Mechanical???...

[Soul_T]

Hello!

So I bought my first rba, purchased the AGA-T+ and I love the thing, not just for the vape, I love building them. Anyways, I know that I am definitly a fan of Low Resistance, the lower the ohm the better... So my question is about mechanical mods and the difference between using, lets say, a 1.2 - 1.5 ohm coil on my provari compared to using a 0.6 - 0.9 ohm coil on a mechanical, will I notice any major difference between the 2, if any? I will probably pick up a mechanical one day anyways, but if it is going to blow my mind then, well, I want one now! lol... Its just that I've been reading about it a lil' and I've read that it is just amazing and u will never know why it is so amazing until u actually try it and see first hand, and on the other side I've read that there is not much difference between the 2, just use a higher voltage with a higher ohm coil and it will be about the same. So, will I notice the difference between using a VV then going to a mechanical? Will the lower ohm with a mechanical give me that amazing vape? If so can anyone recommend a good mechanical mod for my first? Thanx in advance for any replys!

 

[kimbo55]

SKOK Telescope

 

[ericlin0122]

I have 3 AGA-Ts. one wrap with 1.2ohm twisted 32wire, and the other 1.0ohm twisted 32wire. I do notice that 1.0ohm gives me more vape and warmer. I am running china gg with 18490 battery, this thing is amazing for the price.

 

[Unforeseen]

Moved to APV Discussion

 

[crxess]

Difference? You shouldn't. The whole reason for Low ohms is to overcome Battery limitation in a Mech mod. With electronic mods you overcome that barrier and can more easily run higher ohm coils.

Something no one seems to ever mention is higher ohms means more coils which in turn means more coil to liquid contact.

 

[thecatanddog]

Difference? You shouldn't. The whole reason for Low ohms is to overcome Battery limitation in a Mech mod. With electronic mods you overcome that barrier and can more easily run higher ohm coils.

Something no one seems to ever mention is higher ohms means more coils which in turn means more coil to liquid contact.

pretty well said. i just prefer mechanical mods (all i use) because of durability/reliability.

 

[ukeman]

There is a growing wave of vapers just flowing towards SLR super low resistance and mechanicals ( or Hybrids) that are set up to optimize voltage ... less voltage drop under load.
I for one believe the SLR vape is better than a higher Ohms coil Genesis on a regulated VV VW.
As a so called "vet" it took me a short minute to get over my conventional skepticism over such low resistances... in the old days, all you would get is a harsher vape... not so with SLR Genesis... the wicking and the tilt to keep the juice up there avoids burning, the vapor and the flavor is outstanding.
28g Kanthal or Ribbon Kanthal is what you need for these to get under 1.0 Ohms, and of course a Hybrid or mechanical... not any mechanical will do either.

 

[ukeman]

I'm afraid that is the old paradigm... it no longer fits...
you'd have to ask someone more technically qualified than me to give the scientific answer as to how it is "better" but its there... and translates into better vapor and flavor.
(I'm strictly talking about Genesis atomizers and sub 1.0 Ohms ... )

Difference? You shouldn't. The whole reason for Low ohms is to overcome Battery limitation in a Mech mod. With electronic mods you overcome that barrier and can more easily run higher ohm coils.

Something no one seems to ever mention is higher ohms means more coils which in turn means more coil to liquid contact.

in that regard, you can wrap a genesis coil with 28g kanthal 5 to 8 times and still be close to 1.0 Ohms.
There is also Ribbon kanthal..a wider coil space. 4/3 or 5/4 wrap of either gets you under 1.0 Ohms.

 

[Telescope Neil]

Hello!

So I bought my first RBA, purchased the AGA-T+ and I love the thing, not just for the vape, I love building them. Anyways, I know that I am definitly a fan of Low Resistance, the lower the ohm the better... So my question is about mechanical mods and the difference between using, lets say, a 1.2 - 1.5 ohm coil on my provari compared to using a 0.6 - 0.9 ohm coil on a mechanical, will I notice any major difference between the 2, if any? I will probably pick up a mechanical one day anyways, but if it is going to blow my mind then, well, I want one now! lol... Its just that I've been reading about it a lil' and I've read that it is just amazing and u will never know why it is so amazing until u actually try it and see first hand, and on the other side I've read that there is not much difference between the 2, just use a higher voltage with a higher ohm coil and it will be about the same. So, will I notice the difference between using a VV then going to a mechanical? Will the lower ohm with a mechanical give me that amazing vape? If so can anyone recommend a good mechanical mod for my first? Thanx in advance for any replys!

