Eh, right now, 24 gauge is the most popular. That`s one I have to get more of.
26 has held the banner long enough. LOL.
26 has held the banner long enough. LOL.
Hey guys,
I want to build my own coil, I've built a few on 26AWG and had no issues going up to 30W with 0.7ohm. I want to build my next coil on 28AWG, just wondering, because it's slimmer, will it have a wattage limitation which may fry it?
Basically asking, how high can I go on 28AWG with a VW mod (subox Mini)
Thanks
FWIW, I put it in the green range before any factoring. YMMV. Bear in mind the thing doesn't measure temperature of the coil surface, but rather power radiated therefrom. Some of this power evaporates juice, and some of it heats air. Both of these cool the surface temp of the coil. As has been said, it's not an absolute rule. If you like 300-- or 500-- mW/mm^2, then you like it and that's good enough. The idea is to give you a yard stick so you can gauge the results you're going to get before building. Try changing the wire gauge and see what happens to the numbersGood points, I haven't realized that this number is for an exposed dry coil and haven't factored the airflow and the liquid cooling it down. I'm not sure how much it cools it in that case, but safe to say 40-50% less? If so, then I'm on the 150-170 mW/mm^2 range and that sounds about right because as I said so far I've had 0 dry/burned hits with this coil. Also plenty of airflow, my wicking is pretty good and it bubbles regularly.
The only question is when building do you aim for the heat flux to be in the green range before or after the cooling/airflow is factored in...
28ga is tootle puffer wire for sure.
Very hard to work with as its so thing. Very hard to shape and dry burn as it will pop a leg like nothing.
It gets very hot. This is the number one reason I almost never use 28ga. I like a cool vape and 28ga get HOT!!!!!
Prolly the only thing I have 28ga on ATM is a Squape for a Provari. My Provari tops out at 15w and thats a VERY hot vape.
So guessing I'd say if you like a HOT vape maybe 12-15W and medium warm maybe 8-12 and for cool 6 or 7w.
nice!You gave me an idea for a coil.
A hybrid dual parallel spaced contact coil, 28 gauge, 3mm ID, 5 wrap. Came out to 0.6 ohms.
For my Subtank mini
(I have the older deck)
View attachment 516400
View attachment 516399
Currently running it at 40W, not bad
FWIW, I put it in the green range before any factoring. YMMV. Bear in mind the thing doesn't measure temperature of the coil surface, but rather power radiated therefrom. Some of this power evaporates juice, and some of it heats air. Both of these cool the surface temp of the coil. As has been said, it's not an absolute rule. If you like 300-- or 500-- mW/mm^2, then you like it and that's good enough. The idea is to give you a yard stick so you can gauge the results you're going to get before building. Try changing the wire gauge and see what happens to the numbers
I usually use twisted 28 in that range.So many comments thanks guys! So to sum it all up:
So last night I decided to build a new coil with 26AWG, 0.8 ohms, 6 wraps of 26AWG and I'm vaping it at 250 mW/mm^2 or so on 25W. Honestly it's fine and just as good as before in lower wattage, barely any different and 3W less in power.
I guess there's a reason to the temp being green on Steam Engine, however, what's the limit? I see most guys saying that 28AWG is ideal for 0.5-1.0 ohm but according to Steam Engine it will take 1mm of inner diameter to reach 4 wraps, and also it will output 923 mW/mm^2 in heat flux on 26W on 0.5ohm which sounds crazy hot to me.
So again I'm confused, and not sure what AWG I should be using for the 0.5-0.8ohm builds I am aiming for and more importantly, what's definitely the heat flux you should not pass when building and factoring in your desired W?
Thanks
So last night I decided to build a new coil with 26AWG, 0.8 ohms, 6 wraps of 26AWG and I'm vaping it at 250 mW/mm^2 or so on 25W. Honestly it's fine and just as good as before in lower wattage, barely any different and 3W less in power.
I guess there's a reason to the temp being green on Steam Engine, however, what's the limit? I see most guys saying that 28AWG is ideal for 0.5-1.0 ohm but according to Steam Engine it will take 1mm of inner diameter to reach 4 wraps, and also it will output 923 mW/mm^2 in heat flux on 26W on 0.5ohm which sounds crazy hot to me.
So again I'm confused, and not sure what AWG I should be using for the 0.5-0.8ohm builds I am aiming for and more importantly, what's definitely the heat flux you should not pass when building and factoring in your desired W?
Just trying to make sure I get it right bro... If a specific amount of heat flux means dry/burned hits I'd like to avoid that. I'm new to rebuilding, hence all the questions, not trying to be annoying or anything...
I guess this question can be easily answered if you guys can state the maximum heat flux that I shouldn't pass at my desired W, then Steam Engine will already work out the best gauge for me to use according to that.