Clean the lead contacts with the meter and make sure they have a solid connection.
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Leads, especially cheap leads, can sometimes loose contact between the wire and the connection or probe. Especially if they get stressed often or hard to break a wire or a bad solder joint. If you have a quality meter, test with just some copper wires and a known resistance (resistor). If it works, try picking up another set of leads.
If it's a cheap meter, it might be easier/cheaper to replace it.
If it's a cheap meter, it might be easier/cheaper to replace it.
I like the carto atty meters
like Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter - Meters - Accessories
23 bucks isnt too bad.
Ok thanks I will try this and cleaning! How do you mean test with copper wire? It was the only one they had at advance auto and cost about 20 bucks.
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Ah, well the wire trick probably won't work with that one.
If the leads can be unplugged from the meter, you could just use some wire as temporary leads to troubleshoot. But if they're molded into the meter, that would make it MUCH more difficult. And replacement leads might cost more than the meter.
If the leads can be unplugged from the meter, you could just use some wire as temporary leads to troubleshoot. But if they're molded into the meter, that would make it MUCH more difficult. And replacement leads might cost more than the meter.
If you recently got it take it back. It should read a steady 0 or very low 100th of an ohm when the leads are crossed.
I can take them out. So it's copper wire I should just stick into the connector ports?
I very well may just take it back. What's a cheaper recommended multimeter?
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Pm sterno for a battery tester lol he sent me one for free! It's like the Carto tank meters but it has two leads that you put on the pos and neg and it'll read your battery's voltage
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Any wire you can insert into the lead sockets (I didn't mean to imply bare copper). You might want to wedge them in there. Basically, just create your own leads for a quick check. If it works OK, then there may be a problem with your leads. It's been a long time since I bought test leads, but I'm sure they're available in multiple online stores - maybe even Radio Shack.
I do have a cheap portable Radio Shack multimeter that seems to do OK. I prefer to use my old, trusty Fluke 77, though.
I do have a cheap portable Radio Shack multimeter that seems to do OK. I prefer to use my old, trusty Fluke 77, though.
If you have a harbor freight or something similar, cheap tool store you can get a multimeter for like 5 bucks.
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You might also want to bookmark the spreadsheet that summarizes this thread HERE.
Wire Type & Gauge: 28g Kanthal A-1
Coil size (what you wrap it on):3/32 dremel drill bit (2.38mm)
Number of Coils: 9/8
Measured Ohms of coil: 1.3ohm (in an AGA-T2)
Coil size (what you wrap it on):3/32 dremel drill bit (2.38mm)
Number of Coils: 9/8
Measured Ohms of coil: 1.3ohm (in an AGA-T2)
Rene 41
Twisted
9wrap on 1/16th mandrel
.9 on Divo
I tried to get an 8 wrap r41 twist to sit sidesaddle (perpendicular to the posts) on the divo, but it wouldn't meter and while it fired momentarily, I figured safe rather than sorry. Here's the sad leftover.
Edited for clarity
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Twisted
9wrap on 1/16th mandrel
.9 on Divo
I tried to get an 8 wrap r41 twist to sit sidesaddle (perpendicular to the posts) on the divo, but it wouldn't meter and while it fired momentarily, I figured safe rather than sorry. Here's the sad leftover.
Edited for clarity
Sent from my mobile
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Yep. I wasn't aware you could get it in another gauge. I couldn't handle the th with the coil sitting so high, and lowering it made it come too close to the cap, so here's it's replacement.
26ga nichrome 80
10/11 wrap on a 1/16th mandrel
Sidesaddle on divo
.7 ohms.
Much better.
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26ga nichrome 80
10/11 wrap on a 1/16th mandrel
Sidesaddle on divo
.7 ohms.
Much better.
Sent from my mobile
26g A1 Kanth
9/10 wrap microcoil
1/16th drill bit
0.7 ohms
between the post's of an Rm2
9/10 wrap microcoil
1/16th drill bit
0.7 ohms
between the post's of an Rm2
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