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going to have to get rid of that spring looks like it is about 1.5ohms before you get to the atty
I have suggested before take the t2 apart and use black tape on battery and on bottom of t2 will give you extra grip also you can wrap the tape a few times and use pliers gently.
I'm back. One of my most essential tools for dealing with all kinds of e-cig gear is a "PanaVise". It's a bench vise with a plastic jaw. I use it to deal with terminators, and had to use when I received my MKB because most of my parts came overtightened. Definitely my entire collector tank was crash-tight from the factory, and I had to use a vise with channel-lock (tongue-n-grove) pliers with a towel wrapped over the jaws.
An Electrical tape wrap of increasing size around any kind of rod or shaft is a priceless trick if you need to really wrench down on something. By increasing the diameter the effective leverage increases. It's best to use premium tape in this case; affectionately known as 3M Super 33+ in the trade. I've used a whole roll over a piece of thread-rod stuck in a wedge anchor once on the job - it's an essential method!
An Electrical tape wrap of increasing size around any kind of rod or shaft is a priceless trick if you need to really wrench down on something. By increasing the diameter the effective leverage increases. It's best to use premium tape in this case; affectionately known as 3M Super 33+ in the trade. I've used a whole roll over a piece of thread-rod stuck in a wedge anchor once on the job - it's an essential method!
I'm happy to say my MKB is working perfectly as is for the past week. Yeah, the switch design needs some work, but only in the double ring design. It needs a fixed ring to lock it to the body, or another ring on the inside.
No misfires, very little voltage drop (actually less VD than a Roller I bought when they first came out), zero issues....very happy with it. Granted, they probably could have made the walls a little thinner...to reduce the weight a bit, but other than that it's great!
Couldn't get the gg base to screw in, but I think it's the base at fault there...bad spot on the threads. I have a new on coming that should be here any day now, so hopefully there will be no issues.
Like it enough, I didn't hesitate to jump on the Facebook group buy for another set.
No misfires, very little voltage drop (actually less VD than a Roller I bought when they first came out), zero issues....very happy with it. Granted, they probably could have made the walls a little thinner...to reduce the weight a bit, but other than that it's great!
Couldn't get the gg base to screw in, but I think it's the base at fault there...bad spot on the threads. I have a new on coming that should be here any day now, so hopefully there will be no issues.
Like it enough, I didn't hesitate to jump on the Facebook group buy for another set.
Got mine from the coop today. Had to use a small cone wire brush on the inside threads of the MKB and a little dab of valve grinding compound to smooth out the threads for the Ody GG base to fit right. One on far right is one I had to start with.
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Got mine from the coop today. Had to use a small cone wire brush on the inside threads of the MKB and a little dab of valve grinding compound to smooth out the threads for the Ody GG base to fit right. One on far right is one I had to start with.
I love my cc kts. Or whatever you want to call it....paid extra to have threads checked and lubed before shipping. That paid off I think...but speaking of the oddy...I want to kill mine. I have plenty of great rbs and rda...but this thing will not wick and is all dry hits. Fubar.
Anyway. Kts clone is great. Love the switch compared to the sig 8. No wabble at all and nice short throw. I did have to take apart the 510 post and rebuild it because it was shallow and not contacting any of my attys
The KTS is a completely different mod than the MKB....which is a true GGTS clone. Never understood why the KTS was called the clone...it's much different.
And the KTS is a Chinese mod, and if my memory serves me right, the MKB is German made along with the Terminator and Euphoria.
Someone can correct (and I'm sure someone will) if I m wrong.
And the KTS is a Chinese mod, and if my memory serves me right, the MKB is German made along with the Terminator and Euphoria.
Someone can correct (and I'm sure someone will) if I m wrong.
I think a German outfit had it made for them in China (I think)
My first and second Term's, standard size, came in a small box that said "China"
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My MKB-TS arrived yesterday... This is by far, the BEST quality mechanical SS mod I've seen come out of China in my 2 1/2+ years of vaping! More than worth the $70.00 I spent. I'm very impressed with the threading and overall machining.
I've owned 2 GGTS's before, and aside from finishing quality, the MKB-TS is pretty much the same. I've been putting the adjustable draw to work with a 510 atty & carto... SWEET!!
Can't wait to grab a Terminator-C, (sold my 1st Terminator) and be able to have a honkin'-solid connection directly with the MKB-TS body. (using the Oddy to GGTS base I just ordered from Greece)
inganeer: How difficult was it to work the oddy / GGTS base threads into the MKB-TS till flush? Also, does your CoOp unit retain the GGTS style connector and floating pin of the earlier runs? I knew Discount Vapers had older stock, and wanted to be sure I got one before the change.
