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four2109

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Has anyone else had issues with the steel 401 batteries from Ruyan? I got 4 of them and so far the 3 that I've used won't hold a charge more than 1 1/2 hours ( I usually get 3 1/2-4 from my other 401's) .

They're also getting WAY hot...

I got my 401/2/3 from Ruyan Direct.
The batteries stay lit for about a full second after the draw and the atty gets pretty hot. It seems to work great and I am very happy with it. Maybe this will make me PUT IT DOWN! :p
Just concerned about what this is doing to the component life.
 

Siobhan

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I got my 401/2/3 from Ruyan Direct.
The batteries stay lit for about a full second after the draw and the atty gets pretty hot. It seems to work great and I am very happy with it. Maybe this will make me PUT IT DOWN! :p
Just concerned about what this is doing to the component life.

So far only the steel ones I got are an issue...the matte black ones seem to be working fine.

How long are you holding a charge?

Just a quick caveat...I LOVE my 401's other than these few weird batteries I just got. Everything else has been aces!
 

four2109

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I can't tell on Batt life yet. I bought 2 kits + a 402 and 403 bat. I'm not sure I got all the Batts charged for 8 hours when I got it. Then sent a kit home with my Dad to try... so I have one charger and 4 batteries right now.. I just got it last week and am trying to figure out which toy I want to play with!! I love this damm thing though. It's so cute!
 
So far only the steel ones I got are an issue...the matte black ones seem to be working fine.


I was thinking about getting a few of the steel ones but maybe best to wait then... they do look purty though... So far I have only gotten the black ones from there and they are fine..

The atty does get hot if you chain vape:) mine does... but also the heat will generate more vapor. It should not hurt anything unless the wick is dry.
 
I can't tell on Batt life yet. I bought 2 kits + a 402 and 403 bat. I'm not sure I got all the Batts charged for 8 hours when I got it. Then sent a kit home with my Dad to try... so I have one charger and 4 batteries right now.. I just got it last week and am trying to figure out which toy I want to play with!! I love this damm thing though. It's so cute!

402 and 403 batts will not last as long as a 401 batt... but yeah, the shorter ones are probably VERY cute:)
 
I think the exposed atties may let you feel the heat more... but they don't get any hotter than recessed atties. The steel batteries may get hot because the steel conducts the heat. I'll avoid the steel.. a hot battery might kill the mic or do some other internal damage... there is definitely a flaw in using a steel casing for a battery... good thing no steel mouthpiece or you might get a mouth burn! ouch!

edit: the colored batteries are some sort of plastic... not painted steel, so they do not conduct the heat from the atty... the only part what should feel hot is the little steel band of the atomizer that is exposed when you vape. That is normal:)
 
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four2109

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I use a pen clip and was afraid it would scratch the black but apparently it isn't a painted surface. It looks great and doesn't draw attention. My 4081 will just be my workhorse!

I had read that the mic switches were sensitive, but in the car the batt only comes on if I hold it up to the window.

I love it!
 
Purr: where the heck did you get plastic battery casings? All of my Smoore batts have a SS battery tube, just the black/white ones are painted, and the woodgrain is a clearcoated sticker.


Well i could be wrong..lol... but they don't feel like steel.. whatever they are, they don't conduct heat like the silver looking ones seem to be.

I don't have the shiny silver ones so I am only going by someone saying they are getting hot. I can only guess.. Maybe I will buy a silver one to test it out.
 

Siobhan

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I've fired off an e-mail to Wayne about these particular batteries. My guess is that the ones that I got were probably part of a batch issue rather than a type issue since I've not seen any other posts about this on the forums. But still a guess nonetheless for now.

And yeah prr, they're really pretty!
 
Purr: The paint on the black/white is actually pretty thick, and may act as an insulator against the heat of the atomizer. A way to check if the battery is SS is to pop off the led "ashcap" and look at the batt from the led end. You should see the unpainted inner wall of the battery tube.
I was naughty and scraped some of the black off.. they are SS... yeah... but don't get hot. maybe I will just scrape/sandpaper all the black off then buff it up and see how it looks... Might as well.. Already took some off.


I've fired off an e-mail to Wayne about these particular batteries. My guess is that the ones that I got were probably part of a batch issue rather than a type issue since I've not seen any other posts about this on the forums. But still a guess nonetheless for now.

And yeah prr, they're really pretty!

