Mech Mod Safe Vaping

[Spoon96]

Hi All,

Been vaping ard 2 months now and won a few mods.
now I am more into mech mod but I dun understand the fundamentals of it very well.
I tried to dig and read into it but dun understand very much as I m not an engineering student
Hope some help here:


1) mech mods allows me to go sub ohm compared to VV or VW device and that's y I am kinda into it as I am building ard 0.6~0.8ohm
2) all people are mentioning abt a good battery for mech mods is for safe vaping, care to elaborate more? what battery should I get? Sony VTC5 is recommended for mech mods, any other batterys models? I dun mind spending abit more if safety matters. what actually happen if u uses a lousy battery or faulty battery?
3) any other things I should be taking note of besides battery?

Thanks in advanced !!

Spoon

 

[Spoon96]

Hi All,

Been vaping ard 2 months now and won a few mods.
now I am more into mech mod but I dun understand the fundamentals of it very well.
I tried to dig and read into it but dun understand very much as I m not an engineering student
Hope some help here:

1) mech mods allows me to go sub ohm compared to VV or VW device and that's y I am kinda into it as I am building ard 0.6~0.8ohm
2) all people are mentioning abt a good battery for mech mods is for safe vaping, care to elaborate more? what battery should I get? Sony VTC5 is recommended for mech mods, any other batterys models? I dun mind spending abit more if safety matters. what actually happen if u uses a lousy battery or faulty battery?
3) any other things I should be taking note of besides battery?

Thanks in advanced !!

Spoon

Been vaping ard 2 months now and GOT* a few mods.

 

[zizibar]

Hi, i'm recently into mech mods too. I highly recommended that u get some AW IMR batts. It comes in different sizes n safe too. For batt charger, i recommend nitecore i2 intelligent charger. You gotta treat your batteries with respect, keep it safe and charge it under supervision. Watch some youtube videos for coiling techniques n stuff. Vape safe!

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

 

[Neok]

without a good batt... say bye bye to your beautiful face... and your silky hand/palm
get a unprotected batt for mech mod...

 

[TheKiwi]

1) you should be building your attys to suit your vaping needs, instead of the other way round: thinking you need to use a mech just because your builds are sub-ohm. A 1.3 ohms coil is well capable of giving you a very very good vape

2) if you're using a mech, then I'm assuming you know Ohms law. (If not, ask away). At 0.6 ohms, if we neglect voltage drop (unrealistic), you'll pull 7 amps. Most of the commonly known UNPROTECTED high drain batteries will have a minimum of 10A continuous drain capacity, so you'll be fine. This includes AW IMR 18490 and 18650, Panasonic NCR18650PF/PD (ridiculously good batteries btw), MNKE 18650 (20A limit), Sony VTC3/4/5 (30A max continuous), Efest 18650 Purple wrapper (it's labeled at 35A, but that's for max pulse, not continuous. I can't remember if max continuous is 25 or 30A). Bear in mind that MANY (not all) 18350 batteries will NOT be able to handle a 7A draw. Avoid ICR batteries. Just. Don't. Lol.

In terms of what happens if you're using a crappy battery.... In the best case scenario, you experience REALLY crappy performance, and end up wasting your money. In the worst case scenario, your battery fails and either vents or enters thermal runaway mode. Let's just say you don't want boiling hot corrosive material splattering all over.


3) I'm gonna preface this by saying that I have no issues with subohming and i do it too. But it's important to recognize the limitations. If you do end up progressing to super sub ohm (0.2 ohms region), understand that your normal multimeter or ohm meter cannot guarantee to give you a accurate reading. A difference between a 0.1 and 0.2 or 0.2 and 0.3 ohms coil is HUGE And can have huge repercussions.

4) always keep a lookout for your switch. When you're throwing it into your pocket or bag with other stuff, it's a good idea to check on it once in a while to make sure it's locked. Sometimes the locking mechanism gets old and unlocks easily and unknowingly and ends up firing. Happened to me earlier this year at Puerto Rico. I was lucky to escape with just a ruined atty and battery.

5) conduct routine maintenance and check of your mod, especially all the delrin/plastic insulators around areas like the 510 connection. VERY very important. The last thing you want is check and make sure everything is ok on your atty, only to get screwed over by an internal short on the mod.

6) if the lower portion of the tube or especially the firing switch gets hot, stop using the mod immediately. It's a tell tale sign of an issue either with the battery or the mod.

Do note that of course if you're subohming and hitting 20 - 40 watts, your atty IS gonna get warm/hot, and so the top of your mod tube will also get warm. You shouldn't have to panic. But of course you shouldn't decide to chain vape for an hour straight and let the whole mod heat up luh. In general, batteries + heat = bad combination.

