mechanical mods?????

[drifter17x]

what are they exactly and how do they differ from vv/vw mods? I'm guessing you can't adjust any kind of voltage. but why are people making and vaping on their mechanicals with their coils at .6 ohms? and how do u even make coils at such a low ohm level? how does that produce any vapor whatsoever? I'm so lost please help lol

 

[Nicadmus]

I'm hardly qualified enough to answer in detail, but mechanical mods are essentially a metal tube with a fire button, 510 connection, and room for a battery. No wiring at all, and by extension, no built in protection. If you tried to use a 0.6 ohm coil on a Vamo or Provari, the built in protection on those devices would not allow it.

Because you can not adjust anything on a mechanical, you are firing at 3.7 volts when you push the button. On a standard or even low'ish resistance coil, that's not enough power to produce much vapor or satisfaction for a lot of people. In order to increase the vapor and wattage (power), you need a lower resistance on your coil. That's where these really low ohm coils come into play, or at least, that's my basic understanding. I am also trying to figure this all out.

In any case, the info is here on the forums though not always easy to find. I'm sure someone with a better grasp can point you in a better direction here soon.

 

[drifter17x]

thanks though, you answered a few of my questions. I appreciate you taking your time to inform me

 

[gjshaw29]

0.6 ohms on a fresh battery at 4.2 volts is around 29 watts. So you'll get plenty of vapor. Mechanicals are great if you're using rba's. That's why I started using them. Actually all I use now, no more VV or VW for me

 

[tj99959]

Well right now my Provari is set at 3.7v, so how different would a mechanical PV be?

I look at sub ohm vaping as just a toy, and looking for bragging rights. Personally I found it to be a crappy vape, and a great way to waste juice. I use mechanical mods a lot, and find that they work just fine with normal resistance stuff.

Oh, and there isn't a mechanical mod on the planet that will hit at 29 watts with one battery in it. When you put a load (atty resistance) on it, the voltage drops. The lower the resistance ... the more the drop.

Here's reality with low resistance: Even 3.5v is almost 6 amps, so you need one hell of a battery (10C or better), or you won't even get that.

 

[artt]

Remember when your using a 3.7 battery your not starting out at 3.7 volts. I use 18650 / 2600 mah AW's in a P-18. When fully charged they meter at 4.18 volts. Paired with a repairable or a stock carto at about 1.8 ohm, I can use one battery all day and at the end of the day it is usually down to around 3.7 volts. With a large battery the drop is relatively slow. I also use 10440 and 14500 bats and with their smaller size the drop does occur quicker, so I just replace the batteries more frequently.

 

[CptBragg]

A good analogy is that mechs are hotrods and VV/VW/Regulated devices are like a Prius.

Not yet mentioned in this post is that mechs are far more durable than VV/VW devices (there are low quality mechs though). If you drop your Vamo into a toilet (I am quite sure this has happened to someone <.<) it is more than likely dead. A mech, on the other hand, can easily be salvaged (please wash your hands). There are no circuit panels, LED displays, etc. to damage in mechs. This also applies to mechs being able to withstand crazy, low ohm RBA builds. Most VV/VW (except the DNA 20 mods) will not fire anything below 1.2ohms or anything that has a slight short.

 

[Flyer]

Another way to look at it - a 20w or so vape using a properly setup RBA that wicks fast enough that nothing gets burnt. It's a pretty intense experience the first time you try it with more flavor, vapor and nic than you've ever imagined possible. That said, it's not everyone's cup of tea.

 

[Ryedan]

what are they exactly and how do they differ from vv/vw mods? I'm guessing you can't adjust any kind of voltage. but why are people making and vaping on their mechanicals with their coils at .6 ohms? and how do u even make coils at such a low ohm level? how does that produce any vapor whatsoever? I'm so lost please help lol

Yup, like others have said, mechanical mods have no boards or wires in them. No VV or VW. Been using one for about a month now I think. I use a AGA T2 on a K100 running 0.7 ohm coils and SS wicks. I get the ohms down to that by using 5/4 wraps of 27 gauge Kanthal. Using 32 gauge wire the ohms would be significantly higher around 2 - 2.4 ohms with the same number of wraps. I tried that on VV mods and it just did not do anything for me. Preferred carto tanks hands down.

