Mech Mod Not Firing

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Uniqu3Fr3ak

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Jun 7, 2020
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Hi guys little new here and looking for some advice because I’m at a loss. I recently spent a lot of time learning my battery safety and ohms law so I could make the transition to mech mods which I’ve wanted to do for a while and a couple days ago bought myself *The Vert Mod* by unicorn Vapes also with their own RDA the Original *Unicorn RDA* I don’t know if this makes any difference but I have the both in BRASS too, I also bought 2 Samsung 30T batteries and tested them when they came with a multimeter to make sure they were all good.

Now Yesterday I put my first ever RDA together with this set up with a single 0.33ohm coil pre built, out it all together and fired perfectly, I then proceeded to make sure the coil was heating properly ect and wicked and juiced and it worked fine for what I remember being 10-15 puffs until I had to nip out. Once I got back later I was excited to try and put my first dual coil build together after successfully put a single together and proceeded to do what I did with the single coils ect after getting it together did also check the atomiser with a multimeter as well and was reading just under 0.2ohm which from a calculator online and on my own worked out that on a Samsung 30t dusk coil 0.33ohm coming out at 0.165omh would leave me nice 20-27% headroom on the battery after I got the coils heating properly I wicked again and this is were my issues started it worked for about 5-6 puffs and then sorta died slowly as if the battery had ran out of charge kinda? Stuck the other batter in and it didn’t even fire took the battery’s out and looking to make sure nothing had gone wrong I looked online a little believed I had flooded the my firs RDA with not knowing how much juice to drip *with it being my first RDA* so I proceeded to take it all apart clean it the best I could put it back together and also changed from dual coils back to one for the time being just to also make sure there was no split or little nick in the coils.

and I’m not at a loss I’ve cleaned it the best I could yesterday and this morning righted evrything yo charged the 510 positive pin with the spare I received still no go tested both batteries for nicks or breaks and dints and there isn’t any the batteries are also still both reading good on the muktimeter at 4.2v and are connecting with the button and the atomiser and I’m just stuck :/ ??

sorry it was long but I wanted to give all the info I had on this. Any help would be amazing pls thankyou
 

sonicbomb

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Sounds like you are already on the right track with the actions you have taken.
It's a process of elimination. You have already checked the batteries independently.
You need to check the atomizer on a resistance meter or with a multimeter to make sure there is a good electrical circuit.
You then need to check mod thoroughly to make sure physically all the points of contact are secure and clean.
Try reassembling the mod and atomizer without a coil or a battery, and testing the connectivity from the positive pole to the negative pole with the switch actuated.
Flooding the RDA should not lead to a short as it is not electrically conductive.

Be systematic and logical in your approach. It's not magic, it's electricity, which follows understood rules.
 

DavidOck

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And the sites I looked at, since I don't have that mech, all said "hybrid." As normal, manufacturers don't bother being consistent in naming, either...

Features:
  • Solid Brass Construction
  • Currently available in smooth Matte Black or Black Textured Paint Finishes
  • It measures 26mm at the top and bottom and is 28mm at its widest.
  • Comes with 2 sets of Replaceable Beauty Rings.
  • Textured finish includes black textured and brass rings.
  • Matte finish includes matte black and stainless rings
  • Silver Plated Constant Contact Switch
  • Hybrid 510 Connector
 

Ben85

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The main bonus of mechs is there is very little to go wrong. Either there is an issue with your build, or the switch is not making contact, or the 510 is not making contact with the battery. There isn’t really anything else.

Assuming the 510 is making contact (unless the pin is very short or the battery is rattling) it’s either your switch or your build. Switches generally don’t just stop working, they usually become less effective over time. So my money would be on your build.

A pic would help.
 

sonicbomb

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all said "hybrid." As normal, manufacturers don't bother being consistent in naming, either
One of the main points (if I remember correctly) of the original discussion was that a 'true' hybrid is relatively safe. The direct to battery style of 510 that is most commonly associated with the hybrid description has some very serious safety issues. The testing I did with this style of connector did not show any appreciable decrease in voltage drop, which is the main selling point. It is as far as I know cheaper to manufacture and offers what appears to be a strong selling point.