More than worth the $70.00 I spent. I'm very impressed with the threading and overall machining.I've owned 2 GGTS's before, and aside from finishing quality, the MKB-TS is pretty much the same. I've been putting the adjustable draw to work with a 510 atty & carto... SWEET!!
Can't wait to grab a Terminator-C, (sold my 1st Terminator) and be able to have a honkin'-solid connection directly with the MKB-TS body. (using the Oddy to GGTS base I just ordered from Greece) inganeer: How difficult was it to work the oddy / GGTS base threads into the MKB-TS till flush? Also, does your CoOp unit retain the GGTS style connector and floating pin of the earlier runs? I knew Discount Vapers had older stock, and wanted to be sure I got one before the change.
I just put a GGTS base on my term tonight...and my only issue was bad threads on the base...from the previous owner. Once I got the threads cleaned up, it fit like it was supposed to be there! (And looks it too! ) of course I had to brush to make the finishes match...
Put my UFS on it too (from the same guy), and it also fit nicely, though I'm not going to keep it (the UFS). I got it to put my Diver rebuildable in, but it didn't work out good at all. Open the juice control even slightly, and the tank just empties in the collector tank.
) of course I had to brush to make the finishes match...Put my UFS on it too (from the same guy), and it also fit nicely, though I'm not going to keep it (the UFS). I got it to put my Diver rebuildable in, but it didn't work out good at all. Open the juice control even slightly, and the tank just empties in the collector tank.
I just put a GGTS base on my term tonight...and my only issue was bad threads on the base...from the previous owner. Once I got the threads cleaned up, it fit like it was supposed to be there! (And looks it too!
Put my UFS on it too (from the same guy), and it also fit nicely, though I'm not going to keep it (the UFS). I got it to put my Diver rebuildable in, but it didn't work out good at all. Open the juice control even slightly, and the tank just empties in the collector tank.
View attachment 216925
Good to know about the Oddy / GGTS base.
I'm hoping my new one will be smooth-sailing when it arrives. Small world... I also have a Diver on the way, and thought about getting a UFS for it. Do you think the issue has something to do with the flange on the Diver?I heard some of the latest run are flangeless, and put a specific request for one when I ordered a few days ago.
No, I ground the flange of as soon as I got it. It's because it doesn't have the same connector as an atty or carto. As soon as you open the liquid control, it just runs right through the connector. It will work if you leave the liquid control closed, but looks like crap that way, too much space between the ring and the base.
It's always harder to "stay on topic" these days because we find ourselves INTEGRATING so much. Sure the 510 connection is universal, good luck 'cause everything doesn't always go smoothly.
SO in the spirit of GGTS bases... I did not know the UFS supports a GGTS base also. I am UFS illiterate. Thanks UA72Riddle and Technonut
for discussing The Diver as it relates to a UFS with a GGTS base that will mount to an MKB. That's the INTEGRATION, or lack there of in this case.
I also own one Diver, flange in-tact, and have another Diver on order with special request for no flange. My plan is to own one of each, as my quest for the perfect Diver tank continues. Holding out a bit until Atmistique debuts their tank. Now I know to overlook the UFS! Tanks I'm stalking: "The Flask" (back in stock), Loki Tank by Atmomixani, and Project Salt and Pepper. I have used Fotia and Tripolitis by Kir Fanis, but I'm unhappy about the flange with these. Also they are vented bottom caps, so MKB-TS airflow is defeated. I'm very curious about the AGR Tank, and the Boge F-Series. I just don't believe in anything that costs under $20 anymore.
I think we should collate a list of GGTS-base-enabled atomizers. Another I came across is the "Diablo Vaporizer for GGTS (DVG)". This is a Genesis Style device, that is also Out-of-stock most of the time. Has anyone put one of these on an MKB-TS?
https://www.eonvape.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DIABLO-DVG
I like the looks of the DVG; although at that price would expect a dual-wick option. I recently got into Copper Creek Houseblend and am loving the flavor from an AGA-T2. So it's got me looking for a better Genesis style for my MKB. AGA is fine, but mine has a dodgy 510 threading and the top cap is loosey goosey. Hence the desire for the GGTS connection over 510.
So three GGTS Native Atomizer systems mentioned here are:
Oddyseus/Ithaka/UFS
Terminator Tanks with GGTS-base upgrade
Z-Atty-G
DVG for GGTS
SO in the spirit of GGTS bases... I did not know the UFS supports a GGTS base also. I am UFS illiterate. Thanks UA72Riddle and Technonut
for discussing The Diver as it relates to a UFS with a GGTS base that will mount to an MKB. That's the INTEGRATION, or lack there of in this case.