And lastly to end my incessant nagging, keep your mech dry


ETA: btw I'm very very glad that you take safety seriously and bother to ask for clarifications. We need folks to be like that

Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[Sigmazxcs]

1) you should be building your attys to suit your vaping needs, instead of the other way round: thinking you need to use a mech just because your builds are sub-ohm. A 1.3 ohms coil is well capable of giving you a very very good vape

2) if you're using a mech, then I'm assuming you know Ohms law. (If not, ask away). At 0.6 ohms, if we neglect voltage drop (unrealistic), you'll pull 7 amps. Most of the commonly known UNPROTECTED high drain batteries will have a minimum of 10A continuous drain capacity, so you'll be fine. This includes AW IMR 18490 and 18650, Panasonic NCR18650PF/PD (ridiculously good batteries btw), MNKE 18650 (20A limit), Sony VTC3/4/5 (30A max continuous), Efest 18650 Purple wrapper (it's labeled at 35A, but that's for max pulse, not continuous. I can't remember if max continuous is 25 or 30A). Bear in mind that MANY (not all) 18350 batteries will NOT be able to handle a 7A draw. Avoid ICR batteries. Just. Don't. Lol.

In terms of what happens if you're using a crappy battery.... In the best case scenario, you experience REALLY crappy performance, and end up wasting your money. In the worst case scenario, your battery fails and either vents or enters thermal runaway mode. Let's just say you don't want boiling hot corrosive material splattering all over.


3) I'm gonna preface this by saying that I have no issues with subohming and i do it too. But it's important to recognize the limitations. If you do end up progressing to super sub ohm (0.2 ohms region), understand that your normal multimeter or ohm meter cannot guarantee to give you a accurate reading. A difference between a 0.1 and 0.2 or 0.2 and 0.3 ohms coil is HUGE And can have huge repercussions.

4) always keep a lookout for your switch. When you're throwing it into your pocket or bag with other stuff, it's a good idea to check on it once in a while to make sure it's locked. Sometimes the locking mechanism gets old and unlocks easily and unknowingly and ends up firing. Happened to me earlier this year at Puerto Rico. I was lucky to escape with just a ruined atty and battery.

5) conduct routine maintenance and check of your mod, especially all the delrin/plastic insulators around areas like the 510 connection. VERY very important. The last thing you want is check and make sure everything is ok on your atty, only to get screwed over by an internal short on the mod.

6) if the lower portion of the tube or especially the firing switch gets hot, stop using the mod immediately. It's a tell tale sign of an issue either with the battery or the mod.

Do note that of course if you're subohming and hitting 20 - 40 watts, your atty IS gonna get warm/hot, and so the top of your mod tube will also get warm. You shouldn't have to panic. But of course you shouldn't decide to chain vape for an hour straight and let the whole mod heat up luh. In general, batteries + heat = bad combination.

And lastly to end my incessant nagging, keep your mech dry


ETA: btw I'm very very glad that you take safety seriously and bother to ask for clarifications. We need folks to be like that

Burping out loud using Tapatalk

Thank god I have a dna30 ready for my use when I return from Taiwan. Dual 18650 dna30 here I come! Time to retire my nemesis, been pushing it a little far with 45W output at 3.7v...

 

[gutsboy]

... 45w nemmy...

 

[Darkangel]

Thank god I have a dna30 ready for my use when I return from Taiwan. Dual 18650 dna30 here I come! Time to retire my nemesis, been pushing it a little far with 45W output at 3.7v...

You also fast hand fast leg and can't resist not to get one. Join me!

 

[KunJus]

Thank god I have a dna30 ready for my use when I return from Taiwan. Dual 18650 dna30 here I come! Time to retire my nemesis, been pushing it a little far with 45W output at 3.7v...

Hmmmmm..a Twinny?

 

[Spoon96]

1) you should be building your attys to suit your vaping needs, instead of the other way round: thinking you need to use a mech just because your builds are sub-ohm. A 1.3 ohms coil is well capable of giving you a very very good vape

2) if you're using a mech, then I'm assuming you know Ohms law. (If not, ask away). At 0.6 ohms, if we neglect voltage drop (unrealistic), you'll pull 7 amps. Most of the commonly known UNPROTECTED high drain batteries will have a minimum of 10A continuous drain capacity, so you'll be fine. This includes AW IMR 18490 and 18650, Panasonic NCR18650PF/PD (ridiculously good batteries btw), MNKE 18650 (20A limit), Sony VTC3/4/5 (30A max continuous), Efest 18650 Purple wrapper (it's labeled at 35A, but that's for max pulse, not continuous. I can't remember if max continuous is 25 or 30A). Bear in mind that MANY (not all) 18350 batteries will NOT be able to handle a 7A draw. Avoid ICR batteries. Just. Don't. Lol.

In terms of what happens if you're using a crappy battery.... In the best case scenario, you experience REALLY crappy performance, and end up wasting your money. In the worst case scenario, your battery fails and either vents or enters thermal runaway mode. Let's just say you don't want boiling hot corrosive material splattering all over.


3) I'm gonna preface this by saying that I have no issues with subohming and i do it too. But it's important to recognize the limitations. If you do end up progressing to super sub ohm (0.2 ohms region), understand that your normal multimeter or ohm meter cannot guarantee to give you a accurate reading. A difference between a 0.1 and 0.2 or 0.2 and 0.3 ohms coil is HUGE And can have huge repercussions.