- if your topper has a insufficiently long positive 510 pin, you can get a short.
- if your battery positive contact has a concave bend then you can get a short.

I won't use one.
 

dripster

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Just to be pedantic: It is a pin-less, direct to battery 510 connection. (faux hybrid)

A true "hybrid" has NO 510 threading and will have no ability to attach any 510 threaded topper.
A hybrid topper is attached using the threading of the battery tube body.
View attachment 889687


Cheers
I
It is a true hybrid mech because, despite the mech comes with a 510 threaded top cap, the top cap can always be removed. The same also applies to, for example, the Timesvape Dreamer mod. The Ardent RDA comes with a removable base so, if you own the Dreamer mod, all you have to do is remove the base from the Ardent RDA and remove the top cap from the Dreamer mod. For another example, if you own the Broadside mod or the Admiral mod, then if you also have the Culverin RDA, you can remove the beauty ring from the bottom of the Culverin RDA and remove the top cap from the Broadside mod or from the Admiral mod. There's a multitude of tube mechs that come with a threaded disc in the top. They're all true hybrid mechs also. That's just because nobody is forcing you to use the disc. You might not be able to find a hybrid atomizer that will fit on the mod after you remove the top cap or disc, but that doesn't change the fact that the mod is a true hybrid, when you could always decide to let someone build a hybrid atomizer that actually does fit. That is, if you are able to waste enough money.
 
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DaveOno

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to the OP. (remember him? the one with the problem?)
regardless of what mod it is, these checks should work for any mech mod.
Put the bat in, without the atomizer. Hit the button and check for 4 volts at the 510 center positive and the threads (negative).
Next, take the atomizer and check resistance from the corresponding points, 510 center and threads.
Next, take the coils off, put the atty on the mod, hit the button, and you should have 4 volts between a set of contacts where you would attach the coil. And then check the other set of coil contacts.

And with all things vaping. Usually just a little past "finger tight" is enough. You are NOT torquing lug nuts on a truck. Many of the seals, grommets and insulators are quite tight on the clearances. Too much tightening, and it can short, leak, break a connection.

But testing through a SIMPLE electric circuit takes a bit of logic, no assumptions. You'll find it.

Or has this OP done the one and done gone?
 

dripster

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One of the main points (if I remember correctly) of the original discussion was that a 'true' hybrid is relatively safe. The direct to battery style of 510 that is most commonly associated with the hybrid description has some very serious safety issues.
Even a regulated mod has some very serious safety issues if you don't know how to properly use it.
The testing I did with this style of connector did not show any appreciable decrease in voltage drop, which is the main selling point.
That depends. There are a lot of manufacturers out there who don't even make the claim that the reason why they made it a faux hybrid was to decrease the voltage drop, let alone use that for the main selling point. A true hybrid connection, due to it using a larger diameter for the screw threads (and/or the matching hybrid atomizer using a larger positive contact surface area, as is the case with the Ardent RDA, for example), can have less voltage drop than the best direct-to-battery 510, at least if the larger diameter screw threads are sufficiently lengthy and/or are sufficiently deep such that the resulting contact surface area is larger, although the quality of the machining (or lack thereof) also plays a part. Often times you'll find that the main selling point is just the fact there are fewer screw threads for you to have to always keep cleaning.
It is as far as I know cheaper to manufacture and offers what appears to be a strong selling point.
I don't blame manufacturers for familiarizing theirself with customers' demands or preferences. Freedom of choice...
- if your topper has a insufficiently long positive 510 pin, you can get a short.
If the 510 on your atomizer has an insufficiently protruding center pin, you can keep your atomizer because I won't use it, and, even if you pay me to use it, I still won't do it.
- if your battery positive contact has a concave bend then you can get a short.
Now you are assuming that the battery orientation will necessarily always be positive up. With the Unicorn Vert, that would be the orientation to use, but there exist plenty of other direct-to-battery mechs that are the opposite, and, a battery that has any kind of bend is a battery that should never be used in anything excepting only the battery recycle bin, anyway in the first place so...
I won't use one.
I'll use one if it's a decent quality one, not one that suddenly refuses to work for some certain reason that's too obfuscated to simply identify.
 
