Mechanical mod help!

[Logan541]

So I have trolled ECF as a guest for awhile now and decided to make an account after not being able to find a direct anwser to some of my questions.

Currently I am vaping on a C-twist with a Kanger protank 2.


I have ordered and am awaiting delivery of a Chi-you (clone), Trident rda, and a panasonic NCR18650PD battery. I already know clones are frowned upon etc. But my question is about the battery, in the description is says the battery is a 10 amp hybrid IMR 18650, I am wanting to know how i would calculate a SAFE ohm build off of this battery? with only knowing one variable (the amps) how am I supposed to calculate anything?

 

[Chas F.]

You'll know 2 variables, don't forget your coil resistance.

 

[sherifx]

You know two variables. You know the nominal voltage of any battery we're using is 3.7, however, fully charged it's at 4.2 volts. I always use 4.2. Furthermore, make sure you don't hit that 10 amp load terribly often. The highest amperage listed (or only listed) is typically the burst ampacity, typically the continual operating ampacity is significantly less. Yes, when we vape, we don't take 1 minute drags, however hitting the limit (just like the rev limit in a car) hard and often, just like a car's engine, will eventually damage the battery.

To speed things up for you, @ 10 amps & 4.2 volts, ohms = ~0.4, @ 5 amps & 4.2 volts = ~0.8 ohms. Thats a pretty good range for a sub-ohm setup. Hope this helps, but I like building my Trident in a dual coil setup using 2mm scilica with two threads in each coil, @ 0.5 ohms. Clouds and flavor for days. Enjoy!

 

[el Jexican]

knowing the OHM of the coil you build and the voltage off the battery you should beable to get a rough understanding of the amperage. 10 amps should be good unless you are trying to build a super low OHM coil.

 

[BardicDruid]

I use this calculator: http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp
With that batt if you stay a 1 ohm or higher you shouldn't have anything to worry about.

 

[Scarey]

Use a multimeter, set to the lowest DC voltage setting.Black negative lead to negative side of your battery, red positive lead to the positive side. You will need to do this to know when to charge your battery, at least until you get used to the performance drop. Fully charged, your voltage will be at 4.2, charge it at no lower than 3 volts. I prefer to charge around 3.3 volts. In the mean time, use 4.2V as your voltage for calculation. Go to Ohm's Law Calculator Plug in 4.2 for E, and 10 for I, this will tell you your minimum safe R (.42Ω), and adjust your coils according to the P (Watts) you like. If you do not have a multimeter, get one ASAP, a digital display, not analog. If you can't afford much right now, Harbor freight has cheapies. Under $6.

 

[Logan541]

So My Voltage is determined by the charge on the battery, low being < 3 volts and 4.2 being "fully charged"?
10 amps is the MAX discharge the battery is rated for?

So I should build the trident with an ohm level that keeps the amp output under 10 amps between the 3 and 4.2 volt charge?

 

[Logan541]

Is there any alternative way of calculating the ohm resistance on a RDA other than using those $20+ ohm readers?

 

[sherifx]

Logan - I would yes. As I put in my post if you wanted to stay safe, you could go as low as 5 amps and still have a 0.8 ohm coil. Low on the battery on an PURE IMR can be 2.5, but I don't recommend it. Yours is a hybrid IMR and LiIon so I'd keep the lowest acceptable voltage to be 3.2v technically and 3.4 volt in practice.

 

[zipflint]

I know this HAS to be covered somewhere on the forum but after 30 minutes of searching, I figure I'll just sacrifice some cool points (hardy har har) and straight up ask:

How do I check the voltage output of a mech mod using an auto-ranging multimeter? I know how to check Ohms on RBAs and the like, but I want to be sure I'm doing the right thing as far as checking the mod itself for possible (probably minimal) voltage drop. I'd just get one of those little in-line voltage meters but they seem to be sold out everywhere right now.

