- Status
Anyone else use their mkb today? Just a typical Thursday for me, working on cars.
As a matter of fact, I did use my MKBs today 
I dont even watch baseball!
I dont even watch baseball!
Last edited:
I'm looking at getting one of these, only place I can find it in stock is dragonfly ecigs. Is there any other place that has it for less than 60.00 in stock.. Or is the one at dragonfly any good? Possibly a tobecco version, I would like a rainbo but can't find it in stock anywhere.
This one (DHX-TS) is not a Rainbow, it is Ehpro, I have one and would buy another like it if I wanted another. I have two Rainbows as well.
MKB TS (GGTS clone) w/ 510 adapter
And with the discount code "10OFF" Stormy has 'em for $80
MKB-TS (Telescope) APV w/ adapter
And some where over seas, probably China, here:
http://vapourtrend.com/shop/mkb-ts-ggts-clone/polished-mkb-ts-detail
The one at Dragonfly appears to be from Ehpro also but I'm not sure.
Last edited:
It looks like eh, are those the only 2 builds out there like that? My max budget is 60 so its gonna be this or a sigelei zmax v3 tele.
Thanks
Thanks
View attachment 265755 Just sharing my MKB-TS and DHX-TS both polished
WOW...Beautiful! I gotta polish one of mine; but then I'd want to build a display case and seal it up dust and finger print free
Be aware that the 510 threading on the Sigelei is probably brass and will wear larger in no time if used with an ss threaded atty.
If your going to be using it 510 the Ehpro EA would be a good choice and around $42
Most definately want a stainless 510. I've been through 2 mods in 3 months with the choddy. 510 pulled out on one and stripped the other, both kamry's. Plated brass is no good. Some one said the ss zmax v3 telescopic flat top had stainless threads. But they could be wrong. I wish they would state what thier threads are on all mods.
But isn't the 510 on the mkb adapter plated brass too?
I just want the sturdiest 510 I can get for under 60. Magneto is solid stainless. And a few others. The chiyou looks really nice the way the 510 is recessed but I wonder if its brass plate and press fit.
I guess i need a gg native atty instead if this choddy then I wouldn't have to worry bout this at all !
But isn't the 510 on the mkb adapter plated brass too?
I just want the sturdiest 510 I can get for under 60. Magneto is solid stainless. And a few others. The chiyou looks really nice the way the 510 is recessed but I wonder if its brass plate and press fit.
I guess i need a gg native atty instead if this choddy then I wouldn't have to worry bout this at all !
I'm basing my answer on my Sigelei Zmax (regular one)
At least with the MKB you can easily change the adapter as necessary. With a 22mm atomizer an Ego adapter without the gold top works nicely, it gives the appearance os GGTS being used.
Last edited:
Yeah Craig I was already on your first link, Vern's waiting to come back in stock. Missed his sigelei v3 deal by one day. Replacing the 510 for 5.00 is a big plus on the mkbs. Anyone know what the voltage drop is on these? Compared to chiyou?
Just wanted to say thanks to @Upsetter21 who hooked me up with a shim and advised me to remove the base spring. My MBK w/ Hercules (native connection) is hitting better than ever and the button does not get hot anymore.
Glad to have helped a fellow vaper. Only wish my center post(s) worked out for you. The Ithaka/Hercules post is so long it defeats my design intended for Odysseus/Terminator/Polish-Kayfun-Konversion. I'm hoping to do some modding this week, and I'll post the results here.
My friend had an old center pin for his original Odysseus he wasn't using so we decided to put it in my Hercules. It shortened the mod as the Odyssues center pin is not nearly as long as the Hercules. I plan on trying to use the custom center pin you sent me today and i will try to post some pic's later today if i have time.
@rjs987:
I've not encountered a genuine Odysseus in person, so I can't exactly speak to that. The availability of the Terminator trumped my will to obtain a real one (my personal thoughts on clones have ebbed and flowed all year long). So speaking only with the parts in my possession, I can definitively say that you are on the right track, if indeed you like the way my custom MKB center pin works and truly prefer to make it work with your Hercules despite a few technical obsticles. However, you may need to rethink a little:
I just tried to replace my RH Hercules center pin assembly with that of a Terminator V1 (I have no V2). Mine was a no go. The Terminator pin cannot reach the nut inside the Hercules ceramic. This is due to the protrusion of the threaded part on the bottom of the steel ceramic holder of Hercules. I'm referring to where the plastic nut threads on to catch the ground (-) wire. If that where to be taken away, say ground off or cut off, it would probably work out but then you wouldn't be able to go back to the usual Hercules setup.
Instead, you may consider obtaining a Terminator rebuildable assembly in its entirety. They appear to be available at Stormy's still. It stinks to keep throwing money at a mod, I know but it's just like any other hobby. I just confirmed that my Terminator assembly fits into the Hercules basic juice feed without a hitch and the positive post extends the desired length from the base with the GGTS native threads to work with the custom MKB center post. I recommend doubling up the o-ring at the bottom of the Terminator parts, and leave out the locking ring. Doing so causes the Terminator parts to line up more like the Hercules' own parts, allowing proper alignment of the mouthpiece.
There are a couple things to know about setting up the terminator that always need to be said to a newer user: Capture the positive wire with the O-rings, not the steel nut and getting the negative connection without using the lock ring takes some practice. I use AWG30 nickle for my non-resistive legs and simply coil the negative leg until it fills up that channel of the ceramic. When the whole assembly is installed in the base. I then use a very small screw driver to bunch the coiled negative leg to ensure that it has total contact with the steel body of the atomizer. This is probably all easier with a Terminator V2 rebuildable assembly, but as I mentioned I don't have one and have no will to get one. The Terminator V1's work out really well for me.
