Ok, so that's because the lower the ohms, the higher the amps? So from .56 ohms to 3 ohms is the range atomizer a 10a battery can handle?
Mech Mod advantages?
- Thread starter glassgal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Ok, so that's because the lower the ohms, the higher the amps? So from .56 ohms to 3 ohms is the range atomizer a 10a battery can handle?
Yes. You can of course make a 10 Ohm coil but it will take about 10 minutes to heat up and your vaping will be very frustrating!
It's essentially a balancing act between the vape that you personally like, and the limitations of batteries and the coils you are able to consistently make and measure. On a mechanical mod you cannot just increase the voltage like on a vv device and so you lower the coil resistance to get to where you need to be.
T
It's essentially a balancing act between the vape that you personally like, and the limitations of batteries and the coils you are able to consistently make and measure. On a mechanical mod you cannot just increase the voltage like on a vv device and so you lower the coil resistance to get to where you need to be.
T
So basically... mech mods are DIFFERENT from regulated mods, because on regulated mods, I keep reading that higher ohm heads (coils) means less battery recharging and longer vaping life. So they do not behave exactly the same way, because regulation changes the resist levels?
And, I see your point about speed of heating up, I've noticed that myself when using 28 ga wire at a higher ohm... very slow... as in counting seconds before the entire coil turns red. But I don't think that's the case with store bought heads, which are pretty high gauge as a whole, like 32 to even 34 gauge wires, regardless of the ohms. (so now we're into the difference between mech and regulated... but I do appreciate the education!!).
And, I see your point about speed of heating up, I've noticed that myself when using 28 ga wire at a higher ohm... very slow... as in counting seconds before the entire coil turns red. But I don't think that's the case with store bought heads, which are pretty high gauge as a whole, like 32 to even 34 gauge wires, regardless of the ohms. (so now we're into the difference between mech and regulated... but I do appreciate the education!!).
The question was:
Aren't you just trying to say that if you choose a good battery the battery lifespan will NOT be reduced?
The battery lifespan will certainly not be longer.
The general answer to the question is that the battery life will be shorter.
Lets say you vape well at 4 volts and above.
With a regulated mod, you can continue vaping even though your battery goes down to 3.7 volts, then you swap out the battery.
On a mech mod, when the battery drops below 4 volts, your vape decreases and you want to swap out the battery.
Instead of swaping out the battery so frequently, you use a lower ohm coil so that you get good vape at lower voltages.
Let me digest that....
You know the thing that drives me crazy about all this is that there's no simple, repeatable 'rules'... or theorems. Why can't someone just say stuff like:
the higher the ohm, the higher the battery savings for the same vape
like
the more power you use, the more juice you consume
If it could all be reduced to a few rules/laws/theorems, it would be so much easier. I realize that much of it is conditional, but geez...
You know the thing that drives me crazy about all this is that there's no simple, repeatable 'rules'... or theorems. Why can't someone just say stuff like:
the higher the ohm, the higher the battery savings for the same vape
like
the more power you use, the more juice you consume
If it could all be reduced to a few rules/laws/theorems, it would be so much easier. I realize that much of it is conditional, but geez...
Ohms law does not change, a lower ohm coil consumes more amp, thus uses more of the batteries power quicker. The real key is to pick a ohm that gives the vape you want and change when that vape is no longer as good as you need. What you need to do is pick a battery that support high voltage longer.
So using a AW IMR 1600 which holds relatively high voltage then drops quickly will perform well with either ohm. Compared to some of the higher mah batteries which drop voltage quickly but hold lower voltages longer.
So using a AW IMR 1600 which holds relatively high voltage then drops quickly will perform well with either ohm. Compared to some of the higher mah batteries which drop voltage quickly but hold lower voltages longer.
With a regulated mod you should be able to vape down to 3.2V or whatever the circuitry cut off voltage was designed for without noticing any change.
With a mechanical the vape starts to suffer noticeably around 3.7V.
The time the battery stays above 4V is short and then the discharge voltage curve starts flattening out.
Picking a low internal resistance battery with as much of the flatter area of the discharge curve (the specific curve for your amperage) above 3.7V or so is the best way to maximize vape time on a mechanical.
This is assuming the mod itself doesn't have a bad voltage drop.
When others and I modded our Reos with fuse and brass firing pin it added about 1/3rd more vape time at 0.8ohm
Rob is coming out with a sub ohm kit replacing the spring and firing pin with beryllium copper ones for the sub ohm Reo users so anyone can enjoy this benefit.
pdib (one of the founders of this modification) has designed the bf mod he is producing with this in mind from the get go of conception.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
He said it in more easy terms to digest than I did while I was composing
hats off to OP GG for taking this on like a smack to the head… and not just doing it "because everyone is"….
regarding difference between expensive and cheap mechanicals, i want to emphasize "design" factor…
I love a beautiful design, but i consider beauty merely cosmetic and beside the point unless you consider "beauty is what beauty does" as in functional design.
