people have a tendancy to trust..... unfortunately the trust was the original issues I suppose 
Mod getting extremely hot after my son's friend "fixed" it, when it had been working perfectly
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I have a Caravella Mod and a Dark Horse rda. I had 2 coils in it and it was working perfectly. My son's friend decided it would be smart to take the coils out and make them tighter although they were plenty tight before. While doing this he unscrewed the Mod to take the battery out and somehow accidently disassembled the bottom and ended up with the firing button, screw, spring and everything flying everywhere. Anyway, he put it back together and now when you use it the mod gets hot immediately. Not just the firing button, the whole thing gets too hot to hold after you use it 3 times. The battery is really hot too. I was worried because it got so hot so I unscrewed the bottom and put in my IMR battery instead because I've been told they are safer. As soon as I screwed the bottom back on, the mod started firing so I immediately unscrewed the bottom and took if off but it still kept firing until I dumped the battery out. I am now afraid to even try to figure out what he did wrong . Does any one have any idea what's wrong with It? Any help will be greatly appreciated because I loved that mod until he got a hold of it. Thank you
Like many mechs the Cara is a 99% ground device. Meaning only the battery top and positive pin are positive. For the body to be heating up the circuit is being closed somewhere @ the battery top essentially turning the entire body into a giant coil. Either the positive pin insulator is compromised, the atomizer's insulator is being compromised, the battery is not fitting correctly, or there's something foreign in there with it closing the circuit. Remove the top cap and set it against the battery's + so you can see if only the positive pin is touching only the positive terminal. If the battery + or the pin touches anything metal but each other that's your short. Reassemble it without the dark horse and see if the body generates any heat with and without the switch engaged. If you get nothing, as you should, his "coil tightening" borked your RDA. Too many subohmers tighten the hell out of everything trying to reduce voltage drop but don't have the common sense to know when to stop. Try a different RDA. He may have reassembled the cara perfectly and you're looking in the wrong place. The battery's heat is likely caused by the extreme load it's being asked to push.
After this, the fact that it auto fired with the switch missing tells me that your IMR battery wrap is compromised and the ground is live via the tube sides. Inspect then repair/replace the battery. You should really only use IMR batteries in a mech as they aren't prone to thermal runaway and have safety features to ensure the battery vents meaning pfft not boom. Problem with the caravela is they vent the switch (bottom) but most batteries are designed to vent at the top. If the battery swells and seals the top portion off you can still get a boom, although it's not likely as these vents should open before the battery swells. A non-imr can go into thermal runaway with everything working perfectly just from heavy usage. Think laptops and phones that spontaneously ignite.
Good luck, be careful, and keep a bucket of water near you that the battery can be dropped into if it goes into runaway. This will absorb the heat and quickly discharge the battery defusing the situation.
Actually not true, imr has become a blanket marketing term, the only true imr I know of is AW.
Many of the new hybrids are ICR or NCR. so only the op knows what they meant until further clarified.
And I still say the button is assembled wrong
Thank you!! I didn't just start vaping I just never had someone who is new take my mod apart and reassemble it after having pieces fall all over the room before.
1. Measure the resistance of the dripper. Make certain it's working. Let us know the resistance.
2. ALWAYS use an imr battery in a mech. What brand is the battery? What are its specs?
3. MAKE CERTAIN that the battery can safely fire your coils. If the resistance of the coils is too low for that battery, recoil!
4. If the mod is firing continuously, it could be that the wrapper of the battery is torn. Take a good look at it. Make sure it's intact. Even a tear that exposes a bare millimeter of metal could cause serious problems.
5. Take the mod apart, completely. Find instructions online on putting it back together. Caravela is a pretty popular mod, so there should be plenty of info online.
2. ALWAYS use an imr battery in a mech. What brand is the battery? What are its specs?
3. MAKE CERTAIN that the battery can safely fire your coils. If the resistance of the coils is too low for that battery, recoil!
4. If the mod is firing continuously, it could be that the wrapper of the battery is torn. Take a good look at it. Make sure it's intact. Even a tear that exposes a bare millimeter of metal could cause serious problems.
5. Take the mod apart, completely. Find instructions online on putting it back together. Caravela is a pretty popular mod, so there should be plenty of info online.
I think you need 5 posts before being able to post pictures; or you can post pics to imgur and let us know the location here.
You all missed THE most important safety step that needs to be taken here
Explain to the son's friend that touching your gear again will result in drastic consequences. I always hate it when someone thinks they have a right to start messing with my stuff
Explain to the son's friend that touching your gear again will result in drastic consequences. I always hate it when someone thinks they have a right to start messing with my stuff
Respectfully, actually not proving your point.
ICR are not hybrid and should be avoided in vaping use due to being a more volatile chemistry.
