Made my own genesis. I need a little help though.

[Akya2120]

Hey everyone, so I finally made a genesis. Problem is I can't get it to perform like other genesis atomizers I have seen. Not to mention the extreme throat hit. I am using .2mm kanthal and 325 mesh. I tried 3 wraps and got about .9 ohms right now with six full wraps I am getting about 2.4 ohms but it isn't stable. It changes causing my provari to through codes. I oxidized the mesh three times lit the wick on fire with e liquid. Oh I also use 75% VG eliquid. I prefer a smoother vape. I had 400 mesh but it seems to have disappeared on me. I can't upload pictures from my phone so I will have to post them when I wake up later because it is 3:00 am my time and I am about to go to bed. It almost seems like my wick isn't wicking properly. I have rolled about 5 wicks tonight.
Anyone have any ideas? I understand if pictures are needed to really help.

Thanks for your time!

 

[asdaq]

Burning drops of eliquid three times doesn't sound like enough. I do this method but prefer more like 10 times and quenching in between with drops when still hot. That should help with the stable resistance part, and as for high TH I would expect airflow misdirected or too restricted to be the culprit. Also I would recommend to keep working on the wicks you've made so far, it really sounds like they aren't ready yet, unless you crumpled them up like a disappointed writer.

 

[BJ43]

Hey everyone, so I finally made a genesis. Problem is I can't get it to perform like other genesis atomizers I have seen. Not to mention the extreme throat hit. I am using .2mm kanthal and 325 mesh. I tried 3 wraps and got about .9 ohms right now with six full wraps I am getting about 2.4 ohms but it isn't stable. It changes causing my provari to through codes. I oxidized the mesh three times lit the wick on fire with e liquid. Oh I also use 75% VG eliquid. I prefer a smoother vape. I had 400 mesh but it seems to have disappeared on me. I can't upload pictures from my phone so I will have to post them when I wake up later because it is 3:00 am my time and I am about to go to bed. It almost seems like my wick isn't wicking properly. I have rolled about 5 wicks tonight.
Anyone have any ideas? I understand if pictures are needed to really help.

Thanks for your time!

IMO 325 does not wick enough (capillary action) for genesis, it drains fine for overhead tank, but not for rising juice.

 

[asdaq]

The #325 from the mesh company has less open area on account of the twill weave, and for me behaves quite the same as 400 to the point that I quickly forget where and when I've used it. I was hoping for more of a difference in TH and vapor production, but am only slightly disappointed.

 

[sumoman25]

It could be your air hole, you want it blowing air directly into the coil from the least amount of distance. Absolutely center is perfect.

 

[Akya2120]

So here are the pictures




It looks like the holes are drilled in the right spot. I oxidized the wick with a jet lighter three times, got it red hot and squelched it. Then I put e liquid on it 2 times and burned it off. I would prefer to be using 400 mesh but I can't find it. How high above the the cool does the wick have to be? Could it be that I am using too much wick? because sometimes I ruin a wick trying to get it into the hole.

The picture quality was better before posting them. Sorry.

By the way, the whole thing is 304 Stainless. Except the 510 connector at the base and the insulated copper wire that runs up the center(not through any e liquid). Even the negative terminal is a stainless nut and threaded rod. The O rings are food safe silicone, the tube is poly carbonate, and the top cap and mouth piece are acrylic. Figure it's safe to vape?

 

[asdaq]

The exposed copper in the chamber isn't so good, it gets liquid on it and heat as well, and it will break down in there. You might want to think about replacing it. Having extra wick above the coil is good as it acts as a reserve for liquid. I can't make out which of 3 spots are the air inlet and what size hole? You have the coil as low as possible in there, but while keeping the negative screwed down you should be able to slide the coil up a mm or two and aid getting the airhole directed at the bottom of the coil.

Is this a single tube poly carb body?

 

[Akya2120]

Yes the body is single tube. I drilled two 57 gauge holes. I had another stainless steel threaded rod but I damaged it attempting to press fit it into the body. Got the second one in fine that's the negative post. I'll take a close up of the air holes and post it in a minute. Maybe I news to make a new outer case. Should 10 times of lighting the wick on fire with a bic be enough to oxidize it? Or do I need to get it cherry red hot with a torch and squelch it a couple times?

 

[Akya2120]

Here are the pics





I took a picture of the bottom where I will fill it once I get a syringe. Also should I cut an angle at the base of my wick?



Sorry they are sideways... They didn't show up that way until I posted them.

 

[asdaq]

It's hard to tell the height of those holes but judging from the distance of the o-ring they seem kinda high, and seem to be at different angles from each other. You might want to tape one off (the upper) and keep using this tube til you get the sweet spot of where and what. To raise the coil higher you can also use another nut on the negative and sandwich the kanthal between the two. This combination can be raised even higher if need be.

