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Mods for the newbs.

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Sigmazxcs

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Hey guys,
I'm diving head first into vaping and I intend to start off with a mod (doesn't like the idea of VV/VW)

I'm currently eyeing at a few set ups, Mods: EHPro Nzonic clone, Magneto V2, Two tone Poladic, two tone Nemesis
rba: Z-Atty U clone (this one is identical to the original), Kraken Clone.

what do you guys think? Which should I get to pair with? I'm very keen on the Nzonic and Z-atty set up. Seems that both parts got pretty good reviews and they look pretty good together.

Any inputs for a new guy? :)
 

Crixus

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Hey guys,
I'm diving head first into vaping and I intend to start off with a mod (doesn't like the idea of VV/VW)

I'm currently eyeing at a few set ups, Mods: EHPro Nzonic clone, Magneto V2, Two tone Poladic, two tone Nemesis
RBA: Z-Atty U clone (this one is identical to the original), Kraken Clone.

what do you guys think? Which should I get to pair with? I'm very keen on the Nzonic and Z-atty set up. Seems that both parts got pretty good reviews and they look pretty good together.

Any inputs for a new guy? :)


Many new vapers tend to stick with vv/vw mods and clearos/cartos/atomizers.

Here's a list of reasons why (vets welcome to input any missed out)

-Easier to find your sweetspot.You're able to find out which voltage and what resistance you'll prefer.Some like a warmer vape, some not.

-Short fuse protection.if you're jumping into RBA/RDAs you'd best have a little experience first with a vv/vw mod.Mech mods are unregulated and very dangerous if you do not know how to rebuild your RBA/RDA properly.Lots of research required.A short can potentially cause your battery to explode.

-Cheaper (relatively). Many VV/VW mods now are built quite sturdily.For example the SVD.Solid stainless steel.Comes along with a telescopic tube to turn it into a baton to bludgeon people with.

-VV/VW mods also can use RBA/RDAs if you so wish to.

A true mechanical mod (also called unregulated) is simply a battery holder with a fire switch and a connector pin for the juice delivery device. Basic. Simple. No wires to fry. No microprocessor to eventually die. Something so basic though has minimal safety features; only a collapsable hot spring and vent holes, which only come into play after a battery decides to go haywire during a hard short. You need to use a Vape Safe mod fuse for safety protection, or at the very least use high quality batteries, either protected or safe chemistry IMR's. Vaping experience will drop as the battery voltage falls from 4.1 volts to 3.4 volts.

An electronic mod (also called regulated) has a microprocessor which regulates the voltage (or wattage) output continuously with the aid of a boost circuit or PWM (pulse width modulation). One can regulate the output lower or higher than what a mechanical mod outputs, generally 3.0 volts to 6 volts. Not all juices taste best at around 3.7 volts, so variable voltage gives you the option to find the voltage "sweet spot" for each flavor of juice that you have.

An electronic mod also can detect a problem with the atomizer or the battery, at which point it will give you an error message on the LED display, and refuse to fire to protect you and itself from damage. Many RBA's users who use ULR (ultra low resistance) use mech mods to intentionally bypass the protections that an electronic mod was designed for. Electronic mods also usually have built-in ohm meter and battery voltage meters, which can come in quite handy.

Quoted from Baditute (06-22-2013, 05:09 AM)
Original Post : http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/433232-mechanical-vv-vw-mod.html

These are just my input.Some opinions might differ but i'd prefer to graduate in this way to the big boys (VV/VW Mod + Clearos etc to VV/VW mod + RBA and finally Mech Mod + RBA).
 

Sigmazxcs

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Many new vapers tend to stick with vv/vw mods and clearos/cartos/atomizers.

Here's a list of reasons why (vets welcome to input any missed out)

-Easier to find your sweetspot.You're able to find out which voltage and what resistance you'll prefer.Some like a warmer vape, some not.

-Short fuse protection.if you're jumping into RBA/RDAs you'd best have a little experience first with a vv/vw mod.Mech mods are unregulated and very dangerous if you do not know how to rebuild your RBA/RDA properly.Lots of research required.A short can potentially cause your battery to explode.

-Cheaper (relatively). Many VV/VW mods now are built quite sturdily.For example the SVD.Solid stainless steel.Comes along with a telescopic tube to turn it into a baton to bludgeon people with.

-VV/VW mods also can use RBA/RDAs if you so wish to.



Quoted from Baditute (06-22-2013, 05:09 AM)
Original Post : http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/433232-mechanical-vv-vw-mod.html

These are just my input.Some opinions might differ but i'd prefer to graduate in this way to the big boys (VV/VW Mod + Clearos etc to VV/VW mod + RBA and finally Mech Mod + RBA).

Wow, that's quite a lot of tips! I'll most likely get a cheapo vape to start (APV).
But I don't have a thing with skinny APV, I like the thickness that mech mods can offer.

I agree with you on the VV/VW sweet spot since I know nuts about my tastes for now. But safety wise I'm not too concern. I have access to a supply of very good AW IMR batteries. But of course, as a new user, I'll require the help of more experienced bros like you to help me out.

Based on my list, which do you think I should start with? That's after the APV of course.
 

BardicDruid

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You would be much better off and better protected from battery catastrophes by starting off with something like this: DV eGo-T Starter Kit - Stainless - 900mah until you find the liquids you like and learn the ins and outs of ecigs. I say this based on the simple fact that mods are Advanced User Devices.
 

