Mech mods
- Thread starter VoodooZero
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I have nothing at the moment. Im looking at purchasing a nemesis. I don't know anything past that at this point.
Real quick hijack. Has any taken the CGH panny to 11 amps? Was going to do dual twists in an ithaka...what's everyones opinion. I searched hi-low but nothing is posted. Hijacking over. Thx
You don't have to build coils for a mechanical mod. You can use it with a clearomizer, a cartomizer with or without carto tank, or with a disposable dripping atomizer. At the raw battery voltage a mechanical mod provides, you'll probably find something in the 1.5 to 2.2 Ω range that works for you and keeps you off tobacco.
If you want more, then you're going into an advanced area, and yes, you're looking at learning Ohm's Law (even if you use an on-line calculator to make the calculations), and using a meter if you're going to do it safely, even if you purchase pre-wound coils. You'll be looking at using a rebuildable atomizer (RBA), either a rebuildable dripping atomizer or a rebuildable tank-type atomizer, for which you build the coil and wick. There are a few places who sell pre-wound coils, but they're so easy to wind and wick, it's worth doing that yourself. This is NOT Plug and Play, and IMO it's not a good way to begin vaping.
Great explanation, NicoHog! 
My first mod was a mechanical mod. I used clearotanks with it as juice attachments. Clearomizers such as a Kanger Protank, Vision Vivi Nova, or Innokin iClear 30 will work just as well.
The above juice attachments are a low drain on a mechanical mod's battery. It's only when so-called "advanced" vapors use more energy-hungery juice attachments like an RBA that one needs to be concerned about their battery's ability to have enough power. In these instances, using an inappropriate battery can have dangerous consequences.
My first mod was a mechanical mod. I used clearotanks with it as juice attachments. Clearomizers such as a Kanger Protank, Vision Vivi Nova, or Innokin iClear 30 will work just as well.
The above juice attachments are a low drain on a mechanical mod's battery. It's only when so-called "advanced" vapors use more energy-hungery juice attachments like an RBA that one needs to be concerned about their battery's ability to have enough power. In these instances, using an inappropriate battery can have dangerous consequences.
I Have vaping equipment. Just not a mech mod. I think that they look nicer than the normal phallus shaped tube mods, and generally have better reviews on them. Also I hate most electronics. They break quickly for me, and that's just a pain. Another reason to get a mechanical...less reliance on a small computer in my mouth.
Coils don't have amp ratings, but are measured in ohms. Batteries have amp ratings. Coils with different resistance measurements (in ohms) will pull a certain amount of energy (measured in amps) from a battery. If the coils pulls too many amps than what the battery can safely provide, the battery will overheat, self-destruct inside, and have a literal meltdown.
Pre-made coils will need to be tested with a multimeter before using one on a mod. Never trust a coil made by someone other than yourself, and still measure one that you have made, too. Resistance in ohms can change due to a number of factors, so any coil needs to be checked on a regular basis.
In the uk there is a site called "vapeescape" and they suggest using protected batteries in the megneto they are selling. Is this good advice ?
That small computer can keep you safe as a novice vapor. It has protective circuitry to cover most of the mistakes you may make as a novice. It can detect shorts and refuse to fire the coil saving the battery, the mod, and you from danger.
A mechanical mod has NO protections. It's just your battery and you. You have to be able to recognize trouble before it happens. Shorts can be difficult to recognize before trouble starts. Things like a hot fire button, a hot mod, a hot battery indicates something is wrong and will quickly get worse if you continue to use the mod.
There was a time not that long ago when protected ICR batteries were recommended for mods. That day has come and gone. Anyone or anyplace that still recommends protected batteries has not kept up with the science.
With the modern day batteries that are available today, current wisdom is that safer chemistry batteries are safer than protected batteries. These are known as "safe chemistry", "high drain", "unprotected", and more accurately IMR and hybrid batteries.
The reason ICR batteries must use protection circuits in the first place is because they have a volatile (as in flamable) chemistry. Should the primitive protective circuit in an ICR battery fail, the battery may go into "thermal runaway". This means the forceful expulsion of hot gas and flames from the self-destructing battery.
