Mechanical Mod Suggestion

[TheColdHandedVG]

Hey Everyone!

I recently got a Tobeco Nemesis Clone. First off, the switch is definitely sub-par. Honestly I don't really care but it just adds fuel to the fire...

The main reason I am looking for a new device is because my Nemesis just gets way to hot when sub-ohming (around 0.3-0.4 ohms). The battery stays at a normal temperature but the mod itself just gets so hot and at times I swear I can feel electricity flowing through the outer casing or something because I sometimes get this sensation that where my hand is placed is getting really hot and as soon as I stop firing and touch that spot again it feels warm but nowhere near as hot as it felt just a split second ago.

Anyways, I am interested in getting a mechanical that would be best for sub-ohming. Maybe something with a dedicated hand grip that is rubber or even if the steel is just really thick so it isn't so quick to heat up.

I am really open to anything that you guys have good experiences with while sub-ohming. I have discovered that sub-ohming is game changing and something I now can't live without and don't appreciate the sub-par experience I am currently having with the nemi.

Thanks!!

 

[TheColdHandedVG]

Hey Everyone!

I recently got a Tobeco Nemesis Clone. First off, the switch is definitely sub-par. Honestly I don't really care but it just adds fuel to the fire...

The main reason I am looking for a new device is because my Nemesis just gets way to hot when sub-ohming (around 0.3-0.4 ohms). The battery stays at a normal temperature but the mod itself just gets so hot and at times I swear I can feel electricity flowing through the outer casing or something because I sometimes get this sensation that where my hand is placed is getting really hot and as soon as I stop firing and touch that spot again it feels warm but nowhere near as hot as it felt just a split second ago.

Anyways, I am interested in getting a mechanical that would be best for sub-ohming. Maybe something with a dedicated hand grip that is rubber or even if the steel is just really thick so it isn't so quick to heat up.

I am really open to anything that you guys have good experiences with while sub-ohming. I have discovered that sub-ohming is game changing and something I now can't live without and don't appreciate the sub-par experience I am currently having with the nemi.

Thanks!!

Oh, I would also like to mention that I have already done the magnet upgrade on the switch and that hasn't made anything better (actually worse IMO). Just wanted to throw that out there before everyone chimed in with this

 

[charliehall72]

I havent had that issue at .2 ohms with either my vanilla or my king mod (both authentic). The king is nice and heavy and seems like it could definitely take a beating since the brass is so thick so I would say that would be a good option to go with. But I do have the surefire king that has the octagon locking ring, not the new one that has the grooved rings

 

[kslice917]

The main reason I am looking for a new device is because my Nemesis just gets way to hot when sub-ohming (around 0.3-0.4 ohms). The battery stays at a normal temperature but the mod itself just gets so hot and at times I swear I can feel electricity flowing through the outer casing or something because I sometimes get this sensation that where my hand is placed is getting really hot and as soon as I stop firing and touch that spot again it feels warm but nowhere near as hot as it felt just a split second ago.

Unfortunately, I do not have a suggestion for you yet - I'm looking at getting a good mech myself so I'll be watching this thread to see what others say. Though I did want to chime in on one thing in particular that you mentioned: the rapid-seeming cooling of your device. Just for fun, I once rebuilt a Kanger AeroTank coil to sub-ohm and yes...that thing got really hot, really quick. But just like yours, it also cooled very quickly. I believe this is because of how the Kanthal wire works. It lights up red/white hot in a mere second and cools down just as fast.

Now I know you said it was your mod (not topper) that was getting hot. Obviously heat is transferred though conductive materials such as the metal in a 510/eGo connector. I'm pretty sure it's the design of the topper that determines just how hot the outside is getting - unless your battery is getting hot, which you stated it is not. It may help others give you a suggestion if you let them know what topper you are using to sub-ohm with. That's not to say it isn't your mod - but usually the only place that should heat up when electricity is transferred is a place where the electric flow is slowed down by resistance and placed next to another area of the same manner: a coil.

I'm sure I haven't told you anything you don't already know - I'm just telling you my experiences. I've never had a mod get hot, only a top.

 

[Bad Ninja]

You have a loose connection or corrosion causing resistance in the mod.
This can cause hot spots and poor performance.

Electricity does pass through the mod.
That's how they function. The body is part of the circuit.
Clean and tighten all connections. that should solve the issue.

I have the Tobeco Nemmy.
It's not a bad clone.

 

[Ryedan]

You have a loose connection or corrosion causing resistance in the mod.
This can cause hot spots and poor performance.

