MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

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Technonut

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I missed one in the classifieds yesterday by a minute..:(. Been watching for a bargain on one. The CFO said I have exceeded my allowance for the month.

I hear you... :) Here's a pic on how the Herc's AFC ring looks on the MKB-TS... (Hopefully Stormy will carry a full line of parts for these soon like she did for the Terminator. It would be nice to get the ring separately.. :)


IMG_1707_zps67222f21.jpg
 

Technonut

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This mod sucks i've tried evry thing to make this hit hard like my k100 and the best i can get it to hit is a .62 volt drop my k100 out performs this mech @ .26 volt drop what a waste

Many of us like it just fine... :) Sorry it's not working out for you.. Not everyone is concerned with miniscule voltage drops when the mod paired with the GG Oddy to GGTS connector, Terminator C or Ithaka hits like a steam engine as designed..;) Theres plenty of info here in this thread on performance tips.. Till then..

callsomeonecares-DirkPhoenix.jpg



EDIT: Vape Squad tested the mod, and came up with a voltage drop of .33... (I have not concerned myself with this in almost 3 years of vaping, so I never bothered testing.. If I like the vape, it's good enough.. ;) )

http://www.vapesquad.com/the-rainbow-heaven-mkb-ts/

Performance of the mod was unexpectedly good for a Chinese mod. The use of brass contacts internally seems to improve throughput greatly, and the MKB-TS exhibited an average voltage retention of approximately 92% in our tests (a drop of .33 volts of a 4.25 volt charge) both with adapters and without, putting it up there with some of the best we’ve tested.
 
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ukeman

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Many of us like it just fine... :) Sorry it's not working out for you.. Not everyone is concerned with miniscule voltage drops when the mod paired with the GG Oddy to GGTS connector, Terminator C or Ithaka hits like a steam engine as designed..;) Theres plenty of info here in this thread on performance tips.. Till then..

callsomeonecares-DirkPhoenix.jpg



EDIT: Vape Squad tested the mod, and came up with a voltage drop of .33... (I have not concerned myself with this in almost 3 years of vaping, so I never bothered testing.. If I like the vape, it's good enough.. ;) )

http://www.vapesquad.com/the-rainbow-heaven-mkb-ts/

True... after shimming went from .7+ v drop to about .2+ to .3+ using same atty (about 1.2 Ohms) similar to K100.
I was having trouble with my button/switch... heat.
now no heat.

* about the button: its important to take apart and tighten everything up properly.

ask Vince159 what the shim spec is.... its posted here somewhere.

Love this device...

K100 is cool ... but this is more of an APV imo because of the design.... GG type telescopic.... with stealth cap its like an EA. Flat bottom, side button is much better.
 

dwcraig1

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This mod sucks i've tried evry thing to make this hit hard like my k100 and the best i can get it to hit is a .62 volt drop my k100 out performs this mech @ .26 volt drop what a waste
You will find plenty of support for your device here if you approach it "differently".
 

deezdrama

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Speaking of button shimming... anyone have a pic or a link to the procedure?

I love my mkb-ts it feels high quality for the price and my term c with kayfun kit chugs along great with the ggts base and air control.

Only problem is I dont want to put it in my pocket because im scared of a misfire.

Do you guys pocket yours? Seems like the buttons safety lockring needs to be tightened all the way down or the button loosens
 

ukeman

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Speaking of button shimming... anyone have a pic or a link to the procedure?

I love my mkb-ts it feels high quality for the price and my term c with kayfun kit chugs along great with the ggts base and air control.

Only problem is I dont want to put it in my pocket because im scared of a misfire.

Do you guys pocket yours? Seems like the buttons safety lockring needs to be tightened all the way down or the button loosens
I don't "know" these buttons well enough to say...
You should at least take apart and tighten everything properly.
DW Craig and Vince and Upsetter21 get credit for the shim... yes there is photos of where it goes.
This thread has gotten so big i couldn't say where but its in a couple different places.
If I could do it, anyone can.