Crixus

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Wow, that's quite a lot of tips! I'll most likely get a cheapo vape to start (APV).
But I don't have a thing with skinny APV, I like the thickness that mech mods can offer.

I agree with you on the VV/VW sweet spot since I know nuts about my tastes for now. But safety wise I'm not too concern. I have access to a supply of very good AW IMR batteries. But of course, as a new user, I'll require the help of more experienced bros like you to help me out.

Based on my list, which do you think I should start with? That's after the APV of course.

I'll have to defer giving you advice on this bro and let the vets tell you more about mech mods. Many of them tend to be walking encyclopaedias when it comes to mech mods and such.
 

Sigmazxcs

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I'll have to defer giving you advice on this bro and let the vets tell you more about mech mods. Many of them tend to be walking encyclopaedias when it comes to mech mods and such.

Quite frankly, this is what I wish I would hear!

But like what bardicdruid said, I might be safer with APVs. My only grudge is that vapes are so hard to acquire, I'd want to start of with something I won't get tired of in 3 months. A mech seems like the way to go. As an engineer, I hate things breaking down. Especially electronics since I almost flunked my electronics module. ._.
 

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It's all depends on what type of person you are. If you like to do some research and watch youtube tutorials i suggest you go for mech mod, kraken clone and trident clone. But if you like out of the box ready then get kanger pro tank or other carto.

I have to tell you setting up coils are no rocket science. It's really easy. I recommend rda because there is so many possibilities of setup.
 

Telly R

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I would recommend the Magneto V2 paired with an RSST (Genesis Atty) and IGO-W (RDA). Basic, but reliable set ups for beginning vapers... once you get the hang of dealing with them, especially building multiple coils for both the genny and drippers; then you should jump into the high end ones (sometimes a bit more complicated). Just my :2c:
 

Sigmazxcs

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Thanks for the input hsan7!

I like the idea of mech because there's hardly a chance for it to spoil unless it's not properly handled. And most likely i can fabricate a replacement part since mostly it's mechanical.

I like RBAs like the Z-atty. it looks really nice with the glass tank and a chamfered cap. I fell for it when I saw the zenesis 2. I also like the kraken, but I don't know which is better or which look do I prefer. I'm not a fan of the kraken emblem that covers part of the tank though...

I'm looking for a build that is decent with a reasonable price (clones). I also like to have enough juice to vape on without always refilling. But I hate to have spills which I hear so often about from RBAs... How do you guys carry your RBA when you're out and about?
 

Sigmazxcs

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I would recommend the Magneto V2 paired with an RSST (Genesis Atty) and IGO-W (RDA). Basic, but reliable set ups for beginning vapers... once you get the hang of dealing with them, especially building multiple coils for both the genny and drippers; then you should jump into the high end ones (sometimes a bit more complicated). Just my :2c:

Thanks for chiming in man.
Don't mind me asking; why the magneto and not a znonic clone? The Znonic was well recommended by several people, but it's a little pricey at USD$59.

And I'm still unclear on the advantages of a dripper and a genny. How do you use them and how do you bring them along when you travel?
 

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Why i recommend kraken is because it has AFC (air flow control) which means you can adjust how much air flow without the need of drilling. That way, say if you want dual coil sub ohm then u can have a good opened air flow or single you can adjust to lesser air flow.

All genesis will leak if placed sideway, so you have no choice to transport it while standing upwards to avoid spilling.


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Sigmazxcs

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You seem to have an experience contrary to what he said. Care to share? :)

I have heard plenty about leaky genny. Any way to deal with that?
How do you carry your genny when you're out and about? I'd hate to leak all over.

And I'm quite curious about RDAs. How do they function? And do they have a leaky problem?
 

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RDA don't leak because you only drip enough to get soaked by cotton or silica or which ever wicking material you use. Unless you over drip which might leak a little but nothing major like genesis atty. If you get genesis atty like RSST which comes with a stopper or fill hole plug, then this leaking problem will be minimized.

The real advantage of mech is when you do sub-ohm, which normal vv/vw has limitation of 1.3ohm unless you go for expensive DNA20 mods.
 

Sigmazxcs

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Hmm. Seems like RBAs are generally messy if left sideways... I like how RBAs look and obviously for their carrying capacity. But I hate to clean up every 5mins...

IIRC, even a fill stop like on the RSST doesn't stop the issue, like you said, only minimized. I recall the wick will still leak right? No two ways around that? I was still thinking of fabricating a fill stop for a z-atty when I get one...

Do you guys prefer RDA?
 

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Not till that bad, you dont have to clean up every 5mins as long you keep your mod standing when not in use. My issue was to carry it around to work and back home but i found solution for that by putting it in a small plastic bag and clip it to my bag divider which guarantees it to stand straight at all times.

The reason why my RSST still leaks a little even with stopper is because i use SS rope which wicks really well, but this is not the case using SS mesh.

I do prefer RDA because of limitless possibilities of setup.
 

Sigmazxcs

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I recommend trident clone, it also has AFC and in general its almost the same as original version.

Hmm. I'm also looking at that from fast tech. But I think likely I'll start with a IGO-W to test the water first before I hop in on the trident. Don't know if I like a RDA yet. :/
Have you ordered anything from fast tech before?
 
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