moddified reo grand with dna20D

[turbocad6]

dude, trust me, I have no desire to create anything to sell, if my pump works as I expect it to I'd be more than happy to share it as an open source project here on ECF just so no one else can steal the idea claiming it as there own, and I'd be more than happy if rob decided to use it in his reo's too, although honestly I do agree with you that the beauty in the reo is it's simplicity, so I wouldn't be surprised if rob is perfectly happy with his current design too.

what I'm looking to build really is no competition to the reo, it's more just a self satisfaction type of thing in that I think what I have in mind will work great and I'd love to prove it to myself by actually building it. if I build it I will be the only one with it and I would still recommend the reo to anyone because not many will want to go out and build there own from scratch, and as I've said several times both here and there, I have no intensions of developing anything for the purpose of selling at this point and I seriously doubt that will ever change. I'll never say never though, I sure wouldn't mind getting rich from something like this, but I already have a day job and really don't see ever pursuing something like this to that extent, I'd be happy to just build it successfully for personal use, and if sharing the idea helps others then that' great too

 

[Matthee]

Ok, Turbocad, sorry if I misunderstood your intentions, but open source (like the Reo voltage drop innovators, and Mad Mundy's Magic) is even better and we get to see the process! So, sorry, no lazing about - start that project so we can see and admire and maybe even inspire a bit.

 

[zhentipede]

deym! i'm speechless for a good five minutes.... they sell the dna circuit board seperately on their own or u had to dismantle a dna mod? not familiar with it as of yet......... i was kinda playing with the thought of using provari chip... now looking at dna wow!

 

[jwat82]

deym! i'm speechless for a good five minutes.... they sell the dna circuit board seperately on their own or u had to dismantle a dna mod? not familiar with it as of yet......... i was kinda playing with the thought of using provari chip... now looking at dna wow!

DNA20 is only sold as a standalone as far as I understand. Any DNA20 modders had to purchase the unit and work around it, evolv does not make any mods.

Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Raycecar]

Please, take my money.

 

[turbocad6]

ha, sorry man I've wasted a lot of money and time trying to satisfy my vape, and even big dollar high end mods just didn't do it for me, I've got german mods, greek mods and Italian mods, mods from all over, some exotic high end stuff that may look cool as hell and cost a lot but nothing I have beats this reo when it comes to the actual vape. this reo is worth more than just money to me at this point, as a PV it's worth more to me right now than all my other high end mods combined


the brass trim is starting to get a nice patina to it, it looks really nice and it's toning down the bling bling flashy gold look to something that just looks so right to me, wouldn't consider trading it for anything or selling it for any reasonable amount of $$$ at this point

 

[azzaman]

I've certainly admire this mod from a distance, would I build one? Nope. Would I buy one? Probably not. My reo will continue to work in an abusive environment past the time when australia closes the gates on vaping or a mutant rabies strain destroys civilisation.

However, it's one seriously juiced up reo that is great to admire!

Keep doing what you do, you make awesome pvs for yourself. What a great hobby.

 

[turbocad6]

Ha, that reminds me of an old timer I know that won't get power windows in his car because they might fail some day he also refused to buy a fuel injected car for the same reason, back when that was still an option of course. You know a few tin cans and some string will outlast your cellphone too just messing with you bro, I hear ya, but tbh I'll be kicking the crap out of this one quite a bit and it isn't a weak frail thing, once I waterproof it it's about as durable as any other reo, probably snap the atty off before damaging much else, just like any other reo

 

[azzaman]

Ha, that reminds me of an old timer I know that won't get power windows in his car because they might fail some day he also refused to buy a fuel injected car for the same reason, back when that was still an option of course. You know a few tin cans and some string will outlast your cellphone too just messing with you bro, I hear ya, but tbh I'll be kicking the crap out of this one quite a bit and it isn't a weak frail thing, once I waterproof it it's about as durable as any other reo, probably snap the atty off before damaging much else, just like any other reo

Hahahha. Ok fair call. I'll change my position on this one.

 

[turbocad6]

just a few quick pics of what this thing looks like as it get seasoned and used, I like it, starting to look like a quality tool, I don't mind wear and don't mind the worn look, I guess I even prefer it to the bling bling shiny new look even. this thing has performed flawlessly. biggest thing I like about this over a mech is no contact issues ever, never get to the point where you have to press the button really harder to get a good connection and get to the point that power drops off because your contacts are dirty, it just always fires with full power with just a very gentle touch of the switch each and every time, and still at full power output even when the battery is getting low, it has performed flawless so far

also I never really have to take the battery out, I get a full days use then just plug in the usb at night and ready to go next morning, just have to fill the bottle every other day, really working out well so far, it has been my primary all day vape since I started using it

 

[fatherdano]

i'm curious as to how a RM2 would function on that set up?