In my opinion the Hercules dual-coil/dual-channel bit is a tad over rated and I find the airflow to be too restricted. Indeed it's able to wick better than a stock Terminator V1, but I have modded my ceramics according to the wise words of @dwcraig1 and find the resulting wicking to be better than what I'm experiencing on the Hercules. Specifically, I use a dremel tool to grind out the side channels of the Terminator ceramics. I also wick according to the Mr. Krinkle method. I've followed many trends while vaping, but for me not everything was a good idea. Sub-ohm vaping, and dual coils in general haven't gotten me to a more pleasurable experience. For a few fruity flavors a dual coil seems better, but this can still be achieved with a single channel using the Highlander method.
I'm locked in a routine now using AWG32 Kanthal single micro coil at 1.6Ohms and 4 strands of cotton yarn. In my experience, doing everything I could to reduce volt drop on the mech (ie~ brass shim, custom center post, and no battery spring) did more for the vape than getting all crazy with low ohm's.
Cloud chasing was fun for tinkering in the past, but with my simple setup I still have to put the mod down to keep from getting nic'd out at 6mg, and have to open a window in my large living room when the wife & are enjoying a movie else the TV becomes hard to see. Flavor is as strong as it will ever be, and my analog smoking classmates still open eyes wide and say "holy s(you know what)" when we're enjoying our individual stogies in the school parking lot.
Hope this helps, and don't give up so long as you're having fun.
I've not encountered a genuine Odysseus in person, so I can't exactly speak to that. The availability of the Terminator trumped my will to obtain a real one (my personal thoughts on clones have ebbed and flowed all year long). So speaking only with the parts in my possession, I can definitively say that you are on the right track, if indeed you like the way my custom MKB center pin works and truly prefer to make it work with your Hercules despite a few technical obsticles. However, you may need to rethink a little:
I just tried to replace my RH Hercules center pin assembly with that of a Terminator V1 (I have no V2). Mine was a no go. The Terminator pin cannot reach the nut inside the Hercules ceramic. This is due to the protrusion of the threaded part on the bottom of the steel ceramic holder of Hercules. I'm referring to where the plastic nut threads on to catch the ground (-) wire. If that where to be taken away, say ground off or cut off, it would probably work out but then you wouldn't be able to go back to the usual Hercules setup.
Instead, you may consider obtaining a Terminator rebuildable assembly in its entirety. They appear to be available at Stormy's still. It stinks to keep throwing money at a mod, I know but it's just like any other hobby. I just confirmed that my Terminator assembly fits into the Hercules basic juice feed without a hitch and the positive post extends the desired length from the base with the GGTS native threads to work with the custom MKB center post. I recommend doubling up the o-ring at the bottom of the Terminator parts, and leave out the locking ring. Doing so causes the Terminator parts to line up more like the Hercules' own parts, allowing proper alignment of the mouthpiece.
There are a couple things to know about setting up the terminator that always need to be said to a newer user: Capture the positive wire with the O-rings, not the steel nut and getting the negative connection without using the lock ring takes some practice. I use AWG30 nickle for my non-resistive legs and simply coil the negative leg until it fills up that channel of the ceramic. When the whole assembly is installed in the base. I then use a very small screw driver to bunch the coiled negative leg to ensure that it has total contact with the steel body of the atomizer. This is probably all easier with a Terminator V2 rebuildable assembly, but as I mentioned I don't have one and have no will to get one. The Terminator V1's work out really well for me.
In my opinion the Hercules dual-coil/dual-channel bit is a tad over rated and I find the airflow to be too restricted. Indeed it's able to wick better than a stock Terminator V1, but I have modded my ceramics according to the wise words of @dwcraig1 and find the resulting wicking to be better than what I'm experiencing on the Hercules. Specifically, I use a dremel tool to grind out the side channels of the Terminator ceramics. I also wick according to the Mr. Krinkle method. I've followed many trends while vaping, but for me not everything was a good idea. Sub-ohm vaping, and dual coils in general haven't gotten me to a more pleasurable experience. For a few fruity flavors a dual coil seems better, but this can still be achieved with a single channel using the Highlander method.
I'm locked in a routine now using AWG32 Kanthal single micro coil at 1.6Ohms and 4 strands of cotton yarn. In my experience, doing everything I could to reduce volt drop on the mech (ie~ brass shim, custom center post, and no battery spring) did more for the vape than getting all crazy with low ohm's.
Cloud chasing was fun for tinkering in the past, but with my simple setup I still have to put the mod down to keep from getting nic'd out at 6mg, and have to open a window in my large living room when the wife & are enjoying a movie else the TV becomes hard to see. Flavor is as strong as it will ever be, and my analog smoking classmates still open eyes wide and say "holy s(you know what)" when we're enjoying our individual stogies in the school parking lot.
Hope this helps, and don't give up so long as you're having fun.
Last edited:
Now if I can only convince some of the un-happy Fogger owners to do the simple enough mod to make their Fogger out perform a stock Kayfun.
I posted how it's now up to them.
I posted how it's now up to them.
Speaking about voltage drop, my biggest drops are the threads between the tubes, I scrub them with tooth paste and get good results,one of the few (good) things that I learned off Bish
(this is after doing all the other stuff)
(this is after doing all the other stuff)
Last edited:
As a loyal follower of your advice DW, I was looking into other areas you posted and saw the resistance to your work on The Fogger. I can't explain most of human behavior, and it's only getting worse. The saying, "you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make 'em drink," definitely applies. I prefer the more contemporary version, however: don't always believe what you think!
Thanks for being such a solid voice always spoken from your own experimentation. I happily dremeled some more ceramics today and had you in mind all along. I didn't expect that it would improve the Terminator Dripping atty also.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