There is actually a BIG difference when you vape at high and low ohms at the same watts. Let's say you wrapped your AGA-T with 32gauge kanthal and it turned out to be 2ohms. you fire it at 6 volts and it's exactly 18watts. this will taste very bad and burnt like vaping on charcoal. now you wrapped it again with 28gauge kanthal or a ribbon wire and it's .8 ohms. you fire it at 3.8 volts to be exactly 18 watts again. It will taste great, TH is amazing, and vapor is incredible. Why? because higher gauge wires are thinner, which causes them to be less resistant to high temperatures, that's why it will taste bad. but with lower gauge wires, these are actually thick and ribbon wires have a large surface area meaning they will be highly resistant to heat.

Now, a good mechanical has upgraded positive and negative pins. I don't really know what pins are in many mods, but on expensive and high end mechanicals, they will at least have copper pins. copper pins on a mechanical will improve conductivity, so voltage drop will be felt minimally. there are also silver pins out there, which is considered to be the most conductive metal on earth. I don't know if there are mods already using silver pins, but I know they can be upgraded. I also think that upgraded pins will give you higher power under load, but this is just my theory.

 

[ukeman]

There is actually a BIG difference when you vape at high and low ohms at the same watts. Let's say you wrapped your AGA-T with 32gauge kanthal and it turned out to be 2ohms. you fire it at 6 volts and it's exactly 18watts. this will taste very bad and burnt like vaping on charcoal. now you wrapped it again with 28gauge kanthal or a ribbon wire and it's .8 ohms. you fire it at 3.8 volts to be exactly 18 watts again. It will taste great, TH is amazing, and vapor is incredible. Why? because higher gauge wires are thinner, which causes them to be less resistant to high temperatures, that's why it will taste bad. but with lower gauge wires, these are actually thick and ribbon wires have a large surface area meaning they will be highly resistant to heat.

Now, a good mechanical has upgraded positive and negative pins. I don't really know what pins are in many mods, but on expensive and high end mechanicals, they will at least have copper pins. copper pins on a mechanical will improve conductivity, so voltage drop will be felt minimally. there are also silver pins out there, which is considered to be the most conductive metal on earth. I don't know if there are mods already using silver pins, but I know they can be upgraded. I also think that upgraded pins will give you higher power under load, but this is just my theory.

thank you for the explanation. I don't like contradicting folks but yeah, I feel like we are right back in the vortex of the newest phenomenon in vaping... where the action is.
It's pretty exciting but at the same time there is so much misunderstanding, misinformation... i guess its the nature of an open forum.

btw the Poldiac uses sterling silver coated (over brass i think) pins.... some wondered about tarnishing but they can be easily cleaned.

 

[EDO]

I would go to this link and read all the reasons why people prefer the SLR set ups on mechanical mods using 28g wire:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-systems/387903-who-prefers-lr-rba-setup.html

Summary:

The main reason I use a mechanical device is so that I can use 28g wire and set up sub ohm coils. With this set up you get super stable builds, huge vapor, super fast response times, long lasting coils, silky smooth throat hit, and excellent taste. With the newer high amp batteries the vape is just as consistent as with VV/VW devices and your batteries last longer. I forgot to mention that is far easier to set up a coil using 28g wire vs 32 or 30g wire. As to why all of the above is true you have to go to the link. My VV devices are voltmeters now.

 

[zipflint]

I am so blindingly overwhelmed by the (literal) nuts and bolts of mechanicals that I'm not going to buy one until I can go to a shop and have someone educate me one-on-one. I can be a little thick-headed sometimes and it sounds to me like you really NEED to know what you're doing with mechanical mods, otherwise you waste a lot of money, encounter a LOT of frustration, and (worst case scenario) cause yourself bodily harm.