Rule62 provided the spec... 8.8mmx8mm and i think its .02" brass sheeting.
It goes inside the cylinder over the screw.
 

deezdrama

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I got the shimming material (thanks clancey0below) just haven't got around to it.... now cant find the pic lol.

Whats the proper way to tighten the button? It seems like I have to thread the button housing in pretty far just to get enough throw to make contact, but the button doesnt have to be pushed in very far to make contact...hope that makes sense.

And it just seems like its too fiddly to use the safety lock.




I don't "know" these buttons well enough to say...
You should at least take apart and tighten everything properly.
DW Craig and Vince and Upsetter21 get credit for the shim... yes there is photos of where it goes.
This thread has gotten so big i couldn't say where but its in a couple different places.
If I could do it, anyone can.

Rule62 provided the spec... 8.8mmx8mm and i think its .02" brass sheeting.
It goes inside the cylinder over the screw.
 
Hated my original contacts they did not line up well and made a bad connection so I made my own pure copper contacts and its amazing gg don't got .... on this haha I forgot to say that my positive post on the top cap goes all the way through the 510 adapter so my center post makes direct contact with any atty. I put on iit
 

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Technonut

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For what it's worth, I just put a 6 month+ old freshly charged , then rested for a few hours Panny CGR 18650 in my MKB-TS with no switch shim mod, stock firing pin, and stock axis spring with a Provape milled SS eGo adapter on the connector. I keep all contacts on my mod clean, and the switch tightened. I have none of my Term C's or Herc set up with a 510 base, or I would have tested them.. I have 10 of these Pannys in rotation, and all are well used..

Using a Craftsman autoranging multimeter, the battery tested at 4.17v... On the MKB-TS using my voltage / load tester, it read 4.17v.. I installed a metered 2.0 ohm Kanger T3 on the voltage / load tester, and pressed the button, letting it cycle 3 times before taking a pic.. EDIT: On the 2nd cycle under load, the meter read 3.93v..

No Load:

IMG_1712_zps7b0ec8e3.jpg



Kanger T3 2.0 ohm Load:


IMG_1716_zps4190c551.jpg
 
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dhomes

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Hey guys, problem with my MKB

I removed the hotspring a couple of weeks ago,

it has been working fine

today I decided to give some maintenance to all my mechs, disassembled the whole device (down to extender & positive post), removed all the plastic parts and submerged all the metallic ones in an oxi-removal liquid (fluoride acid base) for about 10 mins

rinsed with lots of water, dried it and put back together

placed my .8 ohm genny, fired away & got 3.9 volts on a fresh Panasonic batt

problem is, when I release the button, the geeny keeps firing!!! put voltimeter, a load of 2.1 ~ 2.4 volts keeps going through

while firing with this phantom load I removed the button, so the only contacts points are the positive post & the bottom cap!

what could be causing this? this happen even without the collector & extenders, so my MKB is discharging even at its bare minimum configuration.

ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED
 

Technonut

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Oct 11, 2010
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Hey guys, problem with my MKB

I removed the hotspring a couple of weeks ago,

it has been working fine

today I decided to give some maintenance to all my mechs, disassembled the whole device (down to extender & positive post), removed all the plastic parts and submerged all the metallic ones in an oxi-removal liquid (fluoride acid base) for about 10 mins

rinsed with lots of water, dried it and put back together

placed my .8 ohm genny, fired away & got 3.9 volts on a fresh Panasonic batt

problem is, when I release the button, the geeny keeps firing!!! put voltimeter, a load of 2.1 ~ 2.4 volts keeps going through

while firing with this phantom load I removed the button, so the only contacts points are the positive post & the bottom cap!

what could be causing this? this happen even without the collector & extenders, so my MKB is discharging even at its bare minimum configuration. IDK.. maybe water trapped in the bottom cap vents?...

ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED


Have you tried it with your spring back in? There has to be something completing the positive- negative connection...

EDIT: Make sure there is no water at all trapped in the bottom cap vents...
 
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