The lower the ohms (resistance) of the coil, the more amps it draws from the unregulated battery which causes more power to be delivered to the coil causing juice to be vaporized faster. 27 gauge wire is significantly thicker than 32 gauge, so the power is spread over much more surface area. After that, it's all about the wick being able to keep up with the high powered coil. When I get it right, the vape is fantastic. I also found getting the thicker wire set up right is much easier than the thinner wire.

This does come with some down sides though. By definition mechanical mod means no safety features built into the mod. I always check my battery's voltage off my Xtar charger just in case it overcharged them, a serious safety issue. I check battery voltage when I think they are getting close to needing to be recharged. Run them too low repeatedly and they have shortened life, way too low and they are toast. I check coil resistance any time I mess with or set up a new wick and/coil because coil resistance determines amp draw. If you draw too many amps from your battery you will have a serious safety issue. I'm also always aware of the mod's temperature during use. Any part of it heating up is an issue that needs to be resolved or it can become serious.

IMO, if you are happy with your vape right now, leave this for a while and do a bunch more reading before you pursue it. At the very least you need to feel very comfortable with the battery safety issues. Vape safe

 

[BmoreJeff]

as explained above mech mods have no wires. you press a button and it completes the path and boom you have vape. higher end mech mods with better materials and build quality have less voltage drop and are significantly better than a china knockoff. the advantage to vv mods is that you can vape them at pretty much and resistance your battery will allow. i use aw's down til about .7 ohm and really dont go lower than that, but if you do i think many like mnke batts for true sub ohm vaping. since i have had my ggts i havent used my provari. its just my preference, but a dual coil at .7 ohm on an odysseus or ithaka is truly my favorite vape (no i dont use gennys anymore, ss mesh in my opinion is not suitable for vaping as its not approved as silica is). just keep in mind you get what you pay for. i have a vamo sitting my on dresser right now (its my friends). he thought that spending only 30 dollars on a mod was a DEAL, well the only deal he got was a great deal of problems. the 10 cents plastic insulator in the 510 connector fell out an now the mod wont function so i have to fix it for him. i dropped my provari 100 times and it still rocks, i have put my ggts through hell and back and its flawless, this vamo (complete china junk in my opinion) worked for a week and now problems. so invest wisely

 

[paul26]

If you want to try a mechanical mod, try the Smoktek Natural. Very cheap and does the job very well. They have alot of cheap RBA's out there now and you can pop one on and practice making coils and finding your sweet spot. Right now im using an eVic vv with a $40 AGI RBA. 3 wraps of 32ga kanthal gives me a reading of 2.5 ohms (eVic reading) and im vaping clouds.

 

[Codz]

I was going to start a new thread on mech mods until i found this one, so will just add my question to it.

OK, to start i have only been vaping for a few months, and currently have a couple of ego 650 / 900 batts that i use megacarts with, a Tornado RCS system that is VV although only 2 options (3.7 / 4.4 - to be honest i can barely tell the difference) and an evic.

I dont really need a mech mod, but i must admit my main temptation at the moment is that they look great. If i do get one, i will wait another couple of months until i have a better understanding of how to wrap my own coils, use mesh, etc (havent tried this at all yet) & know what i am doing with battery safety. I'm that cautious i even bought a lipo safe charging bag to put my egos / Tornado / Evic in (it was only £5 so i figured why not!)

As i understand it there are 3 main reasons for getting a mech mod;

1. They are likely to be more reliable (+easier to repair than a VV/VW) and therefore have more longevity
2. You can use them with a much lower resistance coil, which can in turn result in better TH, taste, clouds, etc
3. They look great!