For oxidizing, the lighter is just to ignite the liquid on the coil, the burning liquid does the rest. This I do 10 times holding it like a small tiki torch and let the flame travel down, making the mesh glow as it goes. I only count the times that it glows and creeps down, not when flame covers the whole wick as that isn't doing much.

 

[DonG]

from the pics, I agree with Asdaq. looks like the air inlet is too high, almost passing over the top of the coil instead of near the base of the coil. Try moving the coil a little higher on the wick so airflow is directed at the lowest coil.

 

[bstedh]

What I do is use roll pins inserted into the air hole to direct it on the coil. Your local hardware store should have a variety of tiny ones.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Akya2120]

Well I followed your instruction on the oxidizing. It's holding a steady resistance. I moved the coil up and covered the upper hole. It's about the same vapor either way just a bit stiffer draw with one closed. I'm getting a harsh almost dusty flavor from it. I have been getting it the whole time. It is definitely working better now though.

 

[iuseaspork]

This helped me a lot:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/289811-i-think-ive-made-my-first-successful-genesis-3.html#post6134434

 

[WillyB]

Well FWIW there is something to be said about being able to twist/rotate the mouthpiece when using a side inlet hole. It allows for some 'tuning' of the vape. As far as your original wicking problem I would add a small hole to the top SS plate. It can be used for filling and for me at least, helps with the wicking.

 

[asdaq]

Well FWIW there is something to be said about being able to twist/rotate the mouthpiece when using a side inlet hole. It allows for some 'tuning' of the vape. As far as your original wicking problem I would add a small hole to the top SS plate. It can be used for filling and for me at least, helps with the wicking.

Quite true, and popping off the top to fill or adjust the coil too. I'm guessing those white o-rings are softer and that the tolerance allows for pushing up the whole assembly to expose the parts like in the 1st pic. That would allow for some repositioning of the hole too.

Ones I've done with a single tube I make quite tight so this isn't really an option, but lining up the hole is quite critical when assembling.

 

[Akya2120]

Quite true, and popping off the top to fill or adjust the coil too. I'm guessing those white o-rings are softer and that the tolerance allows for pushing up the whole assembly to expose the parts like in the 1st pic. That would allow for some repositioning of the hole too.

Ones I've done with a single tube I make quite tight so this isn't really an option, but lining up the hole is quite critical when assembling.

I thought the hollow core of the wick was to allow air into the system and it didn't need another hole. Also I thought the hole made it act kind of like a straw so on draw a little would come up every time I draw. It is vaping alright, the clouds are a little lighter than what I normally get with a nice atty. Which is kind of frustrating because I know this style of atomizer can perform. It seems like my mesh always shorts a little. I think this might be because of how I have the negative terminal set up. I have the kanthan clamped between the top of the tank and a nut. This makes the resistance greater to go through the kanthal rather instead of the mesh. I think if I just reposition it and it will be better.I believed someone told me to do this earlier but I didin't see the point. It could also be the 325 mesh, I remember raidy saying something about 400 mesh being better for vapor. I will have to try that when I get home. The o rings are just tight enough to keep it in place but not too tight to keep me moving it with a bit of force.

 

[asdaq]

You certainly do not need another hole to let air return to the tank. I tried a 1mm hole like the Line and was quite disappointed, it would take seconds to leak from the tank to the chamber when upside down.

Also, following the path of least resistance and the wick, if the wick is oxidized so the positive is isolated, there is no path through the wick, so your negative connection is fine like it is.

 

[WillyB]

You certainly do not need another hole to let air return to the tank. I tried a 1mm hole like the Line and was quite disappointed, it would take seconds to leak from the tank to the chamber when upside down.

Also, following the path of least resistance and the wick, if the wick is oxidized so the positive is isolated, there is no path through the wick, so your negative connection is fine like it is.

That's an interesting comment.

Here's the the V2 version of the line.

The large hole in the threads is the fill port, I wonder what the small hole in the top plate is?

There is also igetcha's review of the Katana and how he fixed his wicking problem.

REVIEW OF THE KATANA ELECTRONIC CIGARETTE - YouTube

The vid is all lined up to start at the relevant spot.

... completely and utterly cleared up all my wicking problems

 

[asdaq]

That is what I was basing it on, but didn't care for the results. Apparently I have no problems with wicking (room around the wick) and the extra hole just gave juice an opportunity to leak into the chamber. In all fairness I was going for a drain from the chamber but it made it quite un-pocket-proof. Unless you always stand.