Mech mod hesitation

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Blackboar

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Hey there! Moving up to mech mods will be a slippery slope! If you happen to like shiny things, you'll get one mech mod and the thing will multiply into many!

With that in mind, here's my personal experience with your questions.

- Since mechs use whatever voltage charge is left in the battery, as the battery drains, you'll definitely notice a diminishing quality in your vape. Whether you notice the flavor, vapor production, or throat hit drop, that will be the time to change your battery. When I first started using mech mods, I would notice the diminishing vape. I would throw the battery into my SVD and check the battery level. I notice consistently that I want to change batteries in my mech right around 3.5-3.6v.

- With maintenance, you'll need to wipe down your contacts on a regular basis. I usually take my mod apart and clean the pins during an atty change, when I rewick, or when I rebuild. I do one of those things often enough, that I usually keep my contacts in tip top shape. When I clean the contacts, I just use a cotton swab soaked in 91% isopropol alcohol.

- I find mech mods to perform best for me when sub-ohming. Usually I won't put something that is greater than a 1.0 ohm coil on a mech. I'd rather use my regulated mod, like a Provari, if I go 1.1 or greater. I have vaped my genny that was built to 1.5 ohms on my 4nine clone before. I did it as an experiment and was glad I had my Provari in my other pocket. Because the quality of the vape on the mech started out ok at full charge, but quickly diminished after the battery dropped below to 3.8 volts.

When I started vaping mechs, I only used them part time. I felt more comfortable with my regulated mods. Nowadays, I'm much more comfortable with my mechs, but still only take them out on rare occasions, because they're usually topped with sub-ohm builds that produce a lot of vapor. Not my style to blow big clouds in public places.

Good luck to you! The learning curve is there, but it's not bad. And you may end up collecting a bunch of shiny stainless, brass, or copper tools that will give you a heck of a vaping experience.
 

DocHo11idaze

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Mechs can be a bit intimidating from the start, I sort of dove right in with zero knowledge after breaking two xhale x6s from charging wrong. After buying a cheap mech kit, did a bit of research, learned the sony vtc5 battery is one of the top battery's so acquired a few if those. Wanting to build your own coils is inevitable, so purchase a digital multimeter. Knocks two birds with one stone, can test the ohms and battery voltage. But as mentioned, you can definently notice a difference once the battery gets around 3.5-3.7. Voltage drops aren't much of a concern IMO, most of them appear to be pretty solid as long as you get a good "reputable" clone or authentic
 

mujuru

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So I'm looking to get into Mech mods but cautious do to all the disclaimers. Batteries, shorts, voltage drops etc. Can someone help me out with a few concerns, How do you know when the battery is discharged enough to charge it? What kind of maintenance do mechs require? I'm not looking to sub ohm are mechs pointless then?

check battery with something as easy as this: Assembled Volt Indicators, Rev 2

After awhile, you will notice it by vape quality pretty easily.

Maintenance: keep it all clean...

Plenty of people with mechs that dont sub-ohm... which most likely include anyone that runs 18350s or other small battery such as 14500. Hardcore Sub-ohming on those would not be wise... a 1.2ohm coil can be perfectly satisfying for some... while others, not... Its really up to you and your preferences.

Mechs aren't rocket science... but they do require a certain amount of knowledge to be safe. Read up and you'll be comfortable with it soon enough. Here's a link ive seen passed around that's pretty handy and should answer your questions all in one spot.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/general-e-smoking-discussion/521076-one-stop-reference-shop-new-experienced-vapers.html
 

MrPlink

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Jump on in, the water is fine.

It will be painfully obvious when the battery is really low and in need of a charge, esp if you run lower resistance coils. A multimeter will allow you to confirm remaining voltage but you will be able to tell on your own.

Various shorts and other problems are pretty easy to spot.

Basic categories include
- it isnt firing when you want it to
- it IS firing when you dont want it to
and/or
- something is getting REALLY hot and it shouldnt

If you run into any of those combos then all you have to do to be safe is stop using it and start the process of deduction.

Dont have any of those issues? Well congrats, that means nothing is wrong.

Outside of that, get good batteries and a good charger. Learn the basics of battery safety and ohms law.

Then your biggest problem will be you kicking yourself for not switching over sooner
 

SPBALLER

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A lot of good stuff already posted. I recently took the plunge into the mech world, and had all the same questions and concerns you stated. I found this site explained things very well and covered everything I felt I needed to know in an easy to understand way. Introduction to Vaping | God of Steam

I just started with Mech 101 and clicked the links as they came up in the article, by the time I had read through everything my mind was at rest and I was ready to move forward.

It has been a lot of fun tinkering with different setups. If you enjoy vaping as a hobby I can't recommend a nice mechanical mod strongly enough.

Let us know what you decide!
 

WattWick

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It's a lot more comforting when someone wants to use a mech, but is hesitant... than someone wanting their first mech to blow bigger clouds than the next guy :)

Use batteries of the non-exploding kind. That would be IMR batteries. Check your atties resistance (and possible shorts). Use your mods locking mechanism when you pocket it. Stop vaping / swap batteries when vapor production drops significantly, or you notice you have to take much longer draws.

There should be no need to sub-ohm. However, you may find that you want a lower resistance on a mech than you would on a regulated VV mod. If that resistance is close to 1 ohm or even slightly below, just make sure you are confident your batteries can handle it. There is crossing the 1 ohm line, and there is pushing the limits of what a battery can handle. Just dipping 0.1-0.2 below 1 ohm is really no more dangerous than vaping at higher resistances... IF your batteries can handle it.