So, my question is;

1. From the information i have gleaned so far from both personal experience and the very helpful information i have found on this forum (including some really useful charts showing how many volts you should be using depending on the resistance of your coil) it appears that, lets say a 1.2ohm coil could be burnt out by as low a voltage as around 3.4. With this in mind, and the fact that a mech is gonna give out approx 3.7 (or as somenone above pointed out 4.18V) how is it that the wire doesnt get burnt out on these low ohm coils people use on their mechs?

 

[serenity21899]

I do not get into sub-ohm vaping, but it is easier to build any coil on an unregulated device. When I tried to do that on my ProVari, I got a lot of errors.

And no wiring and PCB's to break. If the FDA is not nice to us, my ProVari's and mech will last a long time.

And there are a lot of good looking mods out there. It often becomes a collection thing. I'm personally starting cheaper to see what I like before I spend the money on shiny things I don't need.

 

[Dusif]

Vv/vw are GREAT with stuff like vivi novas and protanks, plug and play fun.

Mechs are great if you wanna play with low ohms, they can produce huge clouds

If you get a vamo you cant go lower than 1.2ohm... Unlike a mech that has no limits to what it will fire...

I started with a vamo with a protank... I recently realised that im a mech kinda guy so now im using a kts+ with an aga-t+ @ 0,7ohm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

 

[Arnie H]

Most mech mods (particularly metal tube mods) do have some basic safety features such as vent holes or a hotspring. A protected battery or a vapesafe fuse is usually recommended. I am good at 1.8 ohms, don't really need to go any lower.

 

[cramptholomew]

What is this "hot spring" I've suddenly seen, like, 6 times this morning? Does it contract when hot or something?

 

[txgtr]

What is this "hot spring" I've suddenly seen, like, 6 times this morning? Does it contract when hot or something?

It's my understanding that it collapses when hot, thus breaking the connection and disabling the mod. Or maybe that's another type of spring. But I thought it to be a safety feature.

Or..It may be just the opposite? I'm sure someone will clarify. I'm also interested in learning. I've got an interest in mech mods, but I'm a bit intimidated by them at this point.

Lot's o' readin' to do.

 

[tj99959]

PV's like the Silver bullet and Reo have had functioning "hut springs" for several years. Just understand, not all hot springs are functional. If a PV has a bottom button for instance the spring is mechanically bypassed when you push the button, so it becomes nonfunctional.

 

[LeoRex]

it appears that, lets say a 1.2ohm coil could be burnt out by as low a voltage as around 3.4. With this in mind, and the fact that a mech is gonna give out approx 3.7 (or as someone above pointed out 4.18V) how is it that the wire doesnt get burnt out on these low ohm coils people use on their mechs?

Well... not all devices perform the same way. I recently picked up a mech (K100) and a RBA (Smok RSST) and I am running a .9 ohm coil using 28 gauge wire... which is significantly thicker than the wire you would find in a 2.5ohm Evod or Protank coil and can handle a lot more current. It has a rolled stainless steel mesh wick... that is, what, about 1 1/2 inches long that extends from the coil down into the 3ml tank below. It can wick juice fast enough to keep feeding the coil... so it won't (usually) run dry and go south on you. On a fresh battery, that's nearly 20w.... which is more than twice the power that I've ever been able to put through a any clearo (evod, Vivi) or a cartomizer. And it vapes awesome... rich, warm, flavor packed vapor....



On the other hand, if I put 20w through a tiny evod coil, it'd probably implode into a black hole. It would probably pop the instant I fired it... But at 8 or 8.5w, my evods work just fine.

 

[Baditude]

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...tems/462202-how-sub-ohm-vaping-dangerous.html

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/baditude/4848-9-battery-basics-mods-imr-protected.html

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-tips-vapors-looking-try-their-first-rba.html