build, original PT fits fine, PT mini with a 510/Ego adapter fits fine.

It has a hefty weight and is far, far more balanced when at least ½ to 2/3 telescoped. On 18350 mode it feels too dense.


On a cautionary note, my first run with 18350s was today and despite having the safety lock on: the battery started to heat in my pocket.
By chance I had pulled the neoprene case out of my pocket, unlocked it and tried to fire it.
As nothing happened I checked the battery which was halfway to too hot to hold, although not noticeably hot through the mod itself.
I smirked given I was in an English market town, military county with a rucksack, beard, shemagh and a battery that could possibly vent.
I seem to have narrowed it down to the bottom o-ring not keeping the battery off the switch's pin. I have since adjusted the o-ring and no further issues
 

hooligan333

Full Member
Verified Member
Dec 9, 2012
33
8
37
Cali
I got one of these, works great. It can't telescope fully in with a (button-top, at least) 18350 in there, so keeping the vent holes exposed is not a great difficulty on it. Though the aluminum version's firing pin seems to unscrew quite easily; once or twice in the first week I had it, when I released the firing pin it (and it's very dark spring) shot off a few feet in to the carpet. The brass version is much better, and though it does loosen over the course of a day, it's easy to tighten it without taking it apart. Though it's a bit more of a pain than a 'zero-maintenance' mod it's made worthwhile by the all-brass mod's exceptionally low voltage drop.
 

WarHawk-AVG

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Jul 27, 2013
3,370
4,398
H-Town
There are vent holes, one in the center sleeve, one in the outer sleeve...look closely at this picture (unless that hole in image 2 is the hole for the center sleeve...hmmm)

1425200-10.jpg


1425200-6.jpg


To be able to use the eGo threaded cone on the inside of the protank mini, you will need this adapter
Due to the top cap, there is only a 510 connector and it's more or less a flush fit
1425200-11.jpg
[/img]

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10003955/1284600
1284600-4.jpg
 
Last edited:

DelboyinDorset

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 10, 2013
391
343
Dorset - UK
I just killed my first battery on my newly arrived M16 :(

I assembled it logically e.g. top down wards and then loosening the tubes a bit fitted a battery but the firing pin section I didn't loosen up and the firing pin punched through the battery bottom. Saw the plastic covering on the Kamry battery I was using had burnt away but that was the only indication the battery was kaput, I put instead protected button top in there which has the fused bottom board on it.

Some of my Vivi's won't work on it either as air holes are covered.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread