mech mod question
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Protanks wont work on either the nemisis or the bear brass mods. This is because the 510 connection is completely enclosed in the casing, restricting air flow to the protank airholes which are situated just above the threads. The only kanger tank that would work on them is the aerotank.
A good, cheap mech which would work with protanks is the Kamry k101.
To be honest, for the purpose of just using protanks, a mech mod is pointless for you, especially if you dont build your own coils. Mech mods are are not variable. They have a single output, whatever the battery can supply, between 4.2 and 3.7 volts depending on battery charge. The attraction of mech mods is that they are not restricted. You can use whatever resistance coil you want on them, making them suitable for sub ohm builds.
A good, cheap mech which would work with protanks is the Kamry k101.
To be honest, for the purpose of just using protanks, a mech mod is pointless for you, especially if you dont build your own coils. Mech mods are are not variable. They have a single output, whatever the battery can supply, between 4.2 and 3.7 volts depending on battery charge. The attraction of mech mods is that they are not restricted. You can use whatever resistance coil you want on them, making them suitable for sub ohm builds.
You also need to know a lot and I mean a lot about battery safety as Mech Mods are just a tube with a battery and tank. They have no kind of protection built into them. Can be dangerous unless you really study up on them. They are mainly used by drippers who are cloud chasers. Not meant for chain vaping. You can add a kick to them for some safety. Good luck & VAPE ON
Mechanical mods do nothing for you - you have to be good enough at making coils to alter the vape you want. They are not regulated, there are no electronics, so there is no protection.
That last sentence means there is nothing to stop you using an atomizer with a fault in it. It is all down to your knowledge and ability.
If that sounds onerous and a lot of responsibility - it is!
On the other hand, there is less to go wrong with them and they are sturdier and will survive being dropped usually. If you don't know much about batteries and coils then read up on it a good deal first - there are plenty of resources on here.
T
That last sentence means there is nothing to stop you using an atomizer with a fault in it. It is all down to your knowledge and ability.
If that sounds onerous and a lot of responsibility - it is!
On the other hand, there is less to go wrong with them and they are sturdier and will survive being dropped usually. If you don't know much about batteries and coils then read up on it a good deal first - there are plenty of resources on here.
T
Those are mechanical mods. Basically a battery holder with no electronic processor to be able to adjust your voltage/wattage. Your vaping experience with a mechanical mod will dictated by the fixed voltage of the battery (3.7 volts) and the resistance of your heating coil.
The vapor will gradually decrease in quality as you vape, as the battery voltage declines during use.
Now, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but many feel the mechanical mods look more aesthetically pleasing to the eye, and they are also generally more durably built than many regulated (VV/VW) mods. Provari's excluded.
Back in the day, all we had were mechanical mods. Some people figured out they could stack smaller batteries to increase voltage. When regulated mods became available, they became the rage because now you could adjust the voltage to your taste and flavors, and not have to stack batteries to experience higher voltage vapor.
Recently, mechanical mods are making a comeback. Someone figured out that you could run a DIY sub-ohm coil on a mechanical and rebuildable atomizer and make huge clouds of vapor.
To answer your question, yes you can use your protanks on a mechanical mod, although you may need to use lower resistance coils to gain the same effect you were experiencing with your MVP.
The vapor will gradually decrease in quality as you vape, as the battery voltage declines during use.
Now, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but many feel the mechanical mods look more aesthetically pleasing to the eye, and they are also generally more durably built than many regulated (VV/VW) mods. Provari's excluded.
Back in the day, all we had were mechanical mods. Some people figured out they could stack smaller batteries to increase voltage. When regulated mods became available, they became the rage because now you could adjust the voltage to your taste and flavors, and not have to stack batteries to experience higher voltage vapor.
Recently, mechanical mods are making a comeback. Someone figured out that you could run a DIY sub-ohm coil on a mechanical and rebuildable atomizer and make huge clouds of vapor.
To answer your question, yes you can use your protanks on a mechanical mod, although you may need to use lower resistance coils to gain the same effect you were experiencing with your MVP.
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Mechanical mods are unregulated and typically work better with low ohm builds/sub ohm builds, and in my opinion, they also work best with rba's. In the long run, if you buy a high quality mechanical mod, it will last a very long time, they're pretty durable. Aesthetically, I prefer how mechanical mods look vs. something like a Provari, but that's personal preference.
Compared to VV mods, if you buy a mechanical mod you'll need a multimeter to measure resistance, etc. because there isn't built-in circuit protection. You'll also need to check your batteries throughout the day to avoid draining your batteries.
As for compatibility, you can use a protank on a mechanical mod. The Nemesis for example, is compatible with any device with 510 threading (like the protank).
Compared to VV mods, if you buy a mechanical mod you'll need a multimeter to measure resistance, etc. because there isn't built-in circuit protection. You'll also need to check your batteries throughout the day to avoid draining your batteries.
As for compatibility, you can use a protank on a mechanical mod. The Nemesis for example, is compatible with any device with 510 threading (like the protank).