Once you can answer your own questions about "do I have a short?" and "is my battery good at my current resistance", there really is no reason to worry too much. As I see it, you're not very likely to over-discharge your batteries unless you accidentally keep the button pressed over time without knowing. As in; firing in a pocket or purse due to not being locked.
 

icemanistheking

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OP, both mechs and rebuildables seem crazy complicated when you are first researching...as others have said, battery safety/ohm's law and knowing how to use a multimeter to check atty resistance and check for shorts on both the mod and the atty are the main things you need to know going in.

Once you actually start using one, all the rest of the little details fall into place over time, same with rebuildables. Just don't stop educating yourself after you get your first devices and you'll be fine.

And welcome to the dark side :headbang:

P.S. buy authentic
 

rhean

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So I'm looking to get into Mech mods but cautious do to all the disclaimers. Batteries, shorts, voltage drops etc. Can someone help me out with a few concerns, How do you know when the battery is discharged enough to charge it? What kind of maintenance do mechs require? I'm not looking to sub ohm are mechs pointless then?


Mechs are solid and simple devices. They'll last forever, and they're easy to fix.

Get a cheap digital multimeter to measure your batteries and coils. As soon as you feel a drop-off in your vaping, measure the battery to get a sense for where you are. I get to this point around 3.5-3.6, then change the battery.

You do not have to stick to subohm with mechs.

Re upkeep: It's pretty basic. Once every other week or so, I take mine apart, polish the contacts with toothpaste, clean the rest with rubbing alcohol. Others might do it more/less often.

Mech clones are great--they are simple devices, with few failure points. No chips or wiring to worry about.

Definitely buy good batteries plus a good charger, as these determine safety. atm I'm using an intellicharger i4; they also have i2s. There are plenty of other chargers; browse this forum for info.

Re batteries: imr is better than protected. The battery determines how low you can go, if you ever decide to subohm. Here's a chart with some formulas:

Battery mAh & C Rating = amp Calculator
 

vapero

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everyone above me gave great tips so I wont go into those
mech mods are simple devices and once you figure them out it will be much more simpler than using regulated devices

when I first started on mechs I too was afraid of over discharging my bats so I check them a lot throughout the day; after half an hour I took them off and check their voltage, after a few days of this I knew how it felt and knew when to change them. now I don't normally check them but I'm making a commitment to myself to check them every few charges just to know the health of the batt but that feeling will come naturally to you in no time

my recomendations
18650 sony vtc5 35amps
18490 aw 16amps
18350 probably purple effest "10amps?" but I've never used them I have the aw's (I don't trust effest much but I know I've been wrong in the past on may things)
 
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wonkeypickle

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10 amp efests are fine, just keep them within their abilities. I am noticing a scary new trend with people trying to take their vtcs to the limit however. I had a guy at a b&m tell me his build would be fine for 1-2 second pulls, but after that the battery would need to cool down for a minute or two.


#itsyourface....
 

Ucliker

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Thanks for all of the help everyone. My background is in electronics design and repair so all of this isn't that hard to understand. I just read so many horror stories of mechs going wrong, it seems like 99% of the problems are user errors. But yes authentic mods sound a lot safer than a clone, not saying clones aren't good. It all boils down to you get what you pay for. Thanks again.
 

vapero

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Thanks for all of the help everyone. My background is in electronics design and repair so all of this isn't that hard to understand. I just read so many horror stories of mechs going wrong, it seems like 99% of the problems are user errors. But yes authentic mods sound a lot safer than a clone, not saying clones aren't good. It all boils down to you get what you pay for. Thanks again.

I would definetly understand that if talking about electronic mod but not into mechs; on a mech you know exactly how well the job is donde once you inspect it (aside from finishes or platings) but I KNOW that my clone mechs are as safe as the originals... just buy receive, inspect for shorts and you don't have to worry about it anymore
 

edyle

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Thanks for all of the help everyone. My background is in electronics design and repair so all of this isn't that hard to understand. I just read so many horror stories of mechs going wrong, it seems like 99% of the problems are user errors. But yes authentic mods sound a lot safer than a clone, not saying clones aren't good. It all boils down to you get what you pay for. Thanks again.

You still have not said
- why you are interested in mechs
- how much experience you have vaping

A mech is a good thing to have for backup;
I recommend having one which can take an optional kick with an 18650 battery.
 

Blackboar

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Thanks for all of the help everyone. My background is in electronics design and repair so all of this isn't that hard to understand. I just read so many horror stories of mechs going wrong, it seems like 99% of the problems are user errors. But yes authentic mods sound a lot safer than a clone, not saying clones aren't good. It all boils down to you get what you pay for. Thanks again.

Because of the simplicity of a mech mod (basically a flashlight tube, with a 510 connection instead of a lightbulb), safety wise, it doesn't matter if it's an authentic or a well built clone. Inspect the connections, the insulator, and make sure the battery is safe; you're pretty much good to go.

If you are trying to decide upon authentic or clone, the things that do set them apart are:
- pride of ownership
- moral outlook toward clones
- resale value
- quality of materials. Remember, there are thousands of types of "stainless steel" and different grades of the same material.
- affordability and vape budget

I own both. I get enjoyment out of both and wouldn't hesitate to get a new authentic or clone if it caught my eye.
 

vapero

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...in the vaping world you get what you pay for...

this quote that keeps popping in any clone discussion really bothers me.
I have two $24 mechs that are flawless, and two more in their way $20 and $15 that have almost perfect reviews.

if you are buying clones research is key, check the reviews and discussions about that particular model and you'll be great
 
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