 

[crxess]

I am so blindingly overwhelmed by the (literal) nuts and bolts of mechanicals that I'm not going to buy one until I can go to a shop and have someone educate me one-on-one. I can be a little thick-headed sometimes and it sounds to me like you really NEED to know what you're doing with mechanical mods, otherwise you waste a lot of money, encounter a LOT of frustration, and (worst case scenario) cause yourself bodily harm.

Or you could just get one, pop a Vivi tank on top and enjoy Vaping. Mech mods are not just for Super Vapers.
I've got a couple of ccts and usually have a vivi or carto tank or sometimes a clearo or ce2 Rev4(love these) running.

 

[Telescope Neil]

thank you for the explanation. I don't like contradicting folks but yeah, I feel like we are right back in the vortex of the newest phenomenon in vaping... where the action is.
It's pretty exciting but at the same time there is so much misunderstanding, misinformation... i guess its the nature of an open forum.

btw the Poldiac uses sterling silver coated (over brass i think) pins.... some wondered about tarnishing but they can be easily cleaned.

No problem, that's why we are here Btw, silver coated pins are not true silver pins, since they are only some kind of metal with a coating of silver. There are true silver pins, which are 99.99% silver, and they are gods of conductivity luckily for me there are people here locally who would upgrade your own pins, no matter what mechanical you have, for only less than 20$ for both + and - pins.

I am so blindingly overwhelmed by the (literal) nuts and bolts of mechanicals that I'm not going to buy one until I can go to a shop and have someone educate me one-on-one. I can be a little thick-headed sometimes and it sounds to me like you really NEED to know what you're doing with mechanical mods, otherwise you waste a lot of money, encounter a LOT of frustration, and (worst case scenario) cause yourself bodily harm.

You don't REALLY have to know everything you do with mechs, as long as you're doing it safely. and you wont really waste a lot of cash, since all you have is an almost unbreakable mod and an RBA which will work pretty much all the time when the RBAs are coiled and a battery is inserted in a mod. all you really have to spend for is supplies, like wicks, mesh and resistance heating wires. But frustration is inevitable, unless you're Phil Ivey and you train your patience for a living. Injury is minimal if you are informed enough before you get into RBAs.

 

[zipflint]

Thanks for the encouragement gang. I'll probably get some kind of genesis-style atty first and try to perfect my mesh and coil. Once I'm satisfied I'll get some kind of "cheap" mechanical. The Natural seems like a good place to start. Of course I'm always eyeballing those iHybrids but I won't spend that kinda dough until I'm sure I can use it proficiently. Hell, I haven't even re-coiled any of the devices I have now. Carpal tunnel repair on both of my hands has left me with fumbly fingers.

 

[Soul_T]

Thanx for all the replys everyone. Definitly helped... Think im gonna order that china gg and give er a try... found it at Hoosier Vapes for only 29.99 with that sick discount they got going on right now until the end of the month. Regular priced at 47.99 but after u add it to ur cart and go to the next step it discounts $18 for ya, no discount code or nothing... meant to be i guess, lol...well thats how im gonna look at it n e ways ill c how i like it and go from there. Cant really go wrong at that price. Thanx again!

 

[tc1]

The biggest difference you'll notice with a low ohm coil on a genesis atomizer is the nicotine delivery.

Since a well made genesis wick will supply plenty of juice to the coil, less nicotine will be burned during firing ... the end result being that you'll intake more nicotine and "feel" it more.

I only use mechanical mods for my genesis atomizers these days. I use hand twisted 32 gauge @ around 0.8 ohms. The difference is VERY noticeable when you're hitting 20+ Watts.

 

[ukeman]

yeah but i notice the flavor improvement first... then i get sweats from the nic... lol
better than anything... and yeah low ohm (SLR) genesis is better on both counts in my book, i never could get a good coil going with 1.5 and up ... that 32 gauge and a VV or VW just never panned out for me.
28g is easiest for me... 4 or 5 wrap... zing

The biggest difference you'll notice with a low ohm coil on a genesis atomizer is the nicotine delivery.

Since a well made genesis wick will supply plenty of juice to the coil, less nicotine will be burned during firing ... the end result being that you'll intake more nicotine and "feel" it more.

I only use mechanical mods for my genesis atomizers these days. I use hand twisted 32 gauge @ around 0.8 ohms. The difference is VERY noticeable when you're hitting 20+ Watts.