mechanical mod and rba.. how to find the sweet spot?

[Ebertshay]

Hi vapers, I have a question about finding the sweet spot with an rba and mech mod. I'll try my best to explain. So with my current setup (evic with 2.2ohm protank) my sweet spot seems to be at 4.1ish volts. My question is... To achieve that sweet spot with a mechanical and rba setup do you just need to build your coil according to whatever volts your battery is? And if I wanted to build a lower ohm coil would I need to purchase a different battery? I don't understand how people can build to such low ohms and not get a burnt taste.
Thanks!

 

[KrisAinTX]

Hi vapers, I have a question about finding the sweet spot with an rba and mech mod. I'll try my best to explain. So with my current setup (evic with 2.2ohm protank) my sweet spot seems to be at 4.1ish volts. My question is... To achieve that sweet spot with a mechanical and rba setup do you just need to build your coil according to whatever volts your battery is? And if I wanted to build a lower ohm coil would I need to purchase a different battery? I don't understand how people can build to such low ohms and not get a burnt taste.
Thanks!

Propper wicking is how you avoid burnt taste Keep the coils wet! You can build low resistance or sub ohm coils and not get burnt hits as long as you don't run them dry.

With a mech you can't regulate your voltage at all, so the coil resistance is important. But as you vape, the voltage from your battery will drop. You can start out at 4.2v and finish up around 3.5v or so, then vapor production will radically decrease and it's time to swap batteries. You don't need different batteries to find a sweet spot.

Everywhere in that band is my sweet spot! As power subtly declines, you get different aspects of a juice. Higher and lower heats will bring different flavor notes to the front of your palate, and you'll get a different experience out of your liquids than vaping in your Protank. The trick is finding the juices that you enjoy all the way through the battery

Vape on!

 

[Ebertshay]

Thanks for the quick response! That all makes sense, but I'm just curious then.. Why does my protank get a burnt taste if the voltage is too high if the wick is staying wet? And what is the point of different resistense on a mech mod if there is no burnt taste as long as it's wicking? Thanks again!

 

[vapero]

when I used my zmax my sweet spot was 4.4v with a 1.8 microcoil at about 11 watts
now that I'm into mechs I vape from .6 to .9 ohms and use the batts from 4.2 to 3.8 volts; thats a wattage range from 30watts to 16 watts and my sweet spot is from 4.2 to 3.9 volts but still the lower floor of this sweet spot range is miles ahead of the sweet spot I used to have with the zmax

 

[vapero]

Thanks for the quick response! That all makes sense, but I'm just curious then.. Why does my protank get a burnt taste if the voltage is too high if the wick is staying wet? And what is the point of different resistense on a mech mod if there is no burnt taste as long as it's wicking? Thanks again!

it isn't wicking all that good and the higher wire gauges heat up really fast

 

[Stonesourlemon]

in a mech you cant change the voltage of the battery, it will start around 4.2v and need to be charged around 3.3v i use aw imr batteries. the way you find the sweet spot is to calculate the wattage you like based of your current voltage preference and resistance of the atomizer you're using. then find out where your resistance would need to be to maintain that wattage at a voltage of 3.7v. that is the continuous output of most ecig batteries. wattage will vary based on where your charge is at, but honestly not by too much. a watt or 2 depending. all of this will vary based on the voltage drop of your mech. but will give you a good rough estimate.

 

[AttyPops]

The ....ohms thing...resistance....varies depending on setup too. It's not quite as simple as doing a standard effective wattage calculation. There's thermodynamics involved in the way the coil is wound and the gauge of the wire, as well as airflow and wicking. Also juice thickness affects wicking.

So basically...you have to mess with it for your particular setup. The heavier the gauge wire (thicker = lower #), the more watts you need to heat it, basically. Then there's microcoil vs standard coil. Normal ohms and normal gauge, and sub ohms.

Get a multimeter to check things out well. Also tests battery voltage. The battery voltage changes over time since it's not regulated so start off different tests at the same voltage so you can compare.

 

[Stonesourlemon]

well yea, theres always going to be several x factors, but doing that calculation should give a good starting point

 

[AttyPops]

Yeah, it's a general calc. But when you get into SLR, all bets are off on that. Well, when comparing 34 ga wire and 28 ga wire (or even 26).

Example, say 8 watts....good for a stock coil. Won't hardly get a 28 or 26 ga wire to heat the liquid (well, not quickly at all). Try it!

Remember voltage decreases too...so I'm not sure what # you want to use for the voltage in the watts calc...but if we use the top-off voltage of 4.2....

Ohms = V squared divided by watts
4.2 x 4.2 / 8 = 2.2 ohm

So wind a 2.2 ohm 26 or 28 ga coil and try it. It'll be a long coil, sure. Remember that the heat (all 8 watts) is spread across the length of the coil. Whereas with a "stock" 2.2 ohm coil wire, it is much shorter and heats more concentrated.

 

[AttyPops]

it isn't wicking all that good and the higher wire gauges heat up really fast

I missed this before.

Higher #'d gauge is thinner = hotter and higher ohms per inch.

 

[Ebertshay]

Thanks for all the responses everyone! I'm slowly but surely starting to understand. lots to learn huh!?