I also own one Diver, flange in-tact, and have another Diver on order with special request for no flange. My plan is to own one of each, as my quest for the perfect Diver tank continues. Holding out a bit until Atmistique debuts their tank. Now I know to overlook the UFS! Tanks I'm stalking: "The Flask" (back in stock), Loki Tank by Atmomixani, and Project Salt and Pepper. I have used Fotia and Tripolitis by Kir Fanis, but I'm unhappy about the flange with these. Also they are vented bottom caps, so MKB-TS airflow is defeated. I'm very curious about the AGR Tank, and the Boge F-Series. I just don't believe in anything that costs under $20 anymore.
I think we should collate a list of GGTS-base-enabled atomizers. Another I came across is the "Diablo Vaporizer for GGTS (DVG)". This is a Genesis Style device, that is also Out-of-stock most of the time. Has anyone put one of these on an MKB-TS?
https://www.eonvape.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=DIABLO-DVG
I like the looks of the DVG; although at that price would expect a dual-wick option. I recently got into Copper Creek Houseblend and am loving the flavor from an AGA-T2. So it's got me looking for a better Genesis style for my MKB. AGA is fine, but mine has a dodgy 510 threading and the top cap is loosey goosey. Hence the desire for the GGTS connection over 510.
So three GGTS Native Atomizer systems mentioned here are:
Oddyseus/Ithaka/UFS
Terminator Tanks with GGTS-base upgrade
Z-Atty-G
DVG for GGTS
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I'm looking at the far right, trying to spot a GGTS base, but all I see is a Genesis atomizer with a TS connection. Is that a Zen? I'm confused, I thought we were making Oddy's fit with a GGTS (middle pic?). I am desiring a Genesis TS connection. Is this configuration your showing Unicorn status, or is that something I can get my hands on?
Got mine from the coop today. Had to use a small cone wire brush on the inside threads of the MKB and a little dab of valve grinding compound to smooth out the threads for the Ody GG base to fit right. One on far right is one I had to start with.
Personally, I went for the Diver with no flange to hopefully work well in the AGR tank. I like the carto lock, SS construction, and the top fill.
You can add the GG AVS to the list. I still see them pop up on the classies from time to time. The ones I had back in the day worked well with cartos. I did not care for the fact they were made from aluminum. AVS TUTORIAL - AUTOMATIC VAPN SYSTEM FOR THE GGTS ELECTRONIC CIGARETTE - YouTube
EDIT: Anyone know if the GG adjustable draw top cap fits the MKB-TS? I see the connector will take an 801, and I still have a bunch of good mid-length Ikenvape 801 attys. It would be great to buy an GG 801 AD cap for it to use them...
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The UFS has a built in collector tank...the part you remove to put the Stealth Cap on.
Ive done it,got all my pieces together
One advantage of not being home alot lately is the mail was stacked up,my adapter for the terminator base and a brand shiney new terminator V-2 (i think,the ground wire grounds inside the wick channel) so I can use this the way it was ment to be.
N/R wire is still in the mail,but Im hoping to wick up the terminator this coming weekend.I hope too atleast,Friday is the soonest I can expect the wire, sent letterpost.
So many thanx to those who helped me get this far.....Ill let you know how it goes
One advantage of not being home alot lately is the mail was stacked up,my adapter for the terminator base and a brand shiney new terminator V-2 (i think,the ground wire grounds inside the wick channel) so I can use this the way it was ment to be.
N/R wire is still in the mail,but Im hoping to wick up the terminator this coming weekend.I hope too atleast,Friday is the soonest I can expect the wire, sent letterpost.
So many thanx to those who helped me get this far.....Ill let you know how it goes
I understand your thinking, but that's not exactly correct, even with the v2. The ring is meant to hold the nr wire as well as keep the assembly in place. Yes, there are many ways to set this up...but that was the design.
NR-R wire setups leave the R leg long adding resistance to the coil, and extra heat to the body. Of course, my opinion is just that...an opinion. I will always use NR-R-NR for my setups. And now after trying the dual coil set up...I will stick to single coil. The performance of my single coil is far more reliable, and I don't have to hold the button down to preheat the coil.
NR-R wire setups leave the R leg long adding resistance to the coil, and extra heat to the body. Of course, my opinion is just that...an opinion. I will always use NR-R-NR for my setups. And now after trying the dual coil set up...I will stick to single coil. The performance of my single coil is far more reliable, and I don't have to hold the button down to preheat the coil.
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