Mech Mod Batteries

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Grimjack

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Hi folks,
Hope this question is in the right place, apologies if not. Just got my hands on an I-Chybrid, and it's my first venture into "mech mods". Prior to this i have been using MVP, Vamo and Itaste SVD. My question is about what kind of battery i should be using for the I-chybrid, or any other mech. Currently have efest imr 18350 that i was going to use, is it safe? I'm looking at getting a Magneto next, but really want to clear up my battery concerns first. Appreciate any input, even being pointed to to information that I should have already found by searching :)
 

Technonut

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The Pila and Xtar VP1 are both top-of-the-line chargers and you won't go wrong buying either one. For batteries, I'd go with the tried-and-true red AW IMR 1600 mAh (not the 2000 mAh) batteries. You need the high drain ability of an IMR battery, and not a protected battery.

For sub ohm vaping, you'll need an IMR battery designed to give out high amperage of at least 20 amps, of which there are only a few batteries capable of doing that. The 1600 mAh AW IMR and the 1500 mAh MNKE IMR can both provide 20 amps or more.

AW IMR 18650 1600 mAh

Batteries : MNKE IMR 18650

I'll also echo the suggestions to practice making coils in the 1.0 - 2.0 ohm range until you've gotten plenty of experience with RBAs. Sub ohm is NOT for beginners. Just accidentally nudging a coil by touching it when removing/replacing the RBA top cap can change its resistance by 0.5 ohm or more and result in shorting out your mod or battery...or worse.

I've made a blog article "Advice and Tips for Vapors Looking for Their First RBA" which has a lot of resource information on multimeters, battery and mod safety, and some tutorial videos on wick and coils building. Spend some time learning this stuff front to back. And always practice safe vaping. Remember that we got into vaping as a safe alternative to smoking, not because vaping has become a sport for some who are chasing for the biggest clouds available.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-tips-vapors-looking-try-their-first-rba.html






" http:// taste your juice.com/wordpress/battery-information/ " - Copy & paste this address into your browser window. (ECF has a glitch to direct linking it.) Remove the spaces. Below is most of this article:



"A LITTLE ON BATTERY SAFETY by PBusardo.
Difference in batteries:

In the electronic cigarette “mod” world there are two main types of batteries. ICR and IMR.

  • ICR = LiCoO2 (typical Li-ion) [typical protected batteries - Baditude]
  • IMR = LiMn [also called "high drain" and "unprotected" batteries - Baditude]

It is generally accepted that IMR batteries use a safer chemistry than ICRs which is why ICRs can be purchased with and without protection circuits.

IMRs can support higher discharge rates than ICRs and are a better choice for lower resistance coils and mechanical devices.

Although some ICRs have increased storage capacity (mAh) they may not always be able to deliver the amps required to power your device. For example, this is why ProVape recommends IMR type batteries.

So if you want to be safe what should you do? Here are some suggestions…

  • First, use any electronic cigarette or device AT YOUR OWN RISK!
  • Label/date your batteries so you know how long they’ve been in-use. If they’re still going after a year, toss them unless you have the ability to check their status.
  • Buy your batteries from reputable venders. I’ve been taken by the inflated mAh ratings seen on some “Ebay Offerings”. There are many good battery vendors out there. I get many of mine from RTD Vapor.
  • Get a QUALITY intelligent charger. The Xtars or Intellichargers both good choices.
  • Do no over discharge your battery. When you’re battery approaches 3.3 volts, it’s time to charge.
  • Do not carry loose batteries. Batteries thrown in a purse or pocket could find metal and short. For example… keys! Exposed batteries have the potential to short when not properly protected.
  • Try not to stack, but if you MUST… 1) use protected batteries (unless your device doesn’t like protected batteries then see the following points), 2) use a fuse such as the 2 Cents For Safety if your device doesn’t have built in protection, 3) use a like pair, 4) your like pair should have been purchased at the same time… they are married. They like to be together and spend all their time together. So they want to be discharged (in the device) and charged (on the charger) together. Never stack unlike batteries, or like batteries of unknown condition.

If you’re into those ultra low resistance coils (which I don’t recommend BTW – I personally believe .8 ohms and up should be PLENTY good enough) KNOW YOUR BATTERY!!! Be sure that the battery is capable and rated to generate the amount of amps required by your setup! For example:

  • Setup 1 = 1 ohm coil with a loaded voltage of 4.0V (just an example). Using Ohms law, Amps = Voltage/Resistance = 4 Amp Draw. Easy for most batteries!

  • Setup 2 = .3 ohm coil (which I DO NOT recommend) with a loaded voltage of 4.0V (again, just an example). Using Ohms law, Amps = Voltage/Resistance = 13.3 Amp Draw. Can your battery support that?

A NOTE ABOUT C-RATINGS
The C-Rating of the battery defines the maximum draw (in amps) that the battery is capable of. To calculate the max amp draw you need the C-Rating and the mAh of the battery. For example a 2000 mAh battery rated at 10C would be:

Max Amp Draw = (mAh / 1000) * C-Rating

(2000 / 1000) * 10 = 20 Amp Max Draw

Note: Running your batteries at their C-Rating will decrease the overall life of the battery.

The C-Rating also indicates the amount of time the battery can support that discharge rate. A 1 C battery can support the calculated draw continuously for 1 hour. 2 C would be 1/2 of an hour. 10C would be 1/10 of an hour."

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