MKB-TS Mechanical Mod (GGTS Clone)

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dwcraig1

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I don't believe I've ever read anything about checking voltage drop this way anywhere here before but this is how to locate the problem spot(s). By using an inline voltage meter you are adding another spot for error as well as only seeing that a problem exists but not where it's located at. Also when using a GGTS connection the meter doesn't fit plus you need to know the drop on the battery as well.
I never find any problems with where the battery makes contact but i also keep them clean 'cause either they shine or they don't, too easy.
Now where I do find the voltage loss is at some places that look to have no problem at all and that is the threads were the tubes screw together.

Here is how measure for voltage drop. I set volt meter to 20 v dc scale and put the positive lead right on the fire button and the negative lead on the base of the atty, fire it and read the voltage. Once you see a high drop ( say .5v) you can move the leads to different tubes to find the bad spot(s).

Tonight I checked my DHX-TS with a 0.7 ohm atty and got a reading of .5+, I expected to find that the problem would be the switch but it was at the upper end of the telescope tube.
The fix: I tear it all down and scrub the threads with a tooth brush and Arm and Hammer baking soda and dry and re-assemble and re-check.
VD now is .9 - .16 which is about as good as can be expected from a telescoping ss mod.
Here's a picture but I couldn't fire it and snap the picture.
1483147_705765412781019_457408272_n.jpg

Let me just add, with a 0.7 ohm load and a .5 volt loss the 20 watt vape turns into 15 watts (approx)

Note: picture is of MKB-TS and my good meter is at home
 
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Dj Xy

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Quick question for the experts. I lost the oring from the air control ring on my MKB-TS, any ideas where to get one?
it uses the same size as a GGTS 1.5mm x 21mm, clouds of vapor sells them, if they are out of stock then any oring seller would have them
 

Slartibartfast

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I had the same idea for a pocket stealth mod using parts with both mods. From bottom to top this is the brass chi you clone bottom cap/firing switch, then an mkb-ts top tube, then the middle length tube from the brass chi you mod, then the mkb-ts stealth cap on top. The whole thing is the perfect length to hold an 18350 with a kick (though I did unscrew the pin in the stealth cap a few turns to make a solid connection.

pocket mod.jpg
 

camperman

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I have a small problem in that my MKB fell of the seat in my van on to the concrete floor when I opened the door and it has damaged the vented gold plated bottom cap, now I know a genuine GGTS bottom cap fits as I've tried a genuine SS cap but obviously the pole/spring is not as fat as the MKBs so the button will not reach so I was wondering if anybody had tried taking apart a genuine GG switch and using the longer button so it reaches the vented caps pole.
Failing this has anybody got spare MKB bottom caps as I can't seem to find any on sale to buy separate and I'm also looking to buy a couple of clone stealth caps if somebody can point me in the right direction.
 

Technonut

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Anybody got a idea how I can fix my device.
The fire button gets hot. It doesn't matter what I use for a delivery device.
The button gets hot no matter what.
It is the battery tube addressed in this thread.


Just go to the top of the page, click the "Search Thread" tab, and type in: switch shim
 

dwcraig1

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Thank you sir. I will do that presently.
I have found also that due to the expansion and contraction with the button heating up and cooling down the two parts of the button that screw together become loose causing even more heat. The button and plunger needs to be checked periodically to insure it's still tight.
There is a fix for that if it keeps coming loose way back in the threads, it involves putting something like a really small nut inside the button for the plunger to tighten against otherwise it tightens because it ran out of threads.
 

Gimpy1261

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I have found also that due to the expansion and contraction with the button heating up and cooling down the two parts of the button that screw together become loose causing even more heat. The button and plunger needs to be checked periodically to insure it's still tight.
There is a fix for that if it keeps coming loose way back in the threads, it involves putting something like a really small nut inside the button for the plunger to tighten against otherwise it tightens because it ran out of threads.

I'm a dufus on most every thing computer related, I looked and looked in this thread and I still haven't found the solution, pictures, or anything. I'm not even sure now that what I have is a mkbts, according to that stormy place it isn't, mine doesn't look like w hat is in that shop, listing.
Discount Vapor is where I bought it I think and it has always gotten hot.
If I could fix it I would use it but since I can't, I won't. Probably not safe like it is.
There is a long story attached to why I haven't tried to use before now, I will just put it back where I have. Been keeping it.
Thank ya'll for trying to help me.
 
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