ICR
I = Lithium ion
C = cobalt oxide cathode
R= round
IMR
I = lithium ion
M= manganese oxide cathode
R= round
Hybrid INR
I= lithium ion
N= nickel / manganese oxide cathode
R= round
Hybrid NCR
One manufacturer leaves out the " I " in the 'name' nickel and cobalt are blended to make the cathode resulting in a more stable than 'single' chemistry cobalt oxide battery. Also added is a heat resistant layer of insulated metal oxide film between the electrodes, which helps prevent overheating even in the case of an internal short-circuit.
N= nickel
C= cobalt
R= round
True enough many hybrid batteries are called IMR, but, IMR or hybrid, not ICR.
Well I did mean inr so I admit my bad and no problem with being corrected
But yes referring to all high drain li batteries as imr does in fact prove my point. Your breakdown reenforced it further.
It is a marketing bullet point that needs to stop when discussing batteries, we go through great lengths dissecting ratings and claims in the name of accuracy and it is not good practice to misrepresent chemistries which lead to false beliefs on battery safety. Even though our batteries today are safer then past versions.
Side note
There are several theories as to where imr came from.
It is thought by some it is in fact originally a lower case L mistaken for an i
But yes referring to all high drain li batteries as imr does in fact prove my point. Your breakdown reenforced it further.
It is a marketing bullet point that needs to stop when discussing batteries, we go through great lengths dissecting ratings and claims in the name of accuracy and it is not good practice to misrepresent chemistries which lead to false beliefs on battery safety. Even though our batteries today are safer then past versions.
Side note
There are several theories as to where imr came from.
It is thought by some it is in fact originally a lower case L mistaken for an i
I disassembled it all and reassembled it and made new coils and it's working great now. I just wanted to make sure if it was okay to try to use it again if I did that. I do know basic mod safety. I had just never dealt with a short before so I didn't know what to do once one happened. As to the IMR battery part, he had put his battery in because he said it would hit harder. I didn't know anything about his battery so I took it out and tried mine since I know it is an IMR so is what you are supposed to use.
Many thanks to everyone and a special THANK YOU to JUGGLER86 for his nice comments and to Cloudmann for his advice
And I will Definitely take your advice STRINGS!!!
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1: "It's working great now":
Glad to hear it.
I feel a 50% sense of relief, a 25% sense of concern, and a 25% sense of uncertainty.
2: "I do know basic mod safety":
What you have not said so far speaks more loudly than those 6 words:
- you have not mentioned what ohms coil you are using
- you have not mentioned anything about any ohmmeter or multimeter
3: "I didn't know what to do once one happened"
When a short happens and it's not so bad as in this case, you take out your battery, and use a multimeter to check for what's wrong.
You also check for a short on the atty.
Check for signs of damage on your battery.
If the battery is damaged you'd probably be best to toss it;
If you found the battery got uncomfortably hot but otherwise seems ok, you might just mark the battery with a marker so you could keep track of it as a suspect battery.
How carefull you have to be is also affected by what coil ohms you tend to use; people who vape below 0.5 ohms have more to be carefull about than people who vape 1 ohm and up.
Any subohmers out there want to add to that about what to do when a short happens? because I don't subohm, and the closest I've been to a short has been with mods accidentaly left on for a couple hours with 1+ohm coils and that wasn't even with a battery; the one case involving a battery in a mod left on standing vertically it had a kick in it anyway so I was saved by the 10second cutoff.
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do you have another rda?
please try another to fig out which part has problem
in my opinion
if the button switch is damged, maybe it will cause auto firing,but in won't make the battery too hot.
i think you should check the 510thread connector, check if the isolate part is broken or something
it is danger if you keep using it
please send it to a vape shop to fix it
i am chinese and my english is not very good. hope it help
please try another to fig out which part has problem
in my opinion
if the button switch is damged, maybe it will cause auto firing,but in won't make the battery too hot.
i think you should check the 510thread connector, check if the isolate part is broken or something
it is danger if you keep using it
please send it to a vape shop to fix it
i am chinese and my english is not very good. hope it help
It's actually best to recycle it. Home Depot and other places have a bin where you can safely recycle old batteries (wrap your old battery in plastic wrap or put it in a plastic bag to prevent it from shorting). Tossing it in the trash is reckless and not environmentally friendly.
You know,
I was just searching for something unrelated and came across a battery listing.
Now I don't like second guessing things I say usually when I feel I am correct.
And I still don't mind being corrected. But I knew there was a reason I said ICR.
You should check out the chemistry designation on the insanely popular LG HE series batteries they're ICR.
Thanks again for the lessons though
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Yeah take it to a vape shop and let them check it out if they have knowledge of the mech mod your using better to play it safe until you gain the knowledge you need
Im wondering if he had moved the coils so much that one of them was touching the inside of the top cap.....
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