Electricity does pass through the mod.
That's how they function. The body is part of the circuit.
Clean and tighten all connections. that should solve the issue.

I have the Tobeco Nemmy.
It's not a bad clone.

This is exactly what I was thinking as I read your post Cave. Anytime a mod gets hot and it's not the battery heating up, it can only be from the atty heating up at the top end, or high resistance typically in the switch or the 510 connection. You should be able to tell which end of the mod is heating up and how hot the atty is.

If it's the atty heating up, you know your issue is the atty.

The tube threads could be a problem if they are really dirty so clean them with alcohol.

If the bottom end is heating up, take the switch completely apart and clean all contact surfaces with alcohol and a Q-tip or whatever you have that you can get into it all with. Also look for any metal chips or burrs from the machining process and get rid of any you find. Don't sand any of the contact surfaces to clean them, it's not necessary and it will mess up some of the surfaces. That should do it for you.

The way the Nemesis is designed, it really should not be the 510 connection. If it is, you'll just have to check things out and see where that takes you.

The Nemesis switch tends to be a bit crunchy. I put magnets in mine and that improved this, but it eliminates the springs as conductors and I find it makes mine a bit less dependable so I have to clean it more often.

Good luck with it and let us know how you make out.

 

[bsoplinger]

An old toothbrush works great for cleaning threads. It can even get the blind ones, that is the ones you can't see inside of a tube. And it's not so strong a material that you worry about it ruining any finish, even on aluminum or copper. If you don't have an old toothbrush, because you use a different product like a waterpic, just buy one at the grocery or drug store. Dawn dishwashing detergent is your friend. Removes all sorts of oily residue. Really comes in handy with new products that still have milling or cutting oil on them.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[h418982]

IF you are in the market for a new Mech, i would suggest a vanilla mod. Fairly well priced for an authentic mod and an all around great mod. Bottom recessed button and perfect size with silver plated adjustable pins.

 

[TheColdHandedVG]

Unfortunately, I do not have a suggestion for you yet - I'm looking at getting a good mech myself so I'll be watching this thread to see what others say. Though I did want to chime in on one thing in particular that you mentioned: the rapid-seeming cooling of your device. Just for fun, I once rebuilt a Kanger AeroTank coil to sub-ohm and yes...that thing got really hot, really quick. But just like yours, it also cooled very quickly. I believe this is because of how the Kanthal wire works. It lights up red/white hot in a mere second and cools down just as fast.

Now I know you said it was your mod (not topper) that was getting hot. Obviously heat is transferred though conductive materials such as the metal in a 510/eGo connector. I'm pretty sure it's the design of the topper that determines just how hot the outside is getting - unless your battery is getting hot, which you stated it is not. It may help others give you a suggestion if you let them know what topper you are using to sub-ohm with. That's not to say it isn't your mod - but usually the only place that should heat up when electricity is transferred is a place where the electric flow is slowed down by resistance and placed next to another area of the same manner: a coil.

I'm sure I haven't told you anything you don't already know - I'm just telling you my experiences. I've never had a mod get hot, only a top.

Sorry for the misunderstanding. The RDA I am using is of course what is making the mod hot, that is what the point of the recommendation is for. I am looking for a mod that doesn't get so hot from transferred heat from the RDA.

 

[TheColdHandedVG]

You have a loose connection or corrosion causing resistance in the mod.
This can cause hot spots and poor performance.

Electricity does pass through the mod.
That's how they function. The body is part of the circuit.
Clean and tighten all connections. that should solve the issue.

I have the Tobeco Nemmy.
It's not a bad clone.

There is definitely no corrosion and the contacts are spotless. It is basically brand new and the contacts are tightened as much as I can with my 18650's.

 

[TheColdHandedVG]

This is exactly what I was thinking as I read your post Cave. Anytime a mod gets hot and it's not the battery heating up, it can only be from the atty heating up at the top end, or high resistance typically in the switch or the 510 connection. You should be able to tell which end of the mod is heating up and how hot the atty is.

If it's the atty heating up, you know your issue is the atty.

The tube threads could be a problem if they are really dirty so clean them with alcohol.

If the bottom end is heating up, take the switch completely apart and clean all contact surfaces with alcohol and a Q-tip or whatever you have that you can get into it all with. Also look for any metal chips or burrs from the machining process and get rid of any you find. Don't sand any of the contact surfaces to clean them, it's not necessary and it will mess up some of the surfaces. That should do it for you.

The way the Nemesis is designed, it really should not be the 510 connection. If it is, you'll just have to check things out and see where that takes you.

