Mech mod trouble!!!

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NEDIII

Senior Member
Aug 27, 2014
95
30
McAllen, tx, USA
I was happily vaping on my Panzer mech mod using atomic dripping atty with DUAL micro coils (26 gauge 4 wraps a piece). Battery was charged. I then noticed it wasn't chucking the vape as it previously was. It was sluggish, then it was working fine, sluggish again and continued that way for a while. I decided to rebuild the coils using 24 gauge single mAcro coil. The coil would heat up really slow then the body and button of my panzer got hot, which had NEVER happened before. WHAT GIVES?! is my battery trashed?
 

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ughmassa

Senior Member
Aug 6, 2014
123
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stayton or usa
Yeah I fill up a small tub and take my mod apart... everything apart throw it in for a while. Best to do it overnight but then scrub with a q tip or even better a toothbrush. Then she'll glide back together and hopefully be back together. I doubt its the coil since you seem like you've been doing it a while. I clean mine every week like this. The threads will be just like the day you received it in the mail. Also you can take the 510 pin out and sand off the dingy top layer and she may just work better than ever
 

NEDIII

Senior Member
Aug 27, 2014
95
30
McAllen, tx, USA
are there any nicks in the plastic sleeve covering the battery? sometimes the sleeve gets nicked and exposes the neg part of the battery to the inner portion of the mod, creating a circuit that makes the mod fire even with the button not being pressed....
Now that you mentioned that, earlier in the day I removed the firing button completely with battery still in it, when I would tilt the entire mod from vertical to horizontal it would start to throw vapor out, I thought that was very odd since it wasn't being fired. To answer your question, there are some small lacerations on the sleeve of the battery.
 

NEDIII

Senior Member
Aug 27, 2014
95
30
McAllen, tx, USA
Yeah I fill up a small tub and take my mod apart... everything apart throw it in for a while. Best to do it overnight but then scrub with a q tip or even better a toothbrush. Then she'll glide back together and hopefully be back together. I doubt its the coil since you seem like you've been doing it a while. I clean mine every week like this. The threads will be just like the day you received it in the mail. Also you can take the 510 pin out and sand off the dingy top layer and she may just work better than ever
I'm very new to this, only 2 weeks in. I read up on anything I wish to learn. Could there be a problem with my coil building?
 

Baditude

ECF Guru
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Apr 8, 2012
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Ridgeway, Ohio
I was happily vaping on my Panzer mech mod using atomic dripping atty with DUAL micro coils (26 gauge 4 wraps a piece). Battery was charged. I then noticed it wasn't chucking the vape as it previously was. It was sluggish, then it was working fine, sluggish again and continued that way for a while. I decided to rebuild the coils using 24 gauge single mAcro coil. The coil would heat up really slow then the body and button of my panzer got hot, which had NEVER happened before. WHAT GIVES?! is my battery trashed?
You are using heavier gauge Kanthal wire, so it will naturally take longer to heat up.

3.4 ohms coil is within the amp limit of a Sony VTC5.

A mod's body or fire button should never get hot. This indicates a short either in the coil, atomizer, 510 connector, or fire button. As suggested, disassemble all pieces, clean, and reassemble. Troubleshooting a short can be frustrating; having a digital multimeter helps.

Having a digital multimeter or 510 voltage meter would also allow you to check the voltage, and therefore the health of your battery. It should be between 3.4 - 4.2 volts.
 

Baditude

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Apr 8, 2012
30,394
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Ridgeway, Ohio
Now that you mentioned that, earlier in the day I removed the firing button completely with battery still in it, when I would tilt the entire mod from vertical to horizontal it would start to throw vapor out, I thought that was very odd since it wasn't being fired. To answer your question, there are some small lacerations on the sleeve of the battery.
Nicks in the plastic wrap can allow conduction from the battery to the mod body, creating a short. Probably why the mod was autofiring without the fire button in place.

Without knowing the health of your battery, I wouldn't use that battery again until you have a voltage meter or digital multimeter to measure its voltage.

I also wouldn't put a new battery into the mod and fire it until you figure out what caused the orignal short for certain.
 
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NEDIII

Senior Member
Aug 27, 2014
95
30
McAllen, tx, USA
You are using heavier gauge Kanthal wire, so it will naturally take longer to heat up.

3.4 ohms coil is within the amp limit of a Sony VTC5.

A mod's body or fire button should never get hot. This indicates a short either in the coil, atomizer, 510 connector, or fire button. As suggested, disassemble all pieces, clean, and reassemble. Troubleshooting a short can be frustrating; having a digital multimeter helps.
Having a digital multimeter or 510 voltage meter would also allow you to check the voltage, and therefore the health of your battery. It should be between 3.4 - 4.2 volts.

I've built single macro coils using 24g and it wouldn't take as long as this one did yesterday. It seemed extremely slow from previous builds.
 

Bunnykiller

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
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Nov 17, 2013
17,431
77,270
New Orleans La.
EDIT. it could be a piece of something in there causing issues. Probably not the threads. But dirty threads will cause voltage drop. Sorry I wasn't more specific. I forget how technical and careful in your words you have to be to not be called out.

yup we are out here watching .... BHuhahahahaaa :)
 
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