Sooo....do I set the multimeter to the "V" with the "wavy line" underneath it? Or the "V" with one solid line and a few dashes under that? I assume one of those is AC and one is DC, but me, genius that I am, have lost the friggin' manual.

Halp!

 

[Azmo]

I know this HAS to be covered somewhere on the forum but after 30 minutes of searching, I figure I'll just sacrifice some cool points (hardy har har) and straight up ask:

How do I check the voltage output of a mech mod using an auto-ranging multimeter? I know how to check Ohms on RBAs and the like, but I want to be sure I'm doing the right thing as far as checking the mod itself for possible (probably minimal) voltage drop. I'd just get one of those little in-line voltage meters but they seem to be sold out everywhere right now.

Sooo....do I set the multimeter to the "V" with the "wavy line" underneath it? Or the "V" with one solid line and a few dashes under that? I assume one of those is AC and one is DC, but me, genius that I am, have lost the friggin' manual.

Halp!

The wavy line is AC and the straight line is DC.

 

[Baditude]

Below is a list of recommended name-brand IMR & hybrid batteries, with continuous discharge ratings in amps.

Ohm's Law Calculator

AW IMR
18650 2000mah 10Amp CDR
18650 1600mah 24A

MNKE IMR
18650 1500mah ​20A

Panasonic ​or Orbtronic hybrid
CGR18650CH (IMR/hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
NCR18650PD (LiNiCoAl) 2900mAh 10A
Orbtronic 18650 SX22 (hybrid) 2000mAh 22A

Samsung hybrid (LiNiCoMnP)
INR18650-22P 2200mAh 10A
INR18650-20R 2000mah 22A

Sony
us18650v3 IMR 2250mAh 10A
us18650vct3 (hybrid) 1600mAh 30A

Efest IMR
18650 (IMR/hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
18650 2000mAh 10A
18650 1600mAh 30A

* AW IMR 18490 (1100mah) 8.8A

*AW IMR 18350 ​(700mah) 6A​

Required Reading:

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

Mods, Batteries, and Safer Vaping

Sub-Ohm Vaping: Discussion, Batteries, Safety, Warnings

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?

Information Resources for your First RBA

 

[zipflint]

Thanks! And now, at the risk of revealing myself to be an even BIGGER numbskull.....
what do I set it to? AC or DC?
Yep. I'm that dumb.

The wavy line is AC and the straight line is DC.

 

[edyle]

Thanks! And now, at the risk of revealing myself to be an even BIGGER numbskull.....
what do I set it to? AC or DC?
Yep. I'm that dumb.

is there a big round thing that you can turn and it points to either the V with the wavy line, the V with the straight line, or the Ohm ?

 

[Azmo]

Thanks! And now, at the risk of revealing myself to be an even BIGGER numbskull.....
what do I set it to? AC or DC?
Yep. I'm that dumb.

You know, I was going to state this before but decided not to.

Batteries are DC. So set it to the straight line to measure the voltage.

To measure the resistance, your meter will either say resistance, Ohms, or have the Ohm symbol that kind of looks like a horseshoe.

 

[zipflint]

Hey, I take no offence. But yeah, big dial type thing. Lessee if I can link to what I've got from amazon.com:
Mastech MS8268 Digital AC/DC Auto/Manual Range Digital Multimeter Meter: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Been using it to measure resistance on my rebuildables and (el cheapo) hybrids. Figure I should start using it for more of its intended purposes.

is there a big round thing that you can turn and it points to either the V with the wavy line, the V with the straight line, or the Ohm ?

 

[zipflint]

Many thanks! You've helped to put my mind more at ease....
Now if only all these OTHER things would fall into place....
oy vey...

You know, I was going to state this before but decided not to.

Batteries are DC. So set it to the straight line to measure the voltage.

To measure the resistance, your meter will either say resistance, Ohms, or have the Ohm symbol that kind of looks like a horseshoe.