The Nemesis switch tends to be a bit crunchy. I put magnets in mine and that improved this, but it eliminates the springs as conductors and I find it makes mine a bit less dependable so I have to clean it more often.

Good luck with it and let us know how you make out.

Yes, I know that the atty is making the device hot. The reason for the request for suggestion is I am looking for something that doesn't accept transferred heat as easily. Maybe a type of metal less prone to accepting heat transfer or dissipates heat quickly. Sorry for any confusion. I am not looking for trouble shooting just suggestions on a new mod that is better suited for me based on my OP, just wanted to throw that in there so everyone knows what I meant by my OP.

 

[TheColdHandedVG]

An old toothbrush works great for cleaning threads. It can even get the blind ones, that is the ones you can't see inside of a tube. And it's not so strong a material that you worry about it ruining any finish, even on aluminum or copper. If you don't have an old toothbrush, because you use a different product like a waterpic, just buy one at the grocery or drug store. Dawn dishwashing detergent is your friend. Removes all sorts of oily residue. Really comes in handy with new products that still have milling or cutting oil on them.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

Thanks for the tip but all my contacts are squeaky clean and threading as well at the moment. The device looks the same as the day I got it. Thanks for the tip though, will keep in mind for the future!

 

[TheColdHandedVG]

IF you are in the market for a new Mech, i would suggest a vanilla mod. Fairly well priced for an authentic mod and an all around great mod. Bottom recessed button and perfect size with silver plated adjustable pins.

Hmmm...that is a nice looking mod. It looks very similar to the nemi which is why I would probably not get it. Basically I am not liking how thin the nemi is so thin because it is just taking all that heat from the atty so I want something thicker that would hopefully help a bit.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Yes, I know that the atty is making the device hot. The reason for the request for suggestion is I am looking for something that doesn't accept transferred heat as easily. Maybe a type of metal less prone to accepting heat transfer or dissipates heat quickly. Sorry for any confusion. I am not looking for trouble shooting just suggestions on a new mod that is better suited for me based on my OP, just wanted to throw that in there so everyone knows what I meant by my OP.

It's not the metal.
It's not your atomizer.
There is a loose or dirty (corroded) connection somewhere.

Mods are primitive electronic devices. Very simple. Easy to troubleshoot.
I have the exact same mod(Tobeco).

The issues you are having can happen with all mods.my
money says the problem is in the switch. Something is loose or dirty.

 

[kslice917]

Sorry for the misunderstanding. The RDA I am using is of course what is making the mod hot, that is what the point of the recommendation is for. I am looking for a mod that doesn't get so hot from transferred heat from the RDA.

This is very understandable and I'm glad we're now on the same page. Bear in mind what people are saying on here, though. Yes, heat is transferred from your RDA to your mod - but it should never be enough to make the mod hot. After all, the heat can only be transferred from the small amount of metal that is in contact in a 510 connection. This connection is also exposed and should dissipate heat much faster than it can be generated/transferred. I've had tops that will get hot enough to cauterize skin right after firing, but the mod still stayed cool to the touch. We are simply concerned that there might be something wrong with your current mod and there should be no reason for you to NOT absolutely love it.

Yes, I know that the atty is making the device hot. The reason for the request for suggestion is I am looking for something that doesn't accept transferred heat as easily. Maybe a type of metal less prone to accepting heat transfer or dissipates heat quickly. Sorry for any confusion. I am not looking for trouble shooting just suggestions on a new mod that is better suited for me based on my OP, just wanted to throw that in there so everyone knows what I meant by my OP.

Pretty much all 510 connections are going to use the same metal and therefore have the same heat transfer/dissipation rate. This rate should be enough that your mod should receive very little (if any) of the transferred heat.

Hmmm...that is a nice looking mod. It looks very similar to the nemi which is why I would probably not get it. Basically I am not liking how thin the nemi is so thin because it is just taking all that heat from the atty so I want something thicker that would hopefully help a bit.

Inversely, a thinner mod should (in theory) be able to dissipate the heat quicker. But now we're getting somewhere that's helping us know what you are looking for. Again, in our minds all mods are not going to have this issue - but I never rule out the seemingly impossible. Hopefully we can find a good solution for you if you are intent on finding a new mod - which is; after all, the intent of this thread.

 

[Ryedan]

Yes, I know that the atty is making the device hot. The reason for the request for suggestion is I am looking for something that doesn't accept transferred heat as easily. Maybe a type of metal less prone to accepting heat transfer or dissipates heat quickly. Sorry for any confusion. I am not looking for trouble shooting just suggestions on a new mod that is better suited for me based on my OP, just wanted to throw that in there so everyone knows what I meant by my OP.

