Mech mod hesitation
- Thread starter Ucliker
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Well for durability and simplicity a simple mech is perfect; it makes for a great reliable backup.
A nemesis type with a kick tube so you can vape with or without a kick on an 18650 battery would be great .
The kick will cutoff when the battery gets too low, so you won't have to keep checking it yourself
I did a ton of research when i bought my mech mod. I ended up getting one that takes 18650 batteries because I use them in my SID vv/vw. Edyle is right on the Kick chips and you can also add a fuse if you want for added safety. I was worried about all the things you are asking when I was getting into a mech. It took me about week to get the feel for battery changes. I use a cartotank and build coils aroud 1.4-1.6 range never had any problems.
I do recommend having good batteries and a good multimeter to check your attys and batteries especially if your gonna sub-ohm.
I do recommend having good batteries and a good multimeter to check your attys and batteries especially if your gonna sub-ohm.
I have multimeters but why does everyone buy those cheap ohm meters? Are they not accurate?
I doubt that most people get those ohmmeters. More people would just use their mod, like a vamo or vv v3 that can check ohms without firing the coil.
The multimeter is practical on a rebuildable where you can put the probes on the posts.
I have seen a lot of cheap multimeters be off on there readings. I use a multi meter at work so I have access to a calibrated one. I am not saying you need a $300 Fluke but a $15 Victor pocket DMM can serve a vaper well. I have a friend that got off the analogs by sub-ohming and he couldnt figure out why his batteries where getting hot and not getting any good run time. Long story short.....his $7 no name multimeter wasnt worth a pinch of .....
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Most mechs can be Kicked always best to ask other users about specific models. A mech that takes a 18650 battery can be kicked but you have to use a shorter battery 18490/18500 or an extension tube if they make them for the mech.
I have never used one but I was considering it with my Z2.2 because I was worried about taking my batteries to low. I am glad I didnt with the respect to the fact I really notice when my voltage drops to 3.7-3.5 range. I never had a battery go below 3.4v before I caught it but keep in mind I am running a single coil in the 1.4-1.7ohm range which performance is poor at 3.5v I still check my batteries when I change them and when I pull them off the charger.
I have never used one but I was considering it with my Z2.2 because I was worried about taking my batteries to low. I am glad I didnt with the respect to the fact I really notice when my voltage drops to 3.7-3.5 range. I never had a battery go below 3.4v before I caught it but keep in mind I am running a single coil in the 1.4-1.7ohm range which performance is poor at 3.5v I still check my batteries when I change them and when I pull them off the charger.
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If you get a full nemesis with all the tubes it will take an 18650 and a kick.
That second item on the left looks like the kick ring to me.
$18.44 Nemesis Style Mechanical Mod - chromed brass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Second item on the left is the lock ring.
If you get a full nemesis with all the tubes it will take an 18650 and a kick.
That second item on the left looks like the kick ring to me.
$18.44 Nemesis Style Mechanical Mod - chromed brass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
To kick an 18650 you use all the tubes. The 18500 tube acts as the kick ring. Use the base tube and the 18500 tube to kick an 18350.
To kick an 18500 you use the 18650 tube.
It shouldnt and dosent.
Your vape does not care if it is coming from a mass produced mod or some hack machine shop in a "modders" garage.
These are not complex devices by any stretch.
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