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This DNA20 screen size is the same viewable area as what I did with the DNA12. What I did with the DNA12 w/ an oLed display is what the DNA20 display is about. Seeing all the data on one screen
So that is like something we would call a 15580? Is that fitting into a AA battery box? Was there much tooling with the box to make it fit?
I coiled a length of 28 gauge Kanthal A1 wire and clipped my output on to various points to achieve the resistance in the test.
Testing at 7 watts:
1.5 ohm - 3.6v
1.7 ohm - 3.5v
2.0 ohm - 3.7v
2.5 ohm - 4.2v
3.1 ohm - 4.6v
3.5 ohm - 4.9v
5.1 ohm - 6.0v
6.4 ohm - 6.7v
Testing at 20 watts:
1.5 ohm - 5.6v
1.9 ohm - 6.3v
2.3 ohm - 6.9v
2.5 ohm - 7.0v
2.7 ohm - 7.3v
3.0 ohm - 7.8v
3.5 ohm - 8.3v - This is the highest resistance that doesn't warn: "Check Atomizer"
3.6 ohm - "Check Atomizer"
Testing at 7 watts:
1.5 ohm - 3.6v
1.7 ohm - 3.5v
2.0 ohm - 3.7v
2.5 ohm - 4.2v
3.1 ohm - 4.6v
3.5 ohm - 4.9v
5.1 ohm - 6.0v
6.4 ohm - 6.7v
Testing at 20 watts:
1.5 ohm - 5.6v
1.9 ohm - 6.3v
2.3 ohm - 6.9v
2.5 ohm - 7.0v
2.7 ohm - 7.3v
3.0 ohm - 7.8v
3.5 ohm - 8.3v - This is the highest resistance that doesn't warn: "Check Atomizer"
3.6 ohm - "Check Atomizer"
The battery will fit into an AA box but I'm standing the DNA20 board on edge and need the depth.
Word of CAUTION when handling the Display. Don't be a jerk like I was. I moved the screen when it was clamped to the box w/ a tool. Totally MY fault.
I originally posted that it was extremely fragile. Poor choice of words. Sorry! This has been edited to correct my statement.
I originally posted that it was extremely fragile. Poor choice of words. Sorry! This has been edited to correct my statement.
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Word of CAUTION when handling the Display. It is extremely fragile. DOH!
That's really not good....if it's that fragile and can't be handled.
I mean, it's one thing to have the board lock-up right outa the gate, but something else entirely when the hardware breaks off with normal handling.
Pretty much a GAME ENDER!
Knowing how most modders are gonna be building box mods with these and stuffing multiple components into one....if the screen is really that "cheap" and it breaks just from handling it, the DNA20 is clearly not a good choice for the "DIY" builder.
I think Mamu is correct by stating that she's looking into using a plastic cradle for the OLED, but unless one is readily available.....builders are not gonna want to custom make one.
Evolv might have to re-think their design if their target sales are going to be the DIY'er?
Certainly not worth risking $50 (or even $30) at the moment.
Hopefully Evolv can figure out a way to reinforce the ribbon cable on the screen. Seems like a few issues still need to be worked on. Regardless, I will still buy them either way.
Breaktru, did you put a new screen on, or just reattach the one that broke off?
Breaktru, did you put a new screen on, or just reattach the one that broke off?
Doesn't appear to be the ribbon cable that broke....looks like the OLED is sandwiched between 2 glass or plastic sheets?
(I think that red tab is actually a screen protector, is that right Breaktru?)
An OLED, by itself, is virtually unbreakable and is as flexible as a ribbon cable.
(I think that red tab is actually a screen protector, is that right Breaktru?)
An OLED, by itself, is virtually unbreakable and is as flexible as a ribbon cable.
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Are there no buttons on the pcb to start with?
I thought the Vaporcon video showed Evolv used some nails to push on board buttons???
*EDIT* Guess I should read closer
I thought the Vaporcon video showed Evolv used some nails to push on board buttons???
