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- Thread starter Lillie Bennett
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anyone vaping with mechanical who doesn't own a multimeter (and there are some) needs to see Post #10.
Funny, the site in your link says this statement is copyrighted. I sent an email to Sony customer service and support asking about the authenticity of VTC's sold by a reputable vendor and got an almost exact response. I still see VTC's being sold with the claim they are new and authentic. Makes me wonder how reputable these vendors are!
"Don't put magnets on flat-top batteries to try to make them button-tops."
I have been using a 4Nine mech mod used exclusively with AW IMR 18490 or 18350 (on RDAs which range from .8 to 1.4 ohms). If your not familiar with the 4Nine, it is a hybrid mod that uses a magnet which attaches directly to the negative battery post to "repel" the bottom switch mechanism. I really like it because of its size, simplicity, and the fact that it is very difficult to fire accidentally (i.e. if I fall asleep with it, or have it in my pocket/bag for example). I haven't been able to find much info on the effect of magnets being used on batteries, except for the occasional warning such as this on battery safety lists. Is using a magnet in this manner inherently dangerous? or does it change the properties of the battery over time, which can make it dangerous? Or is it dangerous on inferior batteries? Or whats the issue here exactly? Thanks.
I also appreciate the battery/ohm safety chart! I didn't realize that I was so close to the lower limit using the AW IMR 18350 with a .8 ohm atty.
I have been using a 4Nine mech mod used exclusively with AW IMR 18490 or 18350 (on RDAs which range from .8 to 1.4 ohms). If your not familiar with the 4Nine, it is a hybrid mod that uses a magnet which attaches directly to the negative battery post to "repel" the bottom switch mechanism. I really like it because of its size, simplicity, and the fact that it is very difficult to fire accidentally (i.e. if I fall asleep with it, or have it in my pocket/bag for example). I haven't been able to find much info on the effect of magnets being used on batteries, except for the occasional warning such as this on battery safety lists. Is using a magnet in this manner inherently dangerous? or does it change the properties of the battery over time, which can make it dangerous? Or is it dangerous on inferior batteries? Or whats the issue here exactly? Thanks.
I also appreciate the battery/ohm safety chart! I didn't realize that I was so close to the lower limit using the AW IMR 18350 with a .8 ohm atty.
The practice of using magnets on batteries is not adviseable because should you drop your mod accidentally, forceably moving the magnet, it could cause an immediate hard short to the battery, causing it to vent hot gas in thermal runaway. Should your mod not have adequate venting, then the mod becomes a pipe bomb.
Some mods (like the Provari) require the specific use of button top batteries as this prohibits inserting the batteries in backwards (preventing reverse polarity), also a potentially dangerous situation.
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That makes sense. In the case of the 4Nine, however, the magnet is placed inside a protective insulator "doughnut" which should (theoretically at least) prevent this. Any other dangers besides this — or is it just the shorting issue? Keep in mind I've been using this mech for over two years and have not had any problems, but I'm always on the lookout for potential dangers (such as recently learning that the bottom hole in the 4Nine is not actually a vent! but rather a place to adjust the bottom switch magnet. I need to drill some holes in this thing — what were they thinking!?)
In the case of a magnet in the position you describe, a slippage of the magnet that bridged between the battery and the mod would cause the mod to be firing all the time. Basically, it would just be bypassing the switch. Not as severe as if the magnet is on the positive, but still not a good situation to have
When a magnet is placed on the positive it creates the possibility of a hard short in one of two ways: 1) the magnet can contact the tube wall of the mod, bypassing the atomizer and creating a short through the tube, or 2) since the outer casing of the battery under the wrapper is all - the magnet could slip and bridge the connection between the positive contact and the outer shoulder of the battery (particularly if the wrapper was damaged on the corner of the cell), creating a hard short that no part of the mod is even part of. Either one of those is likely to have catastrophic results. Hence the recommendation to never put a magnet on the positive end in order to create a button top ;-)
When a magnet is placed on the positive it creates the possibility of a hard short in one of two ways: 1) the magnet can contact the tube wall of the mod, bypassing the atomizer and creating a short through the tube, or 2) since the outer casing of the battery under the wrapper is all - the magnet could slip and bridge the connection between the positive contact and the outer shoulder of the battery (particularly if the wrapper was damaged on the corner of the cell), creating a hard short that no part of the mod is even part of. Either one of those is likely to have catastrophic results. Hence the recommendation to never put a magnet on the positive end in order to create a button top ;-)
I have the XTar VP4 which I like a lot however it cannot charge NiCad batteries that you may have around the house. I also have the Nitecore Intelicharger I4 which will charge different types of rechargeable batteries. 