Let me know what happens. They are VERY pretty and would love to have a few... so long as they don't burn up!:evil:
 

ruuku

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igetcha has a great tutorial on "blinging" out your M401, but he leaves it with a rough grit sandpaper, I'd say around 800. If you want to get it really shiny I would take it up to at least 1500, if not 2000 followed by metal polish/rubbing compound. The key is the electric drill... makes the process much faster and easier than by hand. My friend did this and that thing looks like its chrome. I wouldn't do this if you mind the smell that comes with unpainted metal though, as the oils from your hand will react with the metal and create that metallic smell. Modding the mouthpiece is another beast altogether, and I would not try it unless your VERY patient. igetcha did his in i think 20-30 minutes, but I ended up giving up altogether. You literally need to get the cart paper thin to slide into the tube.
EDIT: forgot to post the link. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...o-tutorial-including-platinum-mouthpiece.html
 
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igetcha has a great tutorial on "blinging" out your M401, but he leaves it with a rough grit sandpaper, I'd say around 800. If you want to get it really shiny I would take it up to at least 1500, if not 2000 followed by metal polish/rubbing compound. The key is the electric drill... makes the process much faster and easier than by hand. My friend did this and that thing looks like its chrome. I wouldn't do this if you mind the smell that comes with unpainted metal though, as the oils from your hand will react with the metal and create that metallic smell. Modding the mouthpiece is another beast altogether, and I would not try it unless your VERY patient. igetcha did his in i think 20-30 minutes, but I ended up giving up altogether. You literally need to get the cart paper thin to slide into the tube.
EDIT: forgot to post the link. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...o-tutorial-including-platinum-mouthpiece.html

Unfortunately I don't have the equipment nor ANY $$ right now to get it as I have spent so much already.. I was using a nail file and yeah... the metal is pretty dull looking.... :lol:

as for the metal mouthpiece.. naaah! I don't think I'd like the metal taste in my mouth... black mouthpiece looks good with it though:) if I did use metal for a mouthpiece.. I wouldn't need the cart thinned out or slid in.. I only dip! lol

I have also seen threads of people painting theirs or using nail transfers for pretty little images... But I'm not in to that. heheh.. I think if the heating issue gets resolved.. I'll just get a batt or two already nice and silver shiny at some point. ;)
 
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cyberwolf

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I was intrigued by igetcha's tutorial and now have sanded off about half of my batteries. I did the mouthpiece too, but really didn't care for the metal in my mouth. I started with the white M401 thinking that I wanted it to look as much like a normal cig as possible. Now I find I want exactly the opposite. Anyhow, ruuku is right on with the fine sandpaper and polishing compound. They look great after that. Especially the ones with the blue LED.
 
Well, I received an e-mail back already and the most kind (and prompt!) people at Ruyan concur with me that it's just plain weird that all of the batts I bought were acting up and also believe it's a batch issue.

They're replacing them :)


Great! Hope they are better this time.. They do have very good customer service...
 
Kaeo773 I have questions for you. You said you had a couple of DSE401 batts to take out to loud events because they use negative pressure and are not affected by sound. Do you use regular m401/2 atomizers with the DSE batteries? What i want to know is do they seem to have a harder draw than the m-series when used with the m-series atty? Do you have any DSE401 attys? Can you compare? I'm trying to figure something out about my passthroughs.. Below I am pasting in a convo from another thread with macros I took. Any insight from anyone would be helpful and this is the king/queen/homebase m-series thread in my opinion:)

--------------------------------

Be careful of the wire. If you keep bending it where it enters the passthrough, it could break. I put a small glob of clear silicone on the end to protect the wire from bending sharply at that point.
I was concerned about that as well.. I don't have much to work with, so I used tape to stiffen it up and protect the wire:
PassthroughTaped.jpg

The harder draw seems like a tighter vacuum switch. You have to draw harder to activate it. It may loosen up a little with use.
Could the harder draw be caused by the Trueman passthroughs being made from the DSE401 batts instead of the m401 batts? I have never had a DSE401 batt and was told they are based on negative pressure as apposed to the mic in the m401. Were the DSE401 attys made differently? Maybe the atomizers are not in perfect sink with the passthrough. I do notice the little hole is in a diff place on this DSE based passthrough than the M batteries:
PSvBATT.jpg


DSE-passthrough on the side. m-series straight shot... edit: It is my understanding that the little hole is where the mic is activated on the m-series and the big hole has a light plastic coating inside to protect the hardware... it's not juice getting in the big hole that shorts/clogs up the battery, but the little hole... I would assume the DSE version is the same? Maybe the m-series atty is not lined up properly with the DSE side hole and this causes a harder draw?

Also.. The screw threads on the DSE passthrough look and feel more crude and seem spaced a little farther apart. Could that also have an effect?

PSvBATT2.jpg


Umm.. yeah. before anyone asks.. The other day I started scraping the paint off the battery to try to get a shiny steel look.. with a nail file as it's all I have. metal was nasty smelling on my skin after holding so i used some crappy nail polish to cover it up.:lol:
The one I using right now is from vaporguys, about $19 if my memory serves me right, has the LED too.
Are they in stock? and are they made from the m-series with the hole in the right place with the (what I believe to be) nicer screw threads? mayhaps next month I should check that out!
 
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kaeo773

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I only use my M40x atomizers on the DSE401 batteries. The DSE401 as a whole has a much harder draw due to having a 2 hole atomizer, and the DSE401 batteries use pressure switch. I do notice a slightly harder draw when I use the DSE401 battery with my M40x atomizer. I rarely use the DSE401 batteries, I only use them when I go out to a club.
 
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