*EDIT* Guess I should read closer
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YAYS!! You did it breaktru! I totally bow to your awesome soldering skillz!!
Now chop chop - put it in a mod!
The new boards we received Tuesday are working aok. Brandon said it was an easy fix and apparently it was. To see the range of attys/cartos that can go all the way to 20W and up to 8v on one single batt amazes me as the Nivel can't handle 3 ohm resistance above 12W. If you want more than 12W with the Nivel, you need to lower the resistance to less than 2 ohm.
I'm not gonna vape anywhere near 20W lol it's just cool to see the DNA20D handle that kind of power. So all of us high watts vaperers will have a nice cushion before maxing out the capability and will also be able to use a range of resistance to do that.
It's not that the display can't be handled, it's just you need to be very careful working with it. After breaktru told me about his breaking, I put a dab of clear epoxy both at the board and at the end of the cable and I feel more comfortable working with it. Although the cable is soldered at the board, it's only glued with a piece of tape over that at the display end, so that end especially needs secured better. Just handle with kid's gloves is all.
Yes, that's my only hang up right now with getting it into a Lexi case. The one end of the display with the cable attached is creating a bit of a bugaboo for me as there is no ridge that I can insert into a cutout.
It would be perfect if there were at least a mm or so height to the translucent black plastic cover that is seated over the glass display. That would then solve the problem of inserting the display into a cutout. But for now, I need to create a 4-sided ridge on the display and am looking at a plexiglass piece for that.
Now chop chop - put it in a mod!
The new boards we received Tuesday are working aok. Brandon said it was an easy fix and apparently it was. To see the range of attys/cartos that can go all the way to 20W and up to 8v on one single batt amazes me as the Nivel can't handle 3 ohm resistance above 12W. If you want more than 12W with the Nivel, you need to lower the resistance to less than 2 ohm.
I'm not gonna vape anywhere near 20W lol it's just cool to see the DNA20D handle that kind of power. So all of us high watts vaperers will have a nice cushion before maxing out the capability and will also be able to use a range of resistance to do that.
It's not that the display can't be handled, it's just you need to be very careful working with it. After breaktru told me about his breaking, I put a dab of clear epoxy both at the board and at the end of the cable and I feel more comfortable working with it. Although the cable is soldered at the board, it's only glued with a piece of tape over that at the display end, so that end especially needs secured better. Just handle with kid's gloves is all.
Yes, that's my only hang up right now with getting it into a Lexi case. The one end of the display with the cable attached is creating a bit of a bugaboo for me as there is no ridge that I can insert into a cutout.
It would be perfect if there were at least a mm or so height to the translucent black plastic cover that is seated over the glass display. That would then solve the problem of inserting the display into a cutout. But for now, I need to create a 4-sided ridge on the display and am looking at a plexiglass piece for that.
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Yes the red tab is the sceen protector.
Yes the hard plastic snapped off. I un-soldered the ribbon cable w/ the display attached from the first board that locked up and re-soldered to the new board.
It's totally my fault and I posted about it on my site and how stupid I was and how it broke.
Thanks Mamu, I used the drag solder routine and it worked like a charm. Besides, although the spacing between the ribbon connections are tight, I've seen tighter ones that I would not attempt. I have an oLed display sitting in a box because of the micro spacing.
I had the same thought Mamu about using a drop of epoxy on both ends. I was out with the Wifey most of the day and the whole time I was thinking about the epoxy thing. LOL
Good luck w/ the mount for the display, like I mentioned in the PM, I'm going to mount it like I said and see what it looks like.
Thanks for the great info breaktru and mamu.......must say it is kinda unusual to have nay-sayers in a modders thread.....as with most new electronics it is great to do the beta testing before marketing (the Chinese might take note) and from my experience Evolv strives to have the best product and service....beta tests are great for working out the kinks....can't wait for the final version....Made in USA.....
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