I've used an iStick 50 Watt for 1 year out of at least 2 vaping. Started on a cig-a-like, moved on to a e-go, then a 20 watt iStick, and now I got myself a mod Wismec made specifically for Beyond Vape, called the Centurion. I was hesitant to buy any mod that has batteries that need to be charged outside the mod, as the 50 watts from the iStick worked pretty well, at .4-.5 ohms. But alas, I bought it, and it takes 1 26650 or 1 18560 in a sleeve. I bought a 2 bay charger, thinking I would need to eventually anyway, and that it would be unsafe to use the USB. So far, I find the whole replaceable battery thing really annoying. First off, I am afraid every time I put this thing on the charger that the battery is going to explode in my office or something, and second, the life of even the 26650 is not even CLOSE to the iStick 50 watt. Its a Brillipower 3500 mah 26650 battery that came with it (supposedly 60 amps, doesn't say what the current is but I think maybe 6.8 on the website). Now, my build that read .4 on the iStick reads .33 on the Centurion, so I have been using it between 65-75 watts. I wanted the ability to go up in wattage so I didn't have to pull for a long time on my Mod, the guy at my shops uses a 150 watt mod and vapes at 120 watts with the same build. But he must have to either carry 6 batteries around with him, or 2 18650s is a lot better than 1 26650. The whole point was to be able to push the batteries in the mod, but it just drains them. The battery lasts maybe a half day before I have to charge it again, which I do when its around 3.7 volts because I am scared of the thing. I do get a nice vape when its ok but I just find the whole external charging thing a pain. I almost want to return it and buy one of the Lipo pack 150 watt mods they have (for ridiculous prices), even if I have to use a USB more often, its much easier than bringing a stupid charger around with me everywhere I go. I guess the remedy would be more batteries? In which case I think I should just go for a dual 18650 and buy 2 sets of batteries.
AC81, most vapers carry extra (spare) batteries with them in plastic battery cases.
The non-removeable batteries found in your iStick are Li-Po batteries. These are not safe chemistry, and are much more likely to flame or explode than the safer chemistry Li-Mn or IMR/ICR batteries which are removeable. Safer chemistry batteries usually will only vent gas when they go into thermal runaway. Therefore, many vapers prefer using them to Li-Po batteries for their added safety.
I recently got a Wismec RX200. It uses three replaceable 18650 batteries (I use the 3000mah LG HG2). I easily get three days between charges vaping at 30 watts.
Another way to look at it is a mod which uses internal batteries is totally useless once the battery passes its life expectancy (about 250 charge cycles). A mod which uses replaceable batteries need only have a $6 replacement battery. Better long term investment.
The non-removeable batteries found in your iStick are Li-Po batteries. These are not safe chemistry, and are much more likely to flame or explode than the safer chemistry Li-Mn or IMR/ICR batteries which are removeable. Safer chemistry batteries usually will only vent gas when they go into thermal runaway. Therefore, many vapers prefer using them to Li-Po batteries for their added safety.
I recently got a Wismec RX200. It uses three replaceable 18650 batteries (I use the 3000mah LG HG2). I easily get three days between charges vaping at 30 watts.
Another way to look at it is a mod which uses internal batteries is totally useless once the battery passes its life expectancy (about 250 charge cycles). A mod which uses replaceable batteries need only have a $6 replacement battery. Better long term investment.
Not sure if this is the right place for this question . Wondering if the efan x1 charger is a good safe charger? Thanks for any info anyone can give me. This will be my first e-cig battery charger I have been charging my batteries with the USB charger on the box mods I own.
I hope im at the right section. I just got my first regulated dna mod which is efusion duo and intent to run on the battery sled instead of lipo with a altus tank by guo. I've tried to research on the suitable 18650 battery for it and i still cant figure it out. My questions is since the altus tank is suitable in firing around 400 fahrenheit what is the best battery for me to use if i wanted something at a higher mah so it can last longer at the same time not losing too much firing power?
I wasn't familiar with this mod, so I googled it.
"Users can enjoy the full 200 watts with a 3S LiPo battery installed or 133 watts with two 18650 batteries installed (18650 sold separately)."
I had hoped that I would come across a manufacturer's recommended amp limit for the batteries used, but I didn't come across that information.
My recommendations for a high amp battery (at least 20 amps continuous discharge rate) and the highest mah rating possible would be the three batteries below, a good combination of amps and mah. All three batteries are quite comparable to one another.
LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20Amp CDR
Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mah 20Amp CDR
AW 18650 3000mah 20 Amp CDR
I wasn't familiar with this mod, so I googled it.
"Users can enjoy the full 200 watts with a 3S LiPo battery installed or 133 watts with two 18650 batteries installed (18650 sold separately)."
I had hoped that I would come across a manufacturer's recommended amp limit for the batteries used, but I didn't come across that information.
My recommendations for a high amp battery (at least 20 amps continuous discharge rate) and the highest mah rating possible would be the three batteries below, a good combination of amps and mah. All three batteries are quite comparable to one another.
LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20Amp CDR
Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mah 20Amp CDR
AW 18650 3000mah 20 Amp CDR
Thanks alot Baditude your recommendation helps alot
I guess I will get LG or Samsung that you have recommended. Don't really have a good experience with AW though
I just found a package of new batteries that was purchased back in 2013. They have never been used or taken from the original packing.
EH IMR 18650, LiMn 2000mAH 3.7V flat top
EH IMR 18350, LiMn 800mAH flat top
Will they be safe to use?
My current devices for possible use are...
Provape P3
Eleaf Pico 75W
Evic VTC mini 75W
I only use wattage mode between 8-11 watts, using resistances between 1.5-1.8 ohms.
I'm an old school MTL vaper, lol
Should I trash or are they safe to use? Any advice would be appreciated.
EH IMR 18650, LiMn 2000mAH 3.7V flat top
EH IMR 18350, LiMn 800mAH flat top
Will they be safe to use?
My current devices for possible use are...
Provape P3
Eleaf Pico 75W
Evic VTC mini 75W
I only use wattage mode between 8-11 watts, using resistances between 1.5-1.8 ohms.
I'm an old school MTL vaper, lol
Should I trash or are they safe to use? Any advice would be appreciated.
So they are at least 3 years old from date of purchase, and could have been sitting on a shelf for a year or so before that.
Do they have any charge on them? They may be totally dead, or with a voltage below 2.5 volts.
In any case, I'd put a PM in to Mooch to see what he says if I were you.
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