It's interesting that a battery specialty site like Orbtronic now has the following disclaimer, "Protected Li-ion 18650 batteries are made for high performance flashlights, not for e-cig mods."
A further distinction needs to be made. There are "unprotected ICR li-ion" batteries, which should NEVER be used in a mod. These are only used in devices such as laptops and flashlights. These are literally an ICR li-ion battery without a protection circuit.
Battery chemisty and types are admittedly confusing. However, a basic understanding is critical if we are to be safe vapors. I have attempted to simplify the difference of these batteries in my blog.
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?
And for a slightly more technical explanation:
Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries
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I tip my hat to all the members who have contributed to this FANTASTIC thread about safety. 
I've read and researched everything I can, to help other vapors. Members like all here: My Brothers/Sisters are a miracle source of information.
Now the part that's shame on me............
I've got a couple of P+ and 3 Legacy's. The Legacy's I usually kick. (built in protection. Thank you Evol for the kick).
The P+ I got some AW 18500 IC protected and also AW IC Protected 18650's............. I was carrying the 18650 protected and went to lunch. I'd dropped something and my hand brushed the Lil Momma tank on the device. OMG I was burning................ Tore the device apart and layed everything on the table. (Funny part was getting up at Braums, and looking on my hands and knees for the hot spring.)
I'd forgotten to lock the pinky button.............................
Yes I'm lucky.
No I DON'T TRUST A BATTERY THAT SAYS IT'S PROTECTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now I'm sitting and adjusting everything so that a fuse can be placed in along with an IMR battery.
That's why this type of discussion is so necessary. There is a sticky in the forum about all this. Never hurts to be reminded.
I'm still using the same carto and tank. Can't believe it didn't fry the carto. But it did drain the tank. (Boge LR 35mm)).
I've read and researched everything I can, to help other vapors. Members like all here: My Brothers/Sisters are a miracle source of information.
Now the part that's shame on me............
I've got a couple of P+ and 3 Legacy's. The Legacy's I usually kick. (built in protection. Thank you Evol for the kick).
The P+ I got some AW 18500 IC protected and also AW IC Protected 18650's............. I was carrying the 18650 protected and went to lunch. I'd dropped something and my hand brushed the Lil Momma tank on the device. OMG I was burning................ Tore the device apart and layed everything on the table. (Funny part was getting up at Braums, and looking on my hands and knees for the hot spring.)
I'd forgotten to lock the pinky button.............................
Yes I'm lucky.
No I DON'T TRUST A BATTERY THAT SAYS IT'S PROTECTED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now I'm sitting and adjusting everything so that a fuse can be placed in along with an IMR battery.
That's why this type of discussion is so necessary. There is a sticky in the forum about all this. Never hurts to be reminded.
I'm still using the same carto and tank. Can't believe it didn't fry the carto. But it did drain the tank. (Boge LR 35mm)).
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Good statement Sir. I've tried sub ohm, (only down to 0.8ohms). It was WAY to harsh for this old man. I really like the ease and vape of a LR carto on my mechs. Even when I build (which I do quite often with my Reo's), I try and stay around 1.5-2.0 ohms.
In regard to the harshness... it doubles nicotine strength so if you doing 6mg it hits like 12mg
I don't doubt that a bit. Like I said. Way to ruff on this old man. And I usually Vape 18-24 mg.
it was a different head buzzzzzzz
Not quite accurate.
All Reos have a collapsible hot spring in the event of a short or other battery malfunction. The Reos can be safely used down to 0.6 ohms with the AW IMR 18650 1600mah battery, and Rob is working on an upgrade kit to go lower sub ohm safely.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/480713-reo-grand-sub-ohm.html
Where exactly did you find this tidbit of misinformed "knowledge"?
But as an owner of 3 beautiful wonderful fantastic "REO!!!!" ( yea I kinda like my Reo's). It's not really your normal mech. No other mech except my P+ can even compete with the Reo.l
Not yet. I'm not much of a dripper. Thinking about my KFL for the ELA, if they really exist. And been looking at the Russian 91%. Depending on funds this month.
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