Hmm seems like it might be a bit over my head at this time. I personally love the way they look. With that said, I don't know a thing about building a coil. And the last thing I need is a safety issue. Thank you all! Someone needs to come out with a VV mod that looks like a mechanical. I just love the brass ones!
And the last thing I need is a safety issue. Thank you all! Someone needs to come out with a VV mod that looks like a mechanical. I just love the brass ones!Mech mods allow you to run sub-ohm coils, where as your VV won't. I personally only use mech mods because I love to tinker.
not true. I used my kanger protank 3 on my nemesis religiously until the nemesis broke. the air channels were just above the beginning of the threads, and the channels in the base of the tank were right over the "dip" in the top of the nemesis to give the perfect draw (imo)
This is correct. Nemesis top cap has built-in airflow controller which can be turned to adjust it. Hence, it can actually draw better than some of other mods including VV mod.
This is response to OP:
All the important points about mech mods were covered here, thanks to great members. However, we do need to be fair about the mech mods. Mech mods aren't that different from tube VV mods. Only difference is the regulator used in VV/VW mods. Hence, if you put a kick in the mech mod, it essentially becomes a VV mod. Danger of mech mod only comes into play if someone intentionally pushes the limit of the battery (despite countless objections). If you put a typical carto/clearo topper with stock atomizer on mech mod, it is as safe as any other VV/VW mod.
Having said that, there are lot more "parts" to deal with on mech mod. Tubes, firing switch, spring, top cap, adjustable center pin.. etc. Also, you have to be able to tell when the battery is running low by the drop in vapor production. If you continue to vape with low battery, you will ruin the battery. Also, you need more frequent maintenance. Cleaning and adjusting all the time. Lastly, even with a kick, it is a pain to adjust the voltage/wattage. This is especially important for those who just start vaping. Mech users know what resistance they want to run against the raw battery power and they build the coil for that. If you are using stock atomizer head, you don't have that option and forced to adjust the voltage via the kick. Imagine doing priming and slow ramp to find the sweet spot on the atomizer head. You will spend more time threading the tube to adjust the kick than vaping!
Bottom-line is, yes, it is fine to use mech mods with clearomizer/cartomizer tanks. But it is awfully awkward and inconvenient and comes with some learning curve. So, know what you are getting into.
No need, and no safety protections on them. Not something for the inexperienced.
Hmm seems like it might be a bit over my head at this time. I personally love the way they look. With that said, I don't know a thing about building a coil.
How's this grab ya:
The Nemesis is a great first Mech mod, even for someone using a changeable atomizer. Reason being, it accepts a kick in all battery configurations. If you like the mechs, but aren't into or ready for building coils, a Kick 2 and a Nemesis will provide every bit as consistent vape as any high end variable mod. The Evolv Kick 2, is a slide in module, that can be adjusted from 7-15 watts accepts build of .5-3.3 ohms, has all the protection of a regulated, and provides a damn fine vape. As stated, the Nemi also has a air flow control top, it's adjustable 510 connector allows any atomizer to sit flush on top. Can get a Hcigar nemi clone for about $40, an Evolv Kick 2 for $45, so for under $100 you have a regulated VW mechanical. Then if you choose, and have learned the way of the rba, and want to visit the sub ohm zone, all you have to do is remove the kick and there you are. I feel that the Nemi clone and the Kick 2 combo, is one of the best values for any vapor who wants something good looking, a consistent vape, and has the ability to go where few choose to explore.
The kick does require the use of IMR high drain batteries, but one can use button top or flat tops with it. Tis the perfect set up for an intermediate vaper who may want to go advanced some day.
The kick does require the use of IMR high drain batteries, but one can use button top or flat tops with it. Tis the perfect set up for an intermediate vaper who may want to go advanced some day.
How's this grab ya:
Looks kinda like a GE cannon from an A-20 Warthog!!!
Probably HITS like one, too!!!
Happy (vaping) Trailos!
Hmm seems like it might be a bit over my head at this time. I personally love the way they look. With that said, I don't know a thing about building a coil.
There are some ways to achieve this. You don't get a screen, but you do get safety features and Variable Wattage or Variable Voltage (depending on unit choice). These, combined with the right battery can regulate most any 18mm or larger (diameter) mod (provided it's not already regulated).
Evolv Kick 2
Artisan Crown 2.0
Smoktech Kick
Sigelei Stomp
For mods that will only extend for 18650 batteries, you'd need to step down to 18500, 18490 or 18350 batteries so there is room for the Kick. Examples of this type mod are 18650 Telescoping models, or single tube models that don't offer extension rings or alternative end caps.
Quite a few of the mods that are configured by exchanging extension sleeves can also kick 18650 batteries. I.E. Nemisis, Chi Yu, Other 18350 mods that come with both an 18500 and 18650 extension ring. The trick there is to simply use both the 18500 and 18650 extension rings. Also quite a few mods can be extended one battery size at a time by just adding separately sold identically sized extension rings (I.E. the Bolt).
These days a few mods are coming out that use the 26mm (diameter) batteries. To use a kick with one of these you'll need to make sure it comes with a kick sleeve adapter (or be able to build something on your own).
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