1. Conductivity: less voltage drop; points of resistance in the design that will tick off power from batt to atomizer coil. Materials of contacts, and the device itself. If its a telescopic, break points or extra threading conncetors that may add electronic resistance.
2. Button design; if its a bottom button, how smooth is the press. Will it stand up (if a tube) unlocked, and not fire?
3. Adjustibility of contacts top positive pin and bottom: this is important because of variations in lengths of batteries, and positive connector on the atomizer.
All these factors are important, and each high end builder tries to balance each to come up with a good device, and there are many and most have design differences in each factor, many are similar.
Look at my signature; for a year now I've narrowed down my mechanicals to the most conductive of mechanicals that also have the other factors built in.
There are many more high end mechs with awesome design features for certain functional aspects of a mech device but don't measure up to what a lot of sub ohms freaks cherish the most: low v drop.
I will admit that a .01 ohms difference, even a .001 ohms variance is ridiculously minute, but many high end (and cheap) mechanicals will vary between minuscule and quite huge… and there you have your vaper who wants a mech who's other factors may be more important, or who don't care about eking out every last drop of power to the atomizer.
I don't include the clones in my sig, but some like the Brass Nemesis clone, has a v drop measure that runs circles around some of the most expensive mechs… imo its still a clone, and were i not able to afford my mechs… well there's something for everyone
Chart of V drop on many high end mechanicals:
http://www.calivapers.com/showthread.php?5222-Mod-Voltage-Test-Setup
regarding difference between expensive and cheap mechanicals, i want to emphasize "design" factor…
I love a beautiful design, but i consider beauty merely cosmetic and beside the point unless you consider "beauty is what beauty does" as in functional design.
1. Conductivity: less voltage drop; points of resistance in the design that will tick off power from batt to atomizer coil. Materials of contacts, and the device itself. If its a telescopic, break points or extra threading conncetors that may add electronic resistance.
2. Button design; if its a bottom button, how smooth is the press. Will it stand up (if a tube) unlocked, and not fire?
3. Adjustibility of contacts top positive pin and bottom: this is important because of variations in lengths of batteries, and positive connector on the atomizer.
All these factors are important, and each high end builder tries to balance each to come up with a good device, and there are many and most have design differences in each factor, many are similar.
Look at my signature; for a year now I've narrowed down my mechanicals to the most conductive of mechanicals that also have the other factors built in.
There are many more high end mechs with awesome design features for certain functional aspects of a mech device but don't measure up to what a lot of sub ohms freaks cherish the most: low v drop.
I will admit that a .01 ohms difference, even a .001 ohms variance is ridiculously minute, but many high end (and cheap) mechanicals will vary between minuscule and quite huge… and there you have your vaper who wants a mech who's other factors may be more important, or who don't care about eking out every last drop of power to the atomizer.
I don't include the clones in my sig, but some like the Brass Nemesis clone, has a v drop measure that runs circles around some of the most expensive mechs… imo its still a clone, and were i not able to afford my mechs… well there's something for everyone
Chart of V drop on many high end mechanicals:
http://www.calivapers.com/showthread.php?5222-Mod-Voltage-Test-Setup
Last edited:
There are.
That's why the technology moved from a simple battery, to 'variable voltage' (It is really REGULATED VOLTAGE or constant voltage), and then to 'variable wattage' (it is really REGULATED POWER or constant power.
One simple rule: You want your coil to be at a certain temperature; this can be set by setting the POWER to the coil; that is why we have VW; it's an attempt to set the power going to the coil; So while people might use a wide range of voltages and a wide range of resistances, you can find that 6 watts or thereabouts is the right kind of power for standard vaping.
"The example you use: the higher the ohm, the higher the battery savings for the same vape": well there's something to that; the higher resistance you use, the less stress and demands you are putting on the battery, and therefore, you expect batteries to last longer; Of course you will also be using a higher voltage; and to use a higher voltage, you are probably using electronics that raises the voltage; but then if your eletronics is 50% inefficient, meaning it wastes half the power in the process of trying to raise the voltage, then your battery is actually going only last half the life it should because you are wasting half of it!! I do not know what the efficiency of the electronics is, but maybe it's as good as 90%; or maybe it is more like 70%. I have no idea.
"the more power you use, the more juice you consume"
Yes that would be right.
I see it as there are actually 3 'types' of vaping for ME (subjective).
1. my standard vaping, which can include lazy easy to use store bought heads that I can grab quickly and go if I need to. I don't need to sent them for anything, not VV, not VW, and they work fine with ego or MVP2, as well as my Provari. They are still in my rotation. With these, I care about nothing. They work fine with uncontrollable egos, there's not a whole lot of need for controls.
2. My RBA RDA, where I fiddle with my ohm to get a more specific vape. With these, I don't want a set power output, because I KNOW what volts I like for each head, and I don't want the power adjusting my voltage so my vape, and thus flavor, changes on me. This flavor factor, which happens to be WHY I vape, matters a whole lot more than battery consumption.
