Mech Mod advantages?

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ukeman

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btw i just realized that not only did AW IMR 650 get upgraded to 15C in 2011, but so did the 490's +1

would someone tell the AW vendor on ECF… they are listed 10C and lots of folks (pre 2011) don't know.

most devices that use LR or even sub ohms resistances, if worth their salt, recommend AW IMR which is a high drain (for high out put over a sustained period) and afaik materials will implode vs explode… dont quote me as being scientific)

AW P batts are "protected" with a casing that can be a barrier against explosions.
They are not high output but good quality and will service a lower output for a longer time depending on mah rating #

I might as well put a ? at the end of my sentences here.
 
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Alexander Mundy

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Interesting idea. Any pics of the fuse setup? Is it a blade fuse?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

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edyle

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I bought a kick clone and it pulses when i vape is that normal?

The way they work is they pulse the voltage up to a value such that the average voltage corresponds to the desired voltage;
If the battery is at 4V and the desired is 4V, then the amount of pulsing is 0.
If the battery is at 4V and the desired is 4.1V, then the pulsing might be up to maybe 4.2V; that's a 5% pulse from 4 to 4.2
But if the battery is at 3.5V and the desired voltage is 4.1, then the pulsing might be like up to 4.7 so as to average out to 4.1; that's a pulse from 3.5 to 4.7 ... 1.2v about 34% pulsing.

So as the battery drops in voltage, the amount of pulsing required gets higher.


At least that's my theory about how the thing works, and my numbers are guesstimates.
 

NealBJr

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I have... a LOT of RBA and RDA. Here's most (but not all) of them:
2f24e711-fc44-407b-bec8-7f2cbd14f35a_zps2ed1d565.jpg


Here's my desk (with some overlap from above, they get shuffled around depending on what I am vaping):
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Here's my desk yesterday, trying to decide which of the 2 blocks of wood matches better for my custom wood mod, my e-pipes didn't make the photo cept for the Rhodesian Ebony on the top shelf (which block do you like better?):
DSC00120800x531_zpsacf6a802.jpg


I have a kicked mech mod that easily vaped a .7 coil I accidentally made, but it's not a true sub-ohm mech mod. That's what the wood is for, a pdib mod (look in the sub forum, he's taking reservations).

At the moment, the count is totally off, editing this:).

And not one of them is a Vamo. I tell you one thing, my wife would never let my vaping habbit go that far. So, I have to be picky about what I get. I also notice a lack of brass.. is that for a reason? (I mean for decoration, it should be ok).

currently vaping a dual 1.2 Ohm mech mod. Great flavor, warm vape, safe on a 20a battery. :)
 

Ladiekali

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The way they work is they pulse the voltage up to a value such that the average voltage corresponds to the desired voltage;
If the battery is at 4V and the desired is 4V, then the amount of pulsing is 0.
If the battery is at 4V and the desired is 4.1V, then the pulsing might be up to maybe 4.2V; that's a 5% pulse from 4 to 4.2
But if the battery is at 3.5V and the desired voltage is 4.1, then the pulsing might be like up to 4.7 so as to average out to 4.1; that's a pulse from 3.5 to 4.7 ... 1.2v about 34% pulsing.

So as the battery drops in voltage, the amount of pulsing required gets higher.


At least that's my theory about how the thing works, and my numbers are guesstimates.


Ok this makes since. Not worried about accuacy, helped me get a undestandig of how it works. Thank you.
 

Funk Dracula

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The way they work is they pulse the voltage up to a value such that the average voltage corresponds to the desired voltage;
If the battery is at 4V and the desired is 4V, then the amount of pulsing is 0.
If the battery is at 4V and the desired is 4.1V, then the pulsing might be up to maybe 4.2V; that's a 5% pulse from 4 to 4.2
But if the battery is at 3.5V and the desired voltage is 4.1, then the pulsing might be like up to 4.7 so as to average out to 4.1; that's a pulse from 3.5 to 4.7 ... 1.2v about 34% pulsing.

So as the battery drops in voltage, the amount of pulsing required gets higher.


At least that's my theory about how the thing works, and my numbers are guesstimates.

There is no PWM in the Kick.

The Kick "pulses" to let you know the battery is low. It is a feature. LOL

Orange Juice?

Screenshot2014-02-04at45304AM_zps4404087f.png
 

edyle

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And not one of them is a Vamo. I tell you one thing, my wife would never let my vaping habbit go that far. So, I have to be picky about what I get. I also notice a lack of brass.. is that for a reason? (I mean for decoration, it should be ok).

currently vaping a dual 1.2 Ohm mech mod. Great flavor, warm vape, safe on a 20a battery. :)

Ha! That's probably just happens to be what he was holding at the time!
 

edyle

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I tried to test the voltage output with the kick in and it says 3.75 no matter the setting i use.
So either the kick is crap, or i sm doing something wrong. Is there a kick thread around here?

The frequency on most of them is supposed to be about 33 times a second, so it's not something you're going to be able to see with a simple multimeter; you'd need an oscilloscope.
 

glassgal

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And not one of them is a Vamo. I tell you one thing, my wife would never let my vaping habbit go that far. So, I have to be picky about what I get. I also notice a lack of brass.. is that for a reason? (I mean for decoration, it should be ok).

currently vaping a dual 1.2 Ohm mech mod. Great flavor, warm vape, safe on a 20a battery. :)

I just haven't found a brass unit I like yet... I don't have a Vamo, but I have a Sigelei ZMax Mini. What do you mean too far? I've only just gotten started. I am now on mechs:).
 

Funk Dracula

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The frequency on most of them is supposed to be about 33 times a second, so it's not something you're going to be able to see with a simple multimeter; you'd need an oscilloscope.


The frequency of the Evolv Kick is ZERO. It supplies Direct Current.
 
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edyle

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The frequency of the Evolv Kick is ZERO. It supplies Direct Current.

Thanks.

That's good.

And the efficiency looks like over 80% according to their website:

Battery life per charge: Many variables contribute to battery life per charge cycle. The Kick incorporates a boost circuit which requires more of your battery. Aggregate button/activation time, power setting, and atty/carto selection all factor into this equation. Battery age and conductive efficiency of the different devices are also variables. Using the Kick will reduce battery life per charge cycle. There is no way to provide use time per charge cycle as there are too many variables. On average, testers experienced reductions ranging from 10 to 20% depending on many different use variables.
 
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