4) always keep a lookout for your switch. When you're throwing it into your pocket or bag with other stuff, it's a good idea to check on it once in a while to make sure it's locked. Sometimes the locking mechanism gets old and unlocks easily and unknowingly and ends up firing. Happened to me earlier this year at Puerto Rico. I was lucky to escape with just a ruined atty and battery.

5) conduct routine maintenance and check of your mod, especially all the delrin/plastic insulators around areas like the 510 connection. VERY very important. The last thing you want is check and make sure everything is ok on your atty, only to get screwed over by an internal short on the mod.

6) if the lower portion of the tube or especially the firing switch gets hot, stop using the mod immediately. It's a tell tale sign of an issue either with the battery or the mod.

Do note that of course if you're subohming and hitting 20 - 40 watts, your atty IS gonna get warm/hot, and so the top of your mod tube will also get warm. You shouldn't have to panic. But of course you shouldn't decide to chain vape for an hour straight and let the whole mod heat up luh. In general, batteries + heat = bad combination.

And lastly to end my incessant nagging, keep your mech dry


ETA: btw I'm very very glad that you take safety seriously and bother to ask for clarifications. We need folks to be like that

Burping out loud using Tapatalk

Thanks bros for the useful information and feedback.
A few more questions though.
I really dunno ohm's law. I skip physics for my whole of sec sch due to too naughty, teacher dun allow me in class.
Can I say that if I am using VTC4 or VTC5 means I am on the right track for batteries?
What does it actually mean by unprotected battery?
I am also currently coiling at 1.3-1.5ohm as sub ohm is eating juice way too fast in my .... feel, not sure if its true.
I am trying sub ohm as I just wanna try 'super thick and many many many vapour' like those your tube videos
anyway, 'might' be looking at hana clone DNA 30 soon as stock are coming in soon across the 'long bridge'. not as cheap as mech clone though but not sure if flavour is more intense like the reviews in youtube. does vaping at 30 watts gives more flavour? or dna actually can produce more vapour (chasing clouds). Can I say that DNA is an electronic chip set that's is like VV or VW device that's cuts off power supply when they detects is unsafe? so is dna more safe then mech mod?
Guess I am flooding too much questions.
Looking forward to some advice and answers?

Cheers and happy vaping
Spoon

What is ICR?

 

[18sign]

ICR are low drain batteries that are protection and got usually less than 10 AMP draw.

nerdy term " lithium cobalt oxide"

 

[mavieboy]

well get a multimeter to check ur coil and make sure u also dont short your batteries.

 

[wattageous]

Thanks bros for the useful information and feedback.
A few more questions though.
I really dunno ohm's law. I skip physics for my whole of sec sch due to too naughty, teacher dun allow me in class.
Can I say that if I am using VTC4 or VTC5 means I am on the right track for batteries?
What does it actually mean by unprotected battery?
I am also currently coiling at 1.3-1.5ohm as sub ohm is eating juice way too fast in my .... feel, not sure if its true.
I am trying sub ohm as I just wanna try 'super thick and many many many vapour' like those your tube videos
anyway, 'might' be looking at hana clone DNA 30 soon as stock are coming in soon across the 'long bridge'. not as cheap as mech clone though but not sure if flavour is more intense like the reviews in youtube. does vaping at 30 watts gives more flavour? or dna actually can produce more vapour (chasing clouds). Can I say that DNA is an electronic chip set that's is like VV or VW device that's cuts off power supply when they detects is unsafe? so is dna more safe then mech mod?
Guess I am flooding too much questions.
Looking forward to some advice and answers?

Cheers and happy vaping
Spoon

What is ICR?

A lot of spoonfeeding to be done here. Why don't you check some stuff out on google? I'm pretty sure it's easy to find.

 

[Dianhoonho]

A lot of spoonfeeding to be done here. Why don't you check some stuff out on google? I'm pretty sure it's easy to find.

I think the search function is spoilt. It's easy to just ask since there's so many helpful people here.

 

[Darkangel]

I think the search function is spoilt. It's easy to just ask since there's so many helpful people here.

Ha ha that's right! Google Search function down, YouTube down and many other forum down too!

When DNA was first launch and there is so many hypes abt it, all I need to do is google, YouTube and fact finding. That's also include clone DNA hypes. Ask is easy getting answers also easy, once bros here became helpful, all take for granted what the Internet is for.


Sent from Gotham City using Tapatalk

 

[Dianhoonho]

I still remember 6 months ago when I just started, I had to really work for answers and also dig real deep to find out what was the local scene like and what to expect ...

Just a reminder that there was a BIG sweep of local vapers by the men in blue almost a year or so ago...why I'm being such a b1tch and pr1ck is that I'm hoping we remember the lesson and don't go overboard with show-offs, obvious questions/answers and wait another BIG sweep comes in again and we're screwed with the sources and such.

Really appeal to fellow forumers to spare a thought for those of us that don't have a ready way to go over the "Long-Bridge" ....

 

[Spoon96]

okay. no more questions. if not kena left right up down.