When things are NOT equal, and I'm building my own coils to get the vape I want, why would I care about a consistent power drain? When I care most about consistent power drain is when I'm using generic heads. The one thing I've learned over the last day is that the 3 factors combine in various ways to accomplish the same goal. Well, that means is that if you set the power, your voltage will change as your battery drains... and then your flavor changes (you adjust your volts, your flavor changes). That's why people who have both settings on their mods (both VV and VW) typically set their VOLTS anyway, in lieu of their watts.
3. My BilletBox and other carto systems, where I just got a new type of resist/nonresist carto RBA and since it's a carto where the vape doesn't do any significant changing with ohms, all I care about is battery power. Now HERE, the watts matter most. What will determine this is the ohms on my coil. VW here matters, and only here for me. Except, you can't set VW on the Billet Box
. This means I have no need anywhere for VW.
Modern designed DC converters typically run 90% to 97% efficiently and it isn't just a set amount but depends on the battery voltage and the output voltage. Generally the closer the 2 are to each other the higher the efficiency.
Just recieved my first mech mod yesterday, and vaping it today. It will NOT be my ADV, but it is nice for an ADV. I chose a caravella clone from Fasttech ($20) a month ago. There are some differences between that, and say, my Vamos.
1: My mech with a nimbus has a warmer vape with dual coil than with my Vamo single coil.
2: I did do a safe build with two 1.2Ώ coils and a 20a battery. 1.2Ώ/2=.6Ώ using the Ohms law calclulator, that build draws 7a on a full charge... Goal was to put at least 10 watts per coil which is what I usually use on my Vamo. So, that build is a good backup build.
3: This mech mod takes flat top batteries only. I didn't know that when I ordered, but I did know I would need higher amp rated batteries when I ordered, so I got a 20a battery. glad it was flat top. Itis a built in safety for me, since I cannot even try it with my current low amp batteries.. they simply will not fit.
4: My dripping liquid was origianally used single coil. with my mech mod, it seriously makes a huge throat hit.. too huge.
Price, well that is debatable. mech mods are simple by design, and should be more inexpensive, but to get a stylish or designer one, you'll pay as much, if not more, for the mech mod.
1: My mech with a nimbus has a warmer vape with dual coil than with my Vamo single coil.
2: I did do a safe build with two 1.2Ώ coils and a 20a battery. 1.2Ώ/2=.6Ώ using the Ohms law calclulator, that build draws 7a on a full charge... Goal was to put at least 10 watts per coil which is what I usually use on my Vamo. So, that build is a good backup build.
3: This mech mod takes flat top batteries only. I didn't know that when I ordered, but I did know I would need higher amp rated batteries when I ordered, so I got a 20a battery. glad it was flat top. Itis a built in safety for me, since I cannot even try it with my current low amp batteries.. they simply will not fit.
4: My dripping liquid was origianally used single coil. with my mech mod, it seriously makes a huge throat hit.. too huge.
Price, well that is debatable. mech mods are simple by design, and should be more inexpensive, but to get a stylish or designer one, you'll pay as much, if not more, for the mech mod.
Pick one. Tell me what ohm it is and what volts you use on it; the Power in that case is volts-squared / ohms.
If you use 1.6 ohm on one rba with 4 volts, and 2.5 ohm on an RDA with 5 volts, you'd find it useful to know that BOTH of them are running at 10 watts; suddenly you don't need to remember to use 1.6 ohm and 4 volts with the rba and 2.5 ohm and 5 volts with the rda because it's actually a whole lot easier to just know that you like to vape around 10 watts.
As for the power adjusting the voltage; if the mod is set for 10 watts, when you put the rba on it with 1.6 ohms, the mod sets the volts to 4 volts in order to get 10 watts, and when you take that off and put on the rda with 2.5 ohm, the mod sets the voltage to 5 volts.
I do not think you prefer that your voltage keeps droping while you vape? If you set the voltage with vv, then you are using consistent power drain.
No. It means the voltage changes if you change the topper with one of different resistance.
Edyl... the point of a Provari is there is no drain
. It's consistent from your first vape to your last on that battery.On a mech, you can't control anything anyway, the battery level controls it.
So the only competition in regulated is Provari vs DNA, and what's the difference if you set it and forget it on both... except you can throw your Provari out the window, run over it with your car, then pick it up, throw away your atomizer because you destroyed it, screw another atomizer on and vape.
Edyl... the point of a Provari is there is no drain
On a mech, you can't control anything anyway, the battery level controls it.
So the only competition in regulated is Provari vs DNA, and what's the difference if you set it and forget it on both... except you can throw your Provari out the window, run over it with your car, then pick it up, throw away your atomizer because you destroyed it, screw another atomizer on and vape.
1: I have no idea why you are bring up provari or dna. They have nothing to do with the point.
2: You said:
You are misunderstanding something, and therefore I attempted to correct this misunderstanding with:
Apparently that did not help.
You said
No: if you set the power, the voltage remains at 1 value as the battery drains, unless you change the topper.
- Status
Similar threads