 

[greigster]

A stunning bit of kit mate, you are obviously a clued up guy. Thanks for sharing.

 

[custom-classic]

Hey turbocad, I freakin' love that thing!!!
Can you tell me the overall height of your three extension pieces? Also, could you have gotten by with a little less height or is that the bare minimum it needs to be to fit everything?
Again, awesome stuff!!!

 

[turbocad6]

thanks

fatherdano I do have an rm2, works really well and nice flavor with the tiny chamber, and I love the screw on cap vs o ring press fit. my only real problem with it is the brass, mostly the brass firing pin that juice travels through, I can taste the brass in my vape. i replaced the brass firing pin in the reo itself with stainless so it's better but I still taste the brass with the rm2 so I've been playing with other atties. i want to get a new ceramic for the rm2 and replace the firing pin with stainless and see how that turns out but right now I don't like using the rm2 so much, it did look really good with the rm2 though, the little brass bit made it match perfectly. here too you can see how much of the drip well I machined off, pretty much the whole well depth has been removed



the one pictured in my recent set of pics was an a6s I was playing with, all stainless but a bit larger chamber, right now I have an igo s on there, also all stainless and tiny chamber so it vapes like the rm2, but still oring vs threaded cap retention. I also just picked up a cyclone with adjustable air intake which is cool, gotta drill it for bottom feed then try that. ultimately I see myself building my own atty at some point, can't find the ideal atty for me which is a tiny chamber all stainless with a screw on cap, that's what I ultimately want, and if I do build one then I'll eliminate the whole 510 connection completely I think

I haven't measured it precisely but overall I'd say my extension is approx 3/4" but I've removed ~ 1/16th" from the grand base and another ~1/8" shaved off the top at the juice well so this reo overall is about the same height as a VV grand give or take a little, maybe 1/16th" taller overall? don't know how noticeable it is in the pics too but I thinned the reo out a bit and it's a little smaller/thinner in the hand, a little slimmer overall and the rounded edges make it feel even slimmer so it's a really good feel in the hand even with the little extra length. look at my wall thickness at the door edges VS a stock one. could I have possibly made it shorter with this design, not by too much, if I used a different button setup then yeah but I wanted water resistant button setup and that took some space to do, the button setup I used added length but the length is ok to me I think and I like the button setup, it's difficult to adjust by finger press with these buttons because you have to center your finger and press pretty hard to activate them but I wanted it a bit difficult to adjust so it can never adjust accidentally, which here it def can't. I don't adjust up & down so much, almost always stays at 20w unless I'm playing with mundy's wire which needs me to turn it way down

 

[ltrainer]

You have major mojo going on!

 

[turbocad6]

when I first built this reo I anticipated using the cyclone atty with the air flow control head, the afc doesn't fit in the atty well so instead of using an extension I machined the head of the reo almost flush to the connector, with an o ring the atty now sits flush to the deck




so I just finally got my hands on a cyclone atty with afc cap and it fits awesome, lines up perfect, it's a little big, especially compared to all the tiny attys like the rm2 and igo s, but I like the way it fits.

also I hate o-ring retained caps cause there usually easy to move around or pop off if you try to pull the reo from pocket by it's head, but this one has like twice the oring surface and uses fat cushy o rings so it's very very secure when set in place,i can pull it from a pocket and it ain't gonna budge, almost as good as a screw on I guess, gotta live with it a few days and see.

























first thing I noticed was it doesn't vape as well as the tiny chamber atty's like the rm2 and igo s, so then I think the solution for that is dual coils, this atty is made for duals. twice the coils will literally halve the chamber size per coil, so I tried it and bingo, the dual coil setup is now like the rm2 or igo s on steroids, works really really really well, I mean really nice, the adjustable aircap and the adjustable power let me tune it to a really really nice place, the vape is nicer than I've ever had, I wind up liking a tighter draw, never really knew with others because opening up the air is a one way thing, the adjustment for both single and dual coils is really sweet on this thing, I may not have to build my own any time soon from what I'm seeing with this thing so far, I think I like it :}


duals on the cyclone, never tried duals before, never felt the need to. I did use dual coil atty's though back in my disposable atty days this thing rocks, takes a few seconds to heat up but then bam, awesome full flavor and warm thick vapor, really really nice

 

[greigster]

The duel coil looks fab, can you give advise me of the figures for those coils please. Like you, I have never built a duel coil but having the bottom fed Cyclone with the AFC, I would like to give it a try.