I hear ya Cave. I've vaped a SS Nemesis at 0.4 - 0.6 ohms with a dual coil Trident RDA quite a bit since December. I vape around 6 ml a day these days and sometimes I chain vape for a while. The Trident gets warm sometimes, occasionally hot, but the nemesis doesn't. I've had the same experience with my K100.

I don't know if you would be better off with a aluminum mod. Aluminum transfers heat much faster than steel, so it would heat up quicker and then cool down quick. The maximum temperature might be a bit lower, but it all depends on how much heat you pump into it. If you chain vape like crazy for 10 minutes it might actually get hotter before it starts to cool down.

If you coated the mod with rubber, an insulator, it would actually get hotter. You wouldn't feel it, but your battery would

What material is your Nemy?

 

[TheColdHandedVG]

It's not the metal.
It's not your atomizer.
There is a loose or dirty (corroded) connection somewhere.

Mods are primitive electronic devices. Very simple. Easy to troubleshoot.
I have the exact same mod(Tobeco).

The issues you are having can happen with all mods.my
money says the problem is in the switch. Something is loose or dirty.

Nothing is dirty since it is basically brand new and nothing is corroded. It looks like shiny metal, that is it. And nothing is loose, everything is nice and tight (even the threads to connect the two body tubes are nice and clean and tight).

 

[TheColdHandedVG]

This is very understandable and I'm glad we're now on the same page. Bear in mind what people are saying on here, though. Yes, heat is transferred from your RDA to your mod - but it should never be enough to make the mod hot. After all, the heat can only be transferred from the small amount of metal that is in contact in a 510 connection. This connection is also exposed and should dissipate heat much faster than it can be generated/transferred. I've had tops that will get hot enough to cauterize skin right after firing, but the mod still stayed cool to the touch. We are simply concerned that there might be something wrong with your current mod and there should be no reason for you to NOT absolutely love it.



Pretty much all 510 connections are going to use the same metal and therefore have the same heat transfer/dissipation rate. This rate should be enough that your mod should receive very little (if any) of the transferred heat.



Inversely, a thinner mod should (in theory) be able to dissipate the heat quicker. But now we're getting somewhere that's helping us know what you are looking for. Again, in our minds all mods are not going to have this issue - but I never rule out the seemingly impossible. Hopefully we can find a good solution for you if you are intent on finding a new mod - which is; after all, the intent of this thread.

Well my RDA sits flush on the device since it is a recessed 510 connection so the heat is actually being transferred from the whole bottom part of the atty which gets really hot from sub-ohming. That is why I wasn't really thinking it was abnormal, just annoying.

I am not concerned with what metal is used in the 510 connection. I want a device that uses a metal for the body that doesn't accept transfer of heat easily so if the connection and bottom of the atty gets hot there isn't too much transfer of heat.

You are saying that no mods get hot while sub-ohming around 0.2 ohms? Every video I watch with people sub-ohming say that the body of their device gets hot close to the atty unless their atty isn't sitting flush on the top cap. I would be curious to know if what you are saying is true and that this is truly abnormal.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[TheColdHandedVG]

I hear ya Cave. I've vaped a SS Nemesis at 0.4 - 0.6 ohms with a dual coil Trident RDA quite a bit since December. I vape around 6 ml a day these days and sometimes I chain vape for a while. The Trident gets warm sometimes, occasionally hot, but the nemesis doesn't. I've had the same experience with my K100.

I don't know if you would be better off with a aluminum mod. Aluminum transfers heat much faster than steel, so it would heat up quicker and then cool down quick. The maximum temperature might be a bit lower, but it all depends on how much heat you pump into it. If you chain vape like crazy for 10 minutes it might actually get hotter before it starts to cool down.

If you coated the mod with rubber, an insulator, it would actually get hotter. You wouldn't feel it, but your battery would

What material is your Nemy?

NO ALUMINUM!

I think that would just straight up burn my hand lol!

And I am not sure if I mentioned this but my RDA of choice right now is actually the Trident V2 so you would know what I am talking about the most out of everyone here probably. I do chain vape in a hot room (around 80 degrees a lot of the time) so that combined with my ridiculously hot hands and 0.2-0.3 ohm build just doesn't work out well.

This is why I am in the market for a thick mod, or mod made out of a metal that is resistant to heat transfer, or something with some sort of rubber grip or other hand grip.