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dripster

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I don't remember the details, but if it's a first generation Vert, there were some funky issues with that switch which is not supposed to be user serviceable. A ball type contact or something.

They put out a second version with a different switch.
On 21 January 2020 they also put out the B3 (i.e., batch 3), which has a new font, branding and some minor fixes. I have no idea what are these minor fixes... could be purely in the cosmetics, could be also something else, but from what I gather, the button struggles to fire correctly if no electrical grease is present on the ball-shaped contact and underneath the 4 pie-shaped segments that make up the bottom contact of the switch. In any event, the switch is definitely supposed to be user serviceable. Navigate to 4:19 in the video below to see in vulgar detail how this thing works.

 

Tralfaz

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Hi guys little new here and looking for some advice because I’m at a loss. I recently spent a lot of time learning my battery safety and ohms law so I could make the transition to mech mods which I’ve wanted to do for a while and a couple days ago bought myself *The Vert Mod* by unicorn Vapes also with their own RDA the Original *Unicorn RDA* I don’t know if this makes any difference but I have the both in BRASS too, I also bought 2 Samsung 30T batteries and tested them when they came with a multimeter to make sure they were all good.

Now Yesterday I put my first ever RDA together with this set up with a single 0.33ohm coil pre built, out it all together and fired perfectly, I then proceeded to make sure the coil was heating properly ect and wicked and juiced and it worked fine for what I remember being 10-15 puffs until I had to nip out. Once I got back later I was excited to try and put my first dual coil build together after successfully put a single together and proceeded to do what I did with the single coils ect after getting it together did also check the atomiser with a multimeter as well and was reading just under 0.2ohm which from a calculator online and on my own worked out that on a Samsung 30t dusk coil 0.33ohm coming out at 0.165omh would leave me nice 20-27% headroom on the battery after I got the coils heating properly I wicked again and this is were my issues started it worked for about 5-6 puffs and then sorta died slowly as if the battery had ran out of charge kinda? Stuck the other batter in and it didn’t even fire took the battery’s out and looking to make sure nothing had gone wrong I looked online a little believed I had flooded the my firs RDA with not knowing how much juice to drip *with it being my first RDA* so I proceeded to take it all apart clean it the best I could put it back together and also changed from dual coils back to one for the time being just to also make sure there was no split or little nick in the coils.

and I’m not at a loss I’ve cleaned it the best I could yesterday and this morning righted evrything yo charged the 510 positive pin with the spare I received still no go tested both batteries for nicks or breaks and dints and there isn’t any the batteries are also still both reading good on the muktimeter at 4.2v and are connecting with the button and the atomiser and I’m just stuck :/ ??

sorry it was long but I wanted to give all the info I had on this. Any help would be amazing pls thankyou
Contact Unicorn Vapes about your problem. There was an issue with the switch in the first run where the pin can become lose or maladjusted causing it to not make proper contact. They have corrected this issue in the last run and will most likely replace the switch for you or just send you a new Vert.
 

DaveOno

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Not for nutin, the 510 connection that is so popular in vaping sucks.

Back in the cig-a-lik days, or the smaller diameter Ego's, it was ok, served it's purpose.

But with the wider attys, it is just ridiculously too small. IIRC, Provari came out with a larger threaded system, proprietary, I think, just before they went away. I thought this was a huge improvement, better engineered for strength and connectivity.

But it amazes me, with the large size of some attys, and the big currents, that most makers still utilize the horrid 510.

(as I vape my naughty mini, with, yes, you guessed it, a 510)

:)
 
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