Keep the info and pics coming, thoroughly enjoying this thread.

Cheers

 

[turbocad6]

just zoomed in and counted, that one is 17 wraps each coil, 28ga kanthal wrapped on a .055" jig so slightly less than 1/16th, one coil came in at ~1.8ohm, then both paired together came in at .9ohm. I want to try a few less wraps to get it down to ~.7 total, the dna20 gets a little iffy once the coil drops to .6ohm and won't fire at all below that, but .7 and up it's rock solid. on a mech you could go .6 or .5 really, so maybe 12-13 wraps each if done to these specs? could also go to 1/16th for slightly higher resistance per wrap too, best thing is to play and see what you like really but as I said in your thread, coil to air inlet alignment is critical here, you want to see this when checking coil alignment, and only adjust up or down slightly from this, if the coil is too low you'll get not as good results and flavor, and throat hit will be gone completely

 

[greigster]

Thanks Turbo, will deffo give this a try.

 

[turbocad6]

ok a little update here, I've been using this thing as it is for close to a month now and vape has always been spot on, consistent and never a misfire or weak hit, it just works and works every time..... BUT, and heres the big BUT

I never really got around to sealing up the bottom dna chamber. reason is that once it's all sealed up it will become much harder to take it apart and alter stuff. I have a few ideas of things I may like to add, one being a backlit juice chamber so I can see my juice level even in the dark, anyway, even though it's not completely sealed I did feel that it was somewhat sealed and i've been using it even in the shower and i've washed it a few times avoiding complete submersion and up until now it's been fine. well a few days ago, all of a sudden I noticed that my display was kind of pulsing bright an dim and then eventually the display went bonkers and was really getting weird bugging out and then it eventually went out and I had no display... unfortunately I happen to know all to well what this is an indication of, so I took the base apart and sure enough, juice... it seems a small amount of juice migrated it's way down the atty wire and wicked it's way into the base and the board had some trace amounts of juice on it, that's about all it takes for the dna screen to start bugging out. from what I've heard the boggerbox dna winded up having this same problem with many of them too and the boggerbox dude blamed the customer for this, who knows, that may be some part of the reason why he pretty much disappeared from the forums at this point

so what I did was rinse the whole base out well with warm water, washed and rinsed the whole board, screen and all, washed it all down good to dilute and wash away the acids from the juice and then tried my best to dry it by baking it for 20 minutes at ~110* F, put it all back together and it was pretty dry at that point but still no display. now the dna still works fine without the display, still adjusts up & down, still fires and charges and everything, just no display, so I let it dry for another day or so as I used it and then just gave it a shot again, pulled the battery and reinserted it and bam, the display came back on and is again rock solid whole day today with no signs of any bugging out or issues at all.

my whole point of this post is, anyone playing with a dna20 in there reo, you simply must seal this sucker up watertight or it's only a matter of time before you will start to experience display issues. my board wasn't really wet, just signs of moisture from the juice, almost like just sweating a bit, but this is enough to cause errors with the display driver. the juice on the board, even tiny amounts, are enough to cause resistance at some of the smd components legs and cause the display chip to get erratic and eventually just kill the display ability. the good thing is it's pretty resilient in that even if it does develop an issue like this, with a fresh water rinse and a good drying it can bounce back without sustaining any permanent damage, at least this time so far it seems even on my last one that I really juiced up multiple times it would usually bounce back after a good cleaning and drying time, I did that one way too many times though and eventually I physically damaged the screen but up until then it seems that moisture while would affect the display, it would not do permanent damage up to a point at least

now I guess I'm going to seal this thing up so I don't kill it again, wouldn't be the end of the world if I did have to replace the dna, a waste of $50 but at this point it seems to be fine so I'll seal it up and then torture test it some more, i'd love to get it to the point that it is really waterproof enough to fully submerge, only one way to find out if that's gonna happen or not

here is a shot of how wet it was when I opened it up, don't even know if you can see any moisture in this shot, wasn't a whole lot, but enough I guess





and when it gets moist the display logic will start bugging out, not just the illumination but the logic of the display itself, from garbled erratic display to one point where all it would display was evol dna continuously




right now it's completely dry and working perfectly again. from my experiences so far I will say that the dna is sensitive but somewhat resilient too, as long as you don't actually break the display then it seems that it has a good chance of being recovered from juice damage, completely washing it with clean mineral free water and a good drying restored it but I would still say it's best to avoid any moisture here in the first place