MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

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Technonut

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Well one thing why your voltage drop seems little is the fact that you use a 2ohm coil the reasn for switch shiming contact modding. Is for sub ohm coils .9ohms or less the lower the ohms the greater the drop with crap connections



Actually, I usually go for around 1.4-1.8.. Recently with a dual-coil Herc, 1.0 ohm.. I only used the Kanger since my Term C's and Herc are not on 510 bases, and I don't want to take them apart.. I have never had issues with a hot switch, and personally believe sub-ohm vaping is potentially dangerous, foolish, and very hard on batts... ;)
 

dhomes

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Have you tried it with your spring back in? There has to be something completing the positive- negative connection...

EDIT: Make sure there is no water at all trapped in the bottom cap vents...

I dried the bejesus out of it but will retry again, the hotspring is gone as it collapsed a few weeks ago when i used an extender from vaporbank, with the ego+510 shorty i use now there are no problems

I dont live in the USA , so any replacement would take a month or so to get here
 

dwcraig1

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Isnt the bottom cap conductive? If so, the battery's negative is attached to it, and it itself to the body, so there is always negative loading UNLESS the bottom part (where one screws to the tube) had some non conductive layer of paint, which the acidic bath could have removed
Only two ways for this to happen
1. skin on the side of the battery is broken or missing
2. the axis is electrically connected to it's end cap (shorted to each other) Measure the resistance between the axis and bottom cap, there should be no reading, completely open.
 

dhomes

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Only two ways for this to happen
1. skin on the side of the battery is broken or missing
2. the axis is electrically connected to it's end cap (shorted to each other) Measure the resistance between the axis and bottom cap, there should be no reading, completely open.


what axis?

sadly my multimeter isn't reading reasistance somehow (everything else fine)
 

dhomes

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Only two ways for this to happen
1. skin on the side of the battery is broken or missing
2. the axis is electrically connected to it's end cap (shorted to each other) Measure the resistance between the axis and bottom cap, there should be no reading, completely open.


it seems to be #2, there is some black gulp between the center negative post & the end cap (in the inside at the bottom)

removing as much as I could with a qtip reduced the voltage to .9 volts (from 2.4)

anythin I could do to fix this?
 

dhomes

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btw, is there any problem wrapping a battery in plumber's tape?

one of mine does have a small chipping in the wrapping, nothing mayor though. just the sides, not top or bottom

but it wasn't the battery, i knew this cause i took a brand new ~ first time use ever ~ out of a box and still had the same problem
 

ktombs1

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Hated my original contacts they did not line up well and made a bad connection so I made my own pure copper contacts and its amazing gg don't got .... on this haha I forgot to say that my positive post on the top cap goes all the way through the 510 adapter so my center post makes direct contact with any atty. I put on iit

Sweet, so I guess I can ask you, how does the brass axis come out of the bottom cap.
 

Slartibartfast

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Has anyone found a solution for the sharp edges on the button. I'm thinking if brass screw can be modded to replace it.

You could also try to replace the buttons. I find these brass ones at my local Ace Hardware. I wish I had measurements or part numbers for you but I don't. I just went in with the firing pin and started searching the junk drawers of brass nuts, bolts, and crap till I got lucky. The stems are long on them so I just cut them to length with my cheap dremel. Makes a good backup to shimming...I never have